1.  Does it make sense to install the magnetic decoupling
'plates' immediately?

If you will be using under-the-track uncouplers, then installing them BEFORE
laying the track is best.  Be careful if you locate them on grades since the
newer free-rolling cars will coast down the grade when you want them to stay
still.  Annoying for sure.  Also, if installing them on curves, be sure to
offset them from the track centerline so they are centered on the uncoupling
pins hanging down from the coupler.  These pins swing toward the outside
rail on a curve.  If you install between-the-rails magnets, doing that AFTER
the track is laid works fine.

2.   How are these magnetic ?plates' powered? Is the selection
also DCC?

Some are permanent magnets and are always powered.  You cannot turn them
off.  Other types are electromagnets which require electricity in order to
be "on".  DCC could be used to power an electromagnet, but you will need to
install a relay between the DCC decoder and the electromagnet due to the
high current draw.  Most folks just use a momentary pushbutton to power
electromagnetic uncouplers.  Be careful about using a toggle switch because
if it is accidentally left "on" the electromagnet might overheat and start a
fire.

3.   Are they mounted under-track or between the rails?

Kadee offers uncouplers of both types.  Under-the-track looks better since
you cannot see them.  But they are hard to reposition if you change your
mind later.  Between-the-rails look acceptable and you can easily move them
around later without tearing apart trackwork.  Click here for one brand:

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/uncoupl.htm

4.   Does one ballast over them?

If you want to hide them, feel free to ballast over them.  The typical
between-the-rails uncoupler is too thick to look realistic if it is covered
with ballast.  Many folks will build a highway road crossing over the
between-the-rails uncoupler to disguise it.

1.   Will DCC allow my to automatically ?zone' areas? What I
mean by that, can an ?occupied' spur, siding or track length be
illuminated? I presume it would be ?red' so subsequent trains do
not proceed.

Yes this is possible, but quite complex.  Keep this desire in mind when
looking at the various DCC systems you might purchase.

2.   Of course I'd use S-scale signals and US-transition era bulb
configuration: I presume these are era-specific?

Most of the ready-to-run S scale signals of the USA type are fairly generic.
Each different railroad had their own variations -- both mechanical and
electrical.  Plan on lots of research and self-education to get something
truly accurate for some specific railroad.  A generic red-yellow-green is
easier to obtain.  The USA did not have one nationwide uniform signaling
system during the transition era.  

3.   Are there suppliers of such signals in S-scale? Can anyone suggest a
weblink?

Yes, but many of them are rather toy like.  If great realism is part of your
goal, then you might have to build some signals yourself.  Not hard, but
time consuming.  I used TOMAR oversized HO parts to build my S scale
signals.  Here are some links to realistic signals:

http://www.modelmemories.com/prodmenu.htm#s

http://www.njinternational.com/s_scale_signals.htm

https://tomarindustries.com/signals.htm  
(TOMAR will make S scale signals upon request using oversized HO parts)

Lastly, I'll end with an apology for my ignorance.

As Will Rogers once said, "We are all experts.  It is just on different
things."  (Or something like that.)

Best Regards from
Hombrechtikon, Switzerland!
John M Walker

Best regards from Los Altos, California.....home of Mickey Mouse.

Have fun...Ed L.



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