I hadn't done any homosote work until about a year ago when I started
working on two new 6' modules. I was given some left-overs to work
with. For the straight line stuff, I used a table saw with the blade at
about a 45 degree angle--man it worked well. Besides that you flip the
work over so the angle on the second run is already made.
Since I didn't have any major curves, I cut slots. I was surprised that
I had to cut the run in half and slice from both sides to make even
slight curves. However it worked and any roughness was cleaned up with
a really course sandpaper.
In the past I've cut my roadbed like Michael suggests and it works out
fairly well.
The advice of doing this all outdoors is paramount. Also do it on a
windy day and your neighbors downwind are gone!
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
On 3/19/12 10:30 AM, Michael Eldridge wrote:
Having done this both ways, I recommend cutting the Homasote to the
shapes you need, rather than cutting slots for bending. You'll get a
smoother top surface, less of a mountain of shredded Homasote, and
it's easier to handle.
I've used both a knife blade and a coarse blade (I think 8 tpi) in a
sabre saw. I had an easier time with the coarse blade (and dust mask,
and shop vac). After cutting the shapes, I bevel the edge about 1/4
inch with a surform shaver.
-Michael Eldridge
--- In [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com>,
"David Engle" <rirocket@...> wrote:
>
> I have a quantity of 7/16" Homosote board that I would like to saw
up into strips 3 in. wide for roadbed in yard area, vs. mainline
setting. Some will be straight, some will go on curves no less than
40" radius. How deep into the board width should the lateral cuts be,
and what spacing between the cuts should be best? Thanks Much. DJE
>
