Bill, I also use that method but in remote locations, I use the
Tortoise machines. I do mount a panel LED to let me know the thing is
in the raised position. Unfortunately the cost is a factor, so I only
have three working right now. I might add two more when I get into
operations a bit more.
A couple of local guys use some fairly stiff rope fiber (as weeds
between the rails) to stop the cars. Another guy simply issues rubber
erasers as a temporary wheel stop--they also work good for cleaning the
rails.
Bob Werre
> Bob and Bob --
>
> I have used fine (.015) piano wire run through a long brass or plastic
> tube (3/32” OD -- you can also use the smallest diameter R/C aircraft
> cable type push rods from Sullivan) that goes from the fascia board to
> under the track on a grade where they curve up and go through the
> track vertically. When you push in on the wire at the fascia, it
> projects upward to where it will catch on a car axle and hold it (and
> others behind) in check. Pull back on the wire and things are free to
> roll. Total cost is might be two bucks for the tube and wire (a bit
> more for Sullivan cable). I also don’t use the steel weights that come
> with plastic cars because they do get sucked into uncoupling magnets
> when mounted on free rolling cars. I replace them with A-Line lead
> sheet cut to size for appropriate fit and weight.
>
> Have fun!
> Bill Winans
> --------------------------------
>
> Also, a little stiffer rolling qualities virtually (no, "completely")
> eliminates any false uncoupling with the craft magnet uncouplers I
> use, which can happen with freer rolling trucks when uncoupling
> magnets attract them and create slack in the couplers.
>
> Bob Nicholson
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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