I went to the Anderson site and found the installation instructions. They do recommend crimping the connection, but then do go on to discuss soldering. So, I will agree that crimping, with the proper tool, would be the best choice for reliable operation and is what the manufacturer recommends. However, if installation is really that critical, the connector is probably not the right choice for the average person.
I also see that Anderson makes a "retention clip" to secure the mated connectors together. To me this indicates that there have been issues with connectors coming loose. I'm not surprised, but the connector is what it is. Everyone knows that there is no locking mechanism, aside from this accessory clip, so maybe it is the wrong connector for many applications. >From the Power Werx site: "Secure your Powerpole connections in the field, shack or mobile installations. These Retention Clips are easy to use and should always be on hand if the chance of Powerpole separation may exist." To me it seems odd that a connector designed for DC power isn't polarized. Yes, there is a loose standard out there, but the two halves can be configured several ways. Again, I understand that certain uses may dictate different configurations, but it does open the door to some destroyed equipment when someone hastily plugs in someone else's equipment that had the connector backwards. I will probably pick up an Anderson crimper and continue to use the connectors. The ones I purchased came from Power Werx. They claim that they are honest-to-goodness Anderson products, not imitations. Chuck WB2EDV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nate Duehr" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 3:54 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] (anderson power poles revisited) > See if you can find someone with the proper crimp tool and look > carefully at the HEIGHT of the resulting connection. I, like others > here -- but I was trying to stay out of it, since PowerPole > discussions always lead a little bit to the "religious debate" side of > things, vs. the technical -- haven't had ANY problems with PowerPoles, > but I make sure the seller is selling the real-deal by brand name, and > not knock-offs, and I use the big/proper crimp tool to make the > connections. > > When you solder them, the most common failure/problem I've seen is > that the connection stays as "tall" as the wire gauge, and if you can > get a good look at a properly crimped one, they're "shorter". When > the inner connector pieces are too tall, there's no "play" for the > connector to "lock/click" into the internal spring, and there's no way > for the spring to "push" on the connector, holding it together at the > "hump". My opinion, anyway... > > I've used Powerpoles in my VHF+ "rover"/mobile station exclusively, > and I've only ever had ONE disconnect during bouncy dirt roads in a > Jeep. The PowerPole "bar" is mounted horizontally so that the > connectors are ALWAYS hanging sideways, and the wire pulls on them, > and they stay in fine for the weekend of driving... > > PowerPoles fall into the same category as anything RF or DC that > Amphenol makes, I think. Lots of knock-offs, but only with the > original Anderson product, and the correct tools, do they seem to > always work fine for my purposes. > > Ask your vendor if they're using the real-deal, and not a knock-off, > and get a look at a connection made with the big/real crimp tool. > (Not even the little pliers that some vendors sell really do it right.) > > -- > Nate Duehr, WY0X > [email protected]
