Hi Bob,
I had to have North West Short Line make an idler gear for my 2 RS-2's several 
years ago - don't remember the details now, but the gear had cracked.  It cost 
$95; $75 for the tooling setup and $5 each for 4 gears (I bought 3 extras).  I 
dealt with Raoul Martin at NWSL.  They machined the gears out of delrin which 
would outlast the original molded plastic ones.  NWSL had the gears in stock 
(after making mine), or did at the time (1999).
Roger Nulton
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bob Werre 
  Cc: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 12:20 PM
  Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: Alco model's Alcos


  Friends,
  I don't know how many of you folks have some of the original Alco 
  Models models of Alcos--(trying saying that 3 times!), but as several 
  have found out, there is trouble in River City. When those units 
  arrived we were in Heaven, finally a brass diesel that wasn't a crude 
  kit! However, one of our local members, Bill Green who had two 
  different styles painted for the ATSF noticed problems several years 
  ago. He noticed the truck/gearbox castings were starting to distort 
  eventually jamming the whole mechanism. 
  I had been quite pleased with mine and not seeing such a problem. 
  I remotored both of mine with a larger can motor with flywheel and the 
  performance improved. The last time I lubed the unit, I had a problem 
  with a mounting lug that holds the brass truck side frames to the 
  gearbox--part of it broke off. A washer and a little longer screw put 
  the unit back on the rails till now.
  In a recent conversation and visits with Jack Troxell, who owns 
  three units, confirmed that none of his worked anymore. I went and 
  tore into my a RS-3 that was running a little rough. We have confirmed 
  that all the zamac gearboxes are swelling around the drive axles. 
  Additionally, Jack and I have both lost several mounting lugs 
  completely. Now Jack, who owns a milling machine, lathe and all the 
  knowledge to fix this sort of thing is dealing with his units. I made a 
  new mounting lug to get the side frames back in position and a few 
  passes with a rat-tail file opened the axle holes. I hopefully, will 
  check out my second unit (one of my favorites, a Milwaukee RSD-5) 
  shortly. It seems readily apparent that these all will sidelined to the 
  scrap line as the metal continues to distort, swell and eventually crumble.
  This brings about a question we might want to consider. Would it 
  be productive to try and have new drive units made for these? Or has 
  somebody solved this problem by using a Railmaster, SHS or AM drive and 
  just mated them to the body shell!

  Bob Werre


   

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