From: Alan Lambert
           Fort worth, Texas
 
John, 
It is 105 in the shade down here. Problem is it is hot everywhere.Trying to 
stay cool.
               Alan
 

________________________________
 From: John <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Sergent Couplers
  

 
   
 
 
It's 93 here east of Cleveland.   John 
Armstrong 
----- Original Message -----  
>From: Alan  Lambert  
>To: [email protected]  
>Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 12:35  PM 
>Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Sergent  Couplers 
>
>  
>From: Alan Lambert 
>           Fort  Worth, Texas 
>  
>Andy, 
>Your last parragraph sums it up for everyone. it is very hard for a  one man 
>show to get it right. It takes a lot of fiddling to make sure it is  right and 
>Frank is doing all he can for this. We need to give him a break and  let him 
>work out all of the bugs he has incountered. I am in that thought  faize know 
>.Give him a break. He knows we want them. Someone else jump in and  help John 
>with the draft box. 
>                 Alan 
>Down here where it is Hot.
> 
>
>________________________________
>From: andym <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected] 
>Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 10:50  AM
>Subject: {S-Scale List}  Sergent Couplers
>
>
>  
>Hi,
>
>Here is a rather objective review of the old Sergent S scale 
  couplers 
>that came in kit form. This review will not apply to the new ones 
  as I 
>understand they are going to be keyed and if they are RTR, even 
  better. 
>This review is based on 4 Sergent coupler kit users.
>
>When I 
  restarted in S Scale in 2000, Sergent couplers were readily 
>available in 
  the kit format. Since I didn't realize there was a Kadee 
>802 standard, I 
  bought lots. I really like them; however, I have found 
>that the ones I 
  bought early on the game go together quite well and the 
>ones I bought just 
  before they were cancelled do not go together well. 
>This may be in part 
  due to the moulds being old. Unfortunately, I did 
>not keep track of which 
  ones I bought earliest.
>
>Remember, I do prefer them over Kadees but I 
  want people to know what 
>some of us have encountered with the kit version. 
  I have three friends 
>that have used the HO kit versions. One models P87 
  and the other On30. 
>We have come up with these conclusions. The On30 guy 
  has gone back to 
>Kadees because he finds them way easier. You can probably 
  figure out 
>what the P87 guy still uses.
>
>Another modeller I know 
  used the S scale kit ones with his On2 layout 
>and decided to go back to 
  Kadees when he changed scales because he found 
>them to take too long to 
  build not 100% unreliable. He says if the new 
>S scale ones come out and 
  they are reliable that he may change back 
>because he did like them 
  alot.
>
>First I will list the problems and this may be because of some of 
  them 
>coming out of an old mould.
>
>The metal is very slippery once 
  filed and I have yet to find a glue 
>that will keep them together 100%. I 
  have tried many types of glue, 
>even metal filled epoxy. The HO modeller 
  whom I know that uses the HO 
>kits and had the same problem, suggested 
  Sinbad so I will give it a try.
>
>At times, to get the knuckle to move 
  completely freely, the hole in the 
>shank will not line up. After gluing 
  and if I drill out the hole, they 
>will come apart, hence the need for a 
  stronger glue.
>
>If they are not put together so that everything lines up 
  perfectly, 
>there will be problems both coupling and 
  uncoupling.
>
>Each one takes at least 15 minuntes to put together. Hand 
  filing close 
>to the pin in the knuckle is really important.
>
>If they 
  are not installed all at the same height or there is a slight 
>bit of 
  vertical sloppiness, there will be a problem coupling.
>
>Until John 
  Degnan comes out with his draught gear box, there are no 
>boxes for them. I 
  have developed my own method but John's will be 
>better and I will support 
  his effort.
>
>Because of these problems, I have about an 80% success rate 
  with them.
>
>If your friends all use Kadees, there will be problems and 
  an idler car 
>with one of each coupler does not solve this 
  issue.
>
>Now the plusses.
>
>They look way better than 
  Kadees.
>
>They are slightly cheaper than Kadees, 5 to a pack.
>
>When 
  they operate perfectly, they operate better than Kadees. 
>Operating 
  perfectly means building them slowly and carefully and 
>installing them 
  carefully.
>
>If you really want prototype operation, then they will slow 
  down your 
>train movements and increase the amount of time in switching 
  things out. 
>More fun for the whole family!
>
>There is none of the 
  unprototypical giggling that the 802's have (even 
>with a 0.032" piece of 
  rod in the spring to improve the giggling). This 
>is really important when 
  running at 1 to 5 scale mph.
>
>Perfect for close operation and shelf 
  layouts.
>
>Here is a reccommedation. I have also found that when they are 
  not 
>used for a while, they tend to operate stiffly at first. Move them 
>around a bit and they will return to their former glory.
>
>It seems 
  the minuses outweight the plusses on the kit versions. So 
>when the new 
  ones arrive and if they are bullet proof, I will stop 
>building the old 
  ones and leave them for when I have finished other more 
>pressing 
  projects.
>
>I would suggest to all prospective users of the new Sergents 
  who have 
>never tried them, to test a few before going the full route. Just 
>because I like them, it does not mean you will.
>
>As far as being 
  patient goes, Frank Sergent is a one man show as I am. 
>My reason for 
  delays on my kits are always because there are problems 
>with accuracy and 
  mistakes that have to be corrected. Admittedly some 
>of the mistakes are 
  mine. There is no point in coming out with 
>something that is not 
  ready.
>
>Here's to patience.
>
>cheers,
>
>Andy 
  Malette
>
>
> 
>
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