GROUP:
Since Stan and Bob began this string, I thought I'd put in my two-cents.
Stan has offered up some nice methods and tricks for transfers/decals. I,
however, have had one problem with laser decals that Stan seems not to have
encountered. Laser decals, obviously done on a laser printer, are composed of a
series of multi-colored granules. In the past, when using laser-made decals, I,
like Stan, gave the finished sheet a coat of Krylon...actually three light
coats. When I cut the decals from the sheet I noticed, if I cut too close, the
granules tended to slough off the decal paper giving me a slightly jagged edge
that tended to bleed when I applied setting solution. The laser decals also
didn't seem to snuggle as well as ink jet decals. So, I've now gone back
exclusively to making my own ink jet decals which I also spray with three light
coats of Krylon. Now, as opposed to Stan's methods, I take one additional step.
After the decals have separated from the carrier, I dip them into Future Floor
Wax before setting them on a model. Tremendous snuggle that may/may not require
setting solution. I learned this trick from some military plastic model guys
with whom I meet once a month. They also dip all their airplane canopies in
Future before installing them. This removes any/all scratches/blemishes While I
haven't tried it, using the same method on structure window glazing/vehicle
glass might work well.
Gerry Evans
In Flagstaff
----- Original Message -----
From: Furmanak, Stan
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 10:32 AM
Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} decals vs dry transfers
Bob-
When I make decals either by printing them using a laser printer or using dry
transfers, I try not to handle the decal paper too much and get fingerprints
and oil on it so the surface is clean. A light overspray of Krylon Acrylic is
then applied to protect the decal but there is a little shine/sheen that
doesn't always go away when I overspray the entire result with Dull Coat. I
want to experiment sometime with Testors Gloss Coat or Microscale Liquid Decal
Film as an overcoat just to see what happens.
Decals made by rubbing dry transfers on blank decal paper or by printing on a
laser work great and aren't fragile at all. I read that some guys don't even
use an overcoat at all but I have been spraying mine.
Decals made on an inkjet definitely need an overspray or otherwise the ink will
bleed when you drop the decal in water. If you cut the decal too close to the
edge of the lettering/logo, it will likely bleed.
Note that I am using some old Walther's decal paper my local hobby shop had on
a discount rack. It isn't the thinnest film around but it works.
Stan Furmanak
From: Bob Werre [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:57 AM
To: Furmanak, Stan
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} decals vs dry transfers
Stan, When you transfer the 'transfers' to decal paper do you overspray them
before applying? How fragile are they?
Bob Werre
BobWphoto.com
Furmanak, Stan wrote:
I used both of the them 'cause sometimes what I need is only available in one
or the other type. Dry transfers do look good when they work i.e. you apply
them positioned correctly and the all of the transfers transfer!
Also, if you prefer decals but the only available lettering you find is a dry
transfer, just apply the dry transfer to a sheet of blank decal paper and
convert it to a decal,
Stan Furmanak
Annvllle, PA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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