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Re:questionnaire
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Re: Parvo in pup from petstore help
In a message dated 6/1/2003 2:47:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Anything she can do, so the Petstore has to disclose about the Parvo? > The vet thinks she got it from the Petstore, because incubationtime is 7 > days. > Can she require her money back for the pup? Check the laws in your state...many have "Puppy Lemon Laws". some are under the agriculture dept, some under the auspices of consumer protection. -Sherri V.
Re: could you post for me?
In a message dated 5/30/2003 6:26:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Does anyone have any suggestions for a > type of barrier that I can put in the lake to act as a fence? I need to > remove it when we leave, so it cannot be permanent. I have thought > about pool lane dividers, but at the shallow shore I assume Oscar will > just hop over it. I need a floating fence. I would think you could anchor bouys and have PVC posts coming up out of them, to which you could attach pet screen. Pet screen is a black, fine mesh, about the same as regular window screens, but it's made out of a fibre reinforced plastic that's incredibly tough but light weight. -Sherri V.
Re: ideas about WHY some grow older, and realities of puppies
In a message dated 5/31/2003 12:37:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Am I being totally unrealistic and I should expect to be up all > night every night? I had the impression from what I read, that if you > choose to crate train, the pup can make it through the night, or at least > only have one potty break, if you take them directly outside before and > after, and immediately reward the sniff..piddle...poop sequence outdoors. I've never found it quite that simple. When I've brought puppies home at 8 weeks or so, they could not physically make it through the night without having to pee. Also, the first couple of days are VERY stressful for most puppies...their entire world has been turned upside down, everything they've ever known is suddenly gone. Looking at it that way, I consider the first week to be a time of adjustment and bonding. It's when I want the puppy to learn to trust me, as his new leader, to fulfill his needs and keep him safe. To build that trust, I make a point of being very responsive to the pup's needs... When he gets restless in the middle of the night, I hear it and take him out to pee. If he crys or yelps during the night (usually only the first few nights, if at all) I'll lay down on the floor right next to the crate, talk to him in a calm voice (not "oh...poor baby", just a reassuring "I know this is scarey, I'm here..you don't have to be afraid" kind of thing. I've settled on this 'middle road' to avoid being trained by the pup to humor him at his whim, while at the same time meeting his very real need for security and timely elimination. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: Do Berners ever die of old age?
In a message dated 5/29/2003 2:35:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > We would really like to hear some of > the stats on the lucky Berners who live a long, full, happy, and healthy > life. My first berner turned 11 last February. If there was such a thing as knee replacement for dogs, she'd be a prime candidate but she's still perfectly capable of going up and down a full flight of stairs and wags her tail merrily as she trots through the woods. I believe at least one of her siblings is still living and a full brother passed last month after turning 10 a few months earlier. >From a totally different pedigree, I have a 5.5 y.o. dog who's sire will turn 10 next week...his dam turned 8 in January. To the best of my knowledge, both are doing fine. On his paternal side (aka: the top line or side)...both grandparents died after their 9th birthday. I don't have info beyond that generation as those dogs were all in Europe. On his dam's side (aka: bottom line or side) his maternal grandmother died after 11 yrs of age and his maternal grandfather died at appx 9 yrs. So in the 2 generations immediately behind him, all of the dogs lived well past the average age of 7 yrs. Going back further on his dam's side, by each generation...dogs died at: 10, 10, 7, 11 11, 9, 5, 11, 11, 10, 10, 10 8, 11, 11, 10, 9, 10, 11, 10, 10, (7 unknown) You can see that on this side of the direct line pedigree, double digits are not at all uncommon...they're actually the norm. I wish I had similar information on the extended pedigree to see how the family as a whole faired, but I'm afraid I don't. So enjoy every day with your Berner and let fate (and genetics) fall as it will... ~ Sherri Venditti
Puppy Books
Thanks to all the breeders and ob instructors who've ordered "puppy books" to provide as part of their package, I just mailed a check for $1116.00 to the BMD Fund of the AKC-Canine Health Foundation. I continue to get "thumbs up" feedback from new puppy owners, "thanks" from breeders (less phone calls ), and "just right" from Basic Ob & Puppy-K teachers. THANKS to all who've participated in this Win-Win-Win program... ~ Sherri Venditti PS- Could someone post this info to the BMDbreeder-L?
Re: Roached Back
In a message dated 4/6/2003 4:12:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > A couple of days ago, one of my friend's Berners woke up like that; the > night before he had been totally fine. Roached back, didn't want to eat, > couldn't get in the car unaided. The vet gave him a steroid injection, some > antibiotics - and the next day he ( in fact 8 hours later ) he was fine and > dandy again. > Similarly, Harvey had a "roached back & tip toeing" episode a few month ago. > He screamed in agony when he jumped in the car. This is very much what I experienced with my bitch who was Dx with IMPA a couple of years later. When she was 2 yrs old, she was racing around the woods one day and fine when we wnet to bed at night. When we woke up the next morning, she was just laying on the floor...wagging her tail. I got her up on her feet but she just stood there, stiff and roached, and wouldn't take a step. Brought her to the emergency vet who thought it was pano (even when I questioned her about the age) and sent us home with her on aspirin. After the first dose of aspirin, she was clearly better. By the 3rd aspirin a day later, she showed virtually no sign of pain. The exact same thing happened again a few months later. That was it until 3+ years later when we noticed a very slight, shifting leg lameness. This was so subtle that I don't think anyone but a 'dog person' (ie:someone used to evaluating gait) would have even seen it. We also noticed that she sometimes held one paw slightly off the floor while she ate. Bloodwork showed low positive for Lyme and nothing else so we put her on doxy. She was immediately better...until the antibiotic finished. Then she showed the same signs again. Put her on a longer course of doxy and again, she looked 100% as soon as we started the antibiotic. This time when the doxy ran out she looked clearly lame in 24 hrs. By 48 hours she was immobilized by pain and on her way to Tufts U. where she was Dx with IMPA a few days later. The doctors at Tufts are pretty certain that those two earlier events of sudden, acute, pain were flareups of the IMPA. In its early stages, the inflammation can be defused with minimal antiflammatory action such as by aspirin or doxycycline. They don't, however, stop the disease which is chronic. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Joint pain meds
In a message dated 4/1/2003 11:27:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Would you kindly lend me the benefit of you experience and tell me what > supplements and/or treatments have worked best for sore berner joints? I start with a high quality glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate such as Cosequin DS or GlycoFlex II or III. Do a websearch for best pricing or buy the human version...Cosamin DS... at Costco. I also supplement with 2000mg MSM AM & PM if it's not in the g/cs supplement you use AND your dog doesn't have a history of adverse reaction to sulfa drugs. A good acupuncture practitioner can work wonders in pain relief. It's not cheap, especially during the initial period of intensive treatment, but it can restore the joie de vivre to your dog. If you're not already, consider adding EFAs such as flax seed oil, fish body oil, or a blend like Udo's to your dog's diet. You can also try one of the ayurvedic (Indian herbal) blends for arthritis. They include a variety of herbs with anti-inflammatory properties. I haven't heard much about it lately, but some dogs have good relief with monthly adequan injections. Then there are the NSAIDs: aspirin, rimadyl, and etogesic. Some dogs do better on one than another. All have the potential to cause stomach trouble so be on the lookout for any signs of that. Before starting a course of Rimadyl or Etogesic, I'd always do bloodwork and then repeat at 2 weeks into treatment and again a couple of months later...then every 6 months. Start at recommended dosage and frequency, then try to work down to the level at which your dog has good pain remediation with the minimum dose. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: adding puppy
In a message dated 4/2/2003 5:46:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I don't anticipate any problems, but I would be interested in hearing from > people who have been through this. Some Bernese that are used to being an 'only dog' go into a funk when a new dog joins the family. Keep an eye out for signs of withdrawal from Ollie and address them if they show up. Don't allow him to indulge in a funk, don't allow him to remove himself from the family because the puppy comes into the room. DO be sure to give him lots of special time with you...start a new class, take walks and rides without the puppy...that kind of thing. Enjoy your new puppy! ~ Sherri
Arts & Crafts
Thanks to the generousity of several artists and production people, we have the opportunity to do some unique, fine art and craft items to help fund BMDCA public outreach efforts. But I'm missing a couple of pieces...I'd like to find: 1) People who make *handmade paper* or can provide some other type of high quality, 'artsy' paper and would be willing to donate their work. 2) The donation of a bold and graphic piece of artwork well suited for solid block silkscreen printing. This can be an opportunity to do a Berner piece that's a bit more 'artsy' and off the beaten track than what's widely available so if you're artistically inclined, go for it. If either of these click for you, or you know someone I should contact, please drop me a note. TIA, Sherri Venditti
Re: training
In a message dated 3/31/2003 1:50:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > It also means that I understand that most of > annoying puppy behavior is developmental and therefore temporary. My > experience suggest to me that anxious owners who expect a perfect puppy make > themselves and their puppy crazy! Better to just relax, take lots of > pictures, and be kind to that sweet puppy :) MaryAnn is a far more experienced and successful trainer than I...but I want to add a bit of my perspective here. It's indeed easy to get ones self tied up in knots trying to have a perfectly behaved puppy. Ain't going to happen and you'll make yourself (and your puppy) crazy by trying. But it's also easy to find yourself with an out of control, obnoxious, monster 6 months down the road if you accept, or fall into the trap of unconsciously reinforcing undesireable behavior. In my experience, Bernese are GREAT people trainers! They have an uncanny ability to get what they want, even if it means using bad behavior to get it. Also from my experience, what they value most is your attention...and THAT'S just what they usually get when they misbehave (by our human definition). Viola! The 10 week old puppy has figured out how to push your buttons so she gets the attention she wants before you have any idea what's happening. So when a puppy is jumping my face, the most effective response I've found is to totally withdraw my attentionand then give it when the pup is sitting quietly. I don't care if I have to stare at the ceiling...that jumping bean is getting NO eye contact and NO verbal input from me, I'm a tree or I'm outta there depending on the circumstanceuntil the pup behves the way I want her to behave. Think of it this way...baby puppies instinctively use on us the communication tools they come pre-programmed with to communicate with other dogs. Unfortunately, those same behaviors are inappropriate and potentially harmful to humans. So, it's our job to help them understand what behaviors of theirs will get them what that they seek from us. Very often, what they really want is nothing more than our attention. Giving it and taking it away, minute by minute, is one of the most powerful tools I've found in working with Berners from 8 weeks through adolescence. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: To make your house BMD tail-safe!
In a message dated 3/31/2003 1:07:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > What did you guys have to do to protect your belongings against your dogs > tail? ...pack them away in the basement. -Sherri V.
Re: Housebreaking Help
In a message dated 3/30/2003 8:51:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > We've had Eli for nearly 2 weeks and are still having trouble with > housebreaking. He has good days and bad days. On a bad day (like today), he' > ll go outside, doo his business, come in (on his own) and go to the bathroom > in the house only minutes later... help! This is pretty much what I'd expect after 2 weeks...especially if your puppy has had the opportunity to relieve himself in the house at all. Housetraining is really a pretty complicated process for puppies. It takes time, repitition, and consistency for them to learn the various parts of the lesson. The following is part of a post I sent to the list previously so I apologize for the incorrect gender. Housetraining is a matter of helping your puppy to understand: 1) That outside is the place to relieve herself. 2) How to use her muscles to "hold it" until she gets outside. 3) How to let you know that she has to go outside. No simple matter for a 3 month old brain and body...so patience is an important part of the process. The other important part of the process is repetition. Every time a puppy relieves themself in the house, they're not learning to go outside. Regardless of your reaction, they pretty much learn that it's OK to go when ever and where ever the need arises. So, a core element of housetraining is to do everything you can to prevent 'accidents' from happening. Anticipate when your puppy will have to relieve herself and take her outside BEFORE she does it. When she does go outside, praise and perhaps give her a tidbit as a reward...both will help her to undersstand that going outside is a 'good thing'. Another part of the whole is watching her very closely for the subtle signals she sends to let you know she has to go outsiderespond to them immediately and when she relieves herself outside, reward the good behavior. I use a crate as a tool for helping the puppy and I communicate with each other about how the process goes. Most pups will instinctively not relieve themselves in the small area they sleep in. Consequently, when a pup wakes up in a crate and has to urinate, they'll typically get restless, bark, or yelp to let you know they want *out*. I immediately let the pup out, scooping her into my arms, and carry her outside to the potty area. When I put her down, she pees, I praise and reward...give her a minute or two, and then put her back into the crate. You can see that this is teaching all the key elements of housetraining by using the dog's own instincts to keep her area clean. She learns that if she barks, I'll respond and let her out. She learns to hold herself...even if only in my arms at first...until she gets outside. And, she learns that outside is THE place to relieve herself as she hasn't had the opportunity to do otherwise. The caveat to crate training is that you MUST be there (within earshot) to let her out when she has to go. You can't tell her to wait a few minutes because you're not ready to get up yet, you can't leave her home alone in a crate for long periods of time and expect her to keep her legs crossed. Putting a puppy in that position turns the crate into an instrument of cruelty rather than of learning. > -- he seems to think that the door molding > on our bathroom is one giant chew toy - a large chunk has been chomped off! There are two facets to this... The first is that puppies need to chew and must be provided with safe items to chew on. For babies that still have their their puppy teeth, I use Gumabones (the softer version of the Nylabone), the Booda Bone knotted rope, natural rubber toys, a Chewman fleece, and raw beef knuckle bones with the fat removed. NOTE: the Gumabones, rope toys, and for some dogs...the fleece toys, can ALL be hazardous once your Berner started to get his adult teeth in. Watch closely how these items are being impacted by the chewing and discard as soon as chuncks are being knawed off the Gumabone or the rope toy is looking a bit tattered or loose threads are starting to appear or the fleece toy is being gutted. This can happen in a few minutes so as your puppy gets a bit older I wouldn't leave him alone with them. Also remember to 'upsize' toys to prevent swallowing/choking as puppy gets bigger. The second component environmental. Destructive chewing can result from either stress or boredom. Keep in mind that dogs are inherently social animals and a young puppy would never be totally alone in the normal structure of a canine pack. When you leave a puppy alone (no people, no other dogs about) you can expect the pup to stress (unless he's tired and just wants to sleep). I handle this by slowly building their ability to be alone by starting small and working up. Small applies to both time and space. A dog will instinctively feel 'responsible' for a territory. If a dog ha
Re: Puppy Issues
In a message dated 3/29/2003 8:31:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > At some point during the day if she decides to go out perhaps early morning what > is the maximum allowable time to keep puppy in cage or pen? With a puppy I bring home at 8 weeks, I generally don't leave the house for more than about 15-30 minutes at a time...maybe up to an hour if the pup's had a meal and a good period of play and exercise and is really ready for a nap. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: At what age?
In a message dated 3/29/2003 9:51:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > First, it is not healthy for > the animal to go that long before being let out. Can you go 9 hours at work > without a bathroom break? > Nine hours is just too long for any dog to be left and confined and > expected to "hold it". It is just not a question of bladder size. While agree wholeheartedly about puppies not having to 'hold it' for long periods of time, I have to disagree with Kay when it comes to adults. While they don't routinely have to, my adults can easily go 9 hours without distress. Matter of fact, my 11 year old girl routinely goes longer than that during the summer when she doesn't want to leave the A.Cregardless of the fact that I'm here to let her out any time she wants. Even in good weather, the only time she'll relieve herself in between her AM and PM 'constitutional' (12 hours apart) is during active exercise. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: momentary 'lameness'
In a message dated 3/28/2003 4:31:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > about twice or three times a week, my pup > suddenly starts hobbling around with his right hind > leg off the ground ... as if it were injured. But > this only lasts a couple of minutes, sometimes even > less than a minute. Then all of a sudden, he's > playing and running around as usual. This sounds very typical of a luxating patella (ie: slipping kneecap). LP is very common is many toy breeds but not unheard of in Bernese and other breeds as well. It can be caused by trauma or it can be hereditary. Here's an informative website: http://www.cpvh.com/Articles/78.html ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: BNN at the National?
Hi Mike, This subscription service sounds terrific, what a great addition to the specialty! Just to clarify...Berner Bay Watch IS an offering of the specialty committee, not a 'for profit' company, right? ~ Sherri Venditti In a message dated 3/25/2003 10:49:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > You can subscribe to all issues and bonus pages for $15. > To subscribe go to www.PayPal.com and send $15 to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > You > will receive a confirmation response and a sample page. If you have any > questions send me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Breeding
Sorry, this last paragragh was cut-off: re: In breeding, line breeding, and out crossing... All in all, each has their place and the breed probably benefits most from having the use of all three...in appropriate measure. I wouldn't want to see all litters in-bred or tightly line-bred...but I'm not sure I'd like to see all Bernese litters out-crosses either, especially when working with the very limited information we have available today. Clear as mud? ~Sherri Venditti
Re: Breeding
In a message dated 3/25/2003 11:14:52 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I understand the definitions of in-breeding, line-breeding and out-crossing, > what I don't know are the pros and cons of each. Any information you can > provide would be helpful. Hi Susan, A while back someone else asked similar questions. I received very positive feedback to the post I did in response to that query so am reposting it below: Query: "Please could someone explain why in-breeding, line breeding and outcrossing breeding is/are used.What benefits known or supposed are for each one. Would a close in breed of EG: half brother/sister, brother/sister or father/ daughter etc be frowned upon unless there was a shortage of quality animals. What would be the reasoning for such a close breeding? " My response: Each person has their own specifics when defining inbreeding, line breeding, and out-crossing. They also have their own reasons for the choices they make in their breeding program...I can give you my perspective and definitions but they're not terribly scientific and I'm sure others will differ. In-breeding: I consider in-breeding to be mating first degree relatives, ie: father x daugher, brother x sister. There are two primary reasons for in-breeding, one is to "set" desireable traits. In this case, you are trying to 'concentrate' or 'homogenize' the genes for those traits by producing offspring from parents who already carry similar genetic packages. The hope here is not only that the offspring produced will be wonderful examples of the breed, but also that they will be prepotent for these desireable traits and have a strong tendancy to pass them on to the next generation. The second reason for in-breeding a litter is for a breeder to 'flush out' undesireable genetic traits. By working with the limited genetic input of 1st degree relatives, you are more likely to double up on any lurking hereditary health problems, thereby producing an affected puppy. Should this occur, it provides the breeder (and hopefully the BMD community) with very valuable information on what undesireable genetic baggage the dogs carry. The value of information...when shared...can't be overstated. It is the only tool that enables breeders to effectively work towards sounder, healthier, longer lived, Bernese. Is in-breeding right or wrong? In my opinion, it has the potential to be both. It can be a valuable tool when used on a VERY, VERY, limited basisby a breeder with VERY, VERY extensive knowledge of the family of dogs they're working with. It's not something to be done routinely nor in a vacuum. Here's a hypothetical scenario: Mr. Studly is owned by his breeder who's been developing her line over the course of 20 years. She's been an active breeder with several brood bitches and stud dogs producing at any given time. Mr Studly has been a big winning dog since he was a youngster, temperament and soundness are good, he's a wonderful example of the breed. He's now 4 years old and has been on lots of girl's dance cards, you might even consider him a matador. Many of his get are now matured to the point where they've been evaluated for hips, elbows, conformation, etc. He's produced well in all outward respects (conformation, soundness, and temperament) so many of his offspring are now in other breeding programs. By now, the breeder has some idea of the genetic make-up of Mr.Studly and his dam...they appear to be unusually good examples of the breed in many ways. But some things require just the right mix of genes or are rare enough in the poulation that they aren't necessarily going to show up in routine breeding. There are many, many dogs entering the breeding population who were sired by this dog...is there a timebomb lurking in the genetic package he's passed on along with his good qualities? One way to find out what lurks below the surface is to produce an in-bred litter or two and follow them closely. Say Mr. Studly is bred to his dam (who has a strong track record of free-whelping litters that grow up to be nice, sound, Bernese). One of the pups from the mother x son breeding develops PRA at 1 year. You would now know that Mr Studly is a carrier for PRA AND that ALL of his offspring have at least a 50% probability of being carriers themselves. For some breeders, this would be sufficient reason to not breed those dogs. For others, it means that they would seek out mates with an exceptionally low probability of carrying the gene for PRA. Either way, the *information* gained AND *shared* from that in-breeding provides breeders with the means to reduce the likelihood of producing PRA affected Bernese. So what's "wrong" with in-breeding? There's a large body of research to support the premise that over time, in-breeding drastically reduces fertility and vigor in a population. Remember, along with concentrating those 'go
Re: Worming-Sherri's comments
In a message dated 3/21/2003 8:52:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I > would like to see people educate themselves more about the very real risks > of roundworms and hook and whip and tape worms, albeit the latter has to > pass through a flea host. Actually Rose, I know very little about those...and you're right, all owners should be familiar with the signs (if there are any) of common worms. Can you give us more info? -Sherri
Re: Worming-Sherri's comments
In a message dated 3/21/2003 9:27:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I'm going to jump in here and comment on your worming protocol. I love it when you jump in Rose! Your experience is much broader than mine so I always learn something from it. > You say you > have never had a problem with ascarids and hookworms so why give a toxin in > addition to your medication for heartworm. With that thought process why > are you giving heartworm medication when you could do bi-annual bloodwork > and treat if and when you see evidence of microfilaria. I've actually considered going that route for heartworm, but I'm not yet comfortable enough to deviate so far from the conventional veterinary regimen. The reason is twofold. I believe heartworm poses a more serious threat to my dog's health than the other worms. And, as far as I know...unless it's caught early heartworm treatment still involves repeated dosage over the course of 1-2 months with a potent arsenic based medicine that's very tough on the dog and usually requires hospitalization. Furthermore, if the worms have had enough time to mature they can cause major problems in the blood stream when they're killed by the treatment. "The time elapsed from when the larvae enter the dog until the minute offspring can be detected in the blood (pre-patent period) is about six to seven months. The male heartworms (four to six inches in length) and the females (10-12 inches) become fully grown about one year after infection" (from AHS website) Given this develop pattern, it would be easy for a bi-annual test to miss the early larval stage and not pick up the infection untiI the worms are mature. One would have to test quarterly and even then, it's iffy whether an infection could be treated with a microfilaricide or would necessitate the more toxic adulticide. I also agree with you that various worms can escape detection so I'm not at all confident that a heartworm test at the larval stage is any more foolproof than the tests for the other worms. The difference, imo, is that the potential consequences of a false negative heartworm test are far more serious. > Now before the > layperson gets to thinking that worming medication is toxic lets address > the fact that the toxicity is to the parasite and not the dog. I don't panic about giving worming meds and do favor the routine worming of young puppies as many of these parasites can be dormant in the dam and passed on to the pups despite her having been wormed and clear on fecal exam. But that said, I do try to minimize my use of medications, wormicides, insecticides, etc. throughout the dog's life... to the extent I feel it doesn't present a greater risk to my dogs. Going back to the heartworm example. I'm very comfortable with the general safety of Heartgard (ivermectin) and have not experienced any problem in connection with it. My vet routinely recommends Heartgard 12 months a year plus an annual heartworm test. This makes no sense to me as I'm in CT and the infectious stage in the lifecycle of heartworm requires: mosquitos for transmition AND average daily and minimum temperatures that we only have for appx half the year. I choose not to treat my dogs with heartworm preventative for the half of the year when there is no risk of infectionI just don't think it makes sense to put any unnecessary medications into my dog. Likewise, if a dog comes down with kennel cough I'll see the vet for a listen to the lungs and temperature check but if those are fine, I'll hold off administering antibiotics to see if the infection will clear up on its own in a few days. Again, it's not that I think antibiotics are 'bad'...I actualy think they're invaluable...but I do respect them and consider the fact that they have the potential for undesireable consequences. > Many breeders routinely worm > their puppies and some don't but IMO all puppies should be followed up with > a routine worming or at the least checked regularly after leaving the > breeder's. My puppies have always been wormed prior to coming home. At their first vet visit, my vet sends home a dose of strongid (if I remember correctly) to be administered a few weeks later. I do it, but that's the last time I worm profylactically. Maybe my dogs do have worms and I don't know it, I don't check them for it routinely...but they're certainly outwardly healthy, very thrifty, and have consistently 'just right' stools. > While some people may be very vigilant about their dogs general health the > subject of worms is sometimes forgotton and troublesome bowels and > unthriftiness is often a sign of parasitic burden. You're quite right. I do think that protocols should be tailored to the individual dog and the owner. I'm very attuned to any changes in my dogs, diligent with medications, and call or see my vet at the drop of a hat. Some people aren't aware of ch
Re: revolution
In a message dated 3/20/2003 3:35:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > The booklet say that for dogs, it will control > infestations of american dog ticks as well as prevent/control/treat fleas, > ear mites, sarcoptic mange, heartworm. That wording of their material is important...the Pfizer website states: "With monthly dosing, Revolution (selamectin) controls American dog tick (D.variabilis) infestations in dogs and puppies as young as six weeks." There are two problems with this statement... First, what does "control...infestations" mean? When I looked at the flea section, it said the Revolution kills them. That's not indicated with regard to ticks. Second, they specifically state that it controls infestations of only one tick specie, the American Dog Tick. The problem here is that almost all Lyme disease (a much larger problem in the east) is transmitted by a different specie, the deer tick. Pretty sad, but I guess things like this are now consumer products more than meds so we have to look closely at exactly what's stated...and what's not. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Revolution
In a message dated 3/19/2003 10:27:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > what are people's opinions on Revolution? I don't have one...yet . I like to see new products in wide usage before I try them as the testing prior to market release is on a very small scale. It's really after there's significant market penetration that you can start to get a good idea of possible side affects and the rate of negative reactions. I also shy away from products that include add'l active ingredients for parasites I don't have to address. For example, I prefer Heartgard (ivermectin) over Heartgard Plus (ivermectin + pyrantel) because all I need is heartworm protection. I've never had a problem with ascarids or hookworms so why administer a toxin to treat them? Revolution is effective against a bunch of stuff (but NOT ticks). Read the material carefully to see if it's one chemical that has broad affect or whether it's a combination of things that deal with problems you don't have. The latter can be primarily a marketing creation rather than one based on need. > Suggestions? If fleas are the only critter you want to address, you might want to look at Program. I haven't researched it, but the premise of preventing the formation of chitin (which mammals don't have) is promising to me. You should be able to find adverse reactions for all of the vet prescribed products somewhere on the FDA website. Another option for fleas only is a service like Fleabusters (or do-it-yourself) that dusts your home with finely powdered borax. As far as I know, Borax is not toxic per se, but you do have to be cautious with the dust...it's not something you want to breathe in. If you're dealing with fleas and ticks then you have only a few choices in the current generation of veterinary products (Frontline, Advantage, Revolution, Program, Preventic). Frontline is the only one of these products that's effective against both fleas and ticks. In this case, I would use the Frontline Plus as the plus is an insect growth regulator (ie: very species specific) to short circuit the flea's repro cycle so you don't maintain a flea population in your home. The alternative is to combine a flea product such as Program with the Preventic collar which is effective against ticks IF properly fitted and replaced on schedule. I believe the collar's problematic if your dogs get wet and it can be toxic of chewed. If you choose a combination approach, check to be sure that the components are compatible. Of course, if you have puppies you also have to consider safety for them and a nursing dam. I haven't researched that at all... -Sherri Venditti
Re: Dog treats
In a message dated 3/19/2003 4:59:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My dogs LOVE a dried liver treat that can be purchased called Benny > Bullies Liver Chops. Where do you buy these Angela? Nothing came up on a websearch... -Sherri V.
Re: Unhousebroken Puppy
In a message dated 3/19/2003 7:16:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I have a six month Berner boy who is altered and up until about a week ago > housebroken. Hi Mary, My first stop when I see any sudden change in behavior is the vet's office to rule out a physical cause. It's possible your boy has picked up an infection or even developed a stone that makes it impossible for him to 'hold it' as he normally would. If the vet gives him a clean bill of health, then I'd guess this is a teenage lapse and go back to the basics of housetraining. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: Perfect SUV
In a message dated 3/19/2003 7:18:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > when we travel with all the boys, we have a Chevy Avalanche with a topper on > it. Bruce, Do you find the AC gets all the way to the back? -Sherri V,
Re: Freedom Spot-On (Was Frontline)
In a message dated 3/19/2003 4:19:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Here is the web site for the Freedom Spot-On if you want to check it out. > I'm impressed by the price, and not so impressed by the claims because I've > often found that products that seem too good to be true usually is. > http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?PGGUID=A51D4BD2-E2F6-4194-8D87- > 0EAF4F857EE4&ccd=IDW003 This is similar to the traditional flea & tick products in which the active ingredient is pyrethrin (extracted from chrysanthemums) or permethrin (the synthetic equivalent). These compounds are neurotoxins to one degree or another in most species, birds and fish are especially sensitive to it. These compounds have been used as broad spectrum insecticides for many years. The newer veterinary products are far more species specific in the mechanism they target. For example, Program blocks the development of chitin...critical to the development of fleas, but not a component of mammals makeup. I'm sorry, I don't recall the exact mechanism and species limitation for Frontline but you should be able to find it online. -Sherri Venditti
Re: litter size & line breeding
In a message dated 3/17/2003 9:11:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > But it wasn't a relationship between line-breeding and > litter size, rather that smaller litter size is one of the things associated > with in-breeding depression, along with reduced fertility, shorter life > span, increase in cancers, immune system problems, etc. Speaking of which... Does anyone know the coefficient of inbreeding in BMDs? ...and, if I remember correctly, there are two different mathematical expressions related to this. Can someone clarify that for me? -Sherri Venditti (math whiz NOT!)
Re: Proposed AKC fee increase
In a message dated 3/16/2003 4:39:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Thought this was interesting. This is interesting... It will be especially interesting to see how the fancy responds to this as one of the major reasons the AKC gives for continuing to work with puppy mills is the income they generate and the impact the loss of that income would have on the cost of services such as registration and shows. -Sherri Venditti
New England show weekend
This coming Sat & Sun are the CT River Working Group shows in W. Springfield, MA. (Eastern States Exposition, Mallory Bldg.) The Berner entries are supported both days by regional clubs so you'll find large entries, breed information, hospitality, and lots of Berner lovers. Both days: Puppy & Veteran Sweepstakes at 8AM Regular judging starts at 9:30. See you there, Sherri Venditti
Re: Fetching Berners (aren't they all?)
In a message dated 3/10/2003 6:25:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I've heard that Berners aren't much for fetch, but our boy loves it! I think some are, some aren't. I couldn't believe my eyes watching a 7.5 week old, totally untrained, Berner baby do a complete fetch & retrieve...consistently! One of her littermates did pretty well with it also and the rest of the litter was the more typical interest in chasing an that's about it. -Sherri Venditti
Re: ADMIN: HTML Causing Problems, as always
Has anoyone found a way to make AOL 8 send in plain text other than sending from the AOL website? -Sherri V. (still on 5.0)
Puppy books & getting started
In a message dated 3/9/2003 10:31:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > 1) Your all time favorite puppy and/or training books (and believe me, I've > read many already, but I just want to be sure I'm not missing a really good > one! I'm living vicariously through my books now!) My favorite all around book for new owners is Taking Care of Puppy Business by Gail Pivar & Leslie Nelson. It's a booklet that covers a lot of topics in a sensible and easy to understand way...no jargon, just good information to help you understand your puppy and practical approaches to raising him. First time owners love this book and many breeders provide it to each of their puppy buyers. You can order Puppy Business from the online dog bookstore, www.dogwise.com, $7.95 (+ S&H) or from me. The authors have supported my use of the puppy books as a fund raiser by providing them at a greatly reduced cost. I sell them $6 each, Buy 10~ Get 1 Free (plus shipping). Out of the $6, $3 goes to the authors and $3 to the AKC/CHF BMD Health Fund to fund research into diseases that affect Bernese. > 2) Also, a funny question, out of curiosity, I was wondering how you all > started out with sleeping arrangements. I think a lot depends on the layout of your house and yard. What works for me is to set up a crate in the kitchen and either my husband or I sleep (in sweats this time of year) on the couch in the adjoining family room. That way I'm close enough to hear the puppy stir (indicating it's time for trip outside to potty). When he does, I can sweep him out of the crate and out the sliders in the FR to the yard before it's too late. If he stresses at all the first couple of nights I'll go to him, talk calmly with him, sit next to the crate, put my fingers through to touch him...that kind of thing. I find that what they're looking for at that point is not to get out of the crate, but the reassurance that they're not alone...they just want to know there's a pack leader about to take care of things. I let them know that I'm right there and there's nothing to fear. After the first fews nights away from their litter,most pups settle right in with the new routine, comfortable in the knowledge that you'll be there when they need you. Sometimes during the first week or so they'll wake up with a fright, much like a small child. At that point, my voice from the family room is sufficient to reassure him that I'm here and there's nothing to fear. What works in practice for you may be different...but the elements are the same. Leaving his home, breeder, and litter ...iow, everything he's ever known, is stressful for a puppy. My job is to help him understand that he doesn't have to worry, I have everything under control and he's not in any danger. I do this by being responsive to him with a calm air that *shows* him everything's fine...and by avoiding the temptation to feed into his fears with 'ohhh...poor baby'. -Sherri Venditti
Re: new training trick
In a message dated 3/9/2003 4:49:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > he is the joy of my life but I need new things to do with him. I have read > that they like jobs to do, but what? Jobs can range from bringing in the newspaper to draft work (many Berners *light up* when you put the harness on, especially if they're going to help you haul bags of mulch, etc) to tracking (they LOVE it!) to 'helping' you watch the baby. Think 'partnership' and be creative, you'll think of things that fit your lifestyle. > Also, do Berners do well in agility classes? Many Berners love agility. Look for a class with a skilled teacher who knows the difference between running a Border Collie and a BMD, work for control and precision...not speed at this point, keep jump heights low and minimize work that pounds on the front end like the full height A-frame. IOW, respect those young jointsthe growth plate may not be closed yet and still susceptible to damage. If your dog avoids specific obstacles without showing fear, consider that that particular activity may cause him pain and don't push it. As an example, I was taking agility classes with my mature bitch, she loved it...charged up the A-Frame, galloped the dog walk, etc ...Except for jumping. She would bail on even low jumps all the time. I knew her hips & elbows were good and she'd never limped a day in her life but the teacher kept asking me, "are you sure she's sound, not having a shoulder problem?, etc". I kept saying I know she's sound, she's just being a pill. Well, in retrospect...she probably wasn't just being difficult. A year or two later this bitch crashed with acute IMPA (auto-immune disease, pain in multiple joints). She's been treated for it for almost 2 years and is doing very well, looking at her move you'd never know there's anything amiss. However, she still has somewhat limited range of movement in her back. It's not something you can see, I know it only because I know her habits and the one 'back stretch' that she always did but now stops short of completling. I'd bet money that the reason she ditched on those jumps was that she was experiencing mild IMPA and it was uncomfortable for her. As Ruth R. would say, "Listen to your dog." -Sherri Venditti
Re: puppy feeding
In a message dated 3/9/2003 12:17:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > In reviewing research about large breed formulas I have found that most of > the research was conducted by the manufacturers of dog food and pet food > industry. I'm afraid this is a fact of life in terms of pet food. Even the research carried out by academia is usually funded by the large food companies. When you stop to think about it, there's no public health imperative and no economic benefit to be gained (as in food animals) to provide an impetus for government funding in this area. There's no NIH for dogs... So, I do keep in mind the funding source of research I read and I recognize the fact that what's investigated and how doesn't tell the whole story. Still, I believe it's better than nothing and you can find research conducted within an academic setting and repeated to help establish credibility. My biggest concern isn't the validity of the research, it's the fact that so many people (owners, breeders, vets) grab onto a preliminary finding or even a misinterpretation of findings and never bother to update their 'knowledge' when further study proves initial those initial assumptions to be false. This is very much the case in the common perception that protein = bad for growing large breed puppies. -Sherri Venditti
Re: lawn fertilizer question
In a message dated 3/8/2003 9:03:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > does anyone remember the name of the lawn fertilizer product that is made from, I > think, corn? You can use corn gluten meal (available at feed stores) to keep down crab grass and other annual weeds that come up from seed. As it dissolves, the gluten coats seeds to keep them from sprouting but as far as I know, it doesn't feed the lawn in any way. The corn gluten meal comes as small pellets that you can spread with the same kind of spreader you'd use for lime or fertilizer. If I remember, it has to be reapplied every 30 or 60 days...do a web serach and I'm sure you'll find articles on the specifics of using it. Beware...some dogs love to snuffle it up from the grass, and of course...many dogs are allergic to corn. -Sherri V.
Seminar by Beverly Capstick
Beverly Capstick is giving a Structure and Movement seminar in my area. Has anyone been to one of her presentations? -Sherri Venditti
Re: When to switch to adult food?
In a message dated 3/4/2003 5:01:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My vet recommends to switch to adult food soon. My Berner pup Bijou is now 5 > month old and eats 3 times a day Eukanuba puppy food. Isn't the switch a bit > early, since Bijou is still growing. What you guys think? Also when did you > guys switch to 2 feedings a day? My first resource for feeding instructions is the breeder my pup came from. If you don't have a the breeder as a qualified resource, then I'd probably be inclined to go with the manufacturer's guidelines. I assume you're feeding the Large Breed Puppy formula? I think Eukanuba recommends chaning over at 12 or 18 months, I don't recall which but it definietle isn't at 5 months. If you think about it, changing at 5 months would be quite contrary to the purpose of feeding the L.B. puppy formula to begin with. At that age, Bijou is just hitting a major growth spurt. The premise of the diet is that it's formulated based on Iams research into skeletal development of large breeds. That skeletal development goes at an extraordinary pace during much of the first year of life. During that rapid growth phase, dogs are at serious risk of developing several skeletal diseases that are fueled by improper diet. So, if I were raising a pup on a L.B. formula I had faith in, I'd go to at least 12months...possibly 18. but that's just me, you might want to discuss with your vet the reasons he feels changing at 5 months is the best course. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Lyme disease and vaccine
Barb, I can't give you hard and fast answers, I'm not sure anyone has them at this point...but a couple of things might help you in your decision making process. There are essentially (3) different types of tests for Lyme disease. The in house test is usually called the IDEX test. It checks for the presence of the Lyme causing rickettsia along with heartwork and one other thing that escapes me right now. This is a relatively new test (couple of years on the market), I've heard some vets think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread and others who have no confidence in it. I have no idea if/how the results of this test are impacted by vaccination. The second type of test is the conventional antibody titre that can be run by commercial labs like Antech, et al. This test is not accurate for dog's that have been vaccinated. Titres for vaccinated dogs have to be run using the Western Blot methodology which is usually done at one of the university labs in the upper midwest, ...MSU I think but it could be UM. It does take a bit longer and cost more than the conventional test, but it's the same blood draw in terms of your dog. As for vaccinations, they vary as well. Personally, I would stay clear of the old vaccine which has been around for years...it has a poor track record in safety and efficacy. But there's a newer Lyme vaccine that utilizes recombinant DNA that came on the market a couple of years ago. I have no idea what the track record is for this one but I'd expect you'll find information on the web. Poke around for the brand and then try the FDA website. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Burning Lawn
In a message dated 3/4/2003 8:03:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Is there a pill or solution you can actually add to food/water to dilute the > acidity in the urine? Would you really want to change the chemistry of what is inherently correct for the functioning of your dog's body? :-) I know it's awful to answer a question with a question, but I honestly think it's important to think about it this way... ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: MH Questions
In a message dated 3/2/2003 1:22:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My Maggie had all the > classic signs of MH, and both my vet and I were sure that's what it was. > I had to insist on a necropsy - he thought it was unnecessary - and we > were both shocked to learn that she did have liver cancer, but it was > not MH. It was hepatocellular carcinoma, a type of cancer that is common > in older dogs and cats. Pat, Did you use your vet's standard path lab for the cytology or did you have the tissues sent to UCD or other lab with specialized capability of expertise in MH? -Sherri
Re: Rowyn's hips
In a message dated 3/2/2003 4:31:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Any other suggestions what I can do to help bring him out of his shell??? Definitely agility. I've seen it accomplish an incredible turnaround in a dog's outlook and way of dealing with the world. -Sherri
Help Wanted~ Berner Art
Do you enjoy creating Berner artwork? Do you have high quality (suitable for reproduction) photographs of beautiful berners in beautiful (or 'unique') settings? I'm looking for people who work in any style (from cartoon to fine art and everything in between) and media who would like to provide artwork for BMDCA projects. I'm hoping to build both a library of work and a network of artists to work on projects as they come along. The applications range from coffee mugs to bait bags and who knows what we might *cook up* for fundraisers and educational materials. This is definitely a case of *the more, the merrier*... The more people we have contributing their artwork, the more we can perfect the match between artist and project...and, we'll be able to do it without overburdening anyone! If you have a piece sitting in your file folder that you'd like to see made up... or if you're someone I can contact when a project calls for your type of work, I'd love to hear from you! (If you know someone who's not on the list, please pass this on!) -Sherri Venditti
Re: To Berner or not to Berner??
In a message dated 2/28/2003 10:10:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I guess I'm seeking advice or reassurance that my home and lifestyle will > accomidate a Berner. Hi Kenny, I think Liz answered many of your specific questions very well so I'll just offer a bit of the 'big picture'. Adding a Bernese to your home and family WILL have a big impact on your home and family . A large part of that impact is wonderful and the reason some of us can't imagine life without a Berner on our feet. Over time, a Bernese will connect with you and your family in a way that defies description. It will bring much joy and satisfaction. It will also mean black fur in the butter dish and ice cubes, stains on the carpet where puppy had an accident or the adult dog got sick, a chewed rug-cabinet-prized antique chair leg...it's tough to be house proud when you own a Bernese. It will require a significant committment of your time and energy to train, socialize, and exercise the dog throughout the years...not just the first 6 months. Some dogs will develop chronic and painful diseases requiring ongoing treatment and limiting their ability to participate in activities. And finally, living with and loving a Bernese means suffering the eventual loss of the dog...sometimes sooner, sometimes later. Because the relationship they build with you is so deep... some people never heal from this loss and never get another Berner. So ask as many questions as come to mind and read the excellent information available on line. Websites for the BMDCA, Pat Long, Berner.org, IMBDC-Panda, are all loaded with factual and practical information. Then consider it all within the framework of the larger picture above and you'll be in a good position to make the right decision for you and your family. -Sherri Venditti
Health Clinics
Duncannon, PA Mar 8 Eye FMI 717-834-9889 (6-9PM) Granby, CT Mar 9 Eye & Microchip FMI 860-668-6143 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mt. Airy, MD Mar 14 Eye, Heart, Microchip, Tattoo FMI 301-831-7507 www.belquest.com Manassas, VA Mar 16 Eye, Heart, microchip, blood, Baer FMI 703-680-1905 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Pottstown, PA Mar 23 Eye FMI 610-346-9370 www.mapwde.org Hudson, OH Apr 5 Eye FMI 330-334-1175 Mogadore, OH Apr 6 Eye, microchip, tattoo FMI 330-945-4881
Re: Sterling is 9
In a message dated 2/26/2003 2:30:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Question to all listers: > If a breeder gave you a puppy free of charge, and it came up with health > issues later on, would you feel that the breeder should be responsible to > pay all the health costs? This sounds to me like a question with so many variables that one couldn't possibly explore it thoroughly enough in this venue to comment intelligently. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: Elbows
In a message dated 2/26/2003 8:15:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Please advise the breeders of affected dogs and where possible the stud > owner as well. I'd second that (along with the rest of Rose's excellent post!), but add the request to please enter the data in BernerGarde, and if possible...OFA's Open Registry. Also, for pain mediation...consider acupunture in addition to the supplements and NSAIDs. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Advice needed
In a message dated 2/24/2003 3:52:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > While we were > in Dana Point my Greta started to blow her coat. I > have heard this can be from emotional stress. But in > the middle of a cold winter, yikes. Many dogs will up the shed quotient in response to stress, it seems almost instantaneous and stops just as quickly. But from your other questions, it sounds like Greta is intact? If that's ture, then she'll do a full blown molt a couple of months after each heat. Intact bitches can go so naked there's nothing left but scraggly guard hairs and a rat tail. > Secondly, what are your experienced opinions on > fertilization? Why or why not breed the old fashioned > way vs buying and shipping sperm from champions that > are geographically distant? I think the most important thing in planning a breeding isn't geography...it's identifying the best male for your bitch. This is a multi-faceted task that starts with a thorough and objective evaluation of your bitch's strengths and weaknesses (including potential for carrying hereditary diseases). Then the same analysis is done for her close relatives and the dogs in her pedigree. It takes quite a bit of investigation and networking...discussions with your girl's breeder, discussions with breeder's about studs they've used, and finally...discussions with owners of studs you're considering. As for which type of breeding is most effective...it depends on who you ask . Many breeders feel that there's nothing like a natural breeding. Some breeders find natural breedings somewhat risky and inconvenient so they always AI, even if the dog and bitch are on site. Dr. Robt. Hutchison, a repro specialist of wide repute, claims that his surgical insemination success rate is better than anything else. Apart from varying opinions...you should also be aware that there's a big difference between the viability of fresh chilled semen vs. frozen. There's also a big difference in the various extenders and processes used for each...not all repro vets or services are created equal. Cost is also a major factor in high tech repro services. So, were I planning to breed my bitch, I'd start close to home...building relationships with breeders in my region and taking every opportunity to see as many BMDs as possible (specialty shows are good for this). Then I'd broaden my outlook with a trip to the national specialty in the US and/or Canada. That gives you a chance to see not only potential stud dogs, but some of their get and relatives as well. It also gives you the opportunity to see more high quality dogs than you will at the local shows. Once you decide upon the best stud for your bitch you can address the logistics accordingly. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Airline travel?
In a message dated 2/23/2003 8:47:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I am new to this process and in the midst of finding the appropriate berner > pup for our home. One quick question--how common is it to receive a new pup > from a breeder via airline? Is this standard? What should I be on the > lookout for? Puppies are frequently flown, with caveats for weather, direct flights, etc. But if I were buying my first Bernese, I'd be more concerned with finding the right breeder for me and having them readily available for support as I go along. I can't overstate the value (and pleasure) of that relationship and ongoing support which is awfully tough to maintain via long distance. The other thing that I'd be concerned with is how to establish the credibility of a breeder that I haven't visited. On the internet, it's very easy to make puppy mills sound like palaces and brokers sound like breeders. VERY difficult to sort out who's a *responsible* breeder and who's just looking to sell puppies. Here are some tools to help: If you're looking at a website, does it provide the physical address of the breeder? Does it talk about generations of specific dogs? Does it provide pedigrees and OFA or GDC numbers? IOW~ does it talk in hard facts or does it make sweeping generalizations? Is the breeder ACTIVE in the BMDCA and/or regional clubs? Use the BMDCA info series at www.bmdca.org. Click on Info Series, then Buying a Puppy. Especially go to the second page of the pdf file and read the Red Flags to watch out for. Use the Breeder Checklist on Pat Long's website, to help steer your conversations with breeders. You should get hard answers to these questions...not fuzzy generalities. http://www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/berner1/checklist.htm Before you agree to buy a pup, DEMAND copies clearances for hereditary diseases like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, eyes (CERF) , heart (OFA), and vWD. Before you agree to buy a pup, DEMAND a copy of the sales contract. READ it thoroughly, and be sure you UNDERSTAND the consequences of the terms. Personally, until I've been deeply involved in the BMD community for many years, I much prefer to buy from a breeder I can visit, meet their dogs, see first hand how they're raised and cared for than go with someone I only "know" by phone and website. After all, I'm not only investing a sizable amount of money in this pup...more importantly...I'm adding a living being to my family. I have hopes and dreams about what kind of dog he'll grow up to be ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: Berner vs Golden
In a message dated 2/23/2003 8:37:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > do you have any inputs about the charateristics of the two breeds and > how they compare in regards to family life with young children? Talkin gabout dogs of correct temperament for their breed, someone once said that "Goldens feel they were put on this earth to serve you, whereas Berners believe they are here to work with you." I think this is a fairly good summation if you think about their roots. As a working breed, the Bernese was bred to 'think' things through. The opening line of the first standard for the breed in the US (1937-1980) stated that the BMD is a "combination of sagacity, fidelity, and utility." That sums it up pretty well and gives an idea of the training necessary to channel that "sagacity" in an agreeable way. OTOH, sporting breeds like the Golden were bred for finely honed instincts and the unquestioning commitment to use them in the service of man. I think that Bernese can make extraordinary family dogs and be wonderful with children. I also think that to make that a reality requires concerted effort in selection of breeder and litter AND considerable training. Goldens can also make extraordinary family dogs and be wonderful with kids. They also have suffered the fate of indiscriminate breeding so correct temperament can't be taken for granted. I do think that there may be more wiggle room in the raising of a GR vs a BMD. The BMD may be more inclined to take charge if he perceives a power vacuum. He may be more skilled in his manipulation of people. And the BMD is likely more prone to behaviors designed to 'protect' his family as this was one of the traits most valued (and bred for) in the early days of the breed. Therefore, it's the owner's responsibility to teach his Berner appropriate and inappropriate responses to the things that trigger this behavior. Either way, we're talking in generalities and about dogs iwth *correct* and *stable* temperaments. THAT'S your challenge for either breed...finding the breeders who make temperament a high priority in their breeding program and have a strong track record as a result. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Stud Dog Contracts
SV: > The other honor available for stud dogs is in Stud Dog competition at > specialties. This is a non-regular class where (2) of the dog's get are > shown along with him. The judge evaluates the get looking for both quality > and consistency. The stud dogs are then placed 1st through 4th. The same > class is offered for Brood Bitches. Cindy: > Does the dog gain a title from this type of award? No, Stud Dog and Brood Bitch are "non-regular" classes. These are 'showcase' classes that breeders use to get an idea of how a dog/bitch is producing, to promote their dog and kennel, or just because they're proud of what their dog/bitch produced. There are no points involved and there is no title to attainjust bragging rights . -Sherri V.
Re: Stud Dog Contracts
In a message dated 2/22/2003 9:46:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > what is a stud dog championship? How is it earned? I'm not familiar with a "stud dog championship", but there are a couple of honors a stud dog can be awarded. The BMDCA recognizes member's dogs as "Top Producer of Champions", "Top Producer of Working Title Holders", and "Top Producer of Versatility Berners". To be a "Top Producer" in each of the catagories, a Dog must have sired at least 6 champions, working title holders, or Versatility dogs. A Bitch must have produced at least 4. Personally, I much prefer something along the lines of the BMDCC (Canadian) system where the orthopedics a dog produces are taken into account as well as titles. The BMDCA has a taskforce doing a top to bottom review of the club's awards. If you're a member and have ideas on this subject, do send them on to the taskforce. The other honor available for stud dogs is in Stud Dog competition at specialties. This is a non-regular class where (2) of the dog's get are shown along with him. The judge evaluates the get looking for both quality and consistency. The stud dogs are then placed 1st through 4th. The same class is offered for Brood Bitches. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Intact males to neuter or not to neuter???
In a message dated 2/22/2003 10:08:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > They can be wooden headed > and if they do not live with intact bitches can be a big pain when meeting > other dogs thinking that every female is desiring of his attention. Working > stud dogs learn very quickly from their female kennelmates what is > appropriate behaviour and it is easy to see at the dog shows which males > live in a balanced environment and which ones don't. There are the punks > who look for trouble and have no manners about where their noses are > welcome! Boy, I'll second that Rose!!! That's one aspect of keeping an intact male that took me by surprise. My boy lives with two, very indulgent, spayed bitches...he definitely qualifies as one of those wooden heads you referred to when he's suddenly around intact bitches. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Stud Dog Contracts
In a message dated 2/21/2003 9:36:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I was wondering if some of you would be willing to share a sample > of your stud dog service contracts with me. Specifically a sample > that includes a pick of a puppy in place of an actual stud fee. > > I'm trying to get a feel for what should or shouldn't be included > in contracts. Hi Robin, I think that what should/shouldn't be included in a stud contract is determined by what's important to you. Some are strictly limited to setting out the terms of a business transaction (and those vary from a service fee + amount/puppy to the traditional flat fee or pick puppy). Others cover the transaction details, but also specify parameters for placement of pups and requirements for eventual screening of the puppies. You may also find that you want to have different contracts for different breedings/breeders...depending on their level of experience. Where your stud contract falls within the range depends on your own priorities. I'll pass on one general suggestion made to me which I took to heart and feel is 'a good thing'. My contract generally provides for my choice of a fee or a 1st pick puppy. But, IF the breeder keeps a puppy for herself, she takes 1st pick and I take second. My feeling is that at the bottom line, the breeder risked the life of her bitch to get the litter and therefore *should* have the option of first pick puppy. Of course, there are exceptions to everything. If I was working closely with a breeder and hoped to make a puppy from that particular litter my foundation bitch...I might discuss taking first pick with the breeder with the hope of having her full support in my plans. The other thing I try to do in my contract is to be fair. I ask for a lot in terms of health screening on the bitch, placement, and follow up of the pups... because that's what's most important to me. So in exchange I include things favorable to the breeder on the business side of things to help balance it out. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Funny Snow Games
In a message dated 2/21/2003 9:17:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Do you have any funny Snow Stories? Couldn't imagine why Granger was laying atop a 5 ft high snow mound, then burying his head a foot into it, digging, burying his head, digging...until he came up with his prize! He finally pulled out a bone, set it atop the snow pile, and walked away. -Sherri V.
Re: Female Spayed bitches
In a message dated 2/21/2003 3:01:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > We are contemplating taking on 2 x 2 1/2 yr old bitches that need to be > rehoused. > We currently have an 18 mth old male. > > Does anyone see any problems with this. I have two spayed bitches and an intact male and we all live quite happily. However, there are things to consider... First is the temperament of the dogs...each is an individual. Most will get along nicely, some will not. With (3) dogs you really do have a pack so it's helpful if you're knowledgble about, and comfortable dealing with, pack dynamics. Three dogs is a lot of work...Unless they're impeccably trained, you'll not likely be able to take all three walking at one time. Keeping nails trimmed, dogs bathed, giving them each 'quality' time, etc takes a significant commitment of time. Three BMDs won't fit in all vehicles. Three BMDs is an expensive propositionbe prepared. If I used a boarding kennel to go on vacation, my cost would be $75 per day. If I used a groomer to bathe my dogs, my cost would be $150 every other month. That sort of thing is pretty minimal for 1 dog so we don't think twice about it. But when you multiply it x 3 it's not insignificant anymore. Those are 'optional' expenses, but with three BMDs, you also have 3X the likelihood of dealing with serious illness and may have to deal with several at one time. This sort of thing isn't at the forefront of ones thinking when they're 2 years old...but when they're 5,6,7,8...and the odds are that at least one or two will be dealing with a chronic or acute ailment of some sort, three Bernese can easily cost you $10,000-$20,000 per year to maintain. > Also does a spayed bitch still go on heat? Here in the US, the spay operation removes both the uterus and the ovaries so the bitch does not go into heat once the surgery is done. Someone in Europe recently posted that some vets there are tying the tubes only, leaving the ovaries and uterus intact. That makes no sense to me what-so-ever, but in that case, yes...the bitch would continue to have heat cycles, attract males, get edgey with PMS, be susceptible to pyometritis, and at increased risk for mammary cancer. -Sherri Venditti
Re: She Won't Eat!
I second Eileen. A sudden change in behavior, especially in terms of eating, can be a sign of trouble brewing. When dogs don't feel well, they often don't feel like eating so it's something to be aware of and follow up on with your vet. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Haggis
In a message dated 2/20/2003 8:01:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I'm fascinated to know more about the exploding haggis! Is this an ancient > weapon of mass destruction? :-)) See what you miss by skipping our specialty Rose! We REALLY cover all the bases. But...I'm not sure haggis has to explode to qualify as a WMD. -Sherri V.
Re: Glucosamine
In a message dated 2/10/2003 6:09:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My boy Ozzie is now just over 13 months old, At around 4-1/2 > months I started noticing that he would on occasion have a little difficulty > getting up from a lying down position (hind legs). He still has the same > difficulty but not all the time. After he is out running in the yard and/or > playing with other dogs I find that when he comes in he is very stiff and on > occasion starts to limp. This will last a day or so and then the limp and > stiffness seems to go away. >I am wondering if this is a sign that there > could be a problem with his hips or arthritis? This is late, but as I haven't seen any responses on the list...I'll toss mine out. In a word, yes...what you've described may be symptoms of hip dysplasia and early stage arthritis. But it may also be symptoms of many other things as well...mild panosteitis, Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, et al. So, before I'd start using a supplement...I'd want to do a few diagnostics so I know what it is I'm treating. Personally, I'd probably do hip and elbow xrays AND send them to OFA or OVC for evaluation. Depending on location, I'd also run a tick panel, doing the Lyme by Western Blot if he's been vaccinated for it. Discuss with your vet any other diseases prevalent in your area that it would make sense to screen for. If he's clear of orthopedic issues and infectious diseases, I'd probably run an ANA for possible auto-immune disease but that's more of a 'down the road' thing. DO chat with your breeder. If they're a responsible sort they'll want to know what you're experiencing, support you in resolving it, and utilize the information in their future breeding decisions. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Children's Dog Training Books?
I can't recommend a specifc book, but kids LOVE clicker training! My young nephews picked it up in a flash when they visited and they still run to the drawer and pull out the clicker every time they visit. I think they see it like a super hero tool . -Sherri Venditti
Re: Attracting aggression from other dogs?
In a message dated 2/18/2003 8:25:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > All dog-dog interactions are much less complicated for a neutered dog (and > > less nerve wracking for you as well!) > For the most part this is very true. However, having a neutered male doesn't > always gurarantee you peace from other intact males. Absolutely! The only sure thing in dogs is that there's NO sure thing! Thanks for bringing this up Marjie! -Sherri V.
Re: shots
In a message dated 2/11/2003 3:41:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Sorry I can't remember who it was but a few weeks ago someone posted a > letter from their vet discussing the why's and wherefore's of how and when > we should vaccinate. I think they were going to follow it up with the vet > and let us know more. Anyone remember this? I'm not sure if you might be referring to my favorite article on designing a vaccination protocol. This is on the IVIS website which is non-profit and targeted to vets. Here's the URL but you might have to register with IVIS to gain access. No charge, no spam, no problem . http://www.ivis.org/advances/Infect_Dis_Carmichael/schultz/chapter_frm.asp?LA= 1 -Sherri Venditti
Xrays-Who pays
In a message dated 2/18/2003 10:06:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Who pays for the wrays? The breeder or the owner? The owner. Some breeders include a 'retainer' to cover xrays and neutering when you buy the puppy, then refund that money to you when you've done them...but it's your money they're giving back so I consider it the owner's expense. You're probably asking "Why should the owner pay the cost of information to help the breeder?" The answer is that the information benefits everyone; the breeder, the owner, and the breed. Janice talked about how the information benefits the owner, and it's true. As my dogs have aged, it's been very helpful knowing their orthopedic status. We expect breeders to evaluate their dogs for hereditary disease before breeding them. Certainly a dog affected by a hereditary disease like HD or ED is more likely to produce affected puppies than a dog that's not affected. But...these are polygentic traits (more than one gene involved) so it's not that simple. For polygenic hereditary disease, the majority of the information breeders need in order to make informed decisions is stored in the black beasties sleeping on our couches! Asking breeders to reduce hereditary disease without screening our companion dogs is asking them to build a Lincoln Log tower while wearing a straight jacket. At some point, years ago, I found that I care deeply about the breed as a whole...not just my own dogs. That translates into support for rescue, research, public education, learning about the standard, AND... doing everything I can to reduce the incidence of hereditary disease in our breed. That starts at home. :-) -Sherri Venditti Kalie, spayed at 7 mo OFA hips & elbows, CERF eyes Simca, spayed at 6 mo, GDC hips & elbows, PennHIP, CERF eyes, OFA cardiac Granger (intact), OFA hip & elbows, PennHIP, CERF, OFA cardiac, vWD DNA, AKC DNA.
Re: breeders
In a message dated 2/18/2003 7:03:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > The good route to finding breeders Oops! That should have said "A good route..." -Sherri V.
Re: Attracting aggression from other dogs?
Hi Martin, I would just reiterate what others have posted... 1) The dynamics change for the one dog on leash in an offleash group. 2) 10 months is teenage, testo-rush, time. In dogs, they seem to walk around with a sign on their head that says "I think I'm hot stuff...show me I'm not". And the mature males do. 3) Be extra cautious of the breeds that were historically bred for dog fighting or protection. That includes the various bull terriers, akitas, rotties, giant schnausers, et al. I won't even comment on some of the owners out there. 4) Few intact males are 100% trustworthy off leash and even if yours is, you never know when your dog will run into another intact male who isn't. Catch-22...your dog is at increased risk by being on leash, but also prone to finding himself in trouble off leash. All dog-dog interactions are much less complicated for a neutered dog (and less nerve wracking for you as well!) so unless you're growing Duncan up as a potential stud dog, I'd suggest neutering him sooner rather than later. Because living with an intact dog is rather more stressful than a neutered one, I like to screen my potential stud dog for hereditary diseases at 1 year. These screenings DON'T rule the dog in...but they will let me know when it makes sense to neuter sooner rather than later. At 12-14 months of age, I do hips, elbows, eyes, heart, and vWD DNA. (I use a vet who does the hip & elbow rads without meds so anesthesia's not a concern). If everything looks good at that point, he stays intact and we do final hip & elbow evaluations at 2 years. If not, he's neutered and we both have less stress in our lives. Of course I'm talking with my dog's breeder right along for her input. As a responsible breeder, she has an interest in the decision and she has valuable experience to share. -Sherri Venditti
Re: breeders
In a message dated 2/17/2003 3:52:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I'm wondering...Am I allowed to ask for breeder referrals on this list? I > live in Maryland and am searching for our first berner. Not having much > luck Hi Dee, The good route to finding breeders in your area is through the regional club, there are actually a few active in MD and people often belong to more than one. You'll find Breeder referral, membership, and event information on the websites. You should find links on berner.org and bmdca.org to the Mason Dixon BMD Club and the Potomac Valley BMD Club. DO plan to attend the Potomac Valley regional specialty (info ontheir website) coming up in the next 2-3 weeks. That will give you an opportunity to meet people involved in many aspects of the breed. On www.bmdca.org, take a look at the Info Series, "Buying a Puppy" article for what to look for...and what to look out for. On http://www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/berner1/checklist.htm print out the Breeder Checklist. The more comfortable you are with the items on there...and the implications of them...the better you'll be able to identify responsible breeders AND look for those whose priorities align well with your own. -Sherri Venditti
Re: new member who wants a Bernese
Hi Tami, You've come to the right place for first hand information on BMDs...all 2000 of us on the list could talk your ear off about ours . I'll give the 'short' answer to your questions, but encourage you to explore further...both online and with BMD fanciers in your region. >I have lots of questions on the BMD. >1- Are they as incredible as they look? If a Bernese is the 'right' dog for you, then living with them will enrich your life immeasureably. They are capable of having an incredibly deep relationship with their people that's hard to imagine until you've experienced it. That's a double edged sword as it means that the pain one suffers at their loss can be overwhelming. For some people, this relationship is worth the pain that will come at some point. Some people suffer it once and change breeds. And some people feel this 'closeness' downright intrusive and uncomfortable. >2-are puppies easy to train? Depends on the skill of the trainer . My first Berner gave me nightmares...literally!!! She was strong willed, independent, and incredibly smart. By the time she was 3 months old, she was in total control and heaven help me if I tried to establish otherwise. I took her to obedience classes for years and years and we did finally arrive at an 'accomodation'but only because I was just as stubborn as she. Eleven years and a few more Bernese later, I know that our first two years would have been VERY different if I'd been a more skilled trainer. I've learned a lot with each of my dogs and I'm always learning from others on the list and in class, so each one is easier to train. Of course, the next two also came from a different line...one that's well established for biddable, cooperative dogs. In general, Bernese are a working breed which carries a different 'mentality' than the sporting breeds. Sometimes I think Bernese were the model for the "B" school's WIIFM (what's in it for me?). If you build their desire to please you, by pleasing them in return, they're very easy to train. If you try to intimidate them into behaving as you'd like, you'll see them either shut-down and beome a puddle of non-functioning jelly...or, you'll see them determined to 'one up' you. Not good either way... > 3- how large can a female get? The height standard for bitches is 23"-26" at the withers (top of the should blades, base of the neck). A substantial bitch can be 105 lbs. or so. My two companion bitches are 25", 85-90lbs. Regardless of size...they are extremely strong, powerful, dogs. > 4-can they live in the Carolinas??? I'm worried about the heat. Heat and humidity are a very serious concern for the breed, they don't tolerate it well on the whole. They can, however, live in warm climes IF the owner manages things accordingly. It takes dedicated effort to get the exercise in when the weather's cool in the early AM or PM. > 5- do they shed alot? YES. Large dog with a long, double, coat = lots of tumbleweeds. > 6- do they like kids? A properly raised BMD of correct temperament should be wonderful with kids...however, not all Bernese have correct temperament and not all dogs are raised in such a way as to be 'good' with children. Both the 'nature' and the 'nurture' aspects require work to fulfill but when they come together, the results are truly wonderful. If temperament is a high priority for you, don't take it for granted. Look for breeders who also make it a high priority in their breeding program. Meet a wide variety of dogs and note the way in which they relate to the world and to strangers...find out what lines they're from and lookk for patterns. VISIT the breeder BEFORE you commit to buying from them...preferably beofre they have a litter on the ground. Meet their family of dogs and observe how they relate to you as strangers. Don't go strictly by what you see in the show ring...you'll get a better snapshot of temperaments at a club Fun Day than at any dog show. Use the berner.org archives to search for posts on the Blue Ridge BMD Club...I think there was a post of events fairly recently. The regional club is an excellent way to meet dogs, owners, and breeders to help you decide whether the BMD is the 'right' breed for you or not. The Potomac Valley BMD CLub is hosting an independent specialty in a couple of weeks. This is an EXCELLENT opportunity to meet people and dogs, You'll find info on their website. Many 'life with a berner' questions are honestly addressed on the bmdca.org website. Click on "Info Series" and you'll find articles on a wide variety of topics, including finding responsible breeders and "red flags" to watch out for. -Sherri Venditti
Arthroscopic elbow surgery (was Fresh Factors question)
In a message dated 1/23/2003 7:21:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My Molly is continuing to recover from a right-side TPO and also faces > arthroscopic elbow surgery fairly soon. Martha, Several people have asked about where to find surgeons skilled in doing elbow surgery arthroscopically. Can you fill us in on who you're planning to use and where they're located? -Sherri V.
All together now....
Anyone want to join me in a rousing chorus of "Happy Birthday" to Kalila? She turns 11 today and we're celebrating!!! ~ Sherri & Len Venditti
Housetraining while working
Several people have asked about housetraining tips for a working home. I apologize for not getting back to you individually, but I'm currently unable to keep up with my email so hopefully, this will do. The logistics are different for each of us but this is what worked for us when we brought home a new puppy. The used a vacation week and stayed home for the first week. My husband took a vacation week for the second week and stayed home. Before deciding to get the puppy, I had spoken with my employer about having a period of several months where I'd have "very" flex time (instead of the usual 2 hour leeway) and a "very" flex vacation schedule (taken in several hour chuncks instead of the usual 1/2 day min). He chuckled, called it "Peternity leave" and said fine. After the puppy's first 2 weeks when one of us was home with him, I started using vacation time as needed. At first, I took the morning as vacation time and went into work for the afternoon. I'd leave home around 1:30...knowing my husband would be home by 3:30... and work from 2-6. Then I started going into the office in the morning, then go home (20-30 min travel time each way) to spend time with the pup. I'd spend several hours with the pup, then leave for the office around 1:30. That way, the pup was never alone for more than 2 hours, we had several hours for potty, play, lunch, and training in between my work 'shifts', and I'd get at least 4 hours in at the office so I only used half a day of vacation time. Vacation time goes a lot further when you use it in half days... As the puppy matured a bit, I shifted my hours accordingly. Instead of going in for only an hour in the AM, I'd go for two. By this time, the puppy was out of the crate and spending his home-alone time in an xpen or a section of the porch when the weather was nice. Having other dogs to learn from and for company makes a BIG difference. This puppy was spending the day loose in the house by the time he was 4-5 months old. My first Berner (only dog at the time) was still getting into trouble at 17 months! Obviously not everyone has the flexibility I did or a partner with a schedule offset enough to shorten the time no one's home. The point is to explore your options...use vacation time, flex time, look into working from home, etc. You never know what you might be able to work out work-wise. One other suggestion... I made a point of being very public about the whole thing. I asked co-workers in advance whether they'd mind covering for my flakey schedule and I made everyone a part of the 'getting a new puppy' process. Sure they all thought I was certifiable...but they'd 'bought in' and were comfortable it. -Sherri V.
Re: Be suspicious of newspaper ads selling dogs
It would appear that we have a LOT of educating to do about puppy sources... At least one person I know was referred to an importer/broker who advertises in the Boston paper when they asked Angell Memorial for suggestions on finding a BMD puppy. -Sherri Venditti I wonder if they'll use Angell for the orthopedic surgery their puppy needs...
Re: Youngest Bernese Sire
In a message dated 2/10/2003 6:15:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Have any of you ever heard of such a young Bernese siring a litter? Jude, Here in the US, we have NO way of knowing the age at which a dog or bitch produces their first litter. Sires & dams are entered in the stud book only once, when their first litter is registered. Unfortunately, the stud book doesn't include their birthdate and the time lag between the litter's DOB and their publication in it varies so we can't be at all sure of the dog or bitch's age at the time of breeding. -Sherri Venditti
Re: trying to get information
In a message dated 2/8/2003 9:04:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >>> Is there some reason as a rescue dog that we should not >>> have access to this information? >> Depends on how you define "rescue dog". IF your dog came from a rescue >> organization, they may or may not have a policy with regard to releasing the >> dog's historymuch like an adoption agency. >> If your dog was rehomed with you by his breeder, there is no legitimate >> reason I can think of not to provide you with information about his >> parentage and relatives. > Okay, I have a question why is it "okay" for a rescue organization to > chose not to share this info, but not a breeder? I didn't say it was "ok", I just stated that it's a fact. Personally, I don't agree with it. I think all known medical and identity information about the dog should be provided to the adoptor. Assuming they're not incapacitated in some way, are there reasons I'm not thinking of for a breeder not to provide information to the adoptor of a dog they place? Very possible there are issues I'm not considering... -Sherri V.
Re: BERNER-L digest 4259
Hi Jenn, > How do I know the breeder I have pick is a reputable breeder? I look for *responsible* breeders. There are many breeders with "reputation", ie: well known...but that doesn't mean they are necessarily *responsible breeders* which is who I want to deal with. There are many things responsible breeders do and don't do that sets them apart from people who are simply interested in taking your money. Responsible breeders screen their dogs for hereditary diseases to minimize the risk of passing them on to their puppies. Most of these problems aren't visible, they require expert evaluation to detect. Before breeding, my dog was *certified* free of hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, eye diseases, von Willebrands Disease, and heart defects. The examinations and certifications were done by *board certified* radiologists, opthalmologists, cardiologists, and using DNA. They were NOT declaration made by my vet. *** The responsible breeder will make available to you *copies* of the clearance certificates for the diseases the sire and dam of the litter were screened for BEFORE you sign a contract or give a deposit.*** Instead of providing paperwork for the pedigree, clearances, titles, their contract, etc... profiteers will speak in general terms. Statements like: "Her hips are good", "My vet says she's healthy as can be", "The pups are from Champion lines", "I don't have cancer in my lines", "I've never had a problem with (hips, elbows, etc)", "I'll send you the paperwork after I receive your deposit", "These pups are from European lines, they don't have the problems Bernese here do", "A good friend of mine in Europe sent them to me..." Responsible breeders are happy to arrange a time for you to meet their dogs and see how they're raised. You won't be welcome when very young puppies are present or the weekend of their family reunion, but you should be able to arrange a mutually agreeable time to VISIT the breed. Responsible breeders have put a lot of effort into producing a litter of mentally and physically sound Bernese. Expect them to put just as much effort into deciding which home will be the best match for each individual puppy. If the breeder doesn't want to get to know you before agreeing to sell you a puppy, that says something about how much they care about what they produce. Most *responsible* breeders are actively involved with Bernese in more ways than just producing puppies. They're active in the national and regional BMD clubs, they do draft, obedience, therapy work, they mentor newcomers, they attend and volunteer to help out at specialties. In other words, they're active in, and give something back, to the BMD community. Be sure the person you're dealing with ACTUALLY bred the litter. I've heard of several people who were let to believe the person they spoke with on the phone had bred the litter, only to find out when picking up the puppy that they had been imported from eastern Europe, weren't AKC registered, and there were no health clearances or anything else. Not many people can walk away from the puppy at that point and the profiteers know it. It's getting harder and harder to know what sort of person you're really dealing with as the profiteers are pretty expert at playing with words so that you hear exactly what you want to hear. So maybe the best advice is to join and participate in your regional BMD community so you get to know who's for real and who's not on a first hand basis. -Sherri Venditti She seems > nice. How do I really know that she is right for me?
Re: Elbow dysplasia surgery?
In a message dated 2/8/2003 4:55:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Could anyone give us their experiences with surgery as we're unsure which > course to take? Jess, You'll hear a variety of experiences with elbow surgery, in part because "elbow dysplasia" is somewhat of a catch-all term that covers several different conditions. One suggestion I have is to see if there's a surgeon within range for you who's been doing the type of surgery you're considering arthroscopically. The technique is relatively new and not too many surgeons have much experience with it...but ifyou can find one who does it's worth investigating. -Sherri Venditti
Re: masticatory myositis
Hi Robin, If your girl is on pred for the long haul, you might consider switching her over the natural hydrocortisone. This is a highly refined, plant based, corticosteroid very similar in structure to the hydrocortisone produced by the body. It's metabolized rather differently than synthetics like prednisone. I have a bitch who's been on it since July 2001 for immune mediated polyarthritis. She's on a whole regimen of 'stuff' to help modulate the immune system and offset the effects of the steroids. She's doing well enough to take a Group 4 in an all-breed Match and Best in Match from the Veteran class at a BMD match. The NH does have side affects, but I find them MUCH milder and easier to deal with then the prednisone. You can't go mg for mg dosage-wise and moving from one to the other has to be phased in. Let me know if you want more details on the NH source and the supplements. BTW~ My vet is totally Allopathic, but she agreed to do the clinical and lab work and let me know if she thought I was heading for trouble with all the woo-woo stuff. After a year and a half on the regime, she's amazed at the condition my 7 yr old bitch is in. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Altered Classes
Hi Robin, I was trying to figure things out in the planning book and being from 'south of the border' , I'm totally confused! Can you straighten me out on how it works ... I guess the Altered classes are judged separately...like a separate show? When are they done? And what exactly is For Exhibition only? when do those dogs show? Also, Can you help with the rules for regular Veterans classes as far as altered vs not? It was a LOT easier when I just went without dogs! ~ Sherri
Re: Altered Classes
In a message dated 2/6/2003 1:19:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > P.S. "Pet owners" - altered dogs can be shown in the Sieger show - do the > US specialties have these shows in addition to their regular classes? Not to date. A Sieger show would be an optional event at the BMDCA national specialty and would be offered at the discretion of the club or consortium hosting the show. I don't recall one being offered since i've been attending the national (1994) but could be wrong. -Sherri V (Still angling for a Wet Dog Contest or Class)
Re: Altered Classes
In a message dated 2/6/2003 12:10:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I would like to see more altered dogs in the conformation ring as > a judgement of the type being bred to standard. I think your post has great merit Rose, I quite agree that a breeding program is best evaluated by the 'whole' of its production and not the exception. Unfortunately, the fancy in the US is generally quite adamant about the breed ring being focused on 'breeding stock', period. Under AKC rules, I even have to change my Veteran bitch's registration from Limited to Full in order to show her in Sweepstakes classes! -Sherri
Re: questionable behavior...looking for guidance
Hi Jeff, > I have a 5 month old berner pup that we have had since she was 7 weeks old ( > we picked her up on October 21, 2002, for age reference)and she has a > frequent peeing problem. Can you be more specific about "frequent"? Do you mean she pees frequently? If so, how often? When? What context? Or do you mean that she frequently pees inappropriately? If so, can you give more details of the context? > She is crated during the day and at night when we > are at work/sleeping, while in her crate she does not pee (approximate 10 > hours per day). How long is she crated between potty breaks? > When we let her out and play with her/spend time with her > she will anonymously pee in the house (not near the door to outside). Does she just pee when she wanders off or on your feet when you play with her? The reason for asking for so many details is that several different possibilities come to mind. Frequent and/or uncontrolled urination can be a sign of a urinary tract infection. If she's crated for lengthy periods, she may not relieve herself completely when you take her out to pottythen she "suddenly" has to go when she's back inside. If she's excited about being with you and playing, she may forget her recently learned control or she might be displaying submissive urination. It may be as simple as that she's not truly housetrained...that is, she hasn't yet fully learned all the aspects of this complex behavior. Housetraining involves several facets...she has to learn to 'hold it' rather than eliminate whenever and wherever the need arises, she has to learn not to eliminate inside the house, and she has to learn to let you know when she has to be let outside. Not eliminating in the crate isn't the same thing as housetrained. Most dogs will instinctively 'hold it' as long as they physically can while in their sleeping quarters. Learning to apply that to the entire house and then other buildings is a whole other thing. That part has to be learned before she can have an inkling about letting you know when she has to eliminate so you can let her outside. If there's no sign of frequent urination, her crate periods are of short duration, and she's not piddling on the spot in excitement, I'd suspect that going back to the basics of housetraining will address the problem. If you think that's the case, let me know and I can post what's worked well for me in housetraining pups when both my husband and I worked full time. -Sherri Venditti
Re: trying to get information
In a message dated 2/6/2003 12:42:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > We got our 'baby' from the breederhe was sold and then she traveled to > Nebraska to get him from the buyer when he could no longer keep him > My question is this: I have sent her several emails, requesting some general > information regarding his parents and siblings so that I can do some > research and do a family tree for himto put in his scrapbook.I have > also asked for his birthdate (we know it is in November 2001, but not the > date) and for the information regarding his micro chip. > No matter how many emails I send her, or how I ask, I can not get her to > reply to my emails with the information. > Is this normal? NO. > Is there some reason as a rescue dog that we should not > have access to this information? Depends on how you define "rescue dog". IF your dog came from a rescue organization, they may or may not have a policy with regard to releasing the dog's historymuch like an adoption agency. If your dog was rehomed with you by his breeder, there is no legitimate reason I can think of not to provide you with information about his parentage and relatives. There is also no reason I can think of why you wouldn't be provided with the option of registering him (if he wasn't registered already) or transferring his registration from the previous owner to yourself (if he was registered). You mention a microchip...do you have the number and registry? If not, can you have it scanned? ~ Sherri Venditti
60 Berners at auction
It is true...there are between 50-60 Berners consigned for sale at an auction this coming Saturday in Wheaton, MO. There are many ways you can assist in the rescue effort if you wish to do so. *** If you do not support these efforts, please delete now. *** FINANCIAL: Obviously this is a daunting number of dogs so it would take an avalanche of funds to get them all. My personal feeling is that each individual puppy we are able to place in a loving home (instead of going to a puppy mill or pet store) is a victory...for both the puppy and for we who love the breed. If you'd like to help financially, there are two vehicles. Your tax deductible donation to BARC (www.barcinc.com) is a wonderful way to help cover the veterinary and care costs that will inevitably come along with puppies from the auction blockin addition to supporting our ability to bid for dogs. You can also sponsor one or more puppies which will provide the means to get as many of the pups put up for bid as possible. Sponsorship makes funds available up front to enable the bidding process. When the pups are eventually placed, the sponsorship ends and your money is returned to you. I've done it for several auctions over the past two years (4 pups this time)...it works! Time is inordinately short so if you can offer financial support...either by donation or by sponsorship...please contact Amy by phone so she can coordinate our efforts: 913-837-4635. AUCTION ATTENDEES: Several of the people who usually go to the auctions on behalf of our breed are not able to attend this weekend. If you can make it to the Wheaton/Kansas City, MO area for early Saturday morning...we NEED your help. Contact Amy at 913-837-4635. FOSTER HOMES: Depending on how many of the pups we are able to get, we may have an emergency need for foster homes and transport. If you can help in this regard, please email Amy and let her know where you are, how many dogs you could foster, whether you could pick up or would need transport, any limiting factors, how many you could transport and where, etc. Email Amy at [EMAIL PROTECTED] ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: After the spay
In a message dated 2/5/2003 7:23:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: If not > why not Hi Emma, Glad Tatty's on the mend. > I have one question, can spayed dogs (and fixed male dogs) be shown? It depends on the country. In the US, the answer is generally no...but there are some exceptions for Veterans (7yrs and older) in some shows. (Too many ifs, ands, and buts to go into here.) In Canada, shows offer classes for "Altered" animals. I'm afraid I don't know what the policy is in France or under FCI regulations. > If not why not, The origin of the dog show was to evaluate and exhibit breeding stock. Some people feel that's still the primary reason for dog shows and there's no purpose to showing altered animals. Others feel that dog shows have become more of a sport than anything else and altered dogs should be able to compete in Altered classes. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: [BMDBreeder-l] 60 Berners at auction?
In a message dated 2/4/2003 9:10:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Does anyone know if this is true? Yes, it is true. According to the auction flyers mailed to prospective bidders there are close to 60 Bernese Mountian Dogs consigned for sale. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: Westminster Dog Show
In a message dated 2/3/2003 9:57:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Many people find breeders off-hand at shows without taking into > consideration that person's pre-occupation with the demands of the day:-) I would add that some people are not only focused, they find showing very stressful...and, while the national specialty is (imo) a bigger 'win' than Westminster...The Garden is THE most stressful show on the calender! (for both people and dogs) As Rose said, when people are focused or harried or stressed...they don't always put their best foot forward. The *good news* is that there are back to back shows coming up in March that ARE a good opportunity to meet people in the breed! The Ct River Working Group shows are supported entries on March 15 & 16 in W. Springfield, MA. The reasons these are good for introductions are that there's a large entry, a lot of spectators, a lot of room in the building...not nearly as hectic as all-breed shows, and the host clubs will offer Public Ed information and Hospitality each day. As always, best to talk with people after the judging or before if they're not exhibiting. I'll be there, happy to chat if you can make it. ~Sherri Venditti
MA- Eye Clinic
Don't see too many clinics in this area: Saturday, April 5 Milford, MA FMI: [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 508-252-3909 ~ Sherri Venditti
Agility training (was Re: (no subject)
In a message dated 1/31/2003 4:03:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I have an 8 mo old Berner who is quite smart. We would like to > start training him for agility. Hi Denise, My thoughts follow, but I do agility for fun and not competition so this is a pretty inexpert view. There are so many skills involved in agility, it's never too young to start working on many of them. You just want to keep in mind that Deuce's joints are still developing and therefore somewhat vulnerable and...that he's a teenager so his brain can go 'out to lunch' at any time without notice . So, my approach to agilty with a young dog is to work heavily on my relationship with the dog, teach them to work at a distance, follow my body, that kind of thing. I'll do the obstacles with my young dog BUT no where near competition height. I'd do low jumps, set the A-frame wide open (just prop up the center a bit if the chains won't go far enough), lowered dog walk, lowered teeter, etcand avoid a lot of repetition. What you're training for is the dog to do each obstacle in a FULLY controlled manner...not as a wild eyed hot shot. It's those flying leap moments that I think pose the most risk for youngsters so preventing them is the real challenge of doing agility with a teen. Agility puts the most stress on the front assembly of the dog, less on the hips. To get an idea of why this is so important to know, take a close look at a dog's skeleton. You'll see that the front end is made up of a succession of bones that aren't held together by much at all. No nice, tight, full contact support like you see in the ball and socket joint of the hips. In the front, it's bone to bone with little holding things in place but ligaments. Keeping that picture in mind will help guide you in deciding what and how much to have Deuce practice. And the decision IS up to you... some teachers are more knowledgeable about working with a large dog than others but the final decision on what to do and not during class is yours. Drop an email to Kris Osojnicki, [EMAIL PROTECTED], for info on the Berner Agility elist. I'm sure there's lots of experience there to take advantage of. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re: AKC Registration
In a message dated 1/29/2003 10:30:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > we as breeders can have control of the AKC registration. All we have > to do is before the pup leaves the house the registration is filled out and > signed by the new owner. Makes sense to me Elke! I wonder how many breeders do it? -Sherri
Re: BMDs & Eosinophilic Gastroenteritis
Hi Fred, I'm not a vet but everything you've described sounds very much like a severe case of "the gulps". You'll find lots of information on this in the Berner-L archives, just do a search on "Gulps". I haven't done the diagnostics that you have, but I have an 11 y.o. bitch who's prone to allergies and has had Gulps since she was a youngster. They got worse over time and got better and worse seasonally along with her foot licking. There were periods when I was up with her all night long for weeks on end. :( I was able to address her seasonal allergies with some basic supplements and get her off the pred regime during her worst periods, spring & fall. That process reduced the frequency and severity of her Gulps a great deal. With that success as a springboard, I finally took the plunge and switched her to a totally BARF diet so I could control ALL ingredients. (We realized early on that specific foods would set off the Gulps in a flash, and it only took a morsel!) In the course of refining her diet, I discovered that she is so sensitive to soy that most brands of Vit E (which is typically derived from soy) will trigger an attack. Beef, buffalo, wheat, most cruciferous veggies, and a few other things will as well. BTW~ Food allergies often develop over time so the food a dog has been fine on previously can suddenly become problematic. Also, food manufacturers tend to change their ingredients over time so the food can change without you knowing it. I found this by reading the label on the super premium kibble I'd used for years. The good news is that with her seasonal allergies under control and her diet under control, my old girl's virtually gulp free! The only exception is if she's put on some medications, such as antibiotics. If she does have to be on a medication that's a trigger, I give a Pepcid AC COMPLETE once a day (Berry flavored chewable, be sure to crumble it up before giving). The "Complete" contains a conventional antacid for quick knockdown AND a drug that reduces the production of stomach acid. It's VERY effective. For longer term use such as the presence of an inoperable mast cell tumor, the regular Pepcid AC is usually given daily. FWIW~ Based on the resports of many owners, there appears to be a connection between allergies and gulps. "Gulpy" dogs often have other outward symptoms of allergy (foot licking, hot spots, yucky ears, etc). Also, when the allergies are worse, the gulps are also worse, in frequency and severity. My *inexpert* theory is this: In an allergic reaction histamines are released (known). The histamine triggers an increase in production of stomach acid (known). This excess acid (and possibly reflux) results in what we see as "the Gulps" (theory). (BTW~In terms of your workups, the level of eosinophils circulating in the blood also increases as part of an allergic response (known).) The pred will give you quick knock down of an allergic reaction and the fish & potato diet should address a food allergy. If you use pred down the road, do keep in mind that it's very hard on the stomach so it can be a juggle between the benefit of the steroid and the possible aggravation of the irritated stomach problem. Assuming that there isn't some acid trigger going on (excessive stress and mast cell tumor are possibilities), I'd expect that Mick will be doing very well in no time. Once he's gulp free, go VERY slowly at reintroducing food items, treats, and supplements if you use any. Keep an eye on his footlicking, if it continues while he's on the fish & potato diet, there's a good chance it's due to an environmental allergen which you may not be able to eliminate. In that case, there are some very benign supplements that can be very effective in dealing with the allergy. If you're interested, I can share the protocol that's been successful for my girl for several years now. I have no financial interest in any of it and was quite the skeptic...trying the supplemental route as a long shot to avoid routine pred. Wasn't I surprised to find that it actually worked! -Sherri Venditti
Re: Seizures and anesthesia for MRI
Hi Thia, I don't have experience with what you're going through, but one way of approaching decisions like this is to consider what benefit will be gained by doing a proceedure that carries risk. I ask my vet if and how *knowing* will affect our treatment plan and outcome. Sometimes it IS critical to know what you're dealing with in order to gain a positive outcome. Sometimes, you'll feel the treatment is not a viable option so you wouldn't do it anywayin which case *knowing* is only valuable in terms of your 'need to know'. Sometimes, the future will be similar whether you know exactly what's going on or not. When dealing with risk or extreme discomfort for my dog, knowing the potential "gain" is a major part of my decision process. ~ Sherri Venditti
Re:
In a message dated 1/29/2003 6:43:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I guess my real question to the list is what are some of the more > unusual/unique tricks that your Berners do? I haven't done it...but the cutest trickster I've seen was a Sheltie. When her owner sneezed, she raced across the room, grabbed a box of tissues, and returned to offer them to her owner. Very cute... -Sherri V.
Re: gonna get bigger? - size vs longevity
In a message dated 1/29/2003 7:56:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, Brnrmom writes: > I would be very interested to know if the lighter boned Berners are actually > the longer lived ones. Is that why the dogs seem to "want" to stay smaller?? > Darwin, anyone?? Intuitively this would make sense, as smaller and more > moderate sized breeds in general tend to live longer. So I wonder if the > smaller, lighter boned dogs in a very short lived breed (like Berners) would > live the longest, as a whole (not a few individual dogs here and there.) > Wonder if this data can be accessed from Berner Garde or any other source? Interesting idea Vilma...but my intuition goes in a different direction . First because Darwin's premise depends on *natural selection*. There is nothing *natural* about the selection process in purebred dogs. Even in the earliest days of a breed, prior to naming or writing a standard for evaluation... the needs of men, movement of men, and geography of a region, determined the shape and temperament of the foundation stock from which the formalized breed would come. I think the tendancy toward the lighter built dog (and the oft found 'houndy head', 'snipey muzzle', curly coat, and gay tail, as well) goes back to the very beginnings of our breedthe specific dogs that made up the first Durbachler/Berner Sennenhund gene pool. In my version of genetics (totally inexpert!), genes don't really go away much...they mostly keep recombining with the genes for some characteristics becoming more prevalent and others less common, based on selection pressures over time. All of the 'undesireable' traits above are clearly evident in the foundation stock for our breed, dating to the early part of the 20th century. (http://www-nmbe.unibe.ch/abtwt/bmd_histpics.html) The breed was developing for roughly 50 years before the introduction of Newfoundland genes in 1948. One dog...Alex v. Angstorf born in 1952... the great grandson of the Newf (12.5% newf genes), would become the archetype for the modern Bernese and the lynch pin around which many generations of Bernese would be bred. My sense is that there was probably a sizeable narrowing of the gene pool (markedly increased coefficient of inbreeding) in the wake of Alex and that many (possibly most) of both the desireable and the undesireable traits we're working with now were funneled through him. Much as he was a striking, heavily built, dog... keep in mind that 87.5% of his genetic package came from those early Durrbachlers. So... I don't think we tend to drift towards the lightly built dog because it's a 'naturally' longer lived dog. I think it's just a very large part of our genetic heritage and there's no reason to think it wouldn't be expressed. -Sherri V. P.S.- I don't know how one could possibly garner accurate data to arrive at a more scientific answer. Big boned, substance, etc are all very subject terms that have never been quantified for data collection purposes. Weight doesn't tell you much because there's no way of knowing how much of that was fat, muscle, or bone. Height doesn't at all correlate with bone and substance so can't use that as a 'marker' either.
Re: gonna get bigger?
In a message dated 1/28/2003 5:45:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I'm wondering, when does the Bernese stop growing, and when they do stop > getting taller, etc, I think they usually have most of their full height by the time they're a year old. > do they then "fill out" Yes...through the teens to full maturity (2-3 years, sometimes longer) you'll notice slow changes. The ribs will 'spring', the back will broaden, the head will broaden, and the chest will drop. > and get that nice husky, big hunk of dog look? > Or does that depend on the genes? It does depend on the genes. > Most Bernese I've seen are the big full-chested, thick legged etc. That's a function of maturity and the dogs you've seen. If most of the Berners you've seen are carefully selected breeding dogs, the odds are they're more burly than average. In my experience, bone, chest, and substance seem to be pretty recessive in that even dogs who excel in those characteristics often produce lighter built offspring...with a few exceptional puppies in the mix. If the breeders behind your Berner have focused heavily on bone and substance for many generations, the odds increase that the puppies they produce will be heavily built. But...if you were to select breeding stock solely on those attributes, what do you think would happen to hips, elbows, health, longevity, and temperament? > My dog seems like she's kind of on the lanky side, > and not that filled out. (13 months old). She's a teenagerand just like a 13 y.o. girl...she's just beginning to develop her mature body. You won't know the finished product for another year or two. -Sherri Venditti
Re: AKC registry question
In a message dated 1/28/2003 10:43:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > So, register Nola and go for it!! Thanks Janice for writing all the stuff I was going to! PLEASE, do register your Berner puppy. You might think of it in terms of *why* you chose to buy a purebred. You paid all that money so that you'd have a good idea of what you would get, right? That benefit comes from pedigrees which are maintained in a *registry* so whether you plan to breed or show or not, it's important that your BMD be IN the registry. And, once your pup is registered...enter her in the Berner Garde database (http://www.bernergarde.org/) and update the record throughout her lifetime. For $15 and a couple of minutes to fill out the paperwork, there's no question in my mind... ALL BMDs eligible for registeration with the AKC should be. It's a part of our future. -Sherri Venditti
Re: lump question
In a message dated 1/22/2003 9:33:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My question is, are there any things I can do to try to determine if it's a > harmless lump or something more serious? One option is to do a needle aspirate. The vet will use a needle and syringe to try to draw up a few cells from the lump. If successful, he can either send the slide off to a pathology lab for evaluation or he can take a look at it himself for any unusual cells. My vet usually does the basic cytology herself and lets me know whether there's anything suspicious or not. If there is, I either remove the lump and biopsy it or do a punch biopsydepending on her findings and the location. Usually she comes up with sebacious cyst type stuff or lipoma (fatty benign tumor). Some types of tumor can be proliferated by anything that disturbs their integrity, such as infiltration with a needle of punch...that's a risk I take rather than repeatedly knocking my dog out for full excision or ignoring the lump all together (the other two options). -Sherri Venditti
Looking for Bruce
At the San Mateo specialty in '96 there was a booth for a local ceramist by the name of Bruce Ponte. He used to work out of Goldmine Studios in San Francisco but I can't find anything on the web for them. Does anyone know how I can contact Bruce? -Sherri Venditti
Re: Sponsors
In a message dated 1/20/2003 8:16:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I just began to investigate joining the BMD club and am confused by the > sponsors needed to become a member? How does one go about this if I don't > have any Berner owners near me or who know me? > I am not > sure how to proceed or if I should just forget it and continue to rely on > this mail list as my Berner link? Hi Jan, welcome to the Berner-L! The BMDCA is the "parent" club for Bernese (in AKC lingo) in the US. The reason for the 'sponsor' requirement for membership is that as the "parent" club, the BMDCA is responsibile for the breed standard and all dialogue with the AKC relevent to the breed. For those purposes, it makes sense to have a membership that already has a strong foundation in the breed. Which brings me to how to get that foundation... The starting point for most people is here, on the email lists focusing on Bernese...especially a broad subject one like the Berner-L. The next stop is your regional BMD club. The Regional clubs are in place specifically to provide owners with opportunities to meet one another, learn from each other, do fun things and learning things, and to support group efforts like rescue and public ed, etc. You'll find links to the regional clubs (along with a lot of other excellent information) on the BMDCA website (www.bmdca.org). Also, if you post where you're located, you may find other folks from your area on the Berner-L. So...join your regional club, participate in activities, volunteer to help out. Before you know it, you'll have an ever-widening circle of Berner friends. Then, if your interest lies in getting more involved with the breed on a national level, you'll have no problem finding people to sponsor your membership in the BMDCA. -Sherri Venditti (Can you send some puppy breathe this way?)
Pet store puppies (was Re: BERNER-L digest 4232)
In a message dated 1/17/2003 6:09:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > My daughter works for a vet and just let me > know that Shake A Paw Pet Store on Old Country Rd in Plainview New York has > a Berner pup for sale. > She said the store is disgusting and dirty. Can anyone help to get this poor > baby out of there? Hi Denise, Unfortunately, the retail sale of dogs is perfectly legal in this country so short of enforcing state and local regulations, there's not a lot to be done specifially for this pup. If you or anyone else buys him at or near the asking price, the store has made its profit on him, they'll see BMDs as a highly marketable commodity, and simply order another one to make more money on. That said, there ARE some things we as individuals working together CAN do. There's an ad hoc group of us who will monitor, buy, foster, and place a pet store pup IF we can do so at a price that doesn't put profit in the seller's pocket. If you or your daughter would like to help in this process, let me know and I'll send you/her some add'l information privately. ~ Sherri Venditti P.S.- For the sake of pet store puppies everywhere, CONTRIBUTE to the BMDCA Lobby Fund and/or the Light One Candle Fund. Details at www.bmdca.org
Re: Curious about problems I had with my Berner...(long)
In a message dated 1/16/2003 11:42:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I never heard about orthopedic problems like this - could > they be genetic? Hi Jen, I'm so sorry you went through this, it sounds like a nightmare for all of you. There are several things that could explain the series of problems you experienced. Yes, there may be a hereditary component to both knee ligament tear/rupture and luxating patellas (slipping knee caps). These are two different problems and little is know for certain about their etiology. That said, environment can also play a role. I know a young dog who ruptured both ligaments before he was a year old. The owner's property slopes steeply upward just behind their house and he loved running up and down the "mountain". Were his knee problems because of a hereditary predisposition or because of the way in which he played? We truly don't know. Just to confuse the issue further, auto-immune disease can attack connective tissue...such as ligaments. In that case, a dog that was perfectly fine may experience one problem after another due to the progression of the disease. And, Lisa mentioned yet another possibility. Chronic infection, failure to heal properly, pain, and inexplicable bone breakage can all be caused by cancer in the area. Finally, the quality of work done by the surgeon can be a factor. A friend recently told me about a dog breaking a bone (for no apparent reason) shortly after knee surgery done by a specialist. When the attending vet xrayed, he found that the bone had been severely 'knicked' with a bone saw during the previous surgery. This is the kind of wild card I hate to think about but it does happen in veterinary medicine just as it does in human. As to whether this is indicative of a responsible breeder or could have been prevented, that's awfully difficult to sort out. Certainly even the most responsible breeders produce a dog with exceptional problems once in a while...a fluke. Certainly, some breeders would disregard (or chose not to know about) a pattern of knee problems in their line and continue as though nothing was wrong. I think that at this point, my main view of the breeder would be based on how he/she responded to all of this. Was she supportive? interested? concerned? caring? Did she provide quidance? offer a shoulder to cry on? cry with you? or Did she disappear from the face of the earth? not return phone calls? not respond to emails? blame you? make you feel guilty? The responsible breeder would do at least some of the former... ~ Sherri Venditti
