Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-26 Thread Rich Everett
Regarding press for sale:  Michael Vaughn
Good to know about the apples.
Can you send me a email directly to my address and I'll forward you some 
photo's.  If your shipping your apples out, then this system could be good for 
you, we press and bottle ourselves, sometimes in small quanities and sometimes 
we'll go all day long.

My email is:  everettfamilyf...@comcast.net
On Nov 25, 2013, at 9:02 AM, Fleming, William w...@exchange.montana.edu 
wrote:

 Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width and 
 orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
 While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our 
 latitude here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14’ drive row 
 take maximum advantage of the sun.
 I’ve seen an online calculator for this but don’t recall where. My bet is 
 google knows though.
 To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a weaker 
 side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down the central 
 leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired height.
 I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.
  
 Bill Fleming
 Montana State University
 Western Ag Research Center
 580 Quast Lane
 Corvallis, MT 59828
  
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
 To: Apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
  
 Makes sense to me now. 
  
 I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had is, 
 Why is it important to not cut the leader?  Seems like an idea situation to 
 me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are self supporting 
 and cut the top out every year to two to control the height of the trees.  
 Another thought is that the dwarf trees are really large trees, in my mind - 
 10+ feet.  Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about 7 feet would be idea, 
 planted a foot apart - wild thoughts...
  
 
 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
 Hugh,
  
 What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately 
 similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings, 
 with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees 
 per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight 
 dwarf rootstocks.
  
 I have a few sloped and curving fields that don’t lend themselves to 
 post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.
  
 Steven Bibula
  
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM
 
 To: Apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
  
 Steven,
 Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems? 
  
 
 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is 
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That 
 is, does anyone have experience with this.
  
 Steven Bibula
  
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 To: Apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
  
 Rich,
 I'm curious about your location and elevation.
  
 
 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
 powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
 juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest 
 apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
  
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:
  
 
 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look 
 sometime.
  
 Art Kelly
 Kelly Orchards
 Acton, Maine
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
  
 
 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
 plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick 
 friendly fruiting wall.
  
 Steven Bibula

Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-25 Thread Fleming, William
Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width and 
orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our latitude 
here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14' drive row take 
maximum advantage of the sun.
I've seen an online calculator for this but don't recall where. My bet is 
google knows though.
To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a weaker 
side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down the central 
leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired height.
I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Makes sense to me now.

I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had is, 
Why is it important to not cut the leader?  Seems like an idea situation to 
me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are self supporting and 
cut the top out every year to two to control the height of the trees.  Another 
thought is that the dwarf trees are really large trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  
Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about 7 feet would be idea, planted a 
foot apart - wild thoughts...

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
Hugh,

What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately 
similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings, 
with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees per 
acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight dwarf 
rootstocks.

I have a few sloped and curving fields that don't lend themselves to 
post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM

To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Steven,
Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is about 
Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That is, does 
anyone have experience with this.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Rich,
I'm curious about your location and elevation.

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett 
reofar...@gmail.commailto:reofar...@gmail.com wrote:
I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest apple 
tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly 
kelly...@metrocast.netmailto:kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look sometime.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, any 
thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My thinking: 
If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, maybe it is 
better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go with fewer 
trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last longer, need 
less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick friendly 
fruiting wall.

Steven Bibula
Plowshares Community Farm
236 Sebago Lake Road
Gorham ME 04038
207.239.0442tel:207.239.0442
www.plowsharesmaine.comhttp://www.plowsharesmaine.com/

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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-25 Thread Hugh Thomas
Bill,
I heard of this technique, crop and flop where the central leader bends
on its own. Can't see a problem with helping the process along with some
string,
Thanks for the ideas,
Hugh


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 9:02 AM, Fleming, William
w...@exchange.montana.eduwrote:

 Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width
 and orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.

 While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our
 latitude here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14’ drive
 row take maximum advantage of the sun.

 I’ve seen an online calculator for this but don’t recall where. My bet is
 google knows though.

 To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a
 weaker side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down
 the central leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired
 height.

 I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.



 *Bill Fleming*

 *Montana State University*

 *Western Ag Research Center*

 *580 Quast Lane*

 *Corvallis, MT 59828*



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM

 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Makes sense to me now.



 I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had
 is, Why is it important to not cut the leader?  Seems like an idea
 situation to me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are
 self supporting and cut the top out every year to two to control the height
 of the trees.  Another thought is that the dwarf trees are really large
 trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about
 7 feet would be idea, planted a foot apart - wild thoughts...



 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com
 wrote:

 Hugh,



 What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a
 ultimately similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high
 density plantings, with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support
 needed and fewer trees per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree
 life than with straight dwarf rootstocks.



 I have a few sloped and curving fields that don’t lend themselves to
 post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.



 Steven Bibula



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM


 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Steven,

 Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?



 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com
 wrote:

 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
 is, does anyone have experience with this.



 Steven Bibula



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Rich,

 I'm curious about your location and elevation.



 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases
 from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh,
 we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the
 toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck



 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:



 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
 sometime.



 Art Kelly

 Kelly Orchards

 Acton, Maine

 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:



 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I
 also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.



 Steven Bibula

 Plowshares Community Farm

 236 Sebago Lake Road

 Gorham ME 04038

 207.239.0442

 www.plowsharesmaine.com



 ___
 apple

Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Steven Bibula
I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
is, does anyone have experience with this.

 

Steven Bibula

 

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

 

Rich,

I'm curious about your location and elevation.

 

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest
apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

 

On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:





I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
sometime.

 

Art Kelly

Kelly Orchards

Acton, Maine

On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:





I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also
plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.

 

Steven Bibula

Plowshares Community Farm

236 Sebago Lake Road

Gorham ME 04038

207.239.0442

www.plowsharesmaine.com http://www.plowsharesmaine.com/ 

 

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Rich Everett

 

Everett Family Farm

Fine Organics From Seed to Core

reofar...@gmail.com

 

 

 


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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Hugh Thomas
Steven,
Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?


On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:

 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
 is, does anyone have experience with this.



 Steven Bibula



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Rich,

 I'm curious about your location and elevation.



 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases
 from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh,
 we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the
 toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck



 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:



 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
 sometime.



 Art Kelly

 Kelly Orchards

 Acton, Maine

 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:



 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I
 also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.



 Steven Bibula

 Plowshares Community Farm

 236 Sebago Lake Road

 Gorham ME 04038

 207.239.0442

 www.plowsharesmaine.com



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 Rich Everett



 Everett Family Farm

 Fine Organics From Seed to Core

 reofar...@gmail.com








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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Jill Kelly
Interstems do make for a more expensive tree.  Wasn't the thinking always to 
use interstems for a free standing, supported early years, well anchored but 
smaller tree?
On Nov 22, 2013, at 1:23 PM, Hugh Thomas wrote:

 Steven,
 Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems? 
 
 
 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is 
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That 
 is, does anyone have experience with this.
 
  
 
 Steven Bibula
 
  
 
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 To: Apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
 
  
 
 Rich,
 
 I'm curious about your location and elevation.
 
  
 
 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
 powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
 juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest 
 apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
 
  
 
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look 
 sometime.
 
  
 
 Art Kelly
 
 Kelly Orchards
 
 Acton, Maine
 
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
 plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick 
 friendly fruiting wall.
 
  
 
 Steven Bibula
 
 Plowshares Community Farm
 
 236 Sebago Lake Road
 
 Gorham ME 04038
 
 207.239.0442
 
 www.plowsharesmaine.com
 
  
 
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 apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
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 Rich Everett
 
  
 
 Everett Family Farm
 
 Fine Organics From Seed to Core
 
 reofar...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Larry Lutz
Up here in the Northland (Nova Scotia)
most of the interstem plantings fell into the Gee that sounded like a good 
idea, now how long can I bear to look at this mess before I pull it out?
The root suckers were phenomenal on the M9/MM111's to the point where they grew 
faster than you could cut them. And next year a fresh batch arose from the 
stubs. Free standing trees are way overrated anyway. The labour to cut suckers 
and deal with trees with weak tops is soon equal to the cost of a trellis 
anyway! But to each his own.
As far a relying on renewal pruning with no permanent branches in Honeycrisp - 
you better have a very strong under stock. We can't do it with m26 here because 
Honeycrisp just will not throw a lot of new branches once it begins to fruit. 
We do a lot more spur pruning than renewal pruning on bearing Honeycrisp. Big 
cuts seldom produce the desired results for us, but we are a low vigour area.
Regards,
Larry Lutz

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-11-22, at 5:06 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

 Interstems do make for a more expensive tree.  Wasn't the thinking always to 
 use interstems for a free standing, supported early years, well anchored but 
 smaller tree?
 On Nov 22, 2013, at 1:23 PM, Hugh Thomas wrote:
 
 Steven,
 Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems? 
 
 
 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is 
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That 
 is, does anyone have experience with this.
 
  
 
 Steven Bibula
 
  
 
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 To: Apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
 
  
 
 Rich,
 
 I'm curious about your location and elevation.
 
  
 
 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases 
 from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, 
 we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the 
 toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
 
  
 
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 
 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look 
 sometime.
 
  
 
 Art Kelly
 
 Kelly Orchards
 
 Acton, Maine
 
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I 
 also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, 
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.
 
  
 
 Steven Bibula
 
 Plowshares Community Farm
 
 236 Sebago Lake Road
 
 Gorham ME 04038
 
 207.239.0442
 
 www.plowsharesmaine.com
 
  
 
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 Everett Family Farm
 
 Fine Organics From Seed to Core
 
 reofar...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Steven Bibula
Hugh,

 

What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately
similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings,
with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees
per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight
dwarf rootstocks.

 

I have a few sloped and curving fields that don't lend themselves to
post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.

 

Steven Bibula

 

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

 

Steven,

Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems? 

 

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:

I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
is, does anyone have experience with this.

 

Steven Bibula

 

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

 

Rich,

I'm curious about your location and elevation.

 

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest
apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

 

On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

 

I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
sometime.

 

Art Kelly

Kelly Orchards

Acton, Maine

On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

 

I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also
plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.

 

Steven Bibula

Plowshares Community Farm

236 Sebago Lake Road

Gorham ME 04038

207.239.0442

www.plowsharesmaine.com http://www.plowsharesmaine.com/ 

 

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Rich Everett

 

Everett Family Farm

Fine Organics From Seed to Core

reofar...@gmail.com

 

 

 


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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-22 Thread Hugh Thomas
Makes sense to me now.

I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had
is, Why is it important to not cut the leader?  Seems like an idea
situation to me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are
self supporting and cut the top out every year to two to control the height
of the trees.  Another thought is that the dwarf trees are really large
trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about
7 feet would be idea, planted a foot apart - wild thoughts...


On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:

 Hugh,



 What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a
 ultimately similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high
 density plantings, with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support
 needed and fewer trees per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree
 life than with straight dwarf rootstocks.



 I have a few sloped and curving fields that don’t lend themselves to
 post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.



 Steven Bibula



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM

 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Steven,

 Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?



 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com
 wrote:

 I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
 about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
 is, does anyone have experience with this.



 Steven Bibula



 *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
 apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
 *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
 *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
 *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management



 Rich,

 I'm curious about your location and elevation.



 On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases
 from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh,
 we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the
 toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck



 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:



 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
 sometime.



 Art Kelly

 Kelly Orchards

 Acton, Maine

 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:



 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I
 also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.



 Steven Bibula

 Plowshares Community Farm

 236 Sebago Lake Road

 Gorham ME 04038

 207.239.0442

 www.plowsharesmaine.com



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 apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop



 Rich Everett



 Everett Family Farm

 Fine Organics From Seed to Core

 reofar...@gmail.com








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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-21 Thread Jill Kelly
I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look sometime.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
 plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick 
 friendly fruiting wall.
  
 Steven Bibula
 Plowshares Community Farm
 236 Sebago Lake Road
 Gorham ME 04038
 207.239.0442
 www.plowsharesmaine.com
  
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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-21 Thread Rich Everett
I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest apple 
tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look 
 sometime.
 
 Art Kelly
 Kelly Orchards
 Acton, Maine
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
 
 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
 plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, 
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.
  
 Steven Bibula
 Plowshares Community Farm
 236 Sebago Lake Road
 Gorham ME 04038
 207.239.0442
 www.plowsharesmaine.com
  
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Everett Family Farm
Fine Organics From Seed to Core
reofar...@gmail.com



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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-21 Thread Hugh Thomas
Rich,
I'm curious about your location and elevation.


On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett reofar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
 anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases
 from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh,
 we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the
 toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

 On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

 I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
 sometime.

 Art Kelly
 Kelly Orchards
 Acton, Maine
 On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

 I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I
 also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
 Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
 any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
 thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
 maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
 with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
 longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
 U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.

 Steven Bibula
 Plowshares Community Farm
 236 Sebago Lake Road
 Gorham ME 04038
 207.239.0442
 www.plowsharesmaine.com

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 Everett Family Farm
 Fine Organics From Seed to Core
 reofar...@gmail.com




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