What some O scale modelers have done with plastic sprockets on shafts is to drill the hub and the shaft and then pin them together.
Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. To: [email protected] From: [email protected] Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 15:58:40 -0500 Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} GP7 - Its alive - sort of Bill, You might recall that several of us here in the Houston Club went to a chain drive to replace that ribbed belt. It resulted in a much improved drive, but like lots of drilled plastic on metal shafts--if you make it tight it might split or if you make it snug, it's likely to slip. So the choice was slip or split! I ran mine for several years that way. So for round three, I chose to go to the SHS F unit trucks and some Overland motors (via ebay). They are in a state of--"when I get to it" right now. However mine have very nicely done paint jobs (photo on the S Sig site) and all the required lights. I replaced my handrails early on as well as adding winterization hatches, different horns and a few other long forgotten items. I think your drive method might have been simpler as I have to cut into the brass floor and fasten some custom made bolsters when the time comes. However, I have chosen that method and I lack the extra drives from Overland. Maybe we can get together and have a NMRA/NASG authorized pulling contest! I'll mention two things about the original models--first off I think they were the only Japanese produced brass models in S since the J&L tank car and they pulled very well. Bob Werre PhotoTraxx It might not look much different than the other day but it really is. I scrounged some usable driveshafts. The original “bolsters” are just bent sheet metal. It is too thin as well so the sideframes were free to wander. I soldered a piece of channel across the width to stiffen it up. The axles don’t just pop put of the sideframes now. I changed the body bushing from nylon to a brass bushing soldered on to the floor. At the same time I converted it to 3MM O Scale truck screws and a chunky spring. This drive conversion from the rubber band wonder to conventional was stupid simple. I wished I “saw” it earlier. Just clipped to transformer power it is pretty quiet too. With the stiffer bolster the wheels can get close to the sideframes so there is probably a massive short. I have to address that somehow. All wheels are set to insulated on the same side. I have to make some wipers for the insulated wheels. The handrails are taking a real beating here. They are likely to get removed shortly to get redone with new castings and phosphor bronze wire. So much for a simple completion! I wished the floor was separate from the drive like on Overland diesels. If anyone should happen to have a spare fuel tank from the Sunset GP7 or GP9 I am interested. This unit has a rather shortened tank. I would not mind having a spare. After shortening it I want to float it in cold water and fill it with lead to make a chunky weight. Never tried it. It could be a hoot. A few more hours fiddling then it is going back in the box for another day. Gotta start on other things…. Thank You, Bill Lane Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987 See my finished models at: http://www.lanestrains.com Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! See my layout progress at: http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm Custom Train Parts Design http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded (Trading is MUCH preferred) http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls ***Join the PRR T&HS*** The other members are not ALL like me! http://www.prrths.com http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
