And we got a response.
----- Original Message -----
From: "G. Leigh Swanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 9:33 PM
Subject: hollowing out wood roofs
Mon evening Jan 1, 2007 Hi, Tom! Some 10 or so years ago I tried
something similar using the wood roof that came with the Chester Ind. Arts
aluminum side streamliners. I used a radial arm saw, and held the roof
"upside down" in a simple jig. Then the saw was run thru the jig multiple
times moving the jig centerline closer and farther away from the blade, and
increasing the depth of the cut near the middle (centerline) of the roof.
That was a failure as the roof eventually split along its length. A second
"experiment"worked out better, but required a more complicated jig and
required dropping the spinning blade into the work (a dangerous, dangerous
procedure I hesitate to mention) This second procedure was successful
because the cut started and ended such that the regular roof thickness was
not compromised at the ends (I left about an inch of material at each end.)
Essentially I cut a wide slot, tapered at the ends of the cut by the ten
inch saw blade. All that work was so I could recess Walthers tubular lights
into the roof to illuminate (show off) interior detail. That turned out to
be a bad idea because it highlighted the car's construction, but thats a
different (long) story. The radial arm saw is not the proper tool for the
task. A better choice is a vertical mill. A drill press fitted with a cross
vice probably could be made to work. If you think that any of this has
merit, feel free to pass along to the individual or to the list whatever you
think is worth while. Looking back, knowing what I know now, I would use the
American Models 80' smooth side streamliners (train shows and eBay) and cut
up the car to get the hollow roof I needed. More expensive yes, but much
safer. Reduce the cost by selling to me the green plastic window inserts
from the donor cars <VBG>!!
Happy New Year! Regards Leigh Swanson Detroit, Mich
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