This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices. However,
I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the
same of splicing tape, then again of 88). Overlap each successive wrap
about 50%.
Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP. You
want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in
under the overlapping wraps. Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you
how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards.
For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969.
For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4" tapes to
help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to
the smaller connector. Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1" and
larger widths.
Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often
found in 1" and 1-1/2" widths.
If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and
first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy. This is
known as a "courtesy wrap", and anyone who's had to cut open a connector
junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that...
--- Jeff WN3A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian Raker
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
>
> Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal
> outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing
> tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer
> of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer).
> Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping
> of the seal in case you need to do work.
>
> -BR
>
> On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob
> Suter<[email protected]> wrote:
> > 3M Mastic tape?
> >
> > Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you
> stick it to
> > *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not
> reasonably
> > removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape
> between anything
> > you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of
> > electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)...
> >
> > JS
> >
> > Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote:
> >>
> >> Hmmmm. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24
> years I was in,
> >> it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!)
> >>
> >> I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark
> >> Chaser and Pointy Heads!
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> WM4B
> >>
> >> *From:* [email protected]
> >> [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby
> >> *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM
> >> *To:* [email protected]
> >> *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
> >>
> >> On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote:
> >> > Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you
> >> > need something to wrap it with to protect the
> rubber...and there's
> >> > where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were
> >> > self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for
> this reason (and
> >> > it's the reason they are all still available.)
> >>
> >> There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is
> based on silicone
> >> which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or
> anything else
> >> except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when
> you're applying
> >> it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and
> >> cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.)
> >>
> >> The unofficial Air Force term for it is "Queer Tape,"
> Times Microwave
> >> sells it in their kits for connector sealing.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Kris Kirby, KE4AHR
> >> Disinformation Analyst
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
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