Another trick I learned is to make 2 wraps with the adhesive in (on the work) 
then fold it over and make your wraps with the adhesive out as your first layer 
before putting the mastic/butyl tape down. This will keep the adhesive from 
getting all over the work, especially when wrapping coax connectors. Another 
suggestion is a squirt of silicone lube to keep the adhesive from sticking 
where you don't want it. 

I love the extra-wide 33+ tape. I keep a roll hidden in my toolbox for those 
7/8" to N transitions...

I also have a couple of cans of ScotchKote hidden from the CARB guys, who would 
confiscate it if they had a chance. That stuff is so full of VOCs it's illegal, 
but it's the absolute best thing as that last step in waterproofing a 
connection that's going to be hundreds of feet up on a tower. 

 -- 
John "Smokey Behr" Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE
IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852
List Owner x10, Moderator x9 CalEMA 51-507
http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com
http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr



----- Original Message ----
> From: Jeff DePolo <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 12:52:39 PM
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
> 
> 
> This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices.  However,
> I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the
> same of splicing tape, then again of 88).  Overlap each successive wrap
> about 50%.  
> 
> Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP.  You
> want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in
> under the overlapping wraps.  Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you
> how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards.
> 
> For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969.  
> 
> For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4" tapes to
> help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to
> the smaller connector.  Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1" and
> larger widths.
> 
> Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often
> found in 1" and 1-1/2" widths.
> 
> If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and
> first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy.  This is
> known as a "courtesy wrap", and anyone who's had to cut open a connector
> junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that...
> 
>                 --- Jeff WN3A
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email protected] 
> > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian Raker
> > Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
> > 
> > Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal
> > outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing
> > tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer
> > of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer).
> > Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping
> > of the seal in case you need to do work.
> > 
> > -BR
> > 
> > On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob 
> > Suterwrote:
> > > 3M Mastic tape?
> > >
> > > Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you 
> > stick it to
> > > *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not 
> > reasonably
> > > removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape 
> > between anything
> > > you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of
> > > electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)...
> > >
> > > JS
> > >
> > > Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Hmmmm. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 
> > years I was in,
> > >> it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!)
> > >>
> > >> I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark
> > >> Chaser and Pointy Heads!
> > >>
> > >> 73,
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >>
> > >> WM4B
> > >>
> > >> *From:* [email protected]
> > >> [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby
> > >> *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM
> > >> *To:* [email protected]
> > >> *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
> > >>
> > >> On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote:
> > >> > Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you
> > >> > need something to wrap it with to protect the 
> > rubber...and there's
> > >> > where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were
> > >> > self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for 
> > this reason (and
> > >> > it's the reason they are all still available.)
> > >>
> > >> There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is 
> > based on silicone
> > >> which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or 
> > anything else
> > >> except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when 
> > you're applying
> > >> it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and
> > >> cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.)
> > >>
> > >> The unofficial Air Force term for it is "Queer Tape," 
> > Times Microwave
> > >> sells it in their kits for connector sealing.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Kris Kirby, KE4AHR
> > >> Disinformation Analyst
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.78/2347 - Release 
> > Date: 09/10/09 05:50:00
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 

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