> I recall Ed Loizeaux used to <snip>
> require others to check wheel alignment on
> any item they want to run on his layout.
> Jim Kindraka
Very good memory, Jim. My basic premise is that flawless operation is
possible and attainable. Everything I do is with that goal in mind.
Cosmetics around here earn a lower priority when compared to keeping things
on the rails.
I do ask visitors to assure me that their equipment meets the NASG/NMRA
wheel standards. Many folks are amazed that I would even ask such a thing,
but they understand after a bit of education. Even very expensive metal
toys are sometimes out of gauge not to mention the less expensive plastic
toys as well. And then there are the wooden toys of daze gone bye for
really interesting variations with every dimension. Names omitted to
protect the guilty.
Once we have the wheel gauge issue fully understood, I ask that the wheels
be spotlessly clean. Again, most folks assume their wheels are clean --
until they actually look at them with an Optivisor or some other magnifying
device. Then we go through a wheel cleaning explanation.
Then I ask if the couplers are at the right height. Usually, the answer is
"this is the way it comes" or something similar. So we go through the
entire routine about why it is important to inspect and adjust as needed
BEFORE running in a long train. Simply making sure the trip pin clears the
railhead is not always done.
Lastly, if a loco is involved, I ask if the loco has been run for at least
10 continuous minutes on any layout without problems. Usually the answer is
something like "I only have a test track" or similar. Test tracks are
typically straight sections without any curves or turnouts. Straight test
tracks are quite limited in what they actually test. It is amazing how many
problems show themselves up with just a few minutes of running around both
left and right curves and through turnouts going both forward and backward.
My test track has a radius that is 2" SMALLER than the minimum radius on
the layout. Thus, if it works on the test track at all, it will work on the
layout even better.
Some problems will only show up on curves and never on straight tracks.
With steam locos, the sideways swing of pilot trucks and trailing trucks
sometimes cause short circuits when the wrong things touch each other. A
curve is needed to find that out. I have a flat car with two 6-wheel trucks
that shorts out only on a curve in a specific direction. The cause: One
wheelset moves sideways when the car goes around a curve. When it moves far
enough to the side, the insulated wheels shorts out against the brake shoe.
The fix: Disassemble the entire truck and file down the inside of the brake
shoe making it thinner so that the wheel cannot touch it. Wonderful flat
car once fixed. Some folks would install a plastic washer over the end of
the axle to prevent some sideways motion. Either way, the problem is
fixable.
For my own personal equipment, I try to always use equalized trucks if
possible. Rigid trucks are sometimes needed and that is fine for a few
unique cars here and there.
Philosophically, I have the premise that everything I buy will have a
problem of one kind or another. I plan to analyze the matter and repair it
before placing it on the layout for use. It is just another step that needs
to be done and I do not complain about it. It comes with the territory of
SCALE model railroading. Over the years, I have discovered problems with
every brand of S scale equipment from time to time. I do envy the AF folks
at times because they do not have this kind of problem to be concerned
about. But in the end, I am a scale kinda guy and like the looks of the
stuff and perversely enjoy the problem-solving aspects of things. It
becomes a game -- sort of. Me against Them, if you get my drift.
Interestingly, I have noticed that RTR equipment owners are not always aware
of all the various things needed to make operation foolproof. Kit builders
do have a better understanding of things in general. While folks are always
welcome to bring equipment over here for running, I rarely let untested or
uninspected new stuff operate during a public open house. Just too risky.
The tried and true and proven stuff is used for open houses at all times.
At the recent O SCALE NATIONAL convention, the layout was open for four
hours on four evenings. Sixteen hours of continuous running in total. Two
trains ran at all times -- one with 30 cars (reefer block) and the other
with 40+ cars (mixed freight) -- and there was only one minor derailment the
entire time. No false uncoupling at all. Locos did not even need
lubrication during the run. I still cannot figure out why one wheelset
(only) did derail and only once. Nothing had changed as far as I could
tell. Fortunately, it happened right near the edge of the layout and was
easily fixed. Had it happened deep inside a tunnel, I would have had to
make a "crawling movement" to put things back onto the track. I might add
that the two locos involved in this showing were the River Raisin Models UP
turbine by Ajin and the River Raisin Models SP decapod by Boo Rim. Other
brands of locos, such as SHS and AM, work equally as well and so no
qualitative judgments are being made here.
In summary (finally got there), my experience has been that merely taking
things out of the box and putting them onto the track will work MUCH of the
time, but not ALL of the time. Best to inspect, verify, adjust, correct,
clean, etc. for truly flawless operation.
Hope this epistle helps someone else with the same goals. Notice that I did
not even touch upon track issues. I will leave that area up to someone else
with more knowledge -- like Dick Karnes (hint!).
Cheers...Ed L.
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