Chris,
Thanks a lot for the "book". It's exactly what I need. I'm fighting a
horrendous outbreak, which looks like it might be because of daily brine
shrimp feeding. I thought I was doing the fish a favor. I'll get a
phosphate sponge, carbon, and quit the brine shrimp. I already am doing
frequent water changes of 20% / week (lately). I've also "blown" alot off
and physically removed it so it won't break down in the tank. I think I
have plenty of fish, and I had HOPED not too much excess nutrients (40
gallon sump and 30 gallon refugium), protein skimmer (Ron's), 300+ lbs of
LR. Some one mentioned Formula One as a food. I'd using OSI Marine Aquarium
flake food, but just (yesterday) bought some Omega One since the
ingredients looked like more fish products and less grain. Is there
something better?
Thanks alot,
Larry
At 09:47 AM 11/1/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>Chris,
>
>Cyno, along with other nusiance algaes, can come from many things. The first
>thing that should be considered ARE excess nutrients. Nutrients seem to be
>defined generally as nitrates and phosphates, and some times as dissolved
>organic compounds (DOCs) There are many possible sources for nutrients
>including food, water, additives, salt, substrate, rock and just about
>anything else you put in. The goal is to limit those sources by using
>quality stuff, ex: water run through an RO/DI system etc. Yes, type of food
>can make a difference. Many frozen foods are high in phosphates, and that is
>pure fuel for cyno and algae.
>
>It can also be "fed" by trace element additives. Excess nutrients can spark
>the stuff, but they utilize much of the same things as your corals do to
>grow, so elements can help their growth. Also, if you have additives that
>have nutrients, they can really get it going.
>
>Cyno is also usually part of a cycle of a newer aquarium. It can occur
>within a week, and sometimes a month or two after you start up, or even add
>sand or rock. My feeling is that algaes and cynos occur in cycles, and that
>a small patch of it here or there once in a while is nothing to be concerned
>about. However, it should be watched closely and if it begins to spread
>rapidly, then action should be taken.
>
>It can also be allowed to proliferate if there is lack of current in the
>tank.
>
>The goal, is to have a well enough balanced system that you CAN feed 2-3
>times a day. If you have the nutrient export mechanisms in place for your
>system, and your water quality is properly monitored and managed, it is much
>better to feed your animals 2-3 small feedings a day than just one big one.
>The goal is NOT to have excess foods left in the system to breakdown. If you
>dont have a well balanced system, then nutrients will build up quickly and
>give you cyno and algae problems.
>
>Persoanlly, right now I have a small patch of cyno on my sand in an area
>that gets very little circulation. I just added about another inch of sand
>to the front of the tank, and have had this patch on it for about a week. It
>is not bad, and is not growing quickly, so I am watching it. I continue to
>do my water changes, and have cut back trace element additives. I also added
>some carbon which I will run for about 4-5 days, and will add a phosphate
>sponge if the cyno continues to grow or does not subside in the next week or
>two. I dont panic when I see it, but I begin taking steps to erradicate it.
>If I see rapid growth, I will take further steps like cutting back feedings
>(or eminiating them for a week or so), running large amounts of carbon,
>making large frequent water changes and doubling up on my phosphate removal.
>
>Point is, it often is part of the long term cylce of the tank, and if you
>see it, dont panic. Just watch it and make sure you dont let it get out of
>control.
>
>One other thing about this stuff, and sorry eveyone about this book, but
>that is that it has been proven, and I have seen this with my own eyes, in
>my own tank, that if your tank is understocked, cyno (it is thought to be a
>differnt species) can grow and proliferate. I had a 20 gallon micro reef.
>Nice current, light, LR, RO/DI water etc. I had 1 fish in the tank. After a
>while, I began getting cyno. I couldnt understand, I fed my 1 fish a tiny
>bit once a day, and did 50% water changes weekly. I mean, I had this thing
>nutrient free. I battled this cyno for weeks. It spread like wildfire, and
>soon was on my rocks, sand, glass, everywhere. I couldnt understand it.
>Then, one day, I stumbled across an article by J. Sprung suggesting that in
>some tanks, cyno occurs because there are not enough fish in the tank. This
>causes and unbalanced tank, and thus, allows the cyno to take hold. I added
>a few more fish, and I tell you, within 10 days, the stuff was virtually
>gone. Sounds wierd, but it is true. It sort of goes towards Andrews comments
>on sterile tanks. People used to (and still do) think that your tank should
>be free of everything, but if you are fighting a balanced tank, you are
>destined for trouble.
>
>Speaking of that, I had recently removed 4 fish from my 70, and it was after
>that I began having cyno appear. Hmmm, sounds like I need to go buy some
>fish :-)
>
>Shane C.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sisemore, Chris [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 9:01 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: slime algae
> >
> > In several posts lately everyone seems to agree that slime algae (cyano)
> > is caused by excess nutrients. I assume this means nutrients from
> > overfeeding & not additives like trace elements. I have also seen posts
> > that say to feed 2 to 3 times daily. How can people feed this often & not
> > have excess? Does the type of food make a difference?
> >
> > Chris
> >
>________________________________________
>
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