Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Sensivity
2V AC down to .2 v. AC is 20 DB quieting John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tim Sawyer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 3:48 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Sensivity I'm getting about 0.35 for 12 db SINAD. But that looks about 10 db quieting to me. What I typically do is open the squelch with no signal and set the volume to 2 Vac then crank up the signal to 0.2 vac. Isn't that 20 db, or am I missing something? -- Tim :wq On Sep 6, 2010, at 10:46 AM, Eric Lemmon wrote: spec is 0.5 uV without a preamp and 0.25 uV with a preamp, when using the 20 dB quieting method, and 0.35 and 0.175 respectively when using the 12 dB SINAD method
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater
Bret, you might have your PA going in to oscillation creating the spurs due to a highly reactive duplexer. We had a similar problem here many years ago and fixed it with a simple tuner on the TX similar ot the GE Z matcher . The one that we used was Home Brew. When the tuner was adjusted for minimum VSWR, the spurs went away. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: brett brett_daw...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 7:26 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater Hi all, I have come across an interesting problem which you may be able to shed some light on. I have an intermod issue where my TX sometimes opens up my RX. I have the distinctive hollow pipe sound. Both TX and RX have the same CTCSS tone. The intermod product is however not always present, and after looking at the RX output from the duplexer with a SA I see a comb of products that move slowly in time. When one of the products in the comb falls within the RX bandwidth the RX opens, until it moves on. This is not a busy site, and I have been able to power down everything on site except my repeater. Problem remains unchanged. I have also disconnected feeders from all other RF equipment on site - still no change. The fact that the IM product frequency changes with time (drift rate is roughly a few kHz's an hour) makes me think that there is either another unknown source of RF on site which has poor freq stability (pretty unlikley), or somehow my TX freq is involved in producing this freq. I have inserted a 6dB pad in the antenna port of the duplexer and found that the IM products drop 12dB, and also curiously, the frequency of the products change. Removing the pad reverses this effect. I have repeated this many times and the result was always the same. It appears that the frequency of the IM product is dependent on the strength of the radiated field from my antenna. This is my question: I have read that it is possible for a strong EM field to excite metal (eg tower member) such that re-radiation will occur at a frequency which is different from that which excited it. Can anyone confirm they have seen this, or can anyone point me to a reference that talks about this? I should also mention there are multiple solar panels and associated regulators on site. The regulators have been discounted as possible sources, but the panels (given they may have bypass/blocking diodes) may be a mixing location, however the source of the drifting tone is still unclear. Thanks, Brett VK2CBD. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk
Eric, you're singing my tune ! I've used that stuff for many years now and it is really great. It was developed here in Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada by DW Electrochemicals. As you know only a very small amount is needed on the surface to be effective. The last bottle that I purchased here in Waterloo cost around $35.00. I'd bet that Electro-Sonic would carry it and they are now in the Buffalo areamight be quite a bit cheaper than the Motorola price... John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:13 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Tom, Motorola does not now, and never has, recommended DeOxit or any other contact enhancer gunk besides Stabilant 22. Up until just a few years ago, Motorola specified Stabilant 22A, under part number 1180369E78, which is a mixture of pure Stabilant 22 and isopropyl alcohol. Today, Motorola sells a kit under part number 1180384V93 which comprises a 5 ml bottle of pure Stabilant 22, an empty 15 ml bottle, and some tiny swabs. The user then puts 2.5 ml of the Stabilant 22 into the 15 ml bottle and adds 10 ml of 99% isopropanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22A, or adds 10 ml of pure ethanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22E. Either solution is extremely effective if applied wet to clean connectors immediately before mating. It is also effective in curing intermittent contacts in card-edge connectors in PCs and electronic instruments. The alcohol solvent is essential for the product to work; undiluted Stabilant 22 is ineffective. Drug-store isopropyl alcohol, aka rubbing alcohol, should not be used since it is diluted with water and will interfere with Stabilant's action. The 1180384V93 kit is sold by Motorola Parts for about $47, but is sufficient to last for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of w9srv Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:28 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Hi Guys! I am in the middle of rebuilding a receive site for one of the area repeaters and have come across some interesting Pin Gunk. I've been told that Motorola techs years ago used to apply some kind of goo to help with the connection on all the backplane pins, etc, but I don't know if this is what that is. This receive site has been developing some intermittant issues on several fronts, and maybe this explains them. The problem with this gunk is that is is non-conductive and a real bugger to clean off. DeOxit seems to work the best. I made this quick video last night showing this on the pins of the power control board. Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmWumkQetdY Has anyone else ever come across this? Are there any other steps other than cleaning it off to ensure it will not be another problem in the future? Thanks! Tom W9SRV Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk
Eric, I checked the web site for DW Electrochemicals and they mention that Electro-Sonic no longer carries their productwe'll have to ask Marty VE3MR what the problem is (he's the owner) Primespec here in Waterloo is where I get mine but shipping might be quite expensive to the USA. None the less it's a great product. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 3:26 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk John, I did not find Stabilant listed in the Electro-Sonic online catalog, but I did find the identical kit at Micro-Tools for only $38, here: www.micro-tools.com/store/P-22/Stabilant-22-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml-Of-22a.aspx I also found that Amazon sells the same kit as Micro-Tools, and for the same price of $38. I should point out that the kit does NOT make 30 ml of solution, as the listing implies; if the instructions are followed exactly- adding 10 ml of alcohol to 2.5 ml of pure Stabilant- the kit will make a total of 25 ml of solution. That's because the 15 ml bottle is filled only to the 12.5 ml point, where the bottle begins to narrow. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John J. Riddell Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 11:47 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Eric, you're singing my tune ! I've used that stuff for many years now and it is really great. It was developed here in Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada by DW Electrochemicals. As you know only a very small amount is needed on the surface to be effective. The last bottle that I purchased here in Waterloo cost around $35.00. I'd bet that Electro-Sonic would carry it and they are now in the Buffalo areamight be quite a bit cheaper than the Motorola price... John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:13 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Tom, Motorola does not now, and never has, recommended DeOxit or any other contact enhancer gunk besides Stabilant 22. Up until just a few years ago, Motorola specified Stabilant 22A, under part number 1180369E78, which is a mixture of pure Stabilant 22 and isopropyl alcohol. Today, Motorola sells a kit under part number 1180384V93 which comprises a 5 ml bottle of pure Stabilant 22, an empty 15 ml bottle, and some tiny swabs. The user then puts 2.5 ml of the Stabilant 22 into the 15 ml bottle and adds 10 ml of 99% isopropanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22A, or adds 10 ml of pure ethanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22E. Either solution is extremely effective if applied wet to clean connectors immediately before mating. It is also effective in curing intermittent contacts in card-edge connectors in PCs and electronic instruments. The alcohol solvent is essential for the product to work; undiluted Stabilant 22 is ineffective. Drug-store isopropyl alcohol, aka rubbing alcohol, should not be used since it is diluted with water and will interfere with Stabilant's action. The 1180384V93 kit is sold by Motorola Parts for about $47, but is sufficient to last for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of w9srv Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:28 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Hi Guys! I am in the middle of rebuilding a receive site for one of the area repeaters and have come across some interesting Pin Gunk. I've been told that Motorola techs years ago used to apply some kind of goo to help with the connection on all the backplane pins, etc, but I don't know if this is what that is. This receive site has been developing some intermittant issues on several fronts, and maybe this explains them. The problem with this gunk is that is is non-conductive and a real bugger to clean off. DeOxit seems to work the best. I made this quick video last night showing this on the pins of the power control board. Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmWumkQetdY Has anyone else ever come across this? Are there any other steps other than cleaning it off to ensure it will not be another problem in the future? Thanks! Tom W9SRV Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MVP problem
Steve, the orange wire goes to J 910 (J10) on the system audio sq. board, but it looks like this is just a connecting point (Holding point) as it does not connect to anything on that board. J10 is just above the center of J6 which is a 6 pin strip connector at the edge of the board. There are two strip connectors on that side of the board, and J6 is on the left when the second one J5 is on the right. To the right of J5 are a bunch of wire connections H11 to H17 The interconnect page shows a dotted line from the orange wire that would be on J10 to the channel guard board J1001. I presume that this is a mod if you add channel guard. It is labelled as Channel Guard disable I have quite a bunch of these MVP's so if this info doesn't help I can open one up and have a look. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 10:27 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MVP problem Hi John, I am certain this wire goes to the audio squelch board that is under the front panelwhere does it hook up there?? 73s Steve --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John J. Riddell ve3...@... wrote: Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Ralph, I think Eric Lemmon has explained it very well...but I work for a large telecommunications company here in Canada and we put AGM / VRLA batteries in equipment cabinets all the time and never had a problem. They are mounted on a steel shelf with a rubber mat below them. We do use very high quality charging equipment and regularly monitor the internal Impedance of the batteries. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ralph S. Turk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem
Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Mobile Repeater?
John, In it's former life it probably was a mobile telephone. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:28 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Mobile Repeater? Gentlemen (And Ladies) I have a MASTR II Exec mobile here, I think its a UHF Repeater. I want to confirm with you - but I am curious what RCC stands for. Comb number YS55SSXX88A. Nothing comes up on Google and not sure which Comb spec sheet to look this up with Hall Electronics or here on RB Archives. Thanks for your input! John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Digest Number 7357
Albert, 94 refers to 146.940 Mhz, the original frequency used by many on FM...I got on in 1968. Then if 94 was busy some would switch to 76 146.760. 94 was often referred to as Channel A Most new repeaters in those days were on 146.940 with the input on 146.340. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:51 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Digest Number 7357 You guys will have to find a picture of that. It sounds hysterical! I assume Mr. McKay built the transmitter right into the mic, no? And you will have to excuse me, but what is a 94? I myself don't have stories like this because I am a child of the 80's, but I love hearing about it and am know amongst my friends as the keeper of old things. This is why you all keep getting questions from me regarding the Genesis radios. Keep the stories and good advice coming. -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tony dinkel tonydinke...@... wrote: I remember that too Ken! I miss SAROC! And for your SoCal types.. I remember seeing Dick McKay walking around the Sahara in Vegas, talking into a Motorola mic (with just the coil cord hanging down) and listening on '94. This was during SAROC in the 70's Ken _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT:Printing google or Bing maps from the web
Don, capture it with Alt + Printscreen then open an Excel spread sheet, then drop your captured screen to it with Control V Now you can print it. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Don Kupferschmidt To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 9:42 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT:Printing google or Bing maps from the web All, I'm trying to print a map which was brought up on either google or bing maps on the internet and then export it to a bmp or jpg file which then I can print to an ink jet printer. I've tried and tried to figure this out, but cannot to find a solution. Has anyone been successful in doing this? Or do I need more software? O/S is x/p Pro. TIA, Don, KD9PT
[Repeater-Builder] Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru?
Here is some info on the GE version ...maybe it will help ? 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: travis8303 travis8...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru? If anyone can help out with this feed thru part, I have the same issue and need one as well. Thanks, Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k7icu k7...@... wrote: I have a sick Decibel DB4330 Z-Matcher with a crushed and mangled feed-thru capacitor (looks more like a ceramic non-capacitor feed-thru to me). Anyone know if the original feed-thru part is still available out there? Rough details: 10-32 x 3/8 body; 1 long 15 AWG wire ; ceramic insulator; 0.22 mounting hole; 5/16 flat hex-shaped outside end and a 10-32 nut inside the box. James K7ICU Yahoo! Groups Links Title: Z-Match GE Mastr II Z-Match The Z-match is shown on many duplex power amp schematics in many LBI's. The scans below came from a UHF book, LBI130201, but the information is identical to the information I found in several others, including VHF pages. These are the tuning instructions, quoted directly from the GE document: "Antenna Matching Unit AdjustmentThe Antenna Matching Unit is used only in continuous duty duplex stations to optimize impedance matching between the power amplifier and the load. It consists of a Pi network (C2-C5 and L1) and a reverse directional coupler. RF from the low pass filter is applied to the Pi network through the reverse directional coupler and then to the duplexer load. The reverse directional coupler permits monitoring the reflected power. 1. Connect DC Voltmeter across TP1 and ground. 2. Tune C2 and C4 for minimum voltage as indicated on DC Voltmeter. 3. Push L1 toward or away from the filter cover wall to further reduce the DC voltage. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary to obtain an absolute minimum voltage reading. Note: The residual voltage reading after tuning may vary from one transmitter to the next depending on output power level, operating frequency, and load". (click the small pictures to see a larger picture in a new browser window) VHF Z-Match UHF Z-Match Z-Match Schematic. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Z-Match Board layout. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Z-Match parts list. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Hosted by directNIC.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru?
Travis, the previous E mail that I sent likely has the Red X problem in the pictures. here is the link to the origianl version of what I sent. http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: travis8303 travis8...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru? If anyone can help out with this feed thru part, I have the same issue and need one as well. Thanks, Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k7icu k7...@... wrote: I have a sick Decibel DB4330 Z-Matcher with a crushed and mangled feed-thru capacitor (looks more like a ceramic non-capacitor feed-thru to me). Anyone know if the original feed-thru part is still available out there? Rough details: 10-32 x 3/8 body; 1 long 15 AWG wire ; ceramic insulator; 0.22 mounting hole; 5/16 flat hex-shaped outside end and a 10-32 nut inside the box. James K7ICU Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] yaesu FTL-7011 Off Topic
I recently received a Yaesu FTL-7011 F radio. It's brand new in the box. It has 24 channels and operates form 485-512 Mhz. Can anyone think of a use for this thing ? John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector
But Paul...Toronto is not near Lake Erie ! It's on Lake Ontario:-)) John VE3AMZ Waterloo, Ontario - Original Message - From: Paul Plack To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 1:54 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector Jesse, A radio engineer in Atlanta years ago told me a neat trick he said allows confirming a strike, and estimating the current it produced. It involves rexcording an audio tone on a piece of magnetic tape several feet long, sealing it in a weatherproof, non-conductive tube, and positioning it perpendicular to a tower leg. If lightning strikes, the magnetic flux produced around the conductor will vary proportionate to the current, and playing back the tape will reveal an erased portion which can be measured for its physical length. I have no idea how well that would actually work, or how to calculate the current based on how many inches of tape are erased. These days the only magnetic tape machines left in common use are old cassette decks, but it might be worth a piece of PVC pipe and some glue to try it. If you just want to know if it's hit, set up a vertical conductor some distance from the tower, but well within its cone of protection, connected through a fuse to an independent ground. If the tower gets smacked, you can bet some serious current will be induced in a 10-foot vertical wire. Years ago, an engineer for WBEN radio in Buffalo told me that on summer days when thunderstorms would hit the Toronto area across Lake Erie to the north, a hit on a radio tower up there would produce a spark across the ball gaps on the towers in Buffalo. That's 90 miles! 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: Jesse Lloyd To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:32 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector Hey All, I am trying to think of a way to detect if a tower at one of our sites gets a direct hit. I was thinking of paralleling a ground strap with a 10mA amp glass fuse. Maybe make the two connections to the ground stap 2 ft apart and use a fuse holder for fuse testing and replacement. I suspect the fuse would blow if any significant current went down the ground strap (or would the whole thing melt? I suppose either way I'd know!). Ideas? I live in an area that doesn't see a lot of lightning, I'm curious if the tower gets hit. Jesse
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pior Simon
Try, www.pionsimon.com They have a new web site for about a month now It worked for me just now... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: orangetruck38 orangetruc...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:11 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Pior Simon Hi- Just tried to bring up the Pion and Simon site and no luck ? Anyone know of a change ?? TKS,Jerry W8KQ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please
Chuck, I work for a National Telecom company here in Canada and we crimp everything used on DS-3 (BNC) and above. For the center pin you need a 12 point circular crimper and for the sleeve you need a good quality hex crimper such as Tyco etc. These two items can run you several hundred dollars each. The SMB crimper that we use costs around $1100.00 I've probably done a few thousand of them and never had a failure. So the trick is to have good tools and know the proper way of installing the connector. Seems to me that someone once mentioned that you must use crimp connectors on aircraft...??? not sure if that is true John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please To reduce PIM, the center conductor should be soldered. Whether there is a practical (measurable) difference would depend on how well the crimp was done, vs solder. From an Amphenol paper: Cable Attachment: Mechanical stability of the cable/connector junction is of utmost importance. Small movements caused by flexing can be translated into significant PIM. Center conductors should be soldered, not crimped. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: allan crites To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please Jeff Doesn't soldering of the center contact to the center conductor affect the connector PIM adversely vs not soldering? AC No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/12/10 02:32:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Nice article on the Molotora Gontor
I had to laugh when it said you need a model 15 TTY to program it... I used to fix those things many years ago ! Klunk - klunk - klunk. :-)) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer kug...@kuggie.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; repea...@yahoogroups.com; repeat...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 7:48 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Nice article on the Molotora Gontor Bob Meister has written a nice article on the Molotora Gontor for RB. http://www.repeater-builder.com/molotora/gontor/gontor.html Thanks go out to Bob for his efforts! Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale
Correct ! I have one here that is on UHF and it has two channels, a push button on the front to select A / B John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Richard To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 11:00 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale The combination number says it is a two channel 150-174 Mhz Richard www.n7tgb.net The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money --Margaret Thatcher -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kb5zxm Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:30 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale I forget how many frequency's will it accept? --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary n6...@... wrote: New/old stock GE VHF Phoenix PSX-200 synthesized mobile for sale. Model N5HH2w40CB with mic, bracket, original order card, and some wiring. Absolutely new in the box. I think it's all there but not sure so offered as is. I need the storage space back so will take $50 with free shipping in the continental U.S. Reply directly to me (off this email group) if interested. Thanks. Gary
[Repeater-Builder] Controller order , paypal problems
Some of you will recall that I had problems with Paypal when ordering a repeater controller. I sent two E mails to paypal and got no satisfactory reply...just stock answers I then called them to find out why they sent an E Check for my purchase instead of an instant money transfer. Again the lady read from a script and after asking her several times why they handled it this way, she finally told me that they have instituted a new security measure. When a purchase looks suspicious to their Computer, it decides to send an E Check which can take 10 - 15 days to clear. Is there any way to prevent thisno. since no human gets to see this transaction. This might happen in 1 - 2 % of the transactions that they handle. In my case the amount was $185.00 and it came out of my bank account instantly but their computer decided that it might be suspicious ! So hopefully this information is helpful to anyone using Paypal to make payments. I've used them many times in the past and never had a problem until now. John VE3AMZ
[Repeater-Builder] final comments re Pion and Simon Controller
As this should be the final comments on my order of a controller, the main reason there was a delay is that Paypal processed this order with an E Cheque. I had expected an instant transfer of money as has happened many times in the past but when they do an E Cheque, it takes 10 - 15 days to clear. The money came from my account instantly so I'll be contacting Paypal to see why this happened. I now have had several E mails from Pion and Simon, and the money has arrived, the card will be shipped to-day. Their phone number does not appear on their web site but I assume it will be added. it is 503-545-4732 I'm glad to know that I now have contact with Pion and Simon and I look forward to receiving the controller card. 73, John, VE3AMZ / W4 Orlando Florida
[Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
It was ordered directly from their web site and paid for by Paypal. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Was it bought on eBay? Post the item number / link. I'd like to see this. Ian has a good point, although its called BUYER protection. Seller protection works the same way, but for sellers. Just my OCD kicking in. John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 - Original Message - From: va...@securenet.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon John If you paid them on paypal, and it hasnt been 45 days yet since the transaction, institute a paypal chargeback. You can do this if you havent been given any valid tracking number on your item. This should get someone's attention on the other end. If after 30 days (i think) paypal will credit you your expense. its called seller protection. Paypal has a toll free number that works from Canada, so give them a call for details. Good luck Ian VA2IR At 03:14 PM 3/10/2010, you wrote: I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.436 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2734 - Release Date: 03/10/10 07:33:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
Thanks, James.but you'll recall that my question was for a phone number. I sent two E mails with no reply..to the address shown... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: James Cicirello To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Their web site says: We can be reached by sending mail to one of the addresses listed below: Postal address: PO Box 23651, Tigard, OR 97281 Electronic mail Al Pion Elizabeth Simon I use there product and am very happy, especially with the service I received from Al. Good Luck JIM KA2AJH On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 4:29 PM, John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net wrote: It was ordered directly from their web site and paid for by Paypal. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Was it bought on eBay? Post the item number / link. I'd like to see this. Ian has a good point, although its called BUYER protection. Seller protection works the same way, but for sellers. Just my OCD kicking in. John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 - Original Message - From: va...@securenet.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon John If you paid them on paypal, and it hasnt been 45 days yet since the transaction, institute a paypal chargeback. You can do this if you havent been given any valid tracking number on your item. This should get someone's attention on the other end. If after 30 days (i think) paypal will credit you your expense. its called seller protection. Paypal has a toll free number that works from Canada, so give them a call for details. Good luck Ian VA2IR At 03:14 PM 3/10/2010, you wrote: I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.436 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2734 - Release Date: 03/10/10 07:33:00 -- Jim Cicirello 181 Stevens Street Wellsville, N.Y. 14895 (585)593-4655
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs
Kris, the reason we don't put T-1 on cable pairs is of course NEXT FEXT. The receive level from a T-1 MUX is 6 Volts P:P so it will spill all over the cable. The standard for T-1 in seperately shielded pairs. We do use twisted pairs at a cross connect panel for short runs... (DSX-1 Panel) The HDSL technology does allow for T-1 on cable pairs but it uses 2B1Q protocol and there is really only 12 channels of the T-1 signal on each pair. 2B1Q was developed by Northern Telecom in Ottawa. 73 John VE3AMZ Retired, Bell Canada and MTS Allstream - Original Message - From: Kris Kirby k...@catonic.us To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs On Sat, 27 Feb 2010, JOHN MACKEY wrote: Using balanced audio in a broadcast environment, I have on rare occasions experienced issues with cross-talk between long runs of un-shielded balanced audio lines. (inductive pickup??) I always wondered if the wires were truly balanced when that happened. That's probably NEXT or FEXT, which is near-end cross-talk and far-end. Bell documented this stuff somewhere; I've read the book. There's a reason why they don't run the T1 lines with the voice lines or why they don't stuff the entire binder full of T1s. Of course, that same book explained how to use the cable pairs as resistors to heat up the cable, which has been done a few times in NYC, resulting in dead pairs in the cable due to too much power/heating on a given pair. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs
Skipp, yes you can get shielded Cat 5. I've used it a few times when running near AC fixtures etc. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:43 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs Joe k1ike_m...@... wrote: I wonder if CAT 6 would be better than CAT5 due to the difference in twist? Joe A number of different items in the specifications would be worth examining... like how much C per foot and I don't believe CAT network cables are shielded. s. Oz, in DFW wrote: Make sure you use twisted pair. Station wire like that use to wire houses is often not twisted. Ethernet cable is good and has a high twist pitch - better for this application. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further
Les Smith died several years ago and the Company is no longer in business. Les started making crystals at CTS in Streetsville Ontario and about 35 years ago he started his own company. I have lot's of his crystals here. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ont. (Where the Blackberry was invented) - Original Message - From: Paul Plack To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 4:41 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further There used to be a great little company in the Toronto area called Lesmith that did a nice job with crystals at prices below ICM's. They morphed a couple times and changed names, but I think they're out of the crystal biz now. Anyone have an update? 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: DCFluX To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 2:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further I just got some Bomar crystals (Not my choice) for the clubs UHF Micor. The TX was off 14 to 39 kHz, Had to add a 10pF cap to get the trimmer in the center range. Strangely the RX was fine.
[Repeater-Builder] PSE 508 Controllers
Has anyone here used the Pion and Simon PSE508 series of controllers in a GE Mastr II ? Is the 508-3 with 4 channels of CTCSS worth considering ? 73 John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Service Monitor Input Protection
Jim, Many years ago when I was servicing radio equipment for Bell Canada, we used a special fuse holder with a very small value fuse on the input connector. That worked well and protected the external pad that we used on the signal generator. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: James ka2...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:30 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Service Monitor Input Protection Hello to the group. Knowing most of you have service monitors for the Repeater Builder Hobby, I wanted to pose the following question. What method do you use to protect the input of your service monitor from excessive RF Power input? I am referring to the input/output jack that is limited to 2.5 watts on MANY service monitors. I know I can use an attenuator, but that gets removed for sensitivity checks and may not get put back on. One suggestion is a RF Relay that would trip on say one watt and put the power to a dummy load. The problem is I have used one of the cheap circuits in the past and toasted transistors in a Pre-amp, before the relay reacted as the book said it should. However I know there are circuits in say the Mirage Amp that also has a Pre-Amp that is removed from the antenna during transmit, that works well. What are you doing to protect your monitor? Appreciate your thoughts. 73 JIM KA2AJH Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dropping the Autopatch--Keep 911
Kurt, all Cellphones will dial 911 whether they are activated or not. But...the analogue phones will soon be turned off if they haven't already been shut down, very soon. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Facility 406 DM09 facility_...@earthlink.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 9:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dropping the Autopatch--Keep 911 So far, all old analog cell phones I have picked up dial 911 without paid service. I call the local dispatcher on them to test this, no problem, so a larger bag phone, generally free and incredibly easy to work on due to their size, could work, a controller made from something like a basic stamp or pic chip could dial for you, send 911, *911 etc to get a connection. Another way is to set your dialer, if possible, to allow outbound 911 only and reject all other call requests. If you go with an analog phone (AMPS), contact your local PD about testing if the service still exists with carriers around you, maybe during off hours. Kurt Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God
The list owner has asked that all this stuff be stopped. Can you folks not understand that ? This list is for assisting with technical issues regarding repeater building. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Rev. Robert P. Chrysafis kc8...@hotmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God I like it. i am not offended at all. just the other day i saw a real still operating drive in movie theater. I am seeing bit's of Real amaerica starting to re emerge amongst the liberal PC garbage and i love it. - Original Message - From: ki4zji rr...@librtynet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 10:28 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God I am deeply offended by this. No, not the mention that we should take time out for God. I am offended by the barrage of tirades assaulting Lee for daring to mention God. Lee, good for you! Everyone who is a Christian should be a light in their community, drawing men to Jesus. Oh no - I mentioned Jesus. I guess I will get a box full of email telling me how offensive I am. Perhaps if I mentioned Buddha or Mohammad, I would be ok. But I dared to mention Jesus. Folks, if you live in the United States, you are living in a distinctively CHRISTIAN NATION. Get over the PC garbage that has polluted and is destroying our GREAT CHRISTIAN NATION. The United States is, after all, ONE NATION UNDER GOD. When our fathers founded this country, it was not founded on some nebulous supreme being, it was founded by Christians who were escaping religious persecution. They came to the New World because they wanted to freely worship Jesus. The original colonists as well as those who wrote the foundational documents of this country knew JESUS CHRIST as their personal LORD and SAVIOUR. To them, the name JESUS CHRIST was a name with power, a name to be honored and revered. The name of Jesus was not offensive and was certainly not a swear word to them. Some believe that if we call ourselves a Christian nation, we are forcing Christ on all people. Nothing could be farther from the truth. As Christians, who acknowledge the Bible as their final authority, we must admit that all people have a free will. If someone decides to follow another religion, that is their prerogative, their choice. There is no reason to be offended by that. It is sad to see such replies from what I thought was basically a good group of people. We can peaceably disagree on doctrine, denomination and even politics. That is our RIGHT as citizens. However, when one person is vilified for his willingness to ask you to take a moment out for God, regardless of who you may call God, there is a serious problem. The problem is not with Lee, the problem is with all of you who are persecuting him (and I suppose, now, me). Now, for what I am sure will be the final straw for some of you. I shall quote some Scripture. John 15:25 But this cometh to pass, that the word might be fulfilled that is written in their law, They hated me without a cause. They hated Jesus without cause. What was Jesus here for? To sacrifice Himself to save mankind from their sins. There was no reason for them to hate Jesus. He came to save us all. If I were to run headlong into a burning building to rescue someone from the fire, I would be lauded as a hero. If I should happen to get a little burn, the accolades would be greater. Jesus was God in the flesh. As God, who cannot sin, He took the all the sins of all the world upon Him. Imagine the guilt you would hopefully feel if you murdered an innocent child. Aside from the physical torture He endured in the process of the crucifixion, Jesus took all that guilt of all our sins upon Himself for us. Where are His accolades? Why is He not a hero among you? If you would like to discuss this with me, please email me directly. rr...@librtynet.com Sincerely, Randy Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap: Canadian Marconi Repeater.
Hi Tedd, Just wondered if you meant 146.28 / 146.880 as i think that is the standard pair JR - Original Message - From: Tedd Doda la...@sentex.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:51 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap: Canadian Marconi Repeater. Hi Guys: Does anyone close to Kitchener-Waterloo Ontario have a use for a VHF repeater? This is just the cabinet, and it comes with another unit for parts. It is currently on 147.280/147.880 (crystals included). It has been sitting in my shop for 10+ years, so it's time to let someone else have some fun. $50 or B.O. (really BEST OFFER) Tedd Doda, VE3TJD Lazer Audio and Electronics http://www.ve3tjd.com My idea of a symphony: 8 pistons playing the tune my right foot tells them to. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II synthesizer
Tony, / Brian, You will have to change the receive offset crystal in the GLB and do some re-programming for the TX OP (possibly) depending on it's original out put freq. In the TX you will need to disable the feedback so that the first stage is an amplifier, not an oscillator. I built several of them and still have one in use here on an old GE Station 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tony Faiola To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:27 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II synthesizer Hello Brian: I have a GLB synthesizer with the complet original manual in working condition when I took it out of the car. when I took it out of the car, it was wrapped with clear plastic, and tucked away. Never thought about selling it, but maybe it is worth $30.00 (plus shipping). If you have any questions, let me know, and I'll check the manual. I'm the original owner, and built it from their kit. It might be cheaper than buying crystals. Ciao, Tony, K3WX On May 26, 2009, at 1:15 PM, Brian Gieryk wrote: Individual Email | Traditional
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Strang new noise in repeater
Norman, we had a similar situation many years ago with a Ham repeater that would lock up with a distant repeater using the reverse pair frequencies ! It was a sound like a hollow tunnel howling and growling.happened during periods of inversion. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: NORM KNAPP nkn...@twowayradio.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:12 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Strang new noise in repeater Got a VHF repeater in my area. In the last several weeks it has started making a noise like that of a steam whistle. It doesn't do it all the time. It seems random. I have not been able to make any connections yet with regular occurances. It doesn't do it until someone talks through the repeater and the unkeys. The noise keeps the repeater up for a couple of seconds to neary a minute. The repeater is a 100watt MTR2000. I don't remember the duplexer type/model/brand. It doesn't seem to do it during the day, it seems more prevelant in the evening and mornings. Any ideas? N5NPO Norman Knapp Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Connector plating vs PIM etc.
Paul, there is a product made here in Canada by DW Electro chemicals called Stabilant 22 that works wonders on connectors. It is a liquid and is about 35 dollars for a very small bottle. You just put a very small amount of it on each mating surface of the connectors and it becomes highly conductive between the two metal surfaces. I used it on all of my repeater antenna connections and had excellent results in lowering noise problems. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Paul Kelley N1BUG paul.kelley.n1...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Connector plating vs PIM etc. OK, I guess it's about time I asked this. Is there someplace I can find a reference on various connector types (plated or not, type of plating) vs PIM/IMD/noise in duplex systems and/or in high RF environments? I am looking at replacing my run of LDF5-50A and wonder what type of connectors I *should* use. I always *thought* silver plated connectors were the way to go. But it is obvious none of the connectors on my DB4062B duplexer are silver plated. They are silver in color but they do not tarnish at all after many years... clearly not silver. I've also noticed on this Sinclair dipole array that I had problems with, the 3 x N(f) tees are silver plated but the mating N(m) connectors on the harness are not. Brass, silver, gold, tri-metal (?)... help! What are the accepted rules for connector choice for duplex systems and/or in high RF environments, and why? What about mating connectors with different plating? If a repeater is in a very low RF environment, does it even matter? Thanks! Paul N1BUG Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - (anderson power poles revisited)
Skipp, I had some (small connectors) that were made by TYCO and they seemed to have a much better spring in them and it took a lot more force to pull them apart. I suspect that soldering them may cause some of the problem, so I now have the proper' crimp tool. When you solder them the solder tends to wick back in the wire making the connection much stiffer. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:19 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - (anderson power poles revisited) Hi Martin, I normally would crimp and solder the wire into the small power pole connectors at fixed station (not moving and vibrating) locations. The intermittent was the contact(s). The contact pressure wasn't consistent and the finger tong would bend with simple force. After the second extra long service call drive to find the intermittent power connection (wiggle to restore power), I jerked them all out and never looked back. Don't have the problems with the larger power pole connectors... just the smaller ones that tend to be popular with the Amateur Radio (Ham) crowd. cheers skipp rahwayflynn mafl...@... wrote: Re your problem with the Power Pole Connectors: Was the contact itself intermittent or the wire / contact crimp? I have yet to have a prblem with them in DC service, however for signal and data, I generally use Amp CPC series. Martin skipp025 skipp025@ wrote: I stopped using small Anderson Power Pole connectors because of all the grief they caused me on the commercial radio side of my life. A lot of people like and use them but I don't trust or use them anymore after a few 10 hour days sourced back to intermittent small power-pole connectors. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2
I use the SB-50 dual connectors. They come in several colours which are a semi standard for the voltage used. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey wb2...@roadrunner.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:38 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 I didn't see 50-amp ones on their site. Part number? Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Mike Naruta AA8K a...@comcast.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 Ah, thank you John John J. Riddell wrote: Mike, don't use the little red / black plugsthey don't work so well. I have standardised on the 50 amp plugs...even in my car...they won't pull apart. I also use them on all my Son's farm machinery and he is very pleased with them. 73 John VE3AMZ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2
Mike, don't use the little red / black plugsthey don't work so well. I have standardised on the 50 amp plugs...even in my car...they won't pull apart. I also use them on all my Son's farm machinery and he is very pleased with them. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Mike Naruta AA8K a...@comcast.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 I read about the Anderson Power Pole connectors in QST and thought, What a great idea. I started using them in our county's com van for the portable 800 MHz repeater and ham gear, and was I disappointed. Even the coiled cord for the cigarette lighter plug pulled them apart. Now I'm supposed to buy a plastic clip to hold them together? Bah! I think that my toaster has a better plug on its cord. rahwayflynn wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@.. . wrote: I stopped using small Anderson Power Pole connectors because of all the grief they caused me on the commercial radio side of my life. A lot of people like and use them but I don't trust or use them anymore after a few 10 hour days sourced back to intermittent small power-pole connectors. Re your problem with the Power Pole Connectors: Was the contact itself intermittent or the wire / contact crimp? I have yet to have a prblem with them in DC service, however for signal and data, I generally use Amp CPC series. Martin Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode?
SkippIt's 5 - 6 on the 8 pin modular plug. I have one here. Now I seem to recall that Motorola counts those plugs backwards to the EIA standard So.when I say 5 and 6, face the plug away from you, tab on the top... Pin one is on your right. I use those plugs in my business here making Ethernet cablesmade several thousand of them in the last while so I've crunched quite a few of them. Some people call them an RJ-45 plugthat they are not ! RJ-45 is an electrical spec denoting the wiring in the plug. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 3:45 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode? Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode? Hello groovy guys and gals... The Motorola Maxtrac, GM-300, M120 and similar Radius Radios enable the CTCSS/DCS decoder on-hook, off hook with a connection through the mic jack/plug. These radios made/placed into repeater service are sold with jumper plugs placed into the mic jacks. These plugs are simply a single wire jumper looping two pins, which place the radio in full time CTCSS decode. So... the 50 cent question is... does one of you 100% know the proper two pins used to enable the CTCSS decoder? I need to make a few... thanks skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Gran K6RIF was asking about sturdy antenna's and my suggestion was to check on the Sinclair models. As I recall the SRL307 has a bandwidth of + or - 2.5% so it would be important to know what freq. your antenna's were cut for (ie Center frequency.) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gary Schafer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 11:12 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Not sure who is looking for the yagi antenna but I have three NOS Sinclair SRL307 antennas still in the box. All elements are welded. 73 Gary K4FMX -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 7:59 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Look here: http://www.sinclairtechnologies.com/catalog/product.aspx?id=89 Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Gran Clark To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 11:50 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Chuck I will call Sinclair. They don't list a welded antenna. On the beam I have the elements are mounted on the outside of the boom which I would think would be hard to make a good weld if I went that way. Gran At 07:34 PM 3/29/2009, you wrote: Forgot to add that Sinclair makes one for the amateur portion of the band. You can order direct - they have a ham discount. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi I'll second that. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:12 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Gran, you might want to consider a Sinclair yagi...they are built like a battleship ! ...not cheap...but they work well. 73 John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Gran, you might want to consider a Sinclair yagi...they are built like a battleship ! ...not cheap...but they work well. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gran Clark To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 8:55 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Hi All We are duplexing using a UHF 11 element yagi (Cruscraft) in a hostile environment. Last weekend there were a number of 110 MPH gusts. The problem is wind noise. I have tightened the element hardware with some success. Spray it with water and it is quiet while tapping the boom with a small hammer. The beam is mounted on a 1 1/2 inch fiberglass pole. This is a 195 mile link and using 15 watts out of the duplexer. This has worked fairly well for fifteen years but the noise is a recurring problem. Some thoughts using conductive epoxy, came to mind but also I was looking for a supplier of a welded maybe 9 element yagi that might work. We need a yagi to give co channel protection to the North (beam headed East). Gran K6RIF
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E
Re the Sinclair RES-LOC Q2220E Duplexer, they make a much better version, the Q2330E model. We use one here on VE3KSR, 146.970 It has 100 Db of Tx - Rx isolation at 500 Khz and midband isolation of 55 Db as opposed to 30 Db in the Q2220. Power rating is 350 watts on each unit. The Q2330E has three cavities on each side. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E We have one in place right now on the 600 KHz split at 25 watts from a MastrII... Very noticeable desense... Not very happy with the setup... But we're doing the best we can with what was on the hill when we started... Oh well lol. On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 12:39 PM, ve7fet yahoogro...@woldanski.com wrote: Actually, the comment below isn't quite true. The Q2220E is a Res-Lok duplexer, but there are no machined coupling ports between the cavities. I just took the loops out of one to confirm. The coupling between the cavities is a function of the pickup loop inside the cavity, and the coax between them. However, in the C2034 type Res-Lok combiners, there ARE coupling ports machined between the bandpass section cavities (confirmed that too). Of interesting note on the Q2220E, the docs from Sincliar show two different harnesses available, presumably one for high split, and one for low. I have two Q2220E's here, one factory 143/148 and the other 152/157. They both have the same harness on them (320mm inter-cavity of RG400), and the pickup loops are the same size too (110mm). If you run the numbers for 320mm and a velocity factor of 0.695, you get a center frequency for the harness of 163MHz. If you wanted to optimize the tuning for the best response in the ham band, you may want to consider re-building the harness and changing the inter-cavity lengths to 355mm. I wouldn't change the lengths of the pickup loops as that is going to significantly change the response. Also note, the Q2220E makes a good candidate to modify for 220MHz... just ask Dave Cameron... http://www.irlp.net/duplexer Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Part of the problem is that the Q2220E duplexer uses the Res-Lok design, wherein the coupling between cavities of each pair is via a machined port between them, rather than a cabled coupling loop that can be adjusted.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E
AJ, the only suggestion that I have is to add a regular cavity on each side if you have some availablethat 2220 is probably never going to work very well at 600 Khz. If your PA is causing spursput an antenna tuner on the output of the TX between the TX and the Duplexer, and tune it for minimum VSWR...that should clean it up GE did this with a device they called a Z Matcher. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:35 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E Any suggestions for improving the situation with our existing Q2220E duplexer? We could turn the P/A down even further, but there's not much more room to work with with this 40 watt P/A from it's current 25 watt level without causing spurs... On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 3:44 PM, John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net wrote: Re the Sinclair RES-LOC Q2220E Duplexer, they make a much better version, the Q2330E model. We use one here on VE3KSR, 146.970 It has 100 Db of Tx - Rx isolation at 500 Khz and midband isolation of 55 Db as opposed to 30 Db in the Q2220. Power rating is 350 watts on each unit. The Q2330E has three cavities on each side. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E We have one in place right now on the 600 KHz split at 25 watts from a MastrII... Very noticeable desense... Not very happy with the setup... But we're doing the best we can with what was on the hill when we started... Oh well lol. On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 12:39 PM, ve7fet yahoogro...@woldanski.com wrote: Actually, the comment below isn't quite true. The Q2220E is a Res-Lok duplexer, but there are no machined coupling ports between the cavities. I just took the loops out of one to confirm. The coupling between the cavities is a function of the pickup loop inside the cavity, and the coax between them. However, in the C2034 type Res-Lok combiners, there ARE coupling ports machined between the bandpass section cavities (confirmed that too). Of interesting note on the Q2220E, the docs from Sincliar show two different harnesses available, presumably one for high split, and one for low. I have two Q2220E's here, one factory 143/148 and the other 152/157. They both have the same harness on them (320mm inter-cavity of RG400), and the pickup loops are the same size too (110mm). If you run the numbers for 320mm and a velocity factor of 0.695, you get a center frequency for the harness of 163MHz. If you wanted to optimize the tuning for the best response in the ham band, you may want to consider re-building the harness and changing the inter-cavity lengths to 355mm. I wouldn't change the lengths of the pickup loops as that is going to significantly change the response. Also note, the Q2220E makes a good candidate to modify for 220MHz... just ask Dave Cameron... http://www.irlp.net/duplexer Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Part of the problem is that the Q2220E duplexer uses the Res-Lok design, wherein the coupling between cavities of each pair is via a machined port between them, rather than a cabled coupling loop that can be adjusted.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Making PDFs
Dave, try down loading a small program called Cute PDF writer...it's free and will make PDF's for you. It is set up as a printer but saves them to a file on your computer. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Dave Gomberg da...@wcf.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 6:55 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Making PDFs At 15:37 3/22/2009, Kris Kirby wrote: No way around it unless I want to lose PDF authoring capability. Buy a Mac Actually WordPerfect makes beautiful PDF files and has for years... -- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html - Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II
Correct.The exec 1 had totally different innardsthe exec II is similar to the Mastr II The exec 1 had three tubes8106, x 2and 7984 PA John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Thomas Oliver tsoli...@tir.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 5:29 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II I think the exec I had a tube final RX was solid state looks nothing like an exec II so I would say no. tom [Original Message] From: Chris Curtis demo...@rollanet.org To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 3/3/2009 5:06:57 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II Anyone have a short version of the differences between an exec I station and an exec II station? Are the innards swappable? Thanks for your time. Chris Kb0wlf Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ?
Folks,.I replied privately to Chris, and since I was the guy
who put ths info on here as a favour to Mike, WA6ILQ,
it seems to me that this should end now.
In hindsight, it probably should have been a private E mail to Mike...
(I had to laugh when I was described as a Unknown third party)
lets get off this topic, and back to Repeater builder info.
73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
- Original Message -
From: Bill Hudson
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
Chris - you are not a licensed amateur radio operator.
You got your GMRS system less than a year ago.
You live in Newport County, where records show a significant amount of
information.
CHRIS L CARRUBA Get More Information
25 BRISTOL FERRY RD
PORTSMOUTH, RI 02871(401) 683-3394
Complete Report on CHRIS L CARRUBA
It's all out there for everyone to see.
--
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Carruba
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 4:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
I would be extremely pissed off if someone published my personal info on a
public board in this manor.
Chris Carruba (WQIK389)
CompuTec Data Systems
Custom Written Software,
Networking, Forensic Data Recovery
--
From: John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:36:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
Mike, from the Internet...
73 John VE3AMZ
Jesse Marroquin
2312 Senna Hills Ln
Plano, TX 75025-4786
(972) 396-5807
- Original Message -
From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@gmail. com
To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:18 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number
for K5JXM ?
I'm looking for contact info for Jesse Marroquin K5JXM in Plano Texas.
Mike WA6ILQ
- - --
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ?
Mike, from the Internet... 73 John VE3AMZ Jesse Marroquin 2312 Senna Hills Ln Plano, TX 75025-4786 (972) 396-5807 - Original Message - From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:18 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ? I'm looking for contact info for Jesse Marroquin K5JXM in Plano Texas. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Interconnect (Inside Repeater)
Mike, the BNC connector was designed for quick insertion / disconnect and works very well in most applications. However the Type N connector is much more robust and would be my choice for critical connections such as a Duplexer or an Antenna etc We use them all the time in the Telephone business for DS-3 connections. Here is some history on the BNC connector... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Mike Pugh mikep...@mikepugh.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 3:55 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Interconnect (Inside Repeater) Alexander N Tubonjic wrote: I am wanting to swap out the BNC receiver connector to an N connector on my Kenwood TKR-750 2 meter repeater. After contacting Kenwood and getting quoted some crack prices I figured I'd see if anyone has anything laying around or has any ideas on here. Why? electrically, the BNC connectors and the N connectors are the same thing. Don't believe me? Try plugging them together.. Even though they won't latch together, electrically, they fit together perfectly, and can be used this way in an emergency if you're at a tower site and find you don't have the proper connector.. What am I missing? Mike Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Stabilant
Eric, That stuff works really well...I've been using it for many years and it was developed here in Canada by DW Electrochemicals Ltd in Richmond Hill Ont. It works well on radio's that have multiple boards interconnected by pins that become intermittent, such as the Yaesu FT 2400H. I'm sure that Electro-Sonic in Toronto carries itthe last time I bought it here is Waterloo from Primespec, it was about $35.00 Canadian and that would about $29.00 US. I can confirm the price if you would like... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 1:58 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Stabilant A week or so ago, I posted the statement that Motorola had adopted Stabilant 22A as a preferred electrical contact enhancer, and had given it the part number 1180369E78. I now know that Motorola has discontinued that part number and replaced it with 1180384V93, priced at $46. The difference between the two part numbers is that 1180369E78 was a pre-mixed vial containing 15 mL of pure Stabilant 22 and 99% pure isopropanol in a 4:1 ratio, AKA Stabilant 22A, while 1180384V93 is a kit containing 5 mL of pure Stabilant 22 and an empty 15 mL bottle. The included instructions direct you to put half of the 5 mL Stabilant 22 into the 15 mL bottle, and then add either 99% pure isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) or 100% pure ethanol (grain alcohol) to obtain 12.5 mL of Stabilant 22A or Stabilant 22E, respectively. You eventually wind up with 25 mL of the Stabilant mixture, enough to last a very long time. Be careful to use only extremely pure alcohols for these mixtures, not rubbing alcohol, because the less-pure versions contain water or other adulterants for denaturing or diluting the product. Methanol (wood alcohol) or denatured alcohol should not be used. Technical literature, application notes, and MSDSs can be found here: http://www.stabilant.com/ 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Triplett 630 Multimeter
Triplett 630 Multimeter I came across the manual for the Triplett 630 Analogue Multimeter on the Internet in PDF format, and if anyone needs it I can send it to them. It's about 30 pages if you print it. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: fan timer circuit
Kevin, another method of slowing down an AC fan is to put a capacitor in series with the AC leads as a voltage dropping element. A local Ham played with this idea many years ago and as I recall he started with a 1 Mfd paper capacitor. In his case he dropped the voltage to around 90 volts to the fan. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2008 8:58 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: fan timer circuit n...@no6b.com wrote: One reason why I've dismissed using any switching on my 110 V cooling fans let them spin 24/7. I have used 220 V muffin fans on 110 V and they last for years. I put one in service in 1997, and it's still turning. Kevin
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Amateur Radio Repeater Usage - what are you going to do about it?
Benjamin, The sparse activity seems to be everywhere.One suggestion is to add IRLP to your repeater. When there is no local activity there always seems to be someone listening on the various reflectors all over the world and you can chat with them. Some time back, I was driving to pick up my wife from work at 7 PM here in Ontario, and I came across a fellow Ham in Japan who was also driving but it was 7 AM in the morning there. IRLP activity would certainly be of interest to anyone listening to our Ham repeaters on a scanner and it may just be the spark to get them interested in becoming a Ham. The inventor of IRLP is a Canadian Ham and is a member of this list, VE7LTD 73 John VE3AMZ (A Ham for 50 years) Waterloo, Ontario - Original Message - From: Benjamin L. Naber benja...@kb9lfz.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:47 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Amateur Radio Repeater Usage - what are you going to do about it? So after reading a few messages, I began to think, what is each person who gets these messages now going to do about it? I guess you have a few options. Sit on your butt in front of the idiot box like 90% of all Americans and not do anything but complain. -Or- Do something about like going attending club meetings and begin public service events. The ARRL has a lot of getting involved with amateur radio. I read it about five years ago and to this day I still do what I can which my military time consuming job allows - I still go on the air, even if it's on the rid home.. Read my article in June/July 2004 QST. Unless you have a positive thing you are going do, then never mind this post and do not reply. ~Benjamin, KB9LFZ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers
Jason, check with Sinclair, I understand that they will sell you a cable kit for the freq. that you need. Putting on a bunch of N connectors and doing it well is not a job for the Faint of Heart 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jason Arnold To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 1:33 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers Do you know of a good place to have the cables made? I suck at doing coax and I am sure this needs to be quality. This is my 2 repeater and the first time really dealing with duplexers. The first system the duplexers where wacom and allready tuned. Thanks -Jason --- On Sun, 11/23/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 5:42 AM At 11/21/2008 20:03, you wrote: I am new to the sinclair line of duplexers. I have a set of used vhf duplexers setup in the high vhf range. current freqs are 165.2375 and 165.1375. Has anyone had luck changing the coax harness to the longer 36cm and getting the duplexers to tune down to the two meter band? Direct answer: yes. To get it to work on 2 meters, the jumpers running from each can to the attached Ts need to be lengthened. Although I got acceptable from the one I had after doing this, for optimum performance all the cables need to be lengthened. Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation)
Jim, The attachment can't be openedmaybe you sould re-send it...? 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jim Brown To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 1:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation) Her are some interesting comments on the MFJ SWR analyzers that were published in QST. I hope the attached file is not too large for download. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Sun, 11/23/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need SWR meter recomendation To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 9:21 AM The latest models of the 259/269 have a recessed power switch to prevent it from being turned on accidentally. Bill - WA0CBW In a message dated 11/23/2008 12:53:06 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] com writes: Albert, I've had friends joke about MFJ standing for mighty fine junk, but I have nothing but good things to say about my MFJ 259 antenna analyzer. If you're building antennas, the MFJ 259 (HF/VHF) or 269 (HF/VHF/UHF) are really handy. If you're trying to find the resonant frequency or set up a gamma match, they'll save a ton of time compared to an SWR bridge/transmitter combination, and give you more information, such as resistance and reactance displayed separately on the LCD. It also serves as a counter and, in a pinch, as a (not-very-stable and somewhat microphonic) signal generator. But remember the limitations. You can't transmit through them, so they can't be used to monitor the behavior of an antenna under operating conditions. They can't be used to measure a transmitter' s output power like most SWR bridges. They're also prone to error in any environment where strong external signals from nearby transmitters overwhelm the test signal internally generated by the analyzer, which results in a false reading of reflected power. I would recommend these little boxes to anyone, but do have one major complaint - the internal battery scheme. The thing takes 10 AA cells, they don't last long, and you have to remove several screws and the case to change them. You have to be really careful how you transport the 259, because the power button sticks out where any bump will turn it on, and run your batteries down. After having the power bumped on during storage and a resulting leak of the alkalines after they ran down, I cleaned it up (no permanent damage) and just don't put batteries in mine any more. I use it on the AC adapter, a cigarette lighter cord, or an external battery pack, all plugged into the 15V input. But I won't be without one! 73, Paul, AE4KR
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer
Scott, a product that I have used on all kinds of connections including RF is Stabilant 22. It is made in Richmond Hill Ontario and does a wonderful job of making a good connection between metal surfaces. It is quite expensive, $35.00 for a small bottle but you only need a drop of it to work. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:59 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer If the silver plating seems to be scratched, I have had good luck with the products that are used to silver plate circuit boards. I don't recall the product name that I used, but it was/is available from Digikey and such. I merely used fine steel wool to polish the plunger and then used the silverplating kit to re-plate it. Here is one product I ran across in a google search: http://www.cool-amp.com/cool-amp.html WARNING: The silverplating plating is NOT very thick. It won't take much to scratch it back off, but if you lube the finger stock with a conductive lube it will last longer. I have used no-ox in the past, but Cool-amps's Conducto-Lube might be a better choice. I have had no experience with it. Good luck, Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer skipp025 wrote: You didn't say how you'd cleaned the surface in the past. I would only use a Brass or hard Stainless Steel brush to avoid embedding non same metals into the plunger or contact surface. Using a common steel wire brush is not a good idea. s. Also NEVER use an over the counter chemical treatment to clean the surfaces. Products like TARN-X are not acceptable for cleaning electronic equipment; relay contacts, duplexer guts, etc! Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1714 - Release Date: 10/8/2008 7:01 AM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length
Colin, Non inductive resistors are quite inductive above 30 Mhz. The Cantenna is also a poor load at VHF / UHF. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length I am not sure what would make a good or not good load resistor. I am using a pair of non inductive 100 ohm 100 watt resistors in parallel, air cooled. I also use a cantenna. Are these not good or fair? Thanks, Collin -Original Message- From: wd8chl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dear RP, I am doing some testing and have the 145.410 repeater connected to a dummy load. To get an accurate output indication in watts is it critical to have 1/2 wavelength cables? I have used an 18 cable from TX to wattmeter and then a 72 cable from wattmeter to load resistor. I have noticed a big difference in wattmeter indication between using the 72 cable and connecting the load right to the wattmeter. Also the same indication with a cable 144 long. I am making some cables 1/2 wavelength long for tuning use. Am I doing right? Thanks, Collin If you have a good dummy load, it WILL NOT matter what length coax you use. In fact, I try to make sure my cables are NOT resonant. If there's a significant difference when you go from a resonant cable to a non-resonant one, or from a 1/4-wave to a 1/2-wave, there is a problem with the load. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:35 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Eric, Comments/answers interspersed below. Thanks for the help. I believe you are confirming that the problem is within the box, probably the cables. John -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 12:30 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, You really need to use accurate test equipment, preferably a service monitor, to verify your frequencies. Yes, my old Singer service monitor is not good enough to be useful. There is a service monitor for sale (CT 3000B Communications Service Monitor) for $800. Does this seem reasonable?) Unless your repeater and duplexer are exactly on frequency, your desense problem could possibly be due to the notches on the duplexer not being coincident with the TX and RX frequencies of the repeater. It occurs even when there is no duplexer. The Yaesu FTR-1510, like the similar low-tier products from Kenwood, Motorola, Icom, and Ritron, is intended for less-stringent applications- construction sites, shopping malls, race tracks, etc. As I have mentioned in other postings to this list, some of these boxes are equipped with single-braid coaxial cable to connect various modules within the enclosure. The Motorola GR1225 and Vertex VXR-5000 are examples of this cost-cutting practice. I have corrected significant desense in these two models by replacing the internal jumpers with RG-400/U cable. I have performed the test described below, and the result is that there is desense within the repeater. The cables appear to be good, i.e. the shielding appears to be heavy silver coated braid. Nevertheless, the cables are about the only possibility left that I know of. I guess I have to check them or replace them next. One way to settle this issue is to first program the FTR-1510 as a base station, or simply disable the repeat function, and program your TX and RX frequencies without any CTCSS tones. Put a suitable dummy load directly on the repeater's TX output connector, preferably one that screws onto the output connector itself, without any cable or adapter fitting. Using a service monitor, inject a signal at the RX frequency directly into the repeater's receive connector. The test signal should be frequency-modulated with a 1 kHz tone set for 3 kHz deviation. Monitor the de-emphasized receive audio using the SINAD meter function, and set the amplitude to achieve a 12 dB SINAD reading. If the repeater is properly tuned, this signal level will be in the range of -119 dBm to -113 dBm, or 0.25 to 0.5 uV. Now, while watching the SINAD meter reading, key the transmitter. If the SINAD meter reading drops significantly when the transmitter is keyed, you have in-cabinet desense! The cure is probably going to require making up new double-shielded cables. I don't know what's inside the Yaesu FTR-1510, but I will assume that three cables are needed: One cable from the bulkhead RX jack to the receiver input, one cable from the exciter output to the PA input, and one cable from the PA output to the bulkhead TX jack. Before replacing any cables, check for loose or missing shields, missing cover screws, loose connectors, etc.- anything that might allow RF to sneak in where it doesn't belong. If the above test proves that the desense is not caused by leakage within the repeater enclosure, check to see if the duplexer frequencies exactly match those in the repeater. It is important to use the same equipment to check the duplexer and the repeater; it is more important for the tuning to be the same rather than be exactly on the center frequency. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Eric, Thanks. John -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 8:42 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I've tried everything, it seems, and I still have desense!! Even when I connect only the repeater (Yaesu Musen FTR-1510) and a controller (needed to make the repeater transmit) and put a dummy load on the TX out, I get desense. Following up on Eric's suggestion about holes leaking RF, I sealed the edges and holes in the TX and RX units inside the repeater, and I built a shield to enclose the back side of the TX connector that is on the back
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Feed thru capacitors look like a peice of wire with a blob in the middle, and have a 1/4 locknut on one side. You drill the chassis and insert the feed thru cap then mount it tightly with a nut. Then attach the incoming wires to the outside of the cap. Check Maggiore's web site...you might see a picture of them there as they use them on their Tx and Rx assemblies. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Chuck, John Bob, Derek, Eric, Mike, JohnB, and Tom, Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. The connectors appear to be perfect, and they check out with DC. The cable on the RX side is double shielded RG142B/U. The cable on the TX side is not marked with a complete designation. It says AWM Style 1354, but there are many cables that are said to be UL AWM Style 1354. Some of these are 75 ohm, some are 50 ohm. This cable is only six inches long. I plan to replace this as soon as I can get RG400 or other suitable cable. BNC connectors are used on both the RX unit and the TX unit. I don't know what it means to have a feed through capacitor in series with a control or audio or power cable. However, a capacitor to ground might be good to get rid of stray RF. Pray if you are so inclined. Otherwise, hope we can make the physics work. Thanks again, JohnT -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:06 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I was wondering the same thing. Has someone added some wiring and subsequently breached the integrity of the shielding effectiveness somewhere? First thing to come to mind is controller interfacing and CTCSS wiring. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Check this link to see a picture of a feed thru cap: http://www.surplussales.com/Capacitors/CapacitorsAll.html 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Chuck, John Bob, Derek, Eric, Mike, JohnB, and Tom, Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. The connectors appear to be perfect, and they check out with DC. The cable on the RX side is double shielded RG142B/U. The cable on the TX side is not marked with a complete designation. It says AWM Style 1354, but there are many cables that are said to be UL AWM Style 1354. Some of these are 75 ohm, some are 50 ohm. This cable is only six inches long. I plan to replace this as soon as I can get RG400 or other suitable cable. BNC connectors are used on both the RX unit and the TX unit. I don't know what it means to have a feed through capacitor in series with a control or audio or power cable. However, a capacitor to ground might be good to get rid of stray RF. Pray if you are so inclined. Otherwise, hope we can make the physics work. Thanks again, JohnT -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:06 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I was wondering the same thing. Has someone added some wiring and subsequently breached the integrity of the shielding effectiveness somewhere? First thing to come to mind is controller interfacing and CTCSS wiring. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
One problem that I have found with pre-threaded 10-32 holes on racks etc, is that they paint them after they thread the holes. If you try to turn a screw in these holes, it will likely twist off. The best way to clean them out is to get a 10-32 tap and put it on the drill chuck and carefully run it in. Some racks that we use at work, have a peice of steel just behind the rack screw holes so you have to be really careful with a drill tap in these or you'll twist the tap off. We use 10-32 Robertson screws, square head type. (A Canadian invention). For racks with slightly larger holes that are not threaded, we use 12-24 self tapping screws. I think the original question on this thread was to find the clips for those racks that have a square hole in them instead of 10-32 holes, and several people have given good suggestions as to where to locate these. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: wd8chl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Most GE and Glenayre cabinets have either 10-32 threaded holes already, or holes designed to be threaded to 10-32. The screws used on Glenayre cabinets are self-tapping 10-32's. Put a 5/16 nutdriver bit on your drill and run 'em in, it'll thread right up. Butch Kanvick wrote: The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts stores but I think they are a little spendey. They do come in different gauge (screw) sizes, I think the GE ones are #10. I have found them in bulk, but they are black and not silver. The model number is stamped on the tinerman clips. McMasters also might be for a source. Butch, KE7FEL/r To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:45:17 +Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone,Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails.Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment.73 and thanks,DougN4TZD Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
Hammond Mfg has them...they are 10 - 32 nuts. They are also available in metric and a few other sizes as well. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: souryatlexcomincdotnet [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:45 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone, Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails. Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment. 73 and thanks, Doug N4TZD Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registered Sex Offenders
Hey Guys. Could we drop this and get back to Repeater technical stuff...??? FCC rules discussion are also forbidden on this site, are they not...? 73 John VE3AMZ Canada. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 2:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registered Sex Offenders The withholding of licenses by the government for criminal offenses typically involves the description of the offense as one involving moral turpitude. An offense of a sexual nature is indicative of moral turpitude. On the other hand, robbing a bank does not invoke this description. Go figure. In a message dated 8/9/2008 11:38:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Paul Plack - Please site the law that forbids felons from having ham radio licenses. You act like you speak with authority - I'd like you to demonstrate it for me please. Bill - W6CBS -- Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Getting a Freq Counter to Read Lower
Kevin, Ramsey used to make an audio multiplier kit which would do what you want. I have one at home but am currently working away from home. The other thing that will work is a Fluke 8060A DMM. That is what I useit has a built in audio freq. counter. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Getting a Freq Counter to Read Lower Hi All, I have a Optoelectronics Handi-Counter Model 2300. I brought it at Dayton in 1995. A great piece of equipment, and I use it alot. Still works fine, except I pulled the NICADs out a few year back, not holding there charge, and never got around to replacing them, works fine from 12v. However I had a need to read the freq of some CTCSS modules, but when I went to use my counter I found that it would only go to 1Mhz. I do not have another counter handy and I understand that I can build a small add-on board to get it to read down below the min reading of the counter. Is a multiplier the correct term? Any ideas on what I can do? If I have to get another counter so be it, but for the number of times I go below 1Mhz I would like to try other ideas first. Thanks Kevin, ZL1KFM. Get Skype and call me for free. sparc_nz Description: Binary data
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr Professional Strip Covers
Fred, I have a complete Mastr Pro UHF repeater...I'd like to get rid of but it's in a desk mate cabinet and I want to keep the cabinet. This one has all the extra shielding for repeater use.. It can be had for the cost of the shippingprobably a transport truck or similar would be the best. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo, Ont - Original Message - From: Fred Seamans To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 5:03 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr Professional Strip Covers I want to locate the station Tx and Rx top and bottom strip covers with the meter plug on the top cover of each for a 150 MHz Tx and Rx and a 450 MHz Tx and Rx. If anybody has these 4 covers and would be willing to pitch them my way, please contact me direct. I do not want the Tx or Rx strips, just the covers that are used in the base station configuration. Thanks Fred W5VAY
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
Yes there is a new version available from Fluke. I have one as well as two of the older versions. One is in my shirt pocket at all times ! If you ever tried to check a dead string of Christmas tree lights, then this thing is what you need. It will show you where the bad bulb is located by not lighting up past the bulb. If you check an outlet and see power on both the hot and the neutral, then the ground is missing. They are very handy in checking a power panel to find the open breaker, or a blown glass fuse. These are one of the best and simplest AC testers ever built. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards Nate wrote: From the link you sent: This product is discontinued. Just to the right of the words, This product is discontinued is a line that says, Fluke suggests... and lists the 1ACII with a link to it. Appears to be just a newer version of the same thing; I didn't read what's different about it. Anyway, they do still have one available. Tom --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote: I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity. http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit edStates Best $20.00 I spent. tom n8ie From the link you sent: This product is discontinued. -- Nate Duehr, WY0X [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Old GE, RCA and Motorola Tube Radios
Skipp, back in the early 60's we used to use a sponge taken from the inside of a defective Vibrator (Only the old timers will remember these things). It worked well to protect your fingers. I still have one of these things around here somewhere :-)) Someone made a tool for removing tubes but it had a plastic piece on the end of each tong and they often melted which smelled very bad. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 5:06 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Old GE, RCA and Motorola Tube Radios Anyone who has or had a tube type GE, RCA or Motorola Radio probably learned the hard way that one can't fudge the time required for the tubes to cool down... before you try and pull them out of the chassis. Tis a finger burn you will remember for a very long time. cheers, s. Thomas Oliver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I still have a bunch of brand new tubes for Mastr Pro Stuff. tom n8ies [Original Message] From: JOHN MACKEY [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 5/23/2008 9:15:53 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: mice and the trusty old GE Master Pro Most of my repeaters are built from Mastr Pro on 6 meters, 2 meters, UHF. They are very good, the receivers are good and the transmitters are good except for the early UHF (with the tube tripler). -- Original Message -- Received: Fri, 23 May 2008 04:33:13 PM PDT From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: mice and the trusty old GE Master Pro Re: mice and the GE Master Pro What you didn't say was how the GE Master Pro in most typical cases probably kept working as normal. Hard as heck to kill a GE Master Pro I'd still have a number of them in service except I have to pay the site power bill and those tx strip tubes love to stay warm 24/7. The Master Pro Receivers are still very much killer good for current repeater projects. The front ends are very stout and the design is a well known solid peformer. I hate to see the receivers go in the dumpster... cheers, skipp The Later Mastr Pro GE series base stations used a slanted heat sink for the 12.6 and 10 V pass regulators. The chassis formed the back, and there was a cover on the front making a conduit for forced air from the 4 inch muffin fan. Poor field mouse got into the slanted heat sink, lost his grip, and went head first into the muffin fan - - did not decapitate but did trap him there and stall the fan - found the mummified remains some time later - then there are stories of a micor repeater loosing the 10 v return in the exciter - due to mouse urine destroying the trace on the PCB and various stories of stench. Best Memorial Day wishes to all, 73, Steve NU5D Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1458 - Release Date: 5/21/2008 7:21 AM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008
Scott, missed seeing you guys there this year...hope you can go next year . There was no rain but some wind this year. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008 I asked my XYL if the Repeater-Builder group would qualify for one of Hamvention's reduced-price Club spaces?? ($100 for 4 spaces) My kids will be old enough next year to allow for my wife and I to tend some tables. If we do get a few club spaces, we can all have a central location to meet other board members, plus sell a few items on the club table without having to pay $70 per space!!! As we have done in the past, we can bring our canopy that will cover 3 spaces, so we would have shelter. I already have a banner that says Repeater-Builder on it. We'll just need to be sure to make it look like a club booth and not a commercial tailgating spot. We have tried the dinner thing in the past with not real good results, but maybe a meeting tent would be a good idea. I will try to get 4 club spaces next year and see how that goes. I will let everyone know how I make out early next spring. Comments? Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008 So you were there too, Jeff??? That does it - next year, WE (or at least *I*) absolutely NEED to coordinate a meet location and time, so we can put faces to names! I'm so frustrated I missed everyone! Maybe next year I'll float a mini-blimp over my head with my call on it... kinda like KE8T- who had the quagi on his hardhat. (NOT!!!) Apparently my callsign mametag wasn't enough to git 'r' done. hehehe Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo It was great to meet up with Bob, Dave, Jeff and everyone else who made Dayton 2008 a lot of fun. I kept trying to encourage Bob to buy more surplus radio gear... Where were you Sunday? NO6B bought lunch (brats) but you were nowhere to be found... My back hurts from hauling a near weight-limit suitcase back to the left/west coast so you know I fell off my 12-Step Junker Enders Program for a short time. I'm both grateful and disappointed I don't live within driving distance of the Dayton Hamvention. In a moment of weakness (or perhaps utter stupidity?), on Sunday I bought roughly 16000 electrolytic capacitors, 1000 ferrite chokes, a few hundred toggle switches, a few hundred LED's, and a few hundred other random components and connectors, all new in bags or on tape reels, for $100. I almost escaped with the truck mostly-empty. My XYL was overjoyed with my last-minute purchase...NOT. --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1454 - Release Date: 5/19/2008 7:44 AM Yahoo! Groups Links -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.10/1421 - Release Date: 5/7/2008 5:23 PM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna
Hey Ron,How about setting your Font back to at least 10 for all the senior citizens who like to read your stuff :-)) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:34 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna I would recommend not using a 12.5 kHz spacing freq in this case of a control receiever, a receiver that is only 12.5 kHz away from your regular repeater input. With typical good FM analog receivers these would both have overlapping passbands and an input signal on the repeater input would interfer with the control input. With som many using IC type DTMF decoders any interference, just over lapping distorted voice would hender the decoder decoding. A typical UHF duplexer would have a notch wide enough for a freq +/-25 kHz away. Know this is going to be another repeaters input, but with some research could find is close in distance to you. I have used control UHF freq that are 6.25 kHz spacing, but these were in the 446 range and on separate antenna. Just had access to this. I used this freq to give some added security. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 10:24 PM, Laryn Lohman wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, John Transue [EMAIL PROTECTED] . wrote: Laryn K8TVZ, So, if I understand, I should put a splitter after the pre-amp, and the control frequency should be a split channel. Does this mean that I use half way between two channels? Right, one of the 12.5 kc. in-between channels would be less likely to have something on them. Another question, who makes a good splitter, and how can I know I am getting a good splitter? Well, I've seen 50 ohm splitters quite often at hamfests. I don't have a good brand name to point you to. I am, however, using a 75 ohm TV splitter. Purists will hate this, but especially, if you are after a preamp, I don't see this as a big deal. It works just fine here with no measured loss in repeater receiver sensitivity through the system. Use quality coax and fittings. I've found that RG142 works reasonably well with the TV splitters since it has a solid center conductor. If you are not using a preamp, then you really need to do things right, using a proper splitter, and still you may lose some sensitivity. Some of you are saying, where's the quality in that splitter scheme? Well, experimentally I've found it works well here, so after initial measurements showed me that things were still the same, I'll tend to stay with what works, but ready to ditch the whole thing if needed and go another route. Sometimes quality takes the form of performance, not looks or perfection. If system sensitivity had suffered it wouldn't be there for more than 15 minutes. Laryn K8TVZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: VXR-7000U programming cable
Matt, There are two types of so called RJ-45 plugs. One is for solid wire and the other is for stranded wire. It is important to have a good quality crimper. For example if you are using AMP plugs you must use an AMP crimper. Any other type will not do the job. BTWRJ-45 is an electrical spec. They are more properly called an 8 pin modular plug. For example, RJ-45 uses only pins 4 and 5. however that seems to be the slang term used to describe them. All of this stuff is described in the EIA spec, the Belcore spec and DOC interconnect spec here in Canada John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Matt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 10:56 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: VXR-7000U programming cable Turns out the RJ-45 plug was not crimped fully enough to make contact to the wires. My bad. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was wondering if anyone had a schematic of the VPL-1 programming cable or knew of a schematic of one that works? I would be thrilled if someone with a VPL-1 could take off the cover and take a hi-res photo of it. I tried 3 different designs of programing cables and so far nothing. These program my FTL-2011s fine, but with the repeater no dice. Am I missing something? Is there a switch I have to throw somewhere? Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Off Topic (but with on topic questions): NTIA propaganda
Chuck, No they have not switched to UHFdunno where you got that info? I use an antenna here and still receive all of the VHF stations in Toronto and Buffalo. Erie is a problem for us with a high power channel 13 station in this area so Ch 12 is unwatchable. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:55 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Off Topic (but with on topic questions): NTIA propaganda All of the Buffalo, Erie, Toronto and Rochester TV stations have gone to UHF. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Dan Hancock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 6:50 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Off Topic (but with on topic questions): NTIA propaganda It was my undeerstanding that all digital TV would be on UHF, no VHF and that the VHF spectrum would be re-allocated. Am I in error? Dan N8DJP --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, MCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Has anyone else here seen the bull put out by NTIA on https://www.dtv2009.gov/FAQ.aspx = 1. What is the digital television transition? At midnight on February 17, 2009, all full-power television stations in the United States will stop broadcasting in analog and switch to 100% digital broadcasting. Digital broadcasting promises to provide a clearer picture and more programming options and will free up airwaves for use by emergency responders. = will free up airwaves for use by emergency responders.??? The TV spectrum is being freed up by ANALOG stations and the SAME SPECTRUM will be reused by DIGITAL stations. The only spectrum being freed up by TV for PS use is on the 764 MHz + band. (two TV channels, I believe) and has nothing to do with a transition to digital. The same could have been achieved by simply moving those analog stations to other channels. An analog allocation is 6 MHz. A digital allocation is 6 MHz. How is digital saving spectrum? As there are some broadcast types here, maybe someone can explain the technology used where X analog stations using 6 MHz each will be more efficient by the same number of stations using 6 MHz each. Is this that new math they are using? I would like to apply the same to 2M to get more spectrum out of it. If I take my 16 kHz analog signal and make it 16 kHz digital, will we be able to fit more repeaters in the band? (aside from the fact most will have no users) Joe M. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Tubes...?
I wonder why the seller claims to have Phillips tubes when the picture clearly shows Rogers tubes ? Rogers made tubes in Toronto for over 50 years. Ted Rogers Sr invented the batteryless radio when he developed tubes that would work with an AC filament. His Ham call was 9RB and his radio station later became CFRB...on the air to-day ...still...1010 Khz The RB part stands for Rogers Batteryless For the full story see the Hammond Museum of radio web site. www.hammondmuseumofradio.org 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jesse Lloyd To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 6:14 PM Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Oxygen Free and stranded audio cables. Yes, unlike cheap imitations which give cubic audio quality, hahah. On 9/3/07, Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you really need a good chuckle (unless you threw out your tube stock recently) go to ebay and search for a 12ax7. For example http://cgi.ebay.com/Matched-New-Pair-of-Rare-Philips-mC-12AX7-Tubes_W0QQitemZ330162061283QQihZ014QQcategoryZ50598QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I sure hope he packs them well! 73's Skip WB6YMH Well Skip I was surprised that you didn't snap them up at the -Buy It Now- price, if only for their spherical audio quality. heheheheheh Laryn K8TVZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Simple COR PTT to Echolink serial port interface
Ron, did you mean www.echolink.org ??? 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:07 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Simple COR PTT to Echolink serial port interface Eric, At www.echolink.com, the echolink folks, sell an interface board for it. It is a small ~3x3 board with serial port to the computer and I/O for the repeater. They provide tx an rx audio and ptt. Think also COS. Been about 5 years since I played with ours. It is still running 24/7. The control board has a DTMF decoder and allows one thru the repeater access nodes, turn on/off connections, enable/disable the echolink, etc. I think it cost about $50. We use one here and it simplified things greatly. The only problem was the audio...the computers often are not at ground and hum can be a problem. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2007/08/19 Sun PM 12:15:23 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Simple COR PTT to Echolink serial port interface Good Afternoon, Has anyone come up with a simple circuit to tie a repeater controller's port to a PC's serial port for Echolink? I have customized a few Rigblaster type units in the past to add COS funtionality, but the more I have looked at them, the more I think they are a waste of money. A simple circuit consisting of a few parts should be enough to adapt RTS or DTR for a COS signal to the controller, and the controller's PTT to the PC's DSR or DCD input. Most of the commercial interface boxes don't really offer any advantage to the audio paths, so hooking the sound card directly to the controller's audio in/out paths shouldn't be a problem. In the past I've simply tied a radio's COS to the PC's DCD input via an isolation diode and current-limiting resistor with great success, and used the DTR to trigger an NPN transistor across the radio's PTT, but obviously things are reversed on a controller. I was figuring I could use RTS as the controller's COS signal, and set the active hi/lo on the controller accordingly. For the PTT signal, I might need to invert the PTT output of the controller to control DSC or DCD in the right active direction. Anyone have any suggestions or documented circuits before I embark on this project? Eric KE2D Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] mastr II exciter
I recently purchased a Mastr II VHF station and it has a PLL Tx exciter. Is it feasible to change that out with a normal P.M. Xtal type exciter. This one is part number PL19D423249 G2 and the one I'm looking for is a PL19D430230 G1 - G4 If this is possible are there other wiring changes to be made ? I presume that the Icoms are different too.these Icoms have 8 pins and my manual says that the other board uses 6 pin Icoms. 73, John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
[Repeater-Builder] GE Tone module needed
I'm looking for a couple of 131.8 HZ , part number PL19B205280-G14 GE tone module's for a GE Exec or Mastr Pro. These are the red modules with a 7 pin plug on one end. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
[Repeater-Builder] GE Tone module needed
I'm looking for a couple of 131.8 HZ , part number PL19B205280-G14 GE tone module's for a GE Exec or Mastr Pro. These are the red modules with a 7 pin plug on one end. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
[Repeater-Builder] Com Spec TS-32HB
Does anyone have the data sheet on a TS-32HB CTCSS unit ? It is a very small unit with a 4 and an 8 pin header, and a 5 section dip switch to set the tones. It looks very different from the normal TS-32 Com Spec has it in their Fax back list but I can't get my fax to receive calls manually. They don't have it as a regular download. 73 John VE3AMZ
[Repeater-Builder] Wire source
While my wife was wandering around a Jo-Anne's fabric store on a recent trip to Akron Ohio, I noticed that they sell short length's of what appears to be copper wire. They had tinned, enamelled, and bare from size 16 to size 26 in lengths of about 10 feet or so. Maybe someone in the US could check this stuff out to see what it really is. We don't have this store in Canada. If this is copper wire, it would be useful in re-winding coils etc. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Acronyms-a little OT
Eric, the Kids my grandchildren, use LOL as Laugh out loud in their E mails 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 10:07 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Acronyms-a little OT Doug, Here's my take: AFAIK = As Far As I Know FWIW = For What It's Worth IMHO = In My Humble Opinion BTW = By The Way FYI = For Your Information YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary LOL = Lots Of Luck (often misused as a meaningless closer) 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Doug W7FDF Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 6:54 AM To: Repeater-Builder Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Acronyms-a little OT In the eight to nine years I've been involved with computers and electronic mail and having been licensed since 1959, I have read [and still read everyday] many a article generated here on the largest Amateur Radio related Yahoo list, Repeater-Builder and other technical resources. I even contributed the original Repeater Builders Check List a couple of years ago to the RBTIP http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/ http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/ , and surprised I didn't use any of the well known acronyms used today. With over 3600 members on the Repeater-Builder list, its interesting to see some of the acronyms used in the exchange of the many emails that are related to the technical side of our great hobby. There is one acronym that for the life of me, I just cannot figure out what it means: AFAIK. I recently figured out the often used acronym, PITA, pain in the ass, which has been thrown upon many a Ham Radio operator, myself included. No, I am not yet retired and do not have lots of free time on my hands and, I even have an ongoing repeater related project [remote control of a HF and repeater station via the Internet] to keep me out of trouble. So here's the challenge. Do you know the meaning of the following acronyms: FWIW, IMHO, BTW, FYI,YMMV, LOL.I am not going to touch the Q codes!! Some answers can be found doing a Google search or hook onto the Wikipedia library and see what happens. Good Luck and if there are any others I may have missed, please forward so we all can be enlightened...73!, my favorite acronym!! Doug Fitts W7FDF Vail, Arizona U.S.A. 927.850/R PL 114.8 hz IRLP node 3850.since 2001
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need to find a product to develop goodwill at a tower site(s)
The simplest method is to use a weatherproof door opener receiver and regular door opener transmitters to open a gate. There are 10 dip switches in the transmitter so you can come up with a very secure code. Then issue a door opener TX to each person requiring site access. It's Understood that the receiver would operate a relay and turn on the power to the motor to open the gate. Check this site: http://www.stanley-garage-door-opener.com/ They have stand alone receivers that will work well. I build modified transmitters for a local company and they can select up to 10 different doors to be opened with a rotary switch ( 1 - 10 ). John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ont. - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 3:24 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Need to find a product to develop goodwill at a tower site(s) |I have been following this thread with some interest, because the | suggestions vary between relative extremes of cost. complexity, and | practicality. As I understand the concept, the originator seeks to improve | his relationship with the site owner, and has offered to improve site | security and ease of access- two goals which can be mutually exclusive. | | The commercial sites with which I am most familiar generally have three | barriers. The first is a simple pipe gate at the head of the access road, | to keep out vehicles driven by sightseers. It usually has multiple | padlocks, since the area may also be used by ranchers, oil people, and | forestry personnel. This gate is strictly mechanical, and it won't keep out | hikers and mountain bikers. | | The next barrier is a chain-link fence surrounding the site. Sometimes | topped with barbed wire, it keeps out all but the most determined intruders. | Since the gate must allow a service truck to pass, it is usually | hand-operated and padlocked. Electrically-operated gates are seldom used | here because of the climate and the amount of maintenance such gates | require. The fence is intended to keep out vandals and mischief-makers. | | The final barrier is the door to the radio shack, which is usually steel and | may have an electric lock with a keypad or proximity card sensor, but it may | just be padlocked. The prox card with a keypad to accept the technician's | PIN is the most desirable, since any one user can be added or removed from | the access list at any time, often remotely, and there is a permanent record | of each person's comings and goings. | | I recently priced an electrically-operated vehicle gate that was suitable | for a remote site, and found that it would cost about $80,000 to purchase | and install. This is much more than a simple panel of fencing that rolls | back and forth in a track- it is equal in security to the fence itself, and | that makes a big difference! | | My local police department uses a rolling gate to secure the back parking | lot where the cruisers and motorcycles are parked. The gate can be opened | by the dispatcher, but it normally is opened by a garage-door transmitter | clipped to the visor in each vehicle. The gate closes automatically a | minute or so after it is opened. The lot is under video camera | surveillance, so anyone who climbs over the fence or the gate would be seen | and could be apprehended within seconds. This is quite different from a | mountaintop site which might take hours to reach, and which probably is not | monitored with video cameras. Such gates are the weak link in a security | fence, so they should be designed and built well. | | Finally, I have to wonder how I would be improving my standing with a site | owner, if my proposal called for purchasing and installing unique radios, | microphones, cables, antennas, etc., in every vehicle in the fleet that | might need to go to a remote site. That's a lot of dollars and manhours, | with relatively little value added. I really like the padlock idea, but I | could live with the garage door opener concept- providing that there is an | existing gate operator. Electric gates at mountaintop sites is a costly | solution, and the preventive maintenance can be a nightmare. But hey, maybe | this site owner is a cost-no-object kind of guy... | | 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY | | | -Original Message- | From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com | [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Milt | Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 11:32 AM | To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com | Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Need to find a product to develop | goodwill at a tower site(s) | | Here's an easy idea that is currently in use. A police department wanted a | way to open a garage door from the cruiser, other than calling the station | and having them push a button. Solution was to take an old radio (Maxtrac | in thsis case) laying around, install it into a metal box, bring out the | PL/DPL decode indication to drive a relay and install at the site. No |
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Power-Pole connectors NOT for power
I too have used the SB-50 power pole connectors and they are GREAT ! All of my DC stuff here is standardized around the SB-50's I have installed them on my Son's big John Deere tractors to power accesory equipment, on his dairy farm Nortel uses the SB-50's (Black) on their fibre equipment and access nodes. This eq. runs on -48 volts The 30 amp units at times seem to have a somewhat weaker spring and recently I had some that were made by AMP and the spring in them seemed to be quite a bit stiffermade the connectors harder to pull apart. Soldering these 30 amp units can cause problems if solder or flux moves down on to the surface of the bladeso I only crimp them now and no further problems with that. The crimp tool from West Mountain Radio works great for the 15, 30 45 amp connectors...AES handles this tool...I just pick up one in Orlando, cost just under 50 dollars. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario. - Original Message - From: Paul Metzger [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 11:31 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Power-Pole connectors NOT for power I second that. I myself have found these little power pole connectors (which are recommended by emergency groups) to be a bit too delicate for me. And if improperly built, will have little or almost no contact tension at all. Honestly I was a little shocked when I started seeing these little buggers marketed for emergency amateur radio purposes. The bright side I see in that is everyone can connect with minimal fuss. But if the connectors were improperly built, I wouldn't be surprised to see a few of these tapped up during a real disaster in order to keep them from falling out of their other mating half. For years, I myself have utilized the larger SB 50A Anderson connectors on my primary Amateur Radio (TS-450 / IC-910) and Solar system at my home QTH. Now try and pull those babies apart. Talk about contact tension. You can't accidently tug on you power harness and pull these apart. One more thing, my jaw dropped when I had built my K2-100W. It uses a chassis mount variant of the tiny power pole connectors out from the rear of the unit. Well, just my two cents. Paul Metzger K6EH --- On Mar 24, 2007, at 06:42, Tedd Doda wrote: On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 23:01:17 -, skipp025 wrote: I try not to use the small powerpoles any more.. the smaller made power-poles don't have adequate contact tension/pressure and have been real trouble makers for me. *Smaller* being what Skipp? I've had excellent results using the 30 amp contacts on equipment that pushes the current rating of these to the limit (and then some). Tedd Doda, VE3TJD Lazer Audio and Electronics Baden, Ontario, Canada www.ve3tjd.com (personal) www.eraradio.ca (Linked repeater system) Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] RF Sampler source
Ridge Equipment, Eldersburg, Md, has an excellent RF sampler, made by Microlab model FXR adjustable signal sampler, 50 Mhz - 12 Ghz. 50 ohms, insertion loss 0.2 Db Silver plate finish It has an N female and N male on the through port and an adjustable pick-up link with a BNC on that port. I purchased three of them at Dayton a year ago for $10.00 each They show them on their web site for $14.99 here is a link to their site: http://www.ridgeequipment.com/store/attenuators.html 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed
Mathew, I think the picture of the coil layout is wrong on the Repeater Builders site T 105 is next to the metering jack and then 106, 107, 108 are in that row with 108 being in the position shown for 105 in the picture. The MVP and the Exec. 11 have the same layout according to my manuals. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Mathew Quaife To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:19 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed Do you know if there is a layout somewhere that will tell which coils are which. From the darwing, the MVP does not match the location of the Exec II? Thanks. Mathew Thomas Oliver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Go here http://www.repeater-builder.com/ge/mvp/mvptuningindex.html MVP's are use same exciter. Most all the test points one of your multimeter probes goes to ground. tom [Original Message] From: n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 11/25/2006 1:59:38 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed I am in the process of aligning up a VHF exciter from an Exec II mobile radio and could use some assistance. I do not have a manual or test set for the radios. I need to know the layout of the coils on the exciter, and then want to use an analog meter to begin the alignment procedure. Anyone able to assist me with this. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links -- Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] feed through caps
Skycraft Surplus in Winter Park Fla has them. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 5:49 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] feed through caps Anyone have a good source for screw mount chassis feed through caps? Some place without a big minimum order. Need to bring a few more signals in and out of my RF boxes. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need source for RF RCA connectors
GaryI know what you mean...you'll find the missing stuff someday when you don't really need it :-)) John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 10:48 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need source for RF RCA connectors Shortening Phono plug center pinreal easy. Findappropriate sizedrill bit that fits into center pin of phono plug. Mount drill bit horizontally in your bench vise. Adjust phono plug on drill bit until your happy with center pin length. Use a jewelers sawto cut unwanted center pin length off. Do not cut drill bit. Only use it as a length guide and support. Smooth and bevel new edge with a real fine file. Presto ! Do a bunch of them in one sitting then put them in a special bag labeled phono plug shorty's. Then do as I do, misplace the bag, never to be found again. Gary K2UQ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] midland 13-509 tx freq stability... cap change?
If you decide to use an 85 deg C oven, you must get the crystal cut for that temperature. I have plenty of GE ovens here if you need one6 or 12 volts. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 11:51 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] midland 13-509 tx freq stability... cap change? Or use a Motorola crystal oven @ 85 degrees C ... Neil - WA6KLA Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] midland 13-509 tx freq stability... cap change? Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 08:43:33 -0700 At 5/23/2006 07:20, you wrote: One other thing you might try - tape a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor to the side of the crystal and put 12 VDC across it. Not a pretty sight, and If you're going to heat the crystal, might as well use something that will keep it at a more or less stable temperature: a 50 ohms 50 degree C PTC thermistor. Digikey has them for $1.68 each (manufacturer part # RL3006-50-50-25-PTO). Desolder one of the leads solder the disk directly onto one side of the crystal, ground the crystal case apply a regulated voltage to the other side. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Mastr-Pro CTCSS
Does anyone have the manual or the schematic for the Mastr-Pro CTCSS board 4EK16A10 My manuals have the board layout but the schematic is not included. John VE3AMZ John J. Riddell, VE3AMZ451 Cedarcliffe Dr.,Waterloo, Ontario, CanadaN2K 2J1 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RC-1000 Controller question
NateMy guess is that the A D refer to row 4 on your TT pad. A is beside 3 and D is beside #. Hope this helps... 73 John VE3AMZ. - Original Message - From: frostbitnome [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:13 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] RC-1000 Controller question Our club has a Maggiore Hi-Pro repeater with an RC-1000 controller. Question: I have the RC-1000 manual, version 4.3 dated July 1, 1995. It escapes me how to access the controller via DTMF to do some changes. I am confused what the A and D control and user codes are. 1. I want to be able to turn the repeater on and off 2. I want to disable the CW ID'er The repeater sits 40 miles from town on a mountain. Can someone tell me the sequence in plain english on what it is I need to do to obtain these two tasks, which I want to do from my home base via DTMF. You may email me directly at home if you wish. Thanks, Nate, KL3NP Nome, Alaska [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dayton check list -as ammended for 2006
Ted, I hope you'll be there this year...last year you didn't come and it didn't RAIN ! :-)) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 3:11 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Dayton check list -as ammended for 2006 1. Dayton rule book as ammended for 2006 - with complete do's and donts while attending the hamfest and specifically noting the penalties for transgressing ANY of the regulations. 2. The complete Ohio State Manual fire regulations as ammended for 2006. 3. Over priced tickets and space rental tags 4. Parka - with hood and artic mittens 5. Galoshes or waders depending on the day (a suggestion was made last year about bringing 33 gal trash bags to use as rain coats for the optomists who don't think it will rain.) 6. Dry socks 4 pair and other bits of apparel that may get wet. 7. Tent or canopy with several hundred pounds of lead weights to combat the gentle 45 Knot Dayton breeze. 8. Sleeping accomodations within 75 miles of Hara Arena and sleeping pills, eye shade, ear muffs to combat the drunken brawl in the next room or possibly in the same room. 9. 14 handie talkies, pagers, cellphones, GPS, Video Camera, PDA or Blackberry, and belt large enuf to accomodate them all at the same time. 9(a). Bandolero with spare batteries for all this electronic paraphernalia. 10. Goofy hat with antennas sticking out for at least 4 bands extra credit for Beam. 11. Laminated Dayton Hamfest I.D. badge 12. scrolling electronic sign front and back telling anyone and everyone who you are what freqs you are monitoring and your email address. 13. Bail Money 14. Map of hamfest grounds with all portapotties marked in red. 15. Snow chains - you never can tell in Dayton. 16. SPF 55 sunscreen - you never can tell when your in Dayton. 17 - Laser transit and 100 ft tape measure to align your tables to avoid reprimand from the alignment police. Heaven forbid you should creep over the painted yellow lines and encroach on the footpath-driveway which you can't drive on anyway after 8 a.m. 18 - Despite all this try to have a fun time. Ted Bleiman K9MDM MDM Radio Ltd - 1629-B N. 31 st Ave Melrose Park, IL 60160 708.681.0300 fax 708.681.9800 web http://www.mdmradio.com - Check it now!! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Battery load Bank
Some time ago, someone was looking for Battery Load Bank info for testing the capacity of batteries. I have now located the manual that I had, for a commercial unit and can copy it is required. John J. Riddell, VE3AMZ451 Cedarcliffe Dr.,Waterloo, Ontario, CanadaN2K 2J1 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Simplex repeater Controller
But Ken..Here in British North America, A.K.A. Canada our money is printed 1/2 of each bill in French ! John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Simplex repeater Controller At 08:50 AM 4/27/2006 -0600, you wrote: ..that is parrot type it listens and then retransmits what it heard. ---Sounds like a Liberal! --- This is America, dammit! Speak Spanish! Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of questions about hard line
The MF or Muti Freq. tones were even numbers 700 + 900, 700 + 1100, 900 + 1100 for 1, 2, 3 then they used 1300 1500 1700 with the other low group for the rest. This was known as In band signalling and is what the operators used on their tandem trunks (Inter office circuits) to place long distance calls. An idle circuit had 2600 tone on it also known as SF (Signalling frequency) 73 John VE3AMZ (Retired Bell Canada) - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of questions about hard line Hi, I believe the term Multi-Frequency was used to describe the early ATT inter office toll dialing scheme. The tones used were not the tones you hear on your telephone - but another completely different group. If I dig around here far enough, I may still have the information. Mike, WA6ILQ, may be able to detail this better than I or, perhaps, a retired ATT or Western Electric systems engineer. Neil - WA6KLA Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of questions about hard line Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 14:08:09 -0700 And Touch Tone (tm) is a registered trademark of ATT. Everyone else has to use DTMF or MF depending on which side of the planet you are on. On 4/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Of course !! CG = Channel Guard - General Electric PL = Private Line - Motorola QC = Quiet Channel - RCA All are commonly referred to by CTCSS Neil - WA6KLA Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Z Matcher tuning info.pdf
Here is the tuning info for these things John J. Riddell, VE3AMZ451 Cedarcliffe Dr.,Waterloo, Ontario, CanadaN2K 2J1 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Z Matcher tuning info.pdf Description: Adobe PDF document
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for N connector jam nuts
Jeff, Try Mendelson's in Dayton or Skycraft Surplus in Winter park Florida. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jeff DePolo WN3A [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 3:53 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for N connector jam nuts I'm trying to find about 40 hex jam nuts for bulkhead N connectors. The thread on N connectors is 5/8-24, and most of the jam nuts are 3/4 hex, roughly 1/8 thick. I'm trying to find stainless steel. I've tried a number of places on line, including McMaster-Carr and others, but came up empty at all but one place, and they quoted me $10.50 EACH!???!? Anyone have a favorite vendor that they could recommend? --- Jeff Jeff DePolo WN3A - [EMAIL PROTECTED] Broadcast and Communications Consultant Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Aviation Problem Returns, Need Some Help, or a Tuned Stub
David, the "Fix" for a Maggiore repeater working in to a duplexer becoming a "comb generator" is to put a small antenna tuner between the TX and the duplexer. We fixed a problem here by doing that. The "Z" matcher that was discussed on here while back would work as well. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: david vanhorn To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 1:19 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Aviation Problem Returns, Need Some Help, or a Tuned Stub I think I'm the guy about the filter, and the offer stands, but I agree, you need to see where in the chain it's being generated. BTW: Since I was up there last, I took our old maggiore TX off the air, and it was similar to yours, slightest adjustment makes it a comb generator. Also, the club 220 machine is sititng on my bench, and it behaves the same way. Good job on migrating away from those things. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Aviation Problem Returns, Need Some Help, or a Tuned Stub
Dave, we did use a Spec Analyzer. to find this problem. Good luck 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 5:13 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Aviation Problem Returns, Need Some Help, or a Tuned Stub --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John J. Riddell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: David, the Fix for a Maggiore repeater working in to a duplexer becoming a comb generator is to put a small antenna tuner between the TX and the duplexer. We fixed a problem here by doing that. Tuning the transmitter fixes, filters mask. Unfortunately without a spectrum analyzer, you'll never know it's in comb mode. I've done this on three systems, two VHF and one 220, and they all act about the same. Tune the TX for max output, and you'll end up on or very near comb mode. Tune with an SA, and you can see the comb mode go away, as well as another mode with lots of noise within +/- 100 khz of the carrier go away, while getting to the same output power. The Z matcher that was discussed on here while back would work as well. Possibly, it also acts as a filter to some extent. The problems I am seeing are in the multiplier chain and many stages isolate them from the output, so I doubt they are sensitive to load impedance. There may also be spurs that you can get from the finals too, NOTHING would surprise me in these things. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton Hamvention
Now Hold On guys.. I've been there every year since 1973never missed one ! and we'll be there this year :-)) This will be year 34 As a somewhat old Ham, I really appreciate them putting some seating at the end of each row in the flea market. I do miss the big tent at the left rear corner though 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 12:28 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton Hamvention Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've been attending Dayton since 1974. Man... I thought I was an old fart... (I actually might be one) this explains much Kevin. You (and I need professional help). This year, I've had two folks contact me to see if I had gotten my tickets yet, as they have not received any word. I'll start shaking the trees from my end of the pipe to see what's up. They need to be more prompt about communications, or they are going to piss a bunch of folks off. Scotty, did we get our tickets/spaces yet? (we hadn't the last time we conversed about it) I'll turn up the heat and see who/what cooks out. With that being said, Last year had shown some much needed change in the way the event was run. IMHO It was the best Dayton Hamvention in 15 years. Kevin Custer W3KKC Looking forward to year 32... Thank you Kevin..! Man you must be old like me... cheers, skipp Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching PL on and of on a TS-32
I had a similar problem here and I put a relay on the audio line that shorts the audio output when COS drops.works great. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 4:13 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Switching PL on and of on a TS-32 I had a similar problem when my TS-32, only mine made a noise when the PL first was switched on. I also wanted the PL to follow the CAS so there was no PL on the repeater tail. I turned my TS-32 on all the time and switched the CTCSS in and out with a 2n Transistor driving a Mini Relay. It works great. Good Luck. KA2AJH Jim Wellsville, NY Jim KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 2:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching PL on and of on a TS-32 I decided to try the method someone suggested for keying the repeater transmitter encode PL on and off with active COS. I switched the ground connection on and off to key the TS-32 PL deck. This works, except that when the tone turns off I get a sound that is best described as squeege as it shuts off. I assume this is the oscillator loosing voltage and the tone changing frequency. Anybody else have this problem? I'm about to just go back to switching the PL audio line and leaving the TS-32 on all the time.. 73, Joe, K1ike Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Coy, AC0Y
Coy, can you call us here in Orlando...please... 73 John VE3AMZ /4 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Synthesizer
Ron, I have the complete manual for the GLB and I still use one here ! The offset crystal is: F offset= (150 - Rcvr 1st IF) / 6 in Mhz 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Dr. Ron Johnson To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:41 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Synthesizer Folks, I wonder if anyone out there has any information on the offset crystal needed for a GLB synthesizer. I am trying to interface an old GLB to my old Motorola Motrac (U63HHT). Its an old boatanchor. Trying to replicate my early days on 2 meters when I ran this setup. But I have lost all my documentation. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron WB4GWA No virus found in this outgoing message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.10/262 - Release Date: 2/16/2006 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] DB Z-Matcher
Someone in our area has three Z Matchers for sale but the price is a bit high. Does anyone out there have a suggestion as to a fair price for these units ? As I recall they were in the area of 80 - 90 dollars several years ago. John J. Riddell, VE3AMZ451 Cedarcliffe Dr.,Waterloo, Ontario, CanadaN2K 2J1 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Cheap Tunnel Heatsink
The element out of an Electric furnace works well for very large currents John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:01 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Cheap Tunnel Heatsink --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Brett [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Variable 1 amp to 100 amp. 12v to 60volt. Brett Not on that heatsink... 6000W? Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
