I generally find the Kadee #5 best for most uses.  I started buying the 
Bortz converted versions back in High School.  I welcomed the 802's only 
for use in passenger cars and some locomotives--the longer the car the 
more I need them.  The jury is still out on the SHS version of the 802. 
 I do appreciate the closer coupling and their eliminating the accordion 
slack effect, but a little more run time will determine the rest.   I 
had hoped that their coupler (SHS) would have been designed between the 
two sizes, therefore assuring slightly more 'gathering' ability with the 
much better size of the #5.  
Just my opinion.
Bob Werre

Lance McCold wrote:

>The messages below regarding couplers were posted ted on the S-trains list, 
>but they are perhaps of more interest to the S-scale list. 
>
>Like Tom, I find the #5 couplers a better choice than #802s. 
>
>I would like to hear some perspectives from this group.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Lance McCold
>Knoxville, Tennessee
>
>  
>
>>Message: 5         
>>  Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 10:50:42 -0500
>>  From: "Thomas Stoltz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Subject: Couplers
>>
>>
>>Bill Wrote:
>>
>>Michael Greene and I have been doing some research on installing "scale" 
>>Kadee-style couplers on some locomotives and rolling stock. It occurred to 
>>us that a page or pages dedicated to the issues involved and with some 
>>specifics that we learned on specific installations might be generally 
>>useful. So we have documented our experience so far on showcaseline.com. 
>>This is meant to be a work in progress with plenty of room for ideas and 
>>experiences from other modelers. Check it out and let us know what you think!
>>
>>http://www.showcaseline.com/indexCouplers.html
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Bill and Michael
>>
>>Bill, the information looks interesting, however I could not disagree more 
>>with your statements about the Kadee #5's.  I know of more scale people who 
>>have dropped the 802 for in favor if the #5 than the other way around.  This 
>>seems to be a hot button issue for many people, my opinion is driven by price 
>>and operation.  I am enclosing a copy of a letter I wrote to Rusty 
>>Wstermeier, of S Gaugian fame, in Feb of 2002.
>>
>>
>>Rusty,
>>
>>I'm hi-rail, run on AM .148" track and switches, using a variety of equipment 
>>from ACG AF, AM & SHS.
>>
>>I am new to the world of Kadee, did a lot of research, read through the 
>>archives on the S scale mailing list, wrote letters, talked to Kadee 
>>themselves.
>>
>>What I got was as varied as the people I asked.  But after doing some 
>>experiments, trail by error this is what I got:
>>
>>Scale size:  the #5 series is a lot closer to scale then the 802's.  #5's are 
>>only off in the vertical direction in S scale, 10" instead of 11".  What is 
>>that?  1/64"!!  From two feet away you can't tell the difference.  The 802 by 
>>contrast is not on in any dimension, is really a 3/4 size coupler for 0n3, 
>>not S.
>>
>>Operation:  I slap #5's right onto SHS & AM freight cars, no shims, no 
>>alterations-- leave the trip wire alone.  The mounting hole on SHS cars is in 
>>the right place, I just ream it out to take a 2-56 screw which is the center 
>>hole of the #5 draft gear box.  The #321 between the track uncoupling magnet 
>>must be shimmed up .03" to work.  However, I have had no luck with the 
>>delayed action feature of the #5 with the 321.
>>So, I tried a #308 under the track magnet and it works perfectly.  308's are 
>>3/16" thick which is the same as the cork roadbed I use.
>>I have installed #5's or some other member of their family on AM Budd cars, 
>>85' streamliners, their heavyweights and miscellaneous freight cars, also the 
>>AM GG1.  I think freight cars is all I've tried from SHS.  The most fun I've 
>>had is installing Kadees on an AF K5, front and back.  I drilled out a repo 
>>pilot and used a #49 long shank overset.  This engine is really cool.
>>I put them to the "pulling test" by putting #5's on one end each of SHS 40' 
>>stockcars coupling them between an AM K4 and 4 Budd cars ( these things weigh 
>>over a pound each and have a lot of drag because to their pickup shoes), 5 
>>85' streamliners, 4 AM heavyweights, seems like I had something else in there 
>>but I don't remember now.  I ran this consist full speed, flipped the DPDT 
>>switch (I run DC) to reverse, back and forth many times and could not get the 
>>#5's to break or uncouple.  The #5's & #40's are metal while the #20's & 
>>#30's are plastic.  I have yet to break a #5 no matter how abusive I am to 
>>them.
>>
>>Close coupling:  I checked in Model Railroader and a #5 put right to the hole 
>>provided on SHS & AM cars is dead on.  #5's are the same spacing as the AM 
>>dummy coupler on the streamliners and I used a long shank on the Budd cars, 
>>again, the same as the close coupling they came with.  #5's are right for the 
>>GG1 also.  I have seen 802's on the AM streamliners and they coupled so far 
>>apart it looked worse then a link to knuckle conversion on an AF passenger 
>>cars.
>>
>>Cost:  Need I say  anything?  $5.75 a pack for 802's--2 pair. #5's are $1.70 
>>for the same thing.  The #49's & #46's are $2.25 for 2 pair.  This is from 
>>Trainworld, Jan 15, 2002.
>>
>>I don't know much about the scale world, I don't know much about Kadees.  I 
>>live out in the woods of Maine, so I don't get to see many people in S, let 
>>alone people using Kadees.  This has been my experience, I only started 
>>Kadees in Jan.  Still, at this point, I cannot figure how the 802 myth got 
>>started.
>>They are even more complex to put together then the #5 ( I did buy a pack 
>>just to see them, I opened the pack looked at the 802's and closed the pack 
>>back up, no way ).
>>
>>Now a question for you: Kadee sent me a length of their trip wire so I could 
>>try to replace the original with a longer.  No problem getting them a part, 
>>but the knuckle does not want to grip the replacement wire.  I can see that 
>>if I had some funny pliers, I could pinch the split ring of the knuckle.  But 
>>I don't.  This was before I discovered the 308 magnet and I was thinking, oh 
>>boy this is going to be fun.  Anyway, it is not a friction fit, any 
>>suggestions?
>>
>>I know I'm in the minority with this #5 thing.  I was looking for some cheap, 
>>remote operation with the .148 track,  If I was using AF or Gragraves I would 
>>be using AF uncouplers, but I'm not.
>>
>>Let me know what you think,
>>
>>Tom Stoltz,  NASG
>>
>>Since I wrote this letter, SHS has come out with their S scale coupler.  I 
>>have no experience with them nor have I even seen them, so I am making no 
>>statement on the SHS coupler.
>>
>>I could be wrong, but I think if you go to the [email protected] list 
>>you will find #5's to be what most S scalers use.  
>>
>>I am not scale, I am Hi-rail/Flyer.  This is only my 2� worth.  
>>Flamethrowers, please be gentle.
>>
>>Tom Stoltz
>>Maine S Gaugers
>>NASG
>>________________________________________________________________________
>>________________________________________________________________________
>>
>>Message: 4         
>>  Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:05:27 -0500
>>  From: Bill Clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Subject: Couplers
>>
>>
>>Michael Greene and I have been doing some research on installing "scale" 
>>Kadee-style couplers on some locomotives and rolling stock. It occurred to 
>>us that a page or pages dedicated to the issues involved and with some 
>>specifics that we learned on specific installations might be generally 
>>useful. So we have documented our experience so far on showcaseline.com. 
>>This is meant to be a work in progress with plenty of room for ideas and 
>>experiences from other modelers. Check it out and let us know what you think!
>>
>>http://www.showcaseline.com/indexCouplers.html
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Bill and Michael
>>    
>>
>
>
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