Thorin, I endorse Ron Sebastian's suggestion for annealing the brass if you
intend to go with the .040 or even .015 sheet to curve it to shape. I used
.015 brass when I built a sub-roof for an old Ideal Models 1/8" scale roadside
diner that I wanted to update. I liked the graphics printed in the 1940s on the
diner sides but the card stock roof posted a problem so I cut out .015 sheet
and annealed it with a propane torch (the same type you'd buy at a hardware or
home improvement store for plumbing or other soldering work). It then was easy
to bend the sub-roof around a form just by hand. I attached a photo showing
that annealing does work quite nicely. The finished sub-roof was a base for
applying shingles. Incidentally, the roadside diner in 12"=1 ft. form was
essentially a "kit" that could be delivered on site in the 1930s. Only Ideal
Models ever made a replica version with the Art Deco style lettering of the
era. The model's detailing came from an "X Files" episode in which the TV
filming set was a diner somewhere . I did a freeze fame and made a sketch of
details. These diners were so common in the steam era that they would make a
nice S scale model of narrow width that easily would fit into most 3/16" scale
layouts because of the small footprint.
Edward B. Havens
Tucson, Ariz.
---- dphobbies <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thorin
>
> A couple comments.
>
> .040 is very thick to be formed by hand or even mechanically with such a
> small footprint as an S Scale steeple cab roof. We have O Scale etched brass
> passenger car bodies that we have formed on a rather large press. They are
> only .025 thick and still pose some difficulty even using steel forming
> tools. A urethane membrane is placed between the female tool and the etched
> plate so the rivet detail is not obscured.
>
> If you roof has etched detail this will pose a problem for you. If it is not
> etched, I would substitute a much thinner piece of brass for the roof,
> probably somewhere in the .015 range. Although that is considerably thinner
> than what was apparently provided in your kit, you will find it very robust
> when soldered in place.
>
> If you are detemined to use the kit part, then anneal the brass to soften it
> significantly to form your bends.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Ron Sebastian
> Des Plaines
>
>
> --- In [email protected], Thorinn Marty <lagt...@...> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning,
> > I am assembling a brass steeplecab kit. All of the pieces come
> > flat.
> > The roof consists of a piece of 0.040" thick brass. (Wire gauge 19.) I am
> > supposed to curve it to create a standard boxcab roof: flat with curves
> > only
> > from side-to-side. The radius at the edge is about 1/4 inch and the rest
> > is a
> > wide, gentle curve.
> >
> > I just shaped the first roof for my steeplecab fleet. It was not fun and I
> > am
> > not trilled with the results. (Fortunately a wooden pantograph platform
> > will
> > cover most of the mess.) The piece is too wide for my bending brake. My
> > hands
> > are not strong enough to shape this 0.040 or 19 gauge brass sheet. It is
> > too
> > slippery for my vice to hold with a rod plus I am trying to not damage the
> > rivet detail. Do I need a specialty tool?
> >
> > This one is small at only 3 1/2 inches in length. I plan to build some big
> > boxcabs, starting with a NYNH&H EF-3b. These will be the same width but
> > much
> > longer.
> >
> > I know these lists includes some masters of brass. How do you shape such
> > things?
> > Thorin
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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