Those big aluminum electrolytic caps with screw terminals are getting extinct, and if you DO find one, it'll likely be expensive. You can get something quite smaller in size but the same or larger electrical value. Go with that. Stuff some stiff foam rubber or even some wood slats around the bottom so it will fit into the original clamp. That's what a lot of the hi-fi repair guys are doing now. A lot cheaper for something that has much better specs.
The diodes are probably very similar to what an automobile alternator uses. Of course, finding the exact replacements could still be difficult. They're probably (minimally) 50V, 50A, but I'd look for something a bit bigger. The supply is good for 25A at 14V nominal. According to the schematic, the anodes (the ends with the arrows) are connected to the case and ground. Push-in diodes came both ways, mainly because many alternators use three of each inside, and they can only ground the case of three of them. You could also replace the diodes and bracket with a piece of aluminum heatsink material and use stud-mount diodes. Again, observe polarity otherwise you'll have to insulate the cases or the heatsink (probably not a good idea to have that sitting at +15V). Bob M. ====== --- On Thu, 9/18/08, kk2ed <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > From: kk2ed <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor TPN1110A power supply parts ID > To: [email protected] > Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008, 10:10 AM > The diodes CR1 and CR2 are compression-fitted style > rectifier diodes > that are pressed into a rectangle stock of aluminum, and > the aluminum > is then secured to the chassis via two screws. The diodes > have one > solder lug terminal. > > The service manual only lists the Motorola part #; no specs > or > industry-standard part # is given. Same on the caps. Only > spec given > is 27,000 uf @ 20wvdc. > > I did a quick search of Mouser and DigiKey, and was unable > to find > any chassis-mount style caps. Anyone find something > suitable that can > be re-secured to the ps's chassis via new rivets or > screws? I know I > can just solder in any cap that meets electrical specs, but > I would > like the caps to be secure and not have the ps become a > fire hazard > waiting to happen! > > The power supply was still sitting in my truck last night. > When I get > a break today I will take it apart further and see if I can > find a > part # stamped on the diodes and caps that might indicate > what the > real part # is. While I was at the repeater site yesterday > I thought > I saw a 1Nxxxx stamped on the diodes. > > I would have thought that there would have been someone > here on the > list that has repaired one of these supplies before, so > that is why I > asked. > > Eric > KE2D
