That is right, the car's coupler will need the 180-degree turn, and it will be only the cars most likely to be against those engines. If the engine's coupler is the problem, I'll likely reach for the dikes or the Xuron cutter.
DJE ----- Original Message ----- From: ardeng To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 2:24 AM Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: SHS 1295 Couplers Dave- The 1295 has the same car separation as the 802. I wish it were less, i.e. closer to prototype. Functionally they are fine. I prefer their lack of slack slop. The 802's are ridiculous in that regard. You get enough slack just with the knuckle's loose spacing. The 1295's hold the glad-hand so loosely, it is easy to rotate. Not so with the Kadees where you will get rip damage as Ed noted. But - you need to rotate the hand on the car mating with the engine. If you rotate the pilot's coupler pin, it will hit the pilot! Arden --- In [email protected], "David Engle" <rirocket@...> wrote: > > Has anyone installed SHS 1295 couplers on Overland/River Raisin brass E- and F- units. How do they compare to the KD802 in carbody separation abd lateral flexibility. How much does that 802 longitudinal slack help/hinder things. How much shim did you need to get correct coupler elevation. How easy is it to turn the "glad-hand" 180 degrees to get it out of the way when a pilot is involved, as per Ed's suggestion. Thanks Much. DJE >
