John, I was totally surprised with my experience with the Star Paints.
I did grit blast the brass in most areas. I've never had paint peel off
like that and when it washed off so easy-that was pretty scary! I
wonder if just plain cleaners that we use for rail or other thing around
the RR would do the same thing?
I'm just not certain if I'll ever try using it on brass again--plastic
might be another matter. When the Badger line came out--what 15 years
ago, lot's of guys had trouble with it drying too fast, clogging the
airbrush and a few other minor things. I dealt with those things and
some of my best models came from that stuff. After hardening, it's just
as tough as 20 year old Floquil. We have found that, at least with the
old formula, Floquil hardens over time just like concrete.
I like the colors of Scale Coat, but even after baking, seems to wear
rather badly. I have a couple of steam engines that show brass in the
areas where they come apart or rest on during assembly (and I do use a
padded area). Some of my engines were painted 25+ years ago and look
pretty good. I just don't like doing things over more than twice!
Not that I need to try another paint, but where is Tru Color available
from? I know some of the local guys are getting some paints from Spain,
but I don't recall the brand name.
Bob
>
> Bob:
>
> In defense of Star Brand paint . . .
>
> Star Paint is IMHO the best model RR "paint" in the market with the
> possible exception of Tru Color brand which I intend to try next
> painting season.
>
> I the word "paint" in quotes because, as you may know, Start Brand,
> like accupaint, is actually an ink based medium. So it is very thin
> and that is why lacquer thinner "washed" the stuff off so easily.
> Consequently, one must carefully prepare the surface to be painted.
> The surface of the model must be thoroughly cleaned and if painting
> metal, the metal must be etched with a mild acid such as white
> vinegar. In addition, the modeling surface needs to be prepared to
> eliminate scratches, dings, etc, because the paint does not cover
> these blemishes. I have painted three GC SP Cabeese and never had a
> challenge with paint peeling with these models.
> Likewise, the Star Brand works well with plastic. I stripped (90%
> alcohol works very well -- let model soak overnight and soft scrub
> with tootbrush) and painted several S-Helper F7s in SP Black Widow
> colors. Had to mask and paint the silver curves on the nose -- almost
> rather go to the dentist for a root canal -- and the paint adhered well.
>
> I love the paint because the SP colors are spot on, it sprays well and
> one really has to screw up to make the paint run, it is (as you
> discovered) easy to remove if you do manage to screw up, and the paint
> cleans up very easily. I only disassemble my airbrush for cleaning at
> the end of paint season.
>
> The one huge drawback is that it is nasty stuff requiring proper
> ventilation and a respirator. However, I do not care for acrylic paint
> for my RR equipment. So if I am going to use a solvent based paint, I
> choose Star Brand.
>
> Cheers,
>
> ~ John
>
>
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