It's 93 here east of Cleveland. John Armstrong
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Lambert
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Sergent Couplers
From: Alan Lambert
Fort Worth, Texas
Andy,
Your last parragraph sums it up for everyone. it is very hard for a one man
show to get it right. It takes a lot of fiddling to make sure it is right and
Frank is doing all he can for this. We need to give him a break and let him
work out all of the bugs he has incountered. I am in that thought faize know
.Give him a break. He knows we want them. Someone else jump in and help John
with the draft box.
Alan
Down here where it is Hot.
From: andym <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 10:50 AM
Subject: {S-Scale List} Sergent Couplers
Hi,
Here is a rather objective review of the old Sergent S scale couplers
that came in kit form. This review will not apply to the new ones as I
understand they are going to be keyed and if they are RTR, even better.
This review is based on 4 Sergent coupler kit users.
When I restarted in S Scale in 2000, Sergent couplers were readily
available in the kit format. Since I didn't realize there was a Kadee
802 standard, I bought lots. I really like them; however, I have found
that the ones I bought early on the game go together quite well and the
ones I bought just before they were cancelled do not go together well.
This may be in part due to the moulds being old. Unfortunately, I did
not keep track of which ones I bought earliest.
Remember, I do prefer them over Kadees but I want people to know what
some of us have encountered with the kit version. I have three friends
that have used the HO kit versions. One models P87 and the other On30.
We have come up with these conclusions. The On30 guy has gone back to
Kadees because he finds them way easier. You can probably figure out
what the P87 guy still uses.
Another modeller I know used the S scale kit ones with his On2 layout
and decided to go back to Kadees when he changed scales because he found
them to take too long to build not 100% unreliable. He says if the new
S scale ones come out and they are reliable that he may change back
because he did like them alot.
First I will list the problems and this may be because of some of them
coming out of an old mould.
The metal is very slippery once filed and I have yet to find a glue
that will keep them together 100%. I have tried many types of glue,
even metal filled epoxy. The HO modeller whom I know that uses the HO
kits and had the same problem, suggested Sinbad so I will give it a try.
At times, to get the knuckle to move completely freely, the hole in the
shank will not line up. After gluing and if I drill out the hole, they
will come apart, hence the need for a stronger glue.
If they are not put together so that everything lines up perfectly,
there will be problems both coupling and uncoupling.
Each one takes at least 15 minuntes to put together. Hand filing close
to the pin in the knuckle is really important.
If they are not installed all at the same height or there is a slight
bit of vertical sloppiness, there will be a problem coupling.
Until John Degnan comes out with his draught gear box, there are no
boxes for them. I have developed my own method but John's will be
better and I will support his effort.
Because of these problems, I have about an 80% success rate with them.
If your friends all use Kadees, there will be problems and an idler car
with one of each coupler does not solve this issue.
Now the plusses.
They look way better than Kadees.
They are slightly cheaper than Kadees, 5 to a pack.
When they operate perfectly, they operate better than Kadees.
Operating perfectly means building them slowly and carefully and
installing them carefully.
If you really want prototype operation, then they will slow down your
train movements and increase the amount of time in switching things out.
More fun for the whole family!
There is none of the unprototypical giggling that the 802's have (even
with a 0.032" piece of rod in the spring to improve the giggling). This
is really important when running at 1 to 5 scale mph.
Perfect for close operation and shelf layouts.
Here is a reccommedation. I have also found that when they are not
used for a while, they tend to operate stiffly at first. Move them
around a bit and they will return to their former glory.
It seems the minuses outweight the plusses on the kit versions. So
when the new ones arrive and if they are bullet proof, I will stop
building the old ones and leave them for when I have finished other more
pressing projects.
I would suggest to all prospective users of the new Sergents who have
never tried them, to test a few before going the full route. Just
because I like them, it does not mean you will.
As far as being patient goes, Frank Sergent is a one man show as I am.
My reason for delays on my kits are always because there are problems
with accuracy and mistakes that have to be corrected. Admittedly some
of the mistakes are mine. There is no point in coming out with
something that is not ready.
Here's to patience.
cheers,
Andy Malette
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