I think you're right, and Micarta throwbars may be more substantial than styrene ones, too, but I can't seem to find it around here.
boB Nicholson ______________________________________________ --- In [email protected], Charles Weston <rotary-oy@...> wrote: > > Black or brown phenolic (Micarta) from a plastics supply house might make > good throwbars when mechanical attachment is used. > > Charles Weston > > --- On Fri, 9/28/12, Ed <Loizeaux@...> wrote: > > From: Ed <Loizeaux@...> > Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: PC Switches > To: [email protected] > Date: Friday, September 28, 2012, 6:03 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Â > > > > > > > > > > >"Michael Eldridge" wrote: > > > 1. how long your moving rails are from point to hinge. > > > > No hinge at all on my turnouts. No need to have one since the hinge itself > presents an opportunity for the flange to pick at the joint (on a curve) and > possibly derail. A solid length of rail is more foolproof. Then again, my > approach may not be prototypically authentic. > > > > > 2. do you have a rail joiner at the hinge? > > > > There is no hinge at all. > > > > > Anybody have a better looking alternative? > > > > Well since you asked..... There are two methods to make a simulated hinge > that makes moving the points much easier. One technique is to simply cut the > base of the (code 100) rail on both sides of the web. A Zona saw or Dremel > grinder can cut through the base in short order. Then the only part of the > rail that needs to be flexed is the web and the head. Makes flexing much > easier. After 25 years, no problem with rail breakage at all. Might not > work well with smaller rail sizes, but that is just a guesstimate. > > > > The other technique is to solder a small solid wire along the web across the > gap. The rail is totally cut (hence the gap), but the wire holds everything > in alignment. The smaller (than the rail) wire is the only thing that needs > to flex. > > > > > 3. what materials are people using for throw bars. > > > > PCB ties work for me. Buy 'em, nothing to make, easy to use, take solder > well, can be tapped if desired, easy to insulate if wanted and so forth. Not > much to complain about. > > > > > Like, (Paul) why use PC board if you are going to make a mechanical, > > unsoldered link of the points to the throw bar? > > > > If you want a mechanical unsoldered link, the PCB throw bars will still > accommodate you. So will other materials. > > > > > why use epoxy/fiberglass board (PC board without foil) instead of more > > common materials? > > > > PCB ties are very common and are available from several sources. FAST TRACKS > being just one. It is a matter of time vs. money. If you make everything > yourself, you will die before the layout is finished. If you buy everything > possible, you will go bankrupt before the layout is finished. The choice is > yours. > > > > > Should be painting the layout room walls later today, just sky color, > > > > Use BALLOON BLUE from Pittsburgh Paints. Do not use a more pale blue. > > > > Hope all this helps.....Ed L. > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
