Stus-List (no subject)
The boat I have shared with a friend is being sold. How do I unfriend from this list. It has been great but time to move on. Frank Schenk___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 1973 30-1 For Sale in WA
In the DFW area that boat would sell for about $9,000 however it would not be in that good condition. Frank On Thursday, October 12, 2017 11:48 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-Listwrote: Here’s a nice-looking 1973 30-1 for sale in Washington state: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C%26C-30-MK-I-Sloop-3069749/Gig-Harbor/WA/United-States#.WeBDLa2ZO8U She has the same cockpit arrangement as Grenadine - boom-end sheeting, traveller on transom, tiller steering. Looks like she’s had some customizations. The price would seem to reflect it. I don’t know anything about this boat other than what’s in the listing; just happened to notice it on the web tonight. Cheers, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search
Marek, I would never use a thong for a fuel filter. It makes women angry. :) Frank On Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:47 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-Listwrote: #yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 -- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv8694052617 I had one like that and also the $5 more version, the Maxximum. Each lasted about 3 times. They must ave been the Monday morning production. The only good thong was that they all failed quickly enough to get the refund. MarekFrom: CnC-List on behalf of Persuasion37 via CnC-List Sent: September 10, 2017 12:23 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Persuasion37 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search Merek I'm trying to remember there I bought my last one. I think it was either Canadian Tire or Princess Auto. I bought the cheap ones and they don't last long. Although the one I bought I consider it cheap as it was in the 20-25 dollar range. I think this is the one I've had for a few years. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-drill-pump-kit-0543802p.html#srp MikePERSUASION C 37 K/CBLong Sault On Sep 9, 2017, at 9:46 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: #yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 -- _filtered #yiv8694052617 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8694052617 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 p.yiv8694052617MsoNormal, #yiv8694052617 li.yiv8694052617MsoNormal, #yiv8694052617 div.yiv8694052617MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv8694052617 a:link, #yiv8694052617 span.yiv8694052617MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8694052617 a:visited, #yiv8694052617 span.yiv8694052617MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8694052617 .yiv8694052617MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv8694052617 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv8694052617 div.yiv8694052617WordSection1 {}#yiv8694052617 Maybe I am unlucky, but I never had any of these pumps last longer than a couple-three times. Marek Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 21:39 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Persuasion37 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search Denis I use a cheap transfer pump operated by a drill. Pumps 5 gals in a couple of minutes. No more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills. Can pump a jerry can dry, less than a tbsp. Now you purist hush. I'm pumping diesel. Been doing it for 4 years. MikePERSUASIONC 37 K/CBLong Sault > On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit
I also countersink all screw and bolt holes so the caulking can make a better seal. Frank On Friday, September 8, 2017 3:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-Listwrote: I put everything back with butyl tape. You do have to seal the penetrations of the screws. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them back?___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit
Good question. I always put some caulking to prevent any moisture from seeping through the screw holes. Frank On Thursday, September 7, 2017 5:56 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-Listwrote: Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them back?___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
I am not recommending learning on a sailboard but it teaches you how to adjust a sail. Only on a sailboard do you feel the pressure of the wind on a sail and how you have to adjust for the direction of the wind. Like I said before, I have sailed large and small and enjoyed them all. What a thrill it would be to steer a large ship. Frank On Wednesday, August 30, 2017 5:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-Listwrote: Actually, I don't find windsurfing as a learning tool for sailing. Totally different technique. It is like snowboarding and skiing- both are done on snow, but one skill does not translate to the other. Dinghy, on the other hand, will teach you a lot. Some older people (and I don't mean old) may find them uncomfortable or challenging, but you can learn much easier the basic techniques of sail trimming and general sailing. Of course, this would not help with big boat handling. You need to learn how to dock, moor, anchor, do a MOB, stop, or what a prop walk is. Even the proper technique of hoisting sails. That you need to learn on a big (bigger?) boat. Marek Original message From: John Irvin via CnC-List Date: 8/29/17 21:44 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Irvin Subject: Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat Very good points. Windsurfing will substitute nicely for mall boat sailing. sailing schools that I have heard of start novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's or J24's. NeilFoxfire C 32Rock Hall, MD Neil Andersen 20691 Jamieson Rd Rock Hall, MD 21661 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
I learned to sail in a Columbia 25 MKII. It was easy because it was forgiving. My sailboard was a lot more difficult because I had to react quickly. I do not think it makes much difference in how you learn IF YOU LEARN. I have sailed boats as small as a Sunfish and as large as a 30 foot Catalina. I enjoy all of them. Frank On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-Listwrote: Seems to be interest in this topic. I'm a strange one. I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat. I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a Lido (Still have the Lido). Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a small boat. Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat. Wave effects are amplified. You just "feel" the boat so much better. Plus, dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail. Good fun! Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies. We have Mallory Cup winners, regional winners, etc. They all swear by learning in dinghies. Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats. On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, unstable dinghies. Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff sailboats. :) If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning. If you want to improve your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Storm Harvey
The movement of this storm is not very predictable. It will be several more days until a path can be determined. Frank On Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-Listwrote: Dennis, you're rightif this prediction is true, Harvey will end up directly over top of us in Louisville, KY by next Friday-Saturday...! Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Fri, Aug 25, 2017 7:57 pm Subject: Stus-List Storm Harvey Interesting. Go here: https://www.windy.com/?29.310,-94.285,7 Click the "Play" arrow at the bottom. Dennis C.___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
Most water pumps can be rebuilt. I would guess that all you need is a new seal. Surely any good mechanic could replace it if they have the right equipment. Frank On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:46 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-Listwrote: I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my Yanmar 3GMF. It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement! Are there reasonable alternatives? Thanks Matthew Schlanger The Office C 35 MKIII ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???
I have heard that the best way to dry an electrical item is to put it in an oven at low heat. I have a drill motor like yours that I bought on sale at Ace hardware. BTW, I assume you still have a second battery so if you can salvage the motor you are not at a total loss. Frank On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:58 AM, robert via CnC-Listwrote: Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of salt water. It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage. Is it a 'lost cause'? Should I have just left it on the bottom? Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid
A power washer and bleach generally does the job if you let the bleach soak in. Frank On Thursday, April 27, 2017 12:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-Listwrote: I'm trying to clean an old beach cat I've had in my back yard for, well, for a "while". It has lichen growing on it. What a chore. It's headed for Craigslist. Anyway, it is badly stained. I'll mix up some oxalic acid to remove most of the stains. Hopefully the rest will polish out with some Aquabuff 2000 and a DA polisher. Re the recent discussion on wood bleach, etc. Here's another source for oxalic acid if you want "marine" stuff. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63896 Otherwise, a hardware store should have it. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors
Send the injectors to a diesel repair shop. They know what they are doing. Frank On Friday, March 31, 2017 9:06 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-Listwrote: Greetings all. The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping. I'm planning to extract and clean it or replace it. Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. Brent Driedger 27-5 Wild Rover Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
Past experience makes me think that it is a matter of luck. I assume you know to fill the fuel bowl after inserting the filter. Turn on the ignition switch to start the electric pump and open the bleed screw on the top of the filter. I do not recall if there was another bleed valve at the mechanical pump. The last bleed point is at the injectors. After this, with luck, the engine should start. Frank On Thursday, March 30, 2017 7:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-Listwrote: I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The manual says it has a continuous bleed system. What it doesn’t say is what that means. Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws? If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system. I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters. Thanks- Dave Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+
Bruce, Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way. Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip. Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape. Frank On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-Listwrote: I'm guessing it's wishful thinking. The windows "work" significantly when the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long. My previous owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success. That being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO used. GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello again everyone, Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows. I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for now. While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak. Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this? Should I simply attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply a bead of Dow 795? Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside? Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Battery tester
I like the KISS method. Use a multimeter to check the battery when fully charged. It should be about 12.5 volts. Check it when the engine is running and it should be 13.5 volts or higher. If the battery cannot be recharged to 12.5 volts, it is probably bad. That is when you pull it out and take it to a battery store. This has worked for me for more years than most of you guys have been alive,. Frank On Monday, October 3, 2016 1:21 PM, David Knecht via CnC-Listwrote: I would like to be able to monitor the health of my batteries without having to haul them off the boat. I looked at Amazon and found many battery testers (load and conductance) from $15 to $250. Has anyone tried any of these devices and have any suggestions on what to buy or not to buy? Dave Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale
Ryan, It is called "Caveat Emptor" or let the buyer beware. I will now shut up and let you guys get back to business. FrankC 29 On Thursday, September 1, 2016 10:58 AM, Ryan Doylewrote: Thanks Frank. I'm sorry to hear about that Columbia. If I sold this boat to someone who let her go like that I'd be heartbroken. I had two showings last weekend - one was a couple who knew their way around the boat, the second were two people who I think stumbled down the dock from a bar up the street. They clearly had no idea what they were looking at! Much to my wife's chagrin I do a lot of research I pretty much read up on sailboats and look at listings during every ounce of my free time. And thanks for the warnings about Craigslist. I get scam calls all the time, but I'm pretty good at figuring out who's legit. I've also got her on Boat Trader. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 1, 2016, at 11:47 AM, Franklin Schenk wrote: You should have no problem selling your boat at that price. I hope you find a buyer who will appreciate all you have done. My past experience has shown that many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant. I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for $2700 which was far below the average price of $4000. It was in very good condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor. I felt I had my monies worth after 38 years. After 4 years and three other owners it sold for $2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor. I would only pay about $1000 for a boat in that condition. The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never checked the price of a similar boat. Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do your homework before buying or selling a boat. FrankC 29 On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote: Hey All, The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer. Most likely a C landfall 38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget. Our max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30. Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy the same boats... ;) My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - many of which I posted about on here. I have her listed on Craigslist for $8450 - I know that's cheap. This is why - Her interior was renovated (very nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now.. We love her huge galley. We sail her regularly on weekends. She's a great boat - stiff as all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great. She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ. If she doesn't sell by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the Sheepshead Bay Yacht club. I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would like to see her. The listing: https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html Recent upgrades: -Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge duplex)-New bottom paint spring 2016-Hull paint spring 2016-Deck and grip paint summer 2016-Water pump rebuilt spring 2016-Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve installed spring 2016-Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 -New fuel tank straps, ground, and fill ground-New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main breaker panel - winter 2015-2016-Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 2016-All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015-New Raymarine i40 depth finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016-New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS chartplotter - April 2016-New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 2016-New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016-New low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016-New engine blower fan and hose - March 2016-New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016-New fuel tank vent hose - Nov 2015-New interior ventilation fans - April 2016-New main bilge pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016-New forward switched Rule 500gph electric bilge pump for forward bilge - April 2016-New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 2015-New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016 Ryan Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale
Mike, The second owner was a friend of the guy I sold it to and he knew that it was worth $1000 or more. After removing the motor he gave the boat to a guy who ran a dog rescue organization. It was now a tax write off so he made money off of a free gift. The dog guy is a real crook who sell boats to people who cannot afford them. He then takes them back when they cannot keep up the payment. Yes, there are crooks out there in the boat buying and selling business. Frank On Thursday, September 1, 2016 11:57 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: #yiv1568516186 #yiv1568516186 -- _filtered #yiv1568516186 {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1568516186 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1568516186 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1568516186 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv1568516186 #yiv1568516186 p.yiv1568516186MsoNormal, #yiv1568516186 li.yiv1568516186MsoNormal, #yiv1568516186 div.yiv1568516186MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv1568516186 a:link, #yiv1568516186 span.yiv1568516186MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1568516186 a:visited, #yiv1568516186 span.yiv1568516186MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1568516186 span.yiv1568516186EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv1568516186 .yiv1568516186MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv1568516186 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1568516186 div.yiv1568516186WordSection1 {}#yiv1568516186 Frank Obviously somebody had no idea what a new 9.8hp electric start motor costs (over $2700) and ruined it. Possibly they did know and sold it separately and then figure they can double their money by also selling the boat Sad to see people destroy a loved one … Mike Persistence Halifax, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2016 12:47 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Franklin Schenk; Ryan Doyle Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale You should have no problem selling your boat at that price. I hope you find a buyer who will appreciate all you have done. My past experience has shown that many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant. I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for $2700 which was far below the average price of $4000. It was in very good condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor. I felt I had my monies worth after 38 years. After 4 years and three other owners it sold for $2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor. I would only pay about $1000 for a boat in that condition. The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never checked the price of a similar boat. Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do your homework before buying or selling a boat. Frank C 29 On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hey All, The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer. Most likely a C landfall 38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget. Our max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30. Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy the same boats... ;) My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - many of which I posted about on here. I have her listed on Craigslist for $8450 - I know that's cheap. This is why - Her interior was renovated (very nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now.. We love her huge galley. We sail her regularly on weekends. She's a great boat - stiff as all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great. She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ. If she doesn't sell by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the Sheepshead Bay Yacht club. I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would like to see her. The listing: https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html Recent upgrades: -Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge duplex) -New bottom paint spring 2016 -Hull paint spring 2016 -Deck and grip paint summer 2016 -Water pump rebuilt spring 2016 -Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve installed spring 2016 -Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy
Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale
You should have no problem selling your boat at that price. I hope you find a buyer who will appreciate all you have done. My past experience has shown that many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant. I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for $2700 which was far below the average price of $4000. It was in very good condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor. I felt I had my monies worth after 38 years. After 4 years and three other owners it sold for $2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor. I would only pay about $1000 for a boat in that condition. The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never checked the price of a similar boat. Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do your homework before buying or selling a boat. FrankC 29 On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-Listwrote: Hey All, The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer. Most likely a C landfall 38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget. Our max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30. Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy the same boats... ;) My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - many of which I posted about on here. I have her listed on Craigslist for $8450 - I know that's cheap. This is why - Her interior was renovated (very nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now.. We love her huge galley. We sail her regularly on weekends. She's a great boat - stiff as all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great. She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ. If she doesn't sell by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the Sheepshead Bay Yacht club. I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would like to see her. The listing: https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html Recent upgrades: -Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge duplex)-New bottom paint spring 2016-Hull paint spring 2016-Deck and grip paint summer 2016-Water pump rebuilt spring 2016-Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve installed spring 2016-Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 -New fuel tank straps, ground, and fill ground-New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main breaker panel - winter 2015-2016-Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 2016-All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015-New Raymarine i40 depth finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016-New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS chartplotter - April 2016-New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 2016-New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016-New low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016-New engine blower fan and hose - March 2016-New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016-New fuel tank vent hose - Nov 2015-New interior ventilation fans - April 2016-New main bilge pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016-New forward switched Rule 500gph electric bilge pump for forward bilge - April 2016-New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 2015-New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016 Ryan Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?
I recently borrowed an old Cruiseair unit from a friend. It needs a shot of Freon but works reasonably well. I suggest that you contact them at cruiseair.com for new models. Frank On Friday, August 19, 2016 11:08 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-Listwrote: Listers, We’ve had some really hot days up here in the Northeast and the Admiral is thinking air conditioning. I don’t really want to go through the expense of installing a marine air conditioner and through-hull valves, but I have been hearing stories of boaters putting one of those portable AC units on board with the exhaust hose going out through a hatch. I would probably stick with an 7,000-8,000 BTU using drawing 7-9 amps. The specs say that can cool 250 square feet, which I think would make the inside of a boat cabin quite comfortable. Obviously would only be used during shore power or while the engine is running (I have a high-amp alternator and a great inverter on board). Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak
As a lazy person I try the easy things first like tightening the screws. What is the spacing of the screws? 6 to 8 inches is about right. Frank On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-Listwrote: Our first season with a 1978 C 34-1. The PO re-did the windows using plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the tube on the boat) and screws. One window has a slight leak that seems to come in from the top of the plexi where water can collect. I'd like to do a quick fix for the rest of the cursing season, then a more involved longer term solution (if required) when the season is over. Any tips? Thanks, Jeremy ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Sail Cover
Thanks Jeffrey but that looks like a lot of work for me to do on a friends boat. When I was in High School a teacher said if you are looking for an easy way to do a job give the task to a lazy guy. LOL On Monday, August 1, 2016 4:16 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: A loop of rope on one side and a rope with a chineese button knot in it would work. That way you could just butten it up. Here's a youtube of the knot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQH2FnHoByc On 8/1/2016 5:58 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List wrote: My friend has a sail cover with eyelets on each side in lieu of what I call twist snaps. He presently uses carabiner clips which take extra time to attach. My thought was to thread a line from eyelet to eyelet as this would be much faster. Any ideas would be appreciated. Frank C 29 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Boat_SigCheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C 30 Armdale Y.C. Halifax ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Sail Cover
My friend has a sail cover with eyelets on each side in lieu of what I call twist snaps. He presently uses carabiner clips which take extra time to attach. My thought was to thread a line from eyelet to eyelet as this would be much faster. Any ideas would be appreciated. FrankC 29 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
I think what is happening is that either a shroud or a stay has hit resonant frequency. I think that either tightening or loosing it will eliminate the noise. Resonant frequency is the natural frequency of an object. This happens to my wife when she gets mad at me and is wound up tight. FrankC 29 On Monday, July 25, 2016 3:16 PM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-Listwrote: Hello fellow seers, I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but does not go away. Cheers, Christian Tirtirau C 37 Northern Light ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Shouldn't there be some kind of Wally Award?
I agree. We can learn a lot from this because sites like this cover many problems. It also makes us closer to the person doing the job. We also can laugh at their mistakes and remember when we did the same thing. FrankC 29 On Monday, July 25, 2016 12:44 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-Listwrote: Hi All, I went to Dave’s Windstar site, and I think we need some kind of Wally Award for folks, not only fixing up these good old boats, but documenting and sharing their process. I know, I know, he’s not starting with a hole in the water, but let’s at least give him a little encouragement, and lots of thanks.This is, after all what,makes this list so great, and helps us all keep sailing. . . 2 cents, Lees/v SimplicityA 1974 C 35-II project.As Gary says, West of Ballard. On Jul 24, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List wrote: http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery monitor, revised grounding etc. Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lighting upgrades to finish plus installation of Calframo fans and .. well the fridge and maybe an automatic bilge pump. So, nearly done! Other work also documented and posted. Dave 33-2 Windstar. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor
Mike and David When I worked at Bell Helicopter as a project engineer I spent time at the Yuma Proving Grounds doing weapon's testing. Since we were off site, union rules did not apply. I was able to work with the technicians and they taught me a few simple rules. First jiggle the connector and then check the ground wire. I use a backpack when I go to the lake and generally carry my multimeter with me. FrankC 29 On Saturday, July 23, 2016 10:10 AM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: #yiv5861398800 #yiv5861398800 --.yiv5861398800hmmessage P{margin:0px;padding:0px;}#yiv5861398800 body.yiv5861398800hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}#yiv5861398800 In my world...it seems that all electrical problems are usually ground related... David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2016 10:25:40 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: persuasio...@gmail.com Frank When my gauge stop working it was only a loose ground. MikePERSUASION C 37 K/CBLong Sault On Jul 22, 2016, at 8:45 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is working properly? The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half full. Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor
Thanks. I know how to read a multmeter. Now all I need is for the temperature to drop below 100 degrees so I don't die from the heat. FrankC 29 On Friday, July 22, 2016 10:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: The fuel level sender is just a variable resistor. There should be 1 wires going to the sender. The resistance is that felt from the sense wire to ground. As the level changes the voltage dropped across this resistance changes and in turn is registered on the gauge. The easy way to check the sender is to measure the resistance from the sense wire to ground. Be careful not to accidentally measure the resistance of the 12v supply. I seem to remember that the typical moeller float senders are 300 ohm? So you should see between 30 and 300 ohms and most likely at half full something close to 150 ohms.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 22, 2016 8:47 PM, "Franklin Schenk via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is working properly? The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half full. Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor
Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is working properly? The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half full. Frank___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Dull red hull
I bought a Columbia 26 MKII in 1974 and moved it to the Corinthian Yacht Club. In 1976 I moved it to Lake Grapevine because it was closer to where I live in Bedford. I sold my boat in 2012 because the slip fees went up every year. Since then I have sailed with the American Airlines Sailing Club and several other people. I teamed up in January of this year with the guy who owns the C/C 29. He pays the slip fee and I do most of the repairs for him. Actually the boat is a mess/wreck due to water leakage over many years. Fortunately, I am still reasonably healthy at 82 and have about 65 years experience on boats of all kinds. I hope to keep sailing for another 10 years as long as someone will share their boat. Sorry to rant on but not much on TV except the Republican Convention and I do not argue politics. Frank On Thursday, July 21, 2016 3:20 PM, schiller via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Frank, Where do you have your boat? My previous boat (Southcoast 23) was in Lake Lewisville at Dallas Corinthian Yacht Club. That was a long time ago (before Lake Ray Roberts). We lived in the Colony. Neil Schiller 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (C 35, Mark I) White Lake, Michigan WLYC On 7/21/2016 2:36 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List wrote: Thanks for the detailed response. It sounds like a lot of work so I will wait until October when the temperature drops to a comfortable level. Just now it is very hot in the DFW area. I did a few minor repairs on the boat this morning and had to drink two bottles of water and one beer to get hydrated again. BTW, I appreciate everyone's advice. Frank On Thursday, July 21, 2016 9:15 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Frank, I tried several things and my best result was take all oxidation with a high speed polisher with wool pads / 3M super duty, wet sand it with 1500-2000 grit paper and lots of water then buff with a high speed polisher with wool pads, 3M Finesse-it compound or Meguire's fine compound. And finish with 3 coats of Meguire's Carnauba wax. That's how the pros that charge you $1,200 bucks do it. It was a lot of work but the 25 year old boat looked better than new. See picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/26529592414/ On It's been 3 years and very little wax, just a light coat at the dock once a year or so and it still looks great. The key here is that the super shine is not artificially created by the wax, the gelcoat itself is just that smooth. Nothing sticks to it. Zebra stripes are a spritz of Starbrite cleaner and light wipe away, scuffs disappear with a touch of cleaner wax. You don't' have to spend a fortune on the polisher either. I got the one shown on the link for 49 bucks it has slow start and digital speed control which is more just a gadget, you can control the speed in a very fine way and it keeps constant RPM. I figured if it lasts long enough to do the boat it paid for itself compared to paying somebody to do it. I'm sure it's still good for several boats. If you can get someone to show you how to use it that's even better. If I lived closer I'd let you borrow it. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Digital-Variable-Speed-Polisher-69696.html I kind of went overboard and bought a dual action polisher as well for the finishing buff and apply / buff the wax. I thought it was finer for that mirror finish (Plus it's awesome to buff the ports): http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html Good Luck, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA Jul 20, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: My friend has a C with a red hull. I would like to polish it with something to bring back the original color. Many years ago I could buy a car polish that would do the job. I assume that there are new products available today. Any suggestions? Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our memb
Re: Stus-List Dull red hull
Thanks for the detailed response. It sounds like a lot of work so I will wait until October when the temperature drops to a comfortable level. Just now it is very hot in the DFW area. I did a few minor repairs on the boat this morning and had to drink two bottles of water and one beer to get hydrated again. BTW, I appreciate everyone's advice. Frank On Thursday, July 21, 2016 9:15 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hi Frank, I tried several things and my best result was takeall oxidation with a high speed polisher with wool pads / 3M super duty,wet sand it with 1500-2000 grit paper and lots of water then buff witha high speed polisher with wool pads, 3M Finesse-it compound or Meguire'sfine compound. And finish with 3 coats of Meguire's Carnauba wax. That'show the pros that charge you $1,200 bucks do it. It was a lot of work butthe 25 year old boat looked better than new. See picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/26529592414/ On It's been 3 years and very little wax, just a lightcoat at the dock once a year or so and it still looks great. The key hereis that the super shine is not artificially created by the wax, the gelcoatitself is just that smooth. Nothing sticks to it. Zebra stripes area spritz of Starbrite cleaner and light wipe away, scuffs disappear witha touch of cleaner wax. You don't' have to spend a fortune on the polishereither. I got the one shown on the link for 49 bucks it has slow startand digital speed control which is more just a gadget, you can controlthe speed in a very fine way and it keeps constant RPM. I figured if itlasts long enough to do the boat it paid for itself compared to payingsomebody to do it. I'm sure it's still good for several boats. Ifyou can get someone to show you how to use it that's even better. IfI lived closer I'd let you borrow it. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Digital-Variable-Speed-Polisher-69696.html I kind of went overboard and bought a dual actionpolisher as well for the finishing buff and apply / buff the wax.I thought it was finer for that mirror finish (Plus it's awesome to buffthe ports): http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html Good Luck, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA Jul 20, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>wrote: My friend has a C with a red hull. I would like topolish it with something to bring back the original color. Many yearsago I could buy a car polish that would do the job. I assume thatthere are new products available today. Any suggestions? Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Dull red hull
My friend has a C with a red hull. I would like to polish it with something to bring back the original color. Many years ago I could buy a car polish that would do the job. I assume that there are new products available today. Any suggestions? Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine
Chuck,Now that you mention it the thing that bothers me the most is the noise of the engine running that fast while in the slip. I do not know where he got that idea except that he worked for the railroad. Of course the diesel engines in the locomotives are a little larger than the one in his boat. I doubt that they were run at a high RPM when sitting still in the yard. Frank On Monday, June 20, 2016 2:35 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: #yiv5359827397 #yiv5359827397 -- _filtered #yiv5359827397 {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv5359827397 #yiv5359827397 p.yiv5359827397MsoNormal, #yiv5359827397 li.yiv5359827397MsoNormal, #yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5359827397 a:link, #yiv5359827397 span.yiv5359827397MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5359827397 a:visited, #yiv5359827397 span.yiv5359827397MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5359827397 p.yiv5359827397msonormal0, #yiv5359827397 li.yiv5359827397msonormal0, #yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5359827397 span.yiv5359827397EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;}#yiv5359827397 .yiv5359827397MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397WordSection1 {}#yiv5359827397 Frank,If your friend is tied up in a slip and putting his engine in gear at ½ throttle for 5 or more minutes, he better put some chafe protection on oversized dock lines along with some really robust bumpers, otherwise he may be calling am insurance agent rather than a diesel mechanic. I also wouldn’t want the adjacent slip that has to listen to that engine churning away each time he comes down to the boat. At diesel class at Annapolis School of Seamanship, the instructor said it was more important to run the diesel for a longer period of time (like ½ hour or more), even at lower RPMs to let the engine get up to full operating temps than to run it for 5-10 minutes to get the boat out of the slip and the harbor and then shutting off the engine immediately when the sails go up. My boat is on a mooring, so when I go out to the boat, I’ll start up the engine while I’m prepping the boat for sailing, which also gives the batteries a bit of a booster charge before heading out. I have to wait for a draw bridge before I get to open water, so 30 minutes of powerboating isn’t a big inconvenience, more like a necessity for me.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 20, 2016 2:41 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comun Cc: Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net> Subject: Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine I forgot to mention if it should be in gear. 850 to 900 is about the same as the normal idle speed on a car so that sounds about right. On Monday, June 20, 2016 10:42 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: The 3GM manual: 1) Warm up the engine for more than 5 minutes. Because lube oil does not reach all themoving parts as soon as the engine is started.Operate the engine at around 850-900 rpm for at least five minutes. On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle speed. When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half throttle. None of the other sailors appear to do this. Unfortunately many do not give the engine a chance to warm up at all. I am open to suggestions and the reason for what you are doing. Frankc/c 29 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine
I forgot to mention if it should be in gear. 850 to 900 is about the same as the normal idle speed on a car so that sounds about right. On Monday, June 20, 2016 10:42 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: The 3GM manual: 1) Warm up the engine for more than 5 minutes. Because lube oil does not reach all themoving parts as soon as the engine is started.Operate the engine at around 850-900 rpm for at least five minutes. On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle speed. When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half throttle. None of the other sailors appear to do this. Unfortunately many do not give the engine a chance to warm up at all. I am open to suggestions and the reason for what you are doing. Frankc/c 29 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Warm up diesel engine
A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle speed. When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half throttle. None of the other sailors appear to do this. Unfortunately many do not give the engine a chance to warm up at all. I am open to suggestions and the reason for what you are doing. Frankc/c 29___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension
I have used the following technique on many different boats without using a Loos gage. First, I check that the mast is straight athwartship (sideways) and that I have the desired rake which is different for each boat. I tighten the turnbuckles on the fore and aft stays first. I check the tension by pulling on them at about chest height. The stays should move no more than about one inch. The same applies to the upper shrouds. On boats that have only one lower, I tighten them until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches. On boats that have two lowers, I tighten the forward lowers until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches. On the aft lowers I use about 2 inches. The next step is to check the tension out under sail. First I make sure that the mast is straight. This will tell me if the lower shrouds are correct. There may be some slop on the downwind side depending on the wind speed. Adjusting rake is another procedure depending on the weather helm of the boat. Frank On Monday, May 9, 2016 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-Listwrote: Chris, I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is as follows. With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have approximately 9 inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main halyard. Forestay first, then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the upper shrouds to hand tight and using the main halyard on the toe rails to align the masthead. I then add two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead alignment again. Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to ensure straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast. Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem reach, look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play tightening the leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns. Tack boat. Tighten leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous tack. And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments. You'll want the slop out of the leeward shrouds. Sounds like a long process but it really isn't. Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even with a Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments. Bob Caughran Beemer, 29MKII, 309 Sent from my iPhone > On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List wrote: > > > I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are > needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place? > > Sent from my iPhone >>> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Diesel question
I agree on the black smoke due to poor combustion of the diesel fuel. However, I doubt that the lubrication oil would enter the combustion chamber unless the rings are badly worn. With only a few hundred hours on the engine they should be as good as new. I once had an oil change and the guy put in twice the proper amount of oil. I went on a trip the next day and drove about 800 miles before I checked the oil level. There was no damage to the engine. Frank On Sunday, May 1, 2016 10:29 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-Listwrote: Tom, One thing you might try is to is to see what type of smoke you're getting. Burning lubricating oil tends to be blue/white, which indicates your might have excess oil splashed up from the crankcase to the cylinder walls. Some splash is normal, that's the way the rings are lubricated, but if the oil level is too high you could get burning. If it's black smoke, it indicates poor combustion and unburned fuel, which can happen when a diesel is overloaded, or some other kind of fuel injection issue. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/1/2016 9:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: > Alera is my second C, but my first diesel. My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4. > > I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like > once a season. Last summer I learned the error of my ways. But I over > compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine. > > Our engine only had 489 hours and was in excellent condition. I just changed > the oil today, but before that we did a sail. I notice at at cripuising RPS > she was smoking pretty bad. > > Is this from overfilling or you you all think I did some real damage? > > Minor error or major disaster... > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Diesel question
Only time will tell. If it starts using a lot of oil you know that there is damage to the engine. I would check the oil each time you go out to see if it is burning oil. If the oil level does not change you were just burning off the excess oil. BTW, how much did you over fill on the oil? Frank On Sunday, May 1, 2016 8:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-Listwrote: Alera is my second C, but my first diesel. My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4. I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like once a season. Last summer I learned the error of my ways. But I over compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine. Our engine only had 489 hours and was in excellent condition. I just changed the oil today, but before that we did a sail. I notice at at cripuising RPS she was smoking pretty bad. Is this from overfilling or you you all think I did some real damage? Minor error or major disaster... Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard
They are not the same. I think that one is black and the other is grey. :) BTW, I believe that Tohatsu also makes some of the small Mercury outboards. On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:46 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-Listwrote: If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu and Nissan Marine are the same motor. I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable for several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll have no worries with the Tohatsu. Brian '80 Landfall 38 NinaOn Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" wrote: Hello, I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8. Does anybody have any experience with these? Also, to save weight I was considering the manual tilt. I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower? Mark McMenamy C 25 "Icicle" Fort Pierce FL ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal
It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking. I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal. I cut out a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round. Any suggestions? Frank___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair
Fortunately, I have a lot of friends including a guy familiar with the West System. He has done some extensive work on damaged boats. I have tempted him with a few beers to look at the boat. Although I have worked on boats as a hobby for about 65 years I never got involved in doing any repairs with epoxy. Right now I am picking as many brains as I can to gain a little knowledge. Frank On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 2:17 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-Listwrote: #yiv4003843273 P {MARGIN-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN-TOP:0px;}We repaired a similar bulkhead issue on Calypso by cutting out the damaged section. The section was approx. 12" x 18". We replaced the bulkhead section with similar grade plywood bonded in place with epoxy then adding glass cloth and epoxy over the seams. We replaced the failed tabbing with new. If you have a very small area immediately next to the tabbing a less invasive repair might be possible following your Plan A. If you have a oscillating tool (Feinmaster etc.) working in confined spaces is easier. The plunge cut blades allow for some "micro" surgery. Have you visited the West System's web site? They have some excellent boat repair guides that highlight use of their epoxy products. For a pour in place repair adding some chopped glass fibers or similar strength building filler will reduce the epoxy fill's chances of cracking if it flexes. MartinCalypso1971 C 43SeattleFrom: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Eugene Fodor via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 10:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eugene Fodor Subject: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair The base of the bulkhead on the C 29 Mk II I'm in escrow on has some soft wood and the tabbing has separated. This is the bulkhead just aft of the head that the table is mounted on. Does anyone have experience with repairing this and any recommendations. My plan is to sand/grind out the existing wood and build it up with epoxy and then redo the tabbing. Any recommendations or links on info for similiar repairs would be much appreciated. Thank in advance, Gene ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads
Using a longer chain plate was my first thought. It may be less work but could be expensive. Of course having the mast collapse would be even more expensive. Frank On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 2:24 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: #yiv3162760145 P {MARGIN-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN-TOP:0px;}Any time the words "chain plate bulkhead" and "severe decay" are used together I recommend replacing the bulkhead over a pour in place attempt to make it strong again. If it is not possible to remove and replace the wood around the chain plate I have seen a suitably sized stainless steel plate the spreads the chain plate loads out into solid wood used. MartinCalypso1971 C 43SeattleFrom: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 11:27 AM To: Rick Brass via CnC-List Cc: Franklin Schenk Subject: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads I am helping a friend repair the chain plate bulkheads on a 29 MKII. Water has leaked for many years down the chain plates into the bulkheads. By taping on the bulkheads with a hammer I can tell that the port side has severe decay almost down to the two lower bolts on the chain plate. I talked to a professional boat repair guy and he suggested that I pour epoxy into the top of the bulkhead. I doubt that the epoxy will seep down very far. My thoughts were to drill a few holes into the side of the bulkhead and pump in the epoxy. I am open to any suggestions. Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Fw: Chain plate bulkheads
On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 1:27 PM, Franklin Schenkwrote: I am helping a friend repair the chain plate bulkheads on a 29 MKII. Water has leaked for many years down the chain plates into the bulkheads. By taping on the bulkheads with a hammer I can tell that the port side has severe decay almost down to the two lower bolts on the chain plate. I talked to a professional boat repair guy and he suggested that I pour epoxy into the top of the bulkhead. I doubt that the epoxy will seep down very far. My thoughts were to drill a few holes into the side of the bulkhead and pump in the epoxy. I am open to any suggestions. Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Remove silicone
Thanks. I was told that nothing would remove silicone but apparently there are several products that will do the job. Now all I need is someone to come to North Texas and do it for me. LOL Frank Schenk On Sunday, April 3, 2016 6:38 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: <http://www.amazon.com/3M-38984-Specialty-Adhesive-Remover/dp/B0054S5OOU/ref=pd_sbs_328_2?ie=UTF8=41Ax0877luL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=1B0ST8WZAVJX47BMSDKR> Bill Bina On 4/2/2016 10:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: #yiv147374 #yiv147374 -- _filtered #yiv147374 {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv147374 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv147374 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv147374 #yiv147374 p.yiv147374MsoNormal, #yiv147374 li.yiv147374MsoNormal, #yiv147374 div.yiv147374MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv147374 a:link, #yiv147374 span.yiv147374MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv147374 a:visited, #yiv147374 span.yiv147374MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv147374 span.yiv147374EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv147374 .yiv147374MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv147374 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv147374 div.yiv147374WordSection1 {}#yiv147374 3M makes a product that is specifically designed to remove silicone. Almost nothing else will do it. Unfortunately I’ve used up my supply and can’t recall the product name. I learned about the stuff when rebuilding my A hatches, using Sika 295 as the adhesive. The SIKA won’t properly adhere to the hatch frame if there is any silicone residue (which there was, thanks to the PO). Perhaps the folks at Sika can tell you the name of the product. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 4:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Franklin Schenk mailto:fdsch...@flash.net Subject: Stus-List Remove silicone I am trying to reseal the windows on a C 29. The previous owner used Silicone and I would like to remove it and use the butyl tape. I read that carburetor cleaner works better than acetone. I am open to any suggestions. The spacing on the machine screws also appear to be very large. I was thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 6 inches apart. Frank ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!