I've been .060x.125 styrene strip for throw rods.By spacing them correctly, they look like a tie in the track. I drill and tap .080 machine screw holes to fasten the points to them. I've had some of these installations in place for several years with no failures. If I do have to replace one, it's a simple matter of making new one to replace the defective one.
boB Nicholson ______________________________________________ --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > Paul, Your technique of using the brass tabs is what I learned from our > local mentor, Jack Troxell. Another mentor Fred Little made up a two > piece forming tool to make the tabs with an offset to contour to the web > of the rail. We solder them to the side of the rail (I use silver > bearing solder), then drill the holes and round the edges for > appearance. I use the 00-90 screws while Jack used to make up rivets > (both work). We generally also use the same material (but a bit > thicker) that PC ties are made from but without the copper laminate. > > We also hinge most of the other ends. This allows the points to move > very easily and allows the use of the weaker twin coil machines if > desired. Jumper wires assure electrical contact. > In a couple of places where I used a replacement PC tie for the > throwbar, it seems as though they eventually give up. Re-soldering with > scenery, ballast and structures in place isn't fun. > > Bob Werre > > > On 9/27/12 4:22 PM, Paul Vaughn wrote: > > I can not beleive you guys are having such a bad time using PC Ties. I > > have used them sence 1966 with out the problems you are talking about. > > Try using a 0.015 strip of brass the width of the tie soldered to the > > point rail. You will have to notch the point base to accomidate the > > shim stock then solder in place.. Next drill a clearence hole for a > > 00-90 screw through the shim piece and a tap size hole in the pc tie > > then tap the tie for the 00-90 srew. Assemble in place. This will > > allow the points to pivot with out causing stress. Ed Stimpson Jr. did > > an artical in MR in the 1980's about using PC Ties, you should read > > it. Brian Ellerby used the closure rail as a flexable rail. A gap was > > cut near the frog in the closure rail then he spiked only two ties and > > soldered the point ends to the PC throw bar. Either method works with > > out the failures you describe. > > I have been using a 40 watt iron and haven't delamated any PC Tie. My > > trick is to use liquid rosin solder flux in making the joint. Only > > heating enough to make the joint. > > Paul > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
