Roy,
Yes, ceramic is better.  I turn my lamps on only as long as needed.  My layout 
room and mini-studio are well lit so I can set up everything in ambient light, 
then turn the floods on just for shooting.  Brooks

--- In [email protected], Roy Inman <rinphoto@...> wrote:
>
> Brooks,
> 
> Thanks very much for making your excellent tutorial available :)
> 
> One question: It appears to me that the sockets on the lights are plastic. I
> have had problems with overheating of the sockets when using high-wattage
> bulbs in plastic sockets so I had to switch to ceramic sockets. I assume
> this has not been a problem for you?
> 
> With cheer,
> 
> Roy Inman
> 
> 
> 
> From: bcgsteam <bcgsteam@...>
> Reply-To: S-Scale <[email protected]>
> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:41:18 +0000
> To: S-Scale <[email protected]>
> Subject: {S-Scale List} A Model Railroader's Guide to Digital Photography
> 
>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> I have compiled what I've learned about taking photos of models and layouts
> into "A Model Railroader's Guide to Digital Photography".  It is available
> for free downloading from MODEL RAILROADER MAGAZINE's website.  If you are
> interested go to www.modelrailroader.com.  In the black navigation bar at
> the top click on "Contributor Guidelines" on the left, then scroll about
> half way down to the section titled "How To Photograph A Model Train
> Layout."  Alternately, here is a direct link to the download:
> http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/articles/layout-visits/2013/04/how-to-photograp
> h-a-model-train-layout
> 
> If you've been thinking about taking better photos of your layout for
> submission to a magazine or just for your own use, this guide may be of
> help.  I'd be glad to address questions or comments off line via email at
> buffalocreeksteam@... <mailto:buffalocreeksteam%40comcast.net>
> Enjoy!
> Brooks Stover
>




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