Trevor, It was a fairly easy replacement. I first cut off the plastic wheel
and part of the shaft just behind the wheel (or the side towards the
front)using a small Micro Mark toothed saw blade in an Xacto handle. I suppose
a Zona or jeweler's saw would work also. I had the Micro Mark blade handy. Next
I filed the cut shaft nice and flat, tapped a centered dimple with a sharp
punch, then drilled with a #72 bit in a Dremel to about 1/8" deep or so, no
need to be exact. The wheels are snipped off the fret with a sharp pair of
scissors and the cuts filed a bit to keep the wheel round. The included
straight pins are cut off to about that 1/8" or so and acc'd to the wheel and
then acc'd into the drilled hole using gap filling acc. Lastly I touched up the
pin head and the cuts/file marks with flat black paint.
I've already been asked why I didn't replace the entire steering shaft with
wire. A good question as once the new, finer wheels are in place, the oversize
shaft is now more pronounced. This would've been more involved than I really
wanted to go as I have 10 of these to do and would require touch up paint of a
matching color.
I guess its up to anyone doing these how detailed they want to go. Myself,
just replacing the wheel was a big improvement to my eye.
Bud Rindfleisch
> Hi Bud:
>
> Thanks for the photos and the link (in subsequent messages). Can you describe
> the process for replacing the stock steering wheel with the etched version?
> How easy is it to get the stock one off - and is drilling necessary?
>
> Just looking for an opinion from someone who has actually done it, before I
> go ahead and upgrade the wheels on my flat car load.
>
> Cheers!
>
> - Trevor
>
> Trevor Marshall
>
> Port Rowan in 1:64
> I model a steam-era Canadian National branch line terminal in S scale, and
> blog about it here:
> http://themodelrailwayshow.com/cn1950s
>
> The Model Railway Show
> Listen in as two S scalers (and recovering radio newscasters) host a podcast
> about the hobby:
> http://www.themodelrailwayshow.com
>
>
>
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