Chemi mats are good. Most phosphate removers work pretty well these days.
Just run one, and then run a new batch immediatly after the first.

FWIW
Shane C.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sisemore, Chris [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 11:12 AM
> To:   '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject:      RE: slime algae(Chris)
> 
> I have used filter pad called "Chemi-mat" that works in 48 hours. It took
> about half the PO4 out of my 150, but watch your skimmer, for some reason
> mine started pulling a lot of liquid while the pad was in.
> 
> Chris 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Larry J. Geguzis [ <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] 
> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 12:04 PM 
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Subject: RE: slime algae(Chris) 
> 
> 
> message received and understood (fg). Thanks. I'll report back. Is there a
> 
> phosphate remover you'd recommend? 
> Larry 
> 
> At 10:21 AM 11/1/01 -0700, you wrote: 
> >Larry, 
> >Cutting the brine, and running a phosphate sponge are important.
> Remember, 
> >phosphate is drawn to your substrate and LR, and actually attaches itself
> to 
> >them. When you do water changes, you DO NOT remove phosphate (well, a
> little 
> >tiny bit that is in your water column). Thus, it is neccesary to run 
> >phophate removers. These actually create a stronger "attraction" for the 
> >phosphate and thus they will leave the substrate and be absorbed by the 
> >phosphate remover. Then you remove the remover, and essentaily remove the
> 
> >phosphate from the system. You may consider running another dose of PR
> right 
> >after the first. Carbon is also not a bad idea. You can double it up, and
> 
> >run it for 4-5 days then pull it and run a new batch again. Also, if you 
> >feed your corals any type of micro foods, stop doing that for a while and
> 
> >cut your fish feedings back to once a day for a while if you are feeding 
> >more right now. 
> > 
> >FWIW 
> >Shane C. 
> > 
> >> -----Original Message----- 
> >> From:        Larry J. Geguzis [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
> >> Sent:        Thursday, November 01, 2001 10:12 AM 
> >> To:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> >> Subject:     RE: slime algae(Chris) 
> >> 
> >> Chris, 
> >> Thanks a lot for the "book". It's exactly what I need. I'm fighting a 
> >> horrendous outbreak, which looks like it might be because of daily
> brine 
> >> shrimp feeding. I thought I was doing the fish a favor. I'll get a 
> >> phosphate sponge, carbon, and quit the brine shrimp. I already am doing
> 
> >> frequent water changes of 20% / week (lately). I've also "blown" alot
> off 
> >> and physically removed it so it won't break down in the tank. I think I
> 
> >> have plenty of fish, and I had HOPED not too much excess nutrients (40 
> >> gallon sump and 30 gallon refugium), protein skimmer (Ron's), 300+ lbs
> of 
> >> LR. Some one mentioned Formula One as a food. I'd using OSI Marine 
> >> Aquarium 
> >> flake food, but just (yesterday) bought some Omega One since the 
> >> ingredients looked like more fish products and less grain. Is there 
> >> something better? 
> >> Thanks alot, 
> >> Larry 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> At 09:47 AM 11/1/2001 -0700, you wrote: 
> >> >Chris, 
> >> > 
> >> >Cyno, along with other nusiance algaes, can come from many things. The
> 
> >> first 
> >> >thing that should be considered ARE excess nutrients. Nutrients seem
> to 
> >> be 
> >> >defined generally as nitrates and phosphates, and some times as
> dissolved 
> >> >organic compounds (DOCs) There are many possible sources for nutrients
> 
> >> >including food, water, additives, salt, substrate, rock and just about
> 
> >> >anything else you put in. The goal is to limit those sources by using 
> >> >quality stuff, ex: water run through an RO/DI system etc. Yes, type of
> 
> >> food 
> >> >can make a difference. Many frozen foods are high in phosphates, and
> that 
> >> is 
> >> >pure fuel for cyno and algae. 
> >> 
> >________________________________________ 
> > 
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