Bill,

I started the process by scraping the top with the edge of a new box cutter
blade attached to a holder.  I started at the bottom of the window area and
angled the blade down at the same angle as the windows and cut into the nose
slightly and then dragged the blade outward toward the front of the nose
removing material as you go.  I rough shaped the contour that way and held
the nose up to a scale drawing to make sure that I removed enough material
and ay the correct slope.  Then I use a series of nail files in different
degrees of courseness to sand down the hard edges created by the scraping
process.  That was followed by final shaping with varying grades of
sandpaper.

Give it a try.  You won't be disappointed.

Bob Frascella
Wenham, MA

On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 10:30 PM, Scale S Only <[email protected]>wrote:

>
>
> Darn --another thing to add to my list of things to do...
> Looks good. What tools did you use aand how long did it take?
>
> Have fun!
> Bill Winans
>
> ...sure enough, the nose on the AM version is about 6" too long and slopes
> upward too much. The AM nose top meets the bottom of the window opening,
> whereas on the prototype there's about a 2-3" lip below the window opening
> and a fillet between the window frame area and the nose top. I basically,
> scraped and sanded the top to a profile that reasonably resembles the
> prototype. There's not much you can do about the extra 6" length, but I do
> think that the reshaped nose contour is worth the effort. Let me know what
> you think.
>
> Bob Frascella
> Wenham, MA
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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