Bob-

When I make decals either by printing them using a laser printer or using dry 
transfers, I try not to handle the decal paper too much and get fingerprints 
and oil on it so the surface is clean. A light overspray of Krylon Acrylic is 
then applied to protect the decal but there is a little shine/sheen that 
doesn't always go away when I overspray the entire result with Dull Coat. I 
want to experiment sometime with Testors Gloss Coat or Microscale Liquid Decal 
Film as an overcoat just to see what happens.

Decals made by rubbing dry transfers on blank decal paper or by printing on a 
laser work great and aren't fragile at all. I read that some guys don't even 
use an overcoat at all but I have been spraying mine.

Decals made on an inkjet definitely need an overspray or otherwise the ink will 
bleed when you drop the decal in water. If you cut the decal too close to the 
edge of the lettering/logo, it will likely bleed.

Note that I am using some old Walther's decal paper my local hobby shop had on 
a discount rack. It isn't the thinnest film around but it works.

Stan Furmanak


From: Bob Werre [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:57 AM
To: Furmanak, Stan
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} decals vs dry transfers

Stan,  When you transfer the 'transfers' to decal paper do you overspray them 
before applying?  How fragile are they?

Bob Werre
BobWphoto.com


Furmanak, Stan wrote:


I used both of the them 'cause sometimes what I need is only available in one 
or the other type. Dry transfers do look good when they work i.e. you apply 
them positioned correctly and the all of the transfers transfer!


Also, if you prefer decals but the only available lettering you find is a dry 
transfer, just apply the dry transfer to a sheet of blank decal paper and 
convert it to a decal,

Stan Furmanak
Annvllle, PA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 
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