I tweaked the VCO's for 3 volts not knowing any better, I will readjust them tonight.
I built a simple interface for the serial EEPROM out of a few resistors and zener diodes. At the moment it is just hard wired to some vias I saw coming from the programming plug. I will rebuild my interface tonight to have a 8 pin socket and +5 volt regulator so the chips can be programed out side the rig and see whats in the other chip.
Looking at the schematic, I have no idea how they are getting data over to the EEPROM on the signalling board, there apears to be no connections to the programming plug. Also there is an awful lot of fire power on that board just for the CTCSS encode and decode, you would think they would have put a CW IDer in there. Looks like there is room enough left over on the tray for a smaller controller such as the NHRC-Micro and TCX-12.
The company that had it previous didn't take advantage of the sweet mounting method for the duplexer and it was on the top cover with double sided stickey tape. $3 at a hardware store will yield a brass strip and sheet metal screws to take care of the mecahnics, and some double shielded coax and BNC connectors should cure the RF side.
On 12/14/05, Jim B. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
skipp025 wrote:
> The factory repeater board doesn't generate true
> reverse burst. Like other mfgrs did... the tone is
> often shut off before the transmitter drops and the
> detector tries to close the audio of before the tx
> drops.
Hmmm-all the ones we had at the shop I used to work at did true RB. I
could see the phase shift in the lissajous (sp?) on the service
monitor...the only problem I ever ran into was that the time delay they
used was a bit short for some radios. Same problem with the mobiles of
that vintage (early 90's).
Yes, they make GREAT ham repeaters, with only the need to add a simple
ID'er.
All of the external controller mods I did were done at the accessory
jack on the back. And they were always done in such a way that you could
just unplug the cable from the back, hit the button on the front, and
run local. Worst case (with tone panels), I would have to open the top
and plug the CTCSS EEPROM back in. (I would glue a piece of anti-stat
foam on the chassis next to the board and stick the chip there,
programmed up and ready to go.)
--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
- Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web.
- To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
