EV digest 4828
EV Digest 4828 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Liquid cooling and Zillas by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Twist-lock connectors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: (Another) Zilla question by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Battery Beach Burnout by Shawn Waggoner [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Exide Floodeds vs AGM by Pestka, Dennis J [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Battery Beach Burnout by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Twist-lock connectors by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by David [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Liquid cooling for Zilla by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Pump for Zilla cooling by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: (Another) Zilla question by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi again EVeryone, A few more comments on the liquid cooling topic: Is it true that the Zilla's have over temp detection? If they do, perhaps you could hook that up to an idiot light. This would seem to be the ideal place to monitor the effectiveness of your cooling right? Yes, the Zilla has a battery indicator light and a check engine light. The check engine light will begin blinking as the Zilla cuts back. As per the Zilla manual, The controller will maintain full output motor current up to 55 degrees C heatsink temperature. Above that, current drops back to 75% at 80 degrees C and then rapidly declines to nothing at 100 degrees C. Are the fittings your standard nylon 1/4 MNPT -- 3/8 barbed fittings? Or are they something special to make them intentionally fragile? Otmar would be the authority on this, but as far as I can tell, they are just standard 3/8 barbed fittings. They really aren't *that* fragile. I did some good yanking on them without breakage (although I would suggest treating them gently to avoid having to repair them). The Bosch pump draws under an amp. Beautiful. I don't remember who mentioned it, but someone had concerns about the reservoir I'm using (something about bubbles). Yes, I have been getting bubbles in the system. I spent the evening figuring out what was causing it. I think I've nailed it down, and it shouldn't be an issue if the reservoir is installed in a certain configuration. At first, I was skeptical of the horizontal mounting reservoir. But I think others will find it convenient to install (of course there will be exceptions, in which case it can be installed vertically). Once again, thanks to all for the great comments. -Ryan -- - EV Source http://www.evsource.com - Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq All at the best prices available! E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I just did this exact modification to my bandsaw. Steve Ciciora gave me the VFD. I bought all the remaining odds and ends for about $60. Works fantastically. Steve bought the inverter on Ebay. Here is one listed for $0.99 ($13 SH) http://cgi.ebay.com/MITSUBISHI-INVERTER-MOTOR-CONTROL-FR-AO24-0-75K-TF_W0QQitemZ7553754844QQcategoryZ78192QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem This unit will run great on 240 volts single phase. You need to borrow a parameter unit to program the above VFD. I paid $35 for one, but you could shop around and get one much cheaper. You need about
EV digest 4829
EV Digest 4829 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Introduction by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) The big one. by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: Pump for Zilla cooling by Jamie Marshall \(GAMES\) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Why Le Car makes a great EV by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) VW Van conversion. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Introduction by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Twist-lock connectors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Steve Gaarder [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: The big one. by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: The big one. by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: The big one. by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) More DC Motor Questions - Thanks for your patience by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: need better layout under hood by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) RE: Backup generator or true hybrid by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Calvin King wrote: A few weeks back I purchased a '81 Jet Electrica... a 96V system using 16 - 6 volt Trojans (5 T605's and 11 T105's)... Curtis controller 1221-7401... KW charger model BC20. Welcome to the EV list! This is probably the best place to find help in fixing and maintaining your EV. Your EV is a good, basic, straightforward vehicle that should be simple to repair. For a first EV, it is probably a lot better than the recent auto company EVs, which are nearly impossible to fix. It turned out that I had a battery post melt. Bypassed the battery and drove home. I have since replaced the battery with a used one and double checked all the battery connections. That's a common problem, and a good solution. A simple way to find bad connections before they melt is to feel them after a drive. Any that get hot are failing! Lead is soft and distorts easily -- connections tend to loosen over time, especially if they get hot. Don't overtighten; this just crushes the lead -- torque them as the battery manufacturer recommends. Keep them clean; corrosion creates bad connections. Other hints: - use automotive post connections (not the 5/16 bolt stud that sticks out of the post) - use high quality tin plated copper terminals (not cheap automotive emergency repair terminals) - coat the terminals with vaseline to keep water and acid out - use belleville spring washers on the bolts, which will maintain pressure even as the lead cold-flows The meters are not connected and I have yet to figure out how to trace the disconnect and reconnect. It's important to have a working voltmeter and ammeter at the very least. Without them, you are almost certain to quickly destroy your batteries. If you don't already have one, get a good high-quality digital multimeter. Don't get some cheap off-brand one; accuracy and reliability are important! Wire this meter so you can monitor battery pack voltage while charging and driving. Your basic guidelines are: - Drive so you never pull the batteries under 1.75v/cell (84v for your 96v pack). This is easy with a fully charged pack, but as it runs down, you have to be more and more gentle with the throttle. This rule keeps you from over-discharging the pack. - Charge until the batteries reach 2.5v/cell (120v for your 96v pack) at a current of less than 5 amps. This rule keeps you from over- charging. As the batteries age, or when they
