If you wan't to play with water cooling a radio I would recommend a few things.
The bigest problem would be the water to radio interface (water
block). If this was me, I would take a MASTR-II mobile, and remove
the heatsink assembly. Then sand blast the paint off it. And
interface a 1/2" copper water pipe by drilling a 5/8" hole through the
heatsink fins, from left to right so the pipe went through the centers
of all the fins.
If you are a real bad-ass you use a drill bit that was one size too
small and then cool the copper pipe in LN2 and heat the alumium block
and press fit them. But with the precision of standard hand tools I
would use a relaible product to solder the pipe to the aluminum like
bernzomatics aluminum solder, but you will need a ass load of heat.
Stay away from "Solder-It" paste, it sucks.
Use regular copper solder to attach 1/2" brass nipples in the right
angle variety to the pipe.
Once cooled, re-paint the heatsink like nothing happened.
For pumps I recommend anything by Hydor. Paticularly the 900gph L45
or 320 gph L35. they are 120V and I have had zero problems with mine.
Quiet too. Convection systems never work, and you end up boiling your
equipment befor the water actually moves.
For radiators go for a new heater core from your local radiator shop.
Grab the biggest they have and ask nicely for them to change the
inlets to 1/2" or what ever size tubing you want. If you get one big
enough you may not even need to bother with a fan. But a standard car
fan works fine hear if you just went with a straight up radiator.
For tubing go with anything that is Tygon. I have had problems with
the standard "Clear Flex 60" . Thick wall (1/8") resists kinks, but
standard wall is eaisier to work with. Hose clamp everything,
thighten the clamps tell your knucles hurt and then put an extra turn
in there. I have killed a couple of mother boards due to small leaks
by "calling it good".
Fill your system with the 2 dollar a gallon steam distilled water, you
don't want any calcium floating around in there. You shouldn't need
to add antifreze unless your system is going to be out doors.
Antifreze decreases the heat transfer anyways.
Add a stearilizer to the water to keep it from going "stanky". Such
as a capfull of bleach or CLR.
A simple water preasure sensor can be made by attaching a magnet to a
piece of cork and floating it in a cylinder that has the pumps outlet
directly under the cork and pushing it up to a reed switch by the
water preasure.
Also dual pumps could be employed for redundency.
On Apr 11, 2005 4:45 PM, Dave VanHorn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> At 06:31 PM 4/11/2005, Mark Holman wrote:
>
> >I seen in a computer mag called Maximum PC a article on a liquid cooled PC ,
> >I do know your RF Amp on Broadcast Gear has a cooling pump, but I like that
> >idea of a pumpless cooling system, I think if someone wanted to experiment
> >with the same technology as a Solar heating system, maybe some engineering
> >someone could design such a system. just some thoughts there. and be
> >Energy Star compliant ???
>
> One of the nicer points of a water cooled PC system, is that even if
> the pump fails, the water will keep the CPU temperature from rising
> very fast, and allow the overtemp alarm more time between "what's
> going on?" and "fried CPU".
>
> Maybe it's not there yet, but it seems like something to keep an eye on.
>
> They also had small, and large peltier coolers, the larger one being
> about 3" square.
> Those make me nervous though, in that if you get below the dew point,
> then you get condensation, which is bad.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
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