A G@W NYC 19000-series caboose is going to be twice what it cost back in 1985/6. However, other pieces from that time often go for less than they retailed. It all depends on demand I guess.
--- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > Of course you're correct about the value of things, but I recall buying > my second brass Overland UP CA-6 caboose new for $65.00.--I think I paid > about $95 for the first. I also think I paid about $85 for my M-53 > boxcar on the secondary market. > > I think the most common brass diesel from the 'golden era' might have > been the various flavors of SD-40-2's. Original retail was listed in > the $450 range, but the street price was about $350, which is close to > Jim King's price for his kits. How one determines the price vs value is > obviously a matter of opinion. > > Some brass remains fairly close to original price, some goes for less, > while other items receive double, triple or even more depending on the > relative rarity of the piece vs demand. Over the years I've purchased > brass, plastic and resin new and on the used market. Many of us are old > horse traders, so I do keep my eyes peeled for fairly priced items, > although that has been fading rather rapidly (something about the plight > of the middle class!) > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > > > Bob, > > Your kidding, right? According to my inflation calculator $80 in 1980 > > would be $250 now. The value of _things_ really don't change, just > > the value of the dollar. > > *Ed Kozlowsky* > > *Sanford, Maine* > > *sscale.org* > > > > *From:* Bob Werre <bob@...> > > *To:* [email protected] > > *Sent:* Tuesday, September 18, 2012 1:48 PM > > *Subject:* Re: {S-Scale List} Re: something old - something new > > > > Also remember, age has it's privileges (very few though). At one > > time one could purchase the B&O, the ribbed Milw cars, Airslides > > etc. for just a few dollars more than what the resin cars sell for > > now. > > > > Bob Werre > > PhotoTraxx > > > > > > > >> Guys -- > >> > >> Here's my take on brass (expensive) vs. plastic/resin/urethane > >> (less expensive): If the car was seen less often than once a day > >> on a railroad with 100-car trains, brass is OK. If the car was > >> ubiquitous -- several in an average train -- it should be > >> produced in plastic/resin/urethane. The reason is simple: If > >> the car was common, you need a lot of them. If you have just > >> one, it looks really out of place. But if you have none, it > >> won't be missed. > >> > >> A good example: PRR X29 boxcar. If you have none, no one will > >> miss it (except PRR fans). If you have only one, you will likely > >> think "that was such a common car. It doesn't make sense that I > >> have only one. I shouldn't have bought it." I'm waiting for the > >> DPH/SSA X29 so I can have several without breaking the hobby bank. > >> > >> In my experience, brass and plastic don't compete. Each has its > >> place. > >> > >> Dick Karnes > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
