RE: Puppy games and socialization

2003-07-19 Thread Rose Tierney
H Arie,
I would discontinue playing the chase game:-) Right now he is little and
very soon he will be about 100lbs and in between there is a "hooligan"
stage and you might just find yourself with some bruises! Also it
encourages him to chase humans, not a good idea if he were loose in the
park and kiddies were running nearby. A better alternative is for you and
your wife to stand a short distance apart and call him to you and give a
treat when he sits nicely in front or beside you. Just do this a few times
as Berners bore easily with repetitive games. You can buy a dispensing
treat ball and serve lunch in that and let him bat it about and use his
nose to find the treats.  There are constructive games to play with puppy
and you should think through your activities and ask yourself if he becomes
overly excited or aggressive when you play with him whether the resultant
behaviour is going to be so appealing when he is full grown. Find a Puppy
Kindergarten group with motivational training and continue with Basic
Obedience.

Have fun but close your eyes and think 100lbs of Big Bear:-))

Rose T.



Puppy games and socialization

2003-07-18 Thread Arie Smouter
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RE: dog-dog socialization

2003-02-05 Thread Anita Schrodt
Is your pup an only dog?  It would help if he could spend some time with
an older dog very savvy in dog-dog relations, who can help teach pup how
to play.  From what I've seen, puppies really learn how to play from
older dogs, not from equally clueless puppies .

My Berner Bria was taught how to play by a wonderful older Tervuren
bitch.  And I'm serious, I watched this in two sessions and the Terv was
very focused in her instructions -- how to approach and back off, how to
invite play and follow-through, how to tell other dogs to back off, how
to "dodge", etc.

Bria in turn taught my Border Terrier how to play and he, in turn,
taught the most recent addition - a terrified 2-year-old Yorkie who had
NEVER played with another dog  -- how to play. Said little Yorkie is now
INCREDIBLE with all dogs, all ages, all sizes.

It takes an older dog who is willing to "pretend" that the puppy is
winning a battle or controlling the play, who will pretend that the
puppy is stronger in tug, etc.

If you know someone with a savvy older dog -- of any breed -- I'd
arrange to spend some time with that dog.  Emphasis on "savvy" here
because you want your pup learning GOOD play habits, not bad ones .

PS, if you live anywhere near Grinnell, Iowa, come on over and bring pup
-- we've got several trusted older dogs here who are most excellent at
this job!

Anita Schrodt
In Grinnell, IA with 3 Berners, a Border Terrier and a Yorkie
NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




dog-dog socialization

2003-02-02 Thread kathleen mcguire

Hi all :) My 4 month old boy is such a sweet, smart, funny character but for 
some reason at puppy school he WILL NOT play with the other puppies. He 
sniffs for a minute (on leash) then cowers away from them. He hides in the 
corner during off leash time and if any of the others come to him he runs 
away. Our trainer says it may take a couple of weeks but this is our third 
week and she's getting concerned. She wants us to go to another class (in 
addition to our regular one) in order to get him out of his shell somehow. 
Does anyone have any ideas? Is this really bad? Will he grow out of it? I 
don't want to have a "fear biter" on my hands in a year. Help...




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Re: Socialization of dogs

2002-12-21 Thread jane heggen
One of the reasons for the different breeds in my house is I love the
personalities.  The way you describe your first Berner, Jenn, reminds me of
my Leo, Cowboy.  Cowboy is a "thinker", a very smart boy, CGC in nothing
flat, clicker trained easily.  Bored easily.  He loves people, but when
first approached, with tail wagging, he ducks when a stranger reaches out to
pat his head.  Doesn't move his feet, doesn't stop wagging his tail, but
like your pup he's almost saying-geez, wait a minute, I don't even know you.
This is one of the few times he doesn't bark or talk in any way.  He seems
to want a chance to sniff first.  Now, once he knows you, don't you even
think of ignoring him or he will grumble, woo hoo, bark, whatever it takes.
He's a hoot!

I will never forget being out on the back porch one morning early drinking
my coffee when I hear a faint cry of my visiting sister for "Help!" coming
from the house.  I walk in to see my sister on the stair landing, and 5 big,
grinning ear to ear dogs waiting for her to come down the rest of the way!
Cowboy in particular vocalizing his delight to my sister's horror.  No way
was she coming down stairs without me there.  We laughed and laughed and I
forever tease her about my big, bad dogs trapping her.

Right now I am totally in love with my Pyr, Bean.  He is my oldest and for
some reason is getting a little more demonstrative and playful.  He'll come
up and touch me with his nose, just a little shove.  He has a look in his
eyes and a grin, wanting me to get up and "chase".  This means chase about 6
feet at the most before I grab him in a bear hug, tell him how much I love
him, and give him a great back, butt scratching.  Ah, it's heaven to
this guy.

Now while all this is going on we are surrounded by the black boys (the
Berners-we are racially blended, obviously!), bouncing, bouncing , bouncing
"me, me, me next" attitude!  Freckles is generally barking non stop while we
all ignore him (Damn it you guys, I am small but have a mighty bark!  Pay
Attention)  Zeke will most likely jump on the couch and flop back wards
with big, looking like beer belly, pointing  to the ceiling.  One of these
days I expect him to reach down and scratch his privates and belch!  Weaver
will be looking soft, reaching out with one paw quietly, asking " Can I have
just a little?  I don't like all this noise but I do love you and would like
a cuddle."

okay, it's a zoo, but I love it!

jane heggen & the boys of iowa (who are all very different with one mom)




Re: socialization

2002-12-21 Thread Jennifer Popp
I kind of knew I wasn't going to get a definitive answer. But I sure thought
if there was one, I'd get it here. I imagine there are always too many
variables to come to any conclusive answers.

It's a lovely debate, though. I enjoy reading differing experiences. I can't
imagine I'd ever be a good breeder. I'm too much of a control freak. I'd
have every minute of the first year of the pup's life mapped out with what
to do when, what to expect when, what school to go to, what to feed, when to
alter, what shots to give, and when oiy vey!!

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
| So - you have no definite answer I think The answer is yes





Re: socialization

2002-12-21 Thread gwebara

On Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:20:36 -0500 "Jennifer Popp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:

> So that's what begged the question, was I a better owner/trainer for 
> the
> third dog (in this particular pack) or was it luck of the [genetic] 

After reading the replies you got I would say you have been given some
very good information. The debate over nature vs nurture is one that has
raged for years in regard to both dogs and people. I do not think they
are seperate issues but closely entertwined. A puppy with a genetically
sound temperament does not shy from loud noises, does not back away from
large people or dogs, does not run away from new situations. He does not
have a melt down during the first second or however many fear periods
exist. He can endure isolation, horrible treatment and situations and
bounce back with proper training love and care (witnessed by the shelter
and rescue dogs that end up loving devoted pets). This is genetics

That you are a better owner/trainer is no doubt. You have learned.
Training has become more instinctual for you and you aren't having to
think about every command and your timing with praise is probably faster
and more consistent. This can help take any puppy with a slight to
moderate temperament flaw and mold it to a point that is less apparent
and livable for you and the dog. So - you have no definite answer I think
The answer is yes 

Susan Ablon
Gweebarra BMD
Balch Springs, Tx
http://www.pageweb.com/gwebara




Re: Socialization of Dogs

2002-12-21 Thread Jennifer Popp
Well I do feel I found a great puppy school when we brought the third dog
home. He has a web site http://www.beachescanineacademy.com that does go
into the different periods of dogs. The first two dogs went to the same
training school (pretty old school, now that I know better -- not choke
collar old, by the jerk and praise methodology). But they are a GSD and BMD,
so I can't compare them as they are totally different in just their
different breeds.

This puppy school even had an exercise called "pass the puppy" and we'd all
sit in a circle and pass the puppies around to the next person and give them
loving. An absolutely fantastic exercise, IMO.

And I do feel that a good puppy school is critical. But it doesn't appear to
be stressed as so critical. And a good school can do so much for the dog
whereas a bad school can set the wheels in motion for continuing to handle
situations poorly.

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: "JEvans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
| There is a second fear period that dogs experience anywhere from between
| about 4 to 10 months, lasting a few weeks, wherein the dogs are skittish
even in
| situations they had previously been fine in.

| Also, IMVHO:  a puppy class tailored to pups between ages about 8 weeks to
| 4 months is the very best thing you can do for a dog!  The good puppy
class will be
| structured for some puppy play time, lots and lots of socialization and
desensitization to
| people, noises, objects, surfaces and will use food to desensitize the
pups
| to scary things. (people in hats, with beards, children, vet procedures
| (mock),  other pups, puppy agility obstacles, etc!!)  There would also be
| good instruction on operant conditioning and teach the owners how to use
| the techniques as well as work on bite inhibition and some basic obedience
like sit, down
| come. .




Re: socialization

2002-12-21 Thread Jennifer Popp
Well this is it, Lisa. I wish I had known more about the fear periods when I
had my first dog, let alone any dog that followed :-). I am 100% sure I
didn't handle those fear periods well in all but the last berner. Each dog
I've been better with but I did more reading between dogs (so to speak) and
was much better prepared this last round.

So that's what begged the question, was I a better owner/trainer for the
third dog (in this particular pack) or was it luck of the [genetic] draw and
I (or the training school) had little influence. If the dogs were even
remotely similar, I might not be so curious. It's that they are polar
opposite that I'm wondering how much breeding or training has to do with it.

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: Lisa Baldwin
| with some breeds there does seem to be a genetic problem that doesn't
pop up
| until the second fear imprint period. with dogs from these lines (we have
| particularly noticed it in shelties & gsds) they hit that second fear
| imprint period like a wall & recover slowly, if at all.





Re: Socialization of dogs

2002-12-21 Thread Jennifer Popp
Excellent points Rose. The first berner does not show any fear when he ducks
from an unwelcome pat. His tail is still up (he walks with quite the raised
'banner'). It appears as though he's saying "hey, I haven't given you the OK
to touch me, I'm still checking you out." Not a bad thing by any means. And
the one bark he belts out is quite a deep, throaty bark. Not continual, not
annoying, just one "HEY" (in dog language sound like a bark :-)). And like I
said he's VERY cuddly with those he knows.

The second berner is still young (18 months), and like I said, the 'baby' of
the family. He's got two older ones who seem to do a fine job of being
reserved. He may become more aloof, or he may stay his same goofy self.
Either is fine.

As with everything in dog-dome, I find behaviour of dogs so fascinating. And
because the variables had changed so drastically between both dogs, I was
wondering what they were born with and what they get from training class,
and the rest of life experiences.

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: "Rose Tierney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 You say your first dog is initially reserved with strangers but mushes
up with them once he knows them. This type of character is perfectly normal
and what one should expect with a breed that has a watchdog heritage. 

...If your second dog is the goon that wiggles and smooches up from the get
go he is actually a more submissive dog, which is sounding like it suits you
perfectly. 




Re: Socialization of Dogs

2002-12-20 Thread JEvans
>So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait?
I>s it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that
>much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any
l>ight on this??

Certainly a genetically timid dog could show the behaviors you mention, and 
even if well
socialized can still show fear.  If the dog lacks socialization in early 
critical periods
or experiences trauma (that can be different for each dog!) in a fear 
period, then the dog
can later have problems specific to that trauma or even generalized, 
*global* fear.
There is a second fear period that dogs experience anywhere from between 
about 4 to 10
months, lasting a few weeks, wherein the dogs are skittish even in 
situations they had
previously been fine in.  Trauma in that period can also have negative 
effects on the dog.
It's important during both the early period and later to keep things upbeat 
and safe for the
dog.  Giving lots of praise for desired behaviors with food rewards, not 
forcing a dog to go up
to someone or accept petting, and also  _not_ coddling the fearful/timid 
responses is helpful.  To most dogs, food = good, so they make the 
association that: person approaching means I get lots of really yummie food 
while I sit calmly, paying attention to my owner, cool!  If they are too 
afraid to take food or about to harm themselves or others or threaten to do 
so, then get them out of the situation and find someone/some way to work 
with you and the pup to make life as good as it can be!  (I'm talking about 
*you* in general, not Jennifer)
On the other hand, some more assertive, friendly dogs might miss all 
opportunity for
socialization and still turn out to be the best therapy dog ever.  It 
really can be due to
genetics or experience.

Also, IMVHO:  a puppy class tailored to pups between ages about 8 weeks to 
4 months is
the very best thing you can do for a dog!  The good puppy class will be 
structured for some
puppy play time, lots and lots of socialization and desensitization to 
people, noises, objects, surfaces and will use food to desensitize the pups 
to scary things. (people in hats, with beards, children, vet procedures 
(mock),  other pups, puppy agility obstacles, etc!!)  There would also be 
good instruction on operant conditioning and teach the owners how to use 
the techniques
as well as work on bite inhibition and some basic obedience like sit, down 
come.  There would
not be any punishment nor choke or prong collars used. The pups will learn 
to offer behaviors and owners learn that their job is to pick which ones to 
reward.

A pup's development can also be affected/enhanced by earlier experience 
provided not only
by the litter and mother, but by the breeder.  Things like handling, 
exposure to temperature
changes (brief), while the pups are quite young have been shown to enhance 
later development!

That's way more than I intended to write, but I just think that good puppy 
classes do so much
good for pups and owners that I got a little carried away

Jill with Indie and Gabby





re: socialization

2002-12-20 Thread Lisa Baldwin
socialization needs to be continued for the first full year in my opinion.
there is a second fear imprint period that occurs for most dogs somewhere in
the 6 mos to 1yr area.  this is a time to return almost to puppy style
socialization especially for any individual dog who has had difficulties
with earlier socialization & for any breed of dog that tends to require more
socialization - which would include bernese.

with some breeds there does seem to be a genetic problem that doesn't pop up
until the second fear imprint period. with dogs from these lines (we have
particularly noticed it in shelties & gsds) they hit that second fear
imprint period like a wall & recover slowly, if at all.

just the experience of myself & several of my friends who are trainers.

lisa baldwin 
(dickens, bark & zel)
seattle, wa
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




RE: Socialization of dogs

2002-12-20 Thread Rose Tierney
Hi Jenn,
I don't know your dogs so can't gauge their full temperament and character
but the standard does allow for a degree of reservation. You say your first
dog is initially reserved with strangers but mushes up with them once he
knows them. This type of character is perfectly normal and what one should
expect with a breed that has a watchdog heritage. He is not supposed to
throw down the welcome mat for all but when he sees that person is
acceptable to you allows himself to be handled, that is a good watchdog.
Providing the dog is not rolling his eyes, ducking his head to one side and
jamming his tail up his crotch but standing with presence (not hackled or
growling) it wouldn't bother me if he chose to act the protector when
approached by a stranger but I would expect him to relax quickly which your
post implies your first dog does.
If your second dog is the goon that wiggles and smooches up from the get go
he is actually a more submissive dog, which is sounding like it suits you
perfectly. He may actually read your body language quicker and realise all
is well, does he still overgreet people who you are not comfortable with??
This might make an easy affable pet for you but not likely to protect you
from the mad axman!

Rose Tierney


-Original Message-
From: Jennifer Popp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: December 19, 2002 7:22 PM
To: Bernese Mountain Dog Mailing List
Subject: Socialization of dogs


Ok, I've got a general question for the wealth of berner knowledge on this
list. And I'm sure this question will be one of those that had widely
opposing views, so be kind to Pat and don't get nasty. Here goes

I remember when I got my first berner (5 years ago) some admirers of the
breed I'd meet along the way would comment on the temperament they saw
creeping into, what used to be, a very friendly breed. That temperament
being shier, more aloof, less approachable, etc.

As I always do, I brought my new berner to obedience school (at 3 months)
and socialized him with other animals, adults and children (as well as
traffic, trucks, etc.). I would have thought I had done a good job of
exposing him to different things as he grew up. But then at around 9
months,
he started showing signs of the very behaviour I described above. He will
approach anyone he doesn't know with reserve and don't dare pet him until
he
says it's OK. Reach out to pat his head and he will jump back and possibly
bark. Once he knows a person, he's more loveable than any berner on the
planet. He actually squeaks if he's happy to see someone he knows.

Now my second berner is the polar opposite. He does the full body wiggle as
he approaches ANYONE. But he went to three levels of what I'd call a better
obedience school. I even went as far as bring him at 9 weeks of age because
I believed the risk of him contracting some puppy disease was less of a
worry than him being under socialized. (Now that's not the point of the
story, so don't anyone start ranting about this aspect, as I would do it
again.)

So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait?
Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make
that
much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any
light on this??

Some notes: I'm not saying either way is right, I'm just wondering what
would determine such a huge variance in social behaviour. Second note: each
berner is from a different breeder with (probably) no ancestral links in
their pedigree. Third note, both are altered males, one altered at 1 year,
one at 5.5 months. First berner was not first dog, we have a GSD that is
three years older than the first berner -- each dog is approximately three
years difference in age. I'd have to say, I'm not a dog idiot, I have read
many books on training and dog behaviours and my training is based on
positive rather than negative. Is it just that the owner gets that much
better with each dog they add to the family??

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]





Re: Socialization of dogs

2002-12-19 Thread Eileen Morgan


- Original Message -
From: "Jennifer Popp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of
trait?
> Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make
that
> much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any
> light on this??

My firm belief is that you have a basic mammal, of whatever type, and then
from there that mammal interacts with the environment and develops into
whatever it  is going to be. I've raised many dogs, horses, cats, etc., and
observed countless more. I am a big fan of 50-50 nature/nurture, with the
scales sometimes tipping to nature if there is a serious imbalance or health
issue.

Eileen Morgan
The Mare's Nest
http://www.enter.net/~edlehman


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Socialization of dogs

2002-12-19 Thread Jennifer Popp
Ok, I've got a general question for the wealth of berner knowledge on this
list. And I'm sure this question will be one of those that had widely
opposing views, so be kind to Pat and don't get nasty. Here goes

I remember when I got my first berner (5 years ago) some admirers of the
breed I'd meet along the way would comment on the temperament they saw
creeping into, what used to be, a very friendly breed. That temperament
being shier, more aloof, less approachable, etc.

As I always do, I brought my new berner to obedience school (at 3 months)
and socialized him with other animals, adults and children (as well as
traffic, trucks, etc.). I would have thought I had done a good job of
exposing him to different things as he grew up. But then at around 9 months,
he started showing signs of the very behaviour I described above. He will
approach anyone he doesn't know with reserve and don't dare pet him until he
says it's OK. Reach out to pat his head and he will jump back and possibly
bark. Once he knows a person, he's more loveable than any berner on the
planet. He actually squeaks if he's happy to see someone he knows.

Now my second berner is the polar opposite. He does the full body wiggle as
he approaches ANYONE. But he went to three levels of what I'd call a better
obedience school. I even went as far as bring him at 9 weeks of age because
I believed the risk of him contracting some puppy disease was less of a
worry than him being under socialized. (Now that's not the point of the
story, so don't anyone start ranting about this aspect, as I would do it
again.)

So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait?
Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that
much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any
light on this??

Some notes: I'm not saying either way is right, I'm just wondering what
would determine such a huge variance in social behaviour. Second note: each
berner is from a different breeder with (probably) no ancestral links in
their pedigree. Third note, both are altered males, one altered at 1 year,
one at 5.5 months. First berner was not first dog, we have a GSD that is
three years older than the first berner -- each dog is approximately three
years difference in age. I'd have to say, I'm not a dog idiot, I have read
many books on training and dog behaviours and my training is based on
positive rather than negative. Is it just that the owner gets that much
better with each dog they add to the family??

Jenn Popp

Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet
http://www.healthy-paws.ca
Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]





socialization

2002-10-14 Thread Lisa D Allen

One of the many things that I do in ongoing socialization of pup/dog is to 
take them to my local (Ford) dealer just for a visit.  When I was 
negotiating the lease of my present van, Moses sat in the (Ford) office with 
me.  This way, they can hear different noises (at a distance, of course and 
on leash, of course) and meet a bunch of fellows who are eager to play with 
them!
Lisa Allen



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Re: Socialization

2002-10-13 Thread Sarah Jarrett

How about big family gatherings, i.e. Thanksgiving and Christmas, or
Halloween night with the door bell ringing constantly and children running
in your yard?

Sarah Jarrett and my new Berner pup, Joy!





Re: Socialization

2002-10-13 Thread Kelly

I have always taken my puppies out of their own environment to experience
new things and sounds. We live on a main road, so one thing I do is to take
them with us when we go north and go to the gravel pits to sight in the
hunting rifles (no flames please). I keep them a safe distance away, out of
harms way, and let my husband go to work at sighting in his guns. The dogs
at first are startled but then relax and by the time the second day has
rolled around of this they are comfortable with the sound. The main reason
for this is we have a lot of trucks that go by and at least once a day we
have blow outs that occur, which obviously sound like a gun going off. I had
one dog I did not do this with and he freaked every time this would happen,
so I make it common practice now to get them used to this noise. I take them
everywhere with me to get them accustomed to strange people and
surroundings, noises they will eventually hear in life and to make sure they
are well adjusted all the way around.

I take them shopping when I go to get dog shampoos, treats, toys and just
for plain fun. I used to walk into our local drug store with Dillon (they
did allow me this courtesy) and pick up one of his diarrhea meds. There are
many places my dogs have been allowed into without problem and the
socialization has been great for them. I start this a day or two after they
come home, usually at 8 weeks of age or so. Also going to an obedience class
with other dogs helps as well. It does help to get them out into the world
to experience all of these things, what you will find is that after putting
so much effort into socializing your puppy, you will generally have a well
adjusted dog.

Just things I have experienced with my dogs. By the way Hope loves to go
hunting with dad and doesn't mind the sound of the rifles at all. Matter of
fact when she hears it, she is at the door waiting to go with dad into the
woods.

Kelly Weir and Hope (who said berner's couldn't hunt!)
http://home.twmi.rr.com/skylinebmd/index.html/hopeindex.htm




More on Socialization

2002-10-13 Thread catherine green

I've also pulled my car over to get Mickey out and have him meet
retarded people in wheelchairs, little kids and a guy on crutches!

Catherine Young
Madison WI
Shadow & Mickey




RE Socialization

2002-10-13 Thread catherine green

Great list of socialization needs! I can't think of anything to add. But
I also can't stress enough the importance of socialization. Our rescue
dog, Shadow, seems to have never been socialized to anything but other
dogs. When we got him he was incredible sound sensitive. Movements and
people really scared him and he seemed baffled by toys and had a very
hard time with doorways. When we got Mickey, temperament was of the
utmost importance to us since we wanted to balance  out our little pack.

We took Mickey everywhere - and exposed him to as much as possible. As a
result, he is pretty comfortable with lost of stimuli and situations.
And one thing i would also recommend is taking your puppy to "visit" the
vet frequently. We took Mickey just to say Hi and to get weighed. He
loves his vet and thinks that goint to the vet is great.

The one area where I fell down was in nail clipping and hygiene. One of
the first times I clipped Mick's nails, I cut too deep and he bled like
a stuck pig. (okay, maybe I'm a little emotional about this) I freaked
out. I called the emergency vet and they told me what to do. Must've
thought I was a total idiot. But because I freaked out so badly, Mickey
has been goosey about anil trims ever since. Lesson -- start the nail
thing slowly and if there is blood, the puppy isn't going to die, so
don't freak out. Next puppy, I'll do better. Each new critter is a
learning experience!

Catherin Young
Madison WI
Shadow & Mickey




Re: Socialization

2002-10-13 Thread mcagwin

Kelly-

> so one thing I do is to take them with us when we go north and go to the
gravel pits to sight in the
>hunting rifles (no flames please). I keep them a safe distance away, out of
harms way, and let my husband go >to work at sighting in his guns.

This is not a bad idea.  One of the requirements for passing a Temperament
Test (TT) is the dogs appropriate reaction to gunfire.  They can react, but
not be fearful.  You don't need your flame retardent suit for this one.


Janice Parky
North Truro, MA




socialization

2002-10-12 Thread Lisa Baldwin

i would add touching to your list.

when we do a puppy class, we start with the basic all over exam - eyes,
mouth, ears, body, legs, feet. then we add hugging restraint. this is how
your dogs will be restrained at the vets, they might as well get used to it.
i always tell people that the dog doesn't have to like this, he only has to
tolerate it. we then move on to hugs from the front, swooping hugs from the
front, hugs from the rear, gentle tugs on tail, feet, & ears. i usually add
one thing a week, depending on the puppies. i also tell them to hire their
friends to come & help train their puppies. have a pizza party. your puppy
can greet (not leap on) each person as they come in the door. your puppy can
be passed from person to person for petting & gentle hugging. your puppy can
play recall games all around the circle. these are all helpful in teaching
your puppy to accept people handling him.

most dogs go through a period in adolescence (6-12 months usually, depending
on breed & individual) they will often regress in socialization & training
during this period. while not encouraging the shy behaviors, you need to
support your puppy, continue with your socialization & training, & continue
to build his confidence in you & people in general. it can be very
discouraging, since he was so great just a few months ago, but many dogs
will eventually recover. how fond they are of strangers under various
circumstances will depend on the dog's basic temperament & your
modifications (which only go so far) of that temperament based on
socialization & training.

lisa baldwin 
(dickens, bark & zel)
seattle, wa
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




RE: Socialization

2002-10-11 Thread Mary Dawn DeBriae

I would be interested in this, too, as we are about to get our 2nd pup next
week! We are sooo excited. I would especially be interested in learning more
about this "fear" period...our Schlappi got it from about 6
months...suddenly and without reason...and began coming out of it around 1
year old. It was really scary, as he went from being a super gregarious
puppy to having a fear of some people - especially men with hats!

Now he is much better and I hope that he has "grown" out of it.

Any info on helping to avoid these months of unexpected fear in our dogs
would be great!

Thanks!

Mary Dawn

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Lucy & Yogi
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 9:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Socialization


Back around the time that I first brought Tucker home, someone posted to
the list an excellent "socialization checklist" of things to be sure and
expose your puppy to before 6-7 months of age to maximize his experiences
before that fear period set in.  I can't find the original post (suspect
it's on my other computer), but that list was so helpful to me.  I've
written below the things that I've made sure that Tucker has encountered in
a positive manner in his young age (he's 8mos now) - it's by no means
comprehensive, in fact I know I've missed some things like wheelchairs,
sheep, goats, chickens etc (other barnyard animals), canoe rides etc, but I
thought I'd share it for new puppy owners, and also to seek input on what
I've missed.  I'm lucky enough (IMO) to live in a small town so most of
these things occur within a ten or fifteen minute walk, if not right
outside our front or back door.

What would you add to this list?

Outdoor Transportation:
Plane ride home
Lots of car rides - short and long (up to four or five hours)
Boat rides
Bicycles
Dirt bikes
Motorcycles
Scooters
Rollerblades
Watch the train go by - hear whistles, rattles etc
Air Brakes on big trucks (18 wheelers)
Police, fire, ambulance sirens

The Big Outdoors:
Coyotes howling
Dogs barking
birds chirping, whistling and cooing
Squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, mice
Water - shallow and deeper, puddles, lakes, rivers, streams, wading pool
Grass - short like the lawn
Grasses - high in the field (waist high now - they grew along with him )
Sandy beaches
Rock faces
Woods/Forest
Mud, glorious mud
Climbing up on and over rocks, logs, picnic tables etc in the parks
rabbit holes and groundhog holes
Thunder storms and howling winds (I love these and I think the dogs pick up
on that)
Pouring rain
Deep snow, shallow snow
Paved and unpaved roads

Around the House:
Vacuum
Hair Dryer
Blender
Oven Timer
TV, Radio, Alarm Clocks
Phone ringing
Smoke Alarm
Doors slamming
Floors - carpet, tile, hardwood, linoleum
Slippery PT deck, small stairs and large stairs
Broom (his favourite)

People:
Hats, glasses etc
Small children, larger children, teenagers
Seniors
Walkers
Crutches
Watching tennis, children's and adult's softball and soccer games at the
park (through spring and summer we made this a part of at least two walks a
week to sit and watch the games for ten or twenty minutes so that he'd hear
clapping, cheering, cursing, hollering etc and watch people of all sizes
running around madly after the ball   It was also a great way for him to
meet kids of all ages since we don't have any)

Other Animals:
Horses
Cows
Cats
Bunnies (domestic)
Birds (domestic)

Work/Office/Other Places/General:
Fax machine
Delivery guys (uniforms)
Heavy machinery - lift trucks, order pickers etc (hang out in a Home Depot
parking lot on a  sunny afternoon and you get lots of socialization
opportunities)
Shopping carts
Overnight stays in different places i.e. cottage, in-laws etc with us
Scales at the vets (this has been a bugaboo - don't really know why) - we
go the vet every month for a weigh in and treats - he loves everyone there
Parades - been in two with him (small town, remember, a parade is about
four blocks!)
Carnivals - watched set up and hung around outside for an hour listening to
midway sounds, rides, screams etc
Puppy school - other dogs, different surfaces, mini agility equipment
Brushing
Tooth brushing
Baths
Nail clipping
Picking out burrs





Socialization

2002-10-11 Thread Lucy & Yogi

Back around the time that I first brought Tucker home, someone posted to 
the list an excellent "socialization checklist" of things to be sure and 
expose your puppy to before 6-7 months of age to maximize his experiences 
before that fear period set in.  I can't find the original post (suspect 
it's on my other computer), but that list was so helpful to me.  I've 
written below the things that I've made sure that Tucker has encountered in 
a positive manner in his young age (he's 8mos now) - it's by no means 
comprehensive, in fact I know I've missed some things like wheelchairs, 
sheep, goats, chickens etc (other barnyard animals), canoe rides etc, but I 
thought I'd share it for new puppy owners, and also to seek input on what 
I've missed.  I'm lucky enough (IMO) to live in a small town so most of 
these things occur within a ten or fifteen minute walk, if not right 
outside our front or back door.

What would you add to this list?

Outdoor Transportation:
Plane ride home
Lots of car rides - short and long (up to four or five hours)
Boat rides
Bicycles
Dirt bikes
Motorcycles
Scooters
Rollerblades
Watch the train go by - hear whistles, rattles etc
Air Brakes on big trucks (18 wheelers)
Police, fire, ambulance sirens

The Big Outdoors:
Coyotes howling
Dogs barking
birds chirping, whistling and cooing
Squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, mice
Water - shallow and deeper, puddles, lakes, rivers, streams, wading pool
Grass - short like the lawn
Grasses - high in the field (waist high now - they grew along with him )
Sandy beaches
Rock faces
Woods/Forest
Mud, glorious mud
Climbing up on and over rocks, logs, picnic tables etc in the parks
rabbit holes and groundhog holes
Thunder storms and howling winds (I love these and I think the dogs pick up 
on that)
Pouring rain
Deep snow, shallow snow
Paved and unpaved roads

Around the House:
Vacuum
Hair Dryer
Blender
Oven Timer
TV, Radio, Alarm Clocks
Phone ringing
Smoke Alarm
Doors slamming
Floors - carpet, tile, hardwood, linoleum
Slippery PT deck, small stairs and large stairs
Broom (his favourite)

People:
Hats, glasses etc
Small children, larger children, teenagers
Seniors
Walkers
Crutches
Watching tennis, children's and adult's softball and soccer games at the 
park (through spring and summer we made this a part of at least two walks a 
week to sit and watch the games for ten or twenty minutes so that he'd hear 
clapping, cheering, cursing, hollering etc and watch people of all sizes 
running around madly after the ball   It was also a great way for him to 
meet kids of all ages since we don't have any)

Other Animals:
Horses
Cows
Cats
Bunnies (domestic)
Birds (domestic)

Work/Office/Other Places/General:
Fax machine
Delivery guys (uniforms)
Heavy machinery - lift trucks, order pickers etc (hang out in a Home Depot 
parking lot on a  sunny afternoon and you get lots of socialization 
opportunities)
Shopping carts
Overnight stays in different places i.e. cottage, in-laws etc with us
Scales at the vets (this has been a bugaboo - don't really know why) - we 
go the vet every month for a weigh in and treats - he loves everyone there
Parades - been in two with him (small town, remember, a parade is about 
four blocks!)
Carnivals - watched set up and hung around outside for an hour listening to 
midway sounds, rides, screams etc
Puppy school - other dogs, different surfaces, mini agility equipment
Brushing
Tooth brushing
Baths
Nail clipping
Picking out burrs