RE: Puppy games and socialization
H Arie, I would discontinue playing the chase game:-) Right now he is little and very soon he will be about 100lbs and in between there is a "hooligan" stage and you might just find yourself with some bruises! Also it encourages him to chase humans, not a good idea if he were loose in the park and kiddies were running nearby. A better alternative is for you and your wife to stand a short distance apart and call him to you and give a treat when he sits nicely in front or beside you. Just do this a few times as Berners bore easily with repetitive games. You can buy a dispensing treat ball and serve lunch in that and let him bat it about and use his nose to find the treats. There are constructive games to play with puppy and you should think through your activities and ask yourself if he becomes overly excited or aggressive when you play with him whether the resultant behaviour is going to be so appealing when he is full grown. Find a Puppy Kindergarten group with motivational training and continue with Basic Obedience. Have fun but close your eyes and think 100lbs of Big Bear:-)) Rose T.
Puppy games and socialization
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RE: dog-dog socialization
Is your pup an only dog? It would help if he could spend some time with an older dog very savvy in dog-dog relations, who can help teach pup how to play. From what I've seen, puppies really learn how to play from older dogs, not from equally clueless puppies . My Berner Bria was taught how to play by a wonderful older Tervuren bitch. And I'm serious, I watched this in two sessions and the Terv was very focused in her instructions -- how to approach and back off, how to invite play and follow-through, how to tell other dogs to back off, how to "dodge", etc. Bria in turn taught my Border Terrier how to play and he, in turn, taught the most recent addition - a terrified 2-year-old Yorkie who had NEVER played with another dog -- how to play. Said little Yorkie is now INCREDIBLE with all dogs, all ages, all sizes. It takes an older dog who is willing to "pretend" that the puppy is winning a battle or controlling the play, who will pretend that the puppy is stronger in tug, etc. If you know someone with a savvy older dog -- of any breed -- I'd arrange to spend some time with that dog. Emphasis on "savvy" here because you want your pup learning GOOD play habits, not bad ones . PS, if you live anywhere near Grinnell, Iowa, come on over and bring pup -- we've got several trusted older dogs here who are most excellent at this job! Anita Schrodt In Grinnell, IA with 3 Berners, a Border Terrier and a Yorkie NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
dog-dog socialization
Hi all :) My 4 month old boy is such a sweet, smart, funny character but for some reason at puppy school he WILL NOT play with the other puppies. He sniffs for a minute (on leash) then cowers away from them. He hides in the corner during off leash time and if any of the others come to him he runs away. Our trainer says it may take a couple of weeks but this is our third week and she's getting concerned. She wants us to go to another class (in addition to our regular one) in order to get him out of his shell somehow. Does anyone have any ideas? Is this really bad? Will he grow out of it? I don't want to have a "fear biter" on my hands in a year. Help... _ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
Re: Socialization of dogs
One of the reasons for the different breeds in my house is I love the personalities. The way you describe your first Berner, Jenn, reminds me of my Leo, Cowboy. Cowboy is a "thinker", a very smart boy, CGC in nothing flat, clicker trained easily. Bored easily. He loves people, but when first approached, with tail wagging, he ducks when a stranger reaches out to pat his head. Doesn't move his feet, doesn't stop wagging his tail, but like your pup he's almost saying-geez, wait a minute, I don't even know you. This is one of the few times he doesn't bark or talk in any way. He seems to want a chance to sniff first. Now, once he knows you, don't you even think of ignoring him or he will grumble, woo hoo, bark, whatever it takes. He's a hoot! I will never forget being out on the back porch one morning early drinking my coffee when I hear a faint cry of my visiting sister for "Help!" coming from the house. I walk in to see my sister on the stair landing, and 5 big, grinning ear to ear dogs waiting for her to come down the rest of the way! Cowboy in particular vocalizing his delight to my sister's horror. No way was she coming down stairs without me there. We laughed and laughed and I forever tease her about my big, bad dogs trapping her. Right now I am totally in love with my Pyr, Bean. He is my oldest and for some reason is getting a little more demonstrative and playful. He'll come up and touch me with his nose, just a little shove. He has a look in his eyes and a grin, wanting me to get up and "chase". This means chase about 6 feet at the most before I grab him in a bear hug, tell him how much I love him, and give him a great back, butt scratching. Ah, it's heaven to this guy. Now while all this is going on we are surrounded by the black boys (the Berners-we are racially blended, obviously!), bouncing, bouncing , bouncing "me, me, me next" attitude! Freckles is generally barking non stop while we all ignore him (Damn it you guys, I am small but have a mighty bark! Pay Attention) Zeke will most likely jump on the couch and flop back wards with big, looking like beer belly, pointing to the ceiling. One of these days I expect him to reach down and scratch his privates and belch! Weaver will be looking soft, reaching out with one paw quietly, asking " Can I have just a little? I don't like all this noise but I do love you and would like a cuddle." okay, it's a zoo, but I love it! jane heggen & the boys of iowa (who are all very different with one mom)
Re: socialization
I kind of knew I wasn't going to get a definitive answer. But I sure thought if there was one, I'd get it here. I imagine there are always too many variables to come to any conclusive answers. It's a lovely debate, though. I enjoy reading differing experiences. I can't imagine I'd ever be a good breeder. I'm too much of a control freak. I'd have every minute of the first year of the pup's life mapped out with what to do when, what to expect when, what school to go to, what to feed, when to alter, what shots to give, and when oiy vey!! Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> | So - you have no definite answer I think The answer is yes
Re: socialization
On Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:20:36 -0500 "Jennifer Popp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > So that's what begged the question, was I a better owner/trainer for > the > third dog (in this particular pack) or was it luck of the [genetic] After reading the replies you got I would say you have been given some very good information. The debate over nature vs nurture is one that has raged for years in regard to both dogs and people. I do not think they are seperate issues but closely entertwined. A puppy with a genetically sound temperament does not shy from loud noises, does not back away from large people or dogs, does not run away from new situations. He does not have a melt down during the first second or however many fear periods exist. He can endure isolation, horrible treatment and situations and bounce back with proper training love and care (witnessed by the shelter and rescue dogs that end up loving devoted pets). This is genetics That you are a better owner/trainer is no doubt. You have learned. Training has become more instinctual for you and you aren't having to think about every command and your timing with praise is probably faster and more consistent. This can help take any puppy with a slight to moderate temperament flaw and mold it to a point that is less apparent and livable for you and the dog. So - you have no definite answer I think The answer is yes Susan Ablon Gweebarra BMD Balch Springs, Tx http://www.pageweb.com/gwebara
Re: Socialization of Dogs
Well I do feel I found a great puppy school when we brought the third dog home. He has a web site http://www.beachescanineacademy.com that does go into the different periods of dogs. The first two dogs went to the same training school (pretty old school, now that I know better -- not choke collar old, by the jerk and praise methodology). But they are a GSD and BMD, so I can't compare them as they are totally different in just their different breeds. This puppy school even had an exercise called "pass the puppy" and we'd all sit in a circle and pass the puppies around to the next person and give them loving. An absolutely fantastic exercise, IMO. And I do feel that a good puppy school is critical. But it doesn't appear to be stressed as so critical. And a good school can do so much for the dog whereas a bad school can set the wheels in motion for continuing to handle situations poorly. Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "JEvans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> | There is a second fear period that dogs experience anywhere from between | about 4 to 10 months, lasting a few weeks, wherein the dogs are skittish even in | situations they had previously been fine in. | Also, IMVHO: a puppy class tailored to pups between ages about 8 weeks to | 4 months is the very best thing you can do for a dog! The good puppy class will be | structured for some puppy play time, lots and lots of socialization and desensitization to | people, noises, objects, surfaces and will use food to desensitize the pups | to scary things. (people in hats, with beards, children, vet procedures | (mock), other pups, puppy agility obstacles, etc!!) There would also be | good instruction on operant conditioning and teach the owners how to use | the techniques as well as work on bite inhibition and some basic obedience like sit, down | come. .
Re: socialization
Well this is it, Lisa. I wish I had known more about the fear periods when I had my first dog, let alone any dog that followed :-). I am 100% sure I didn't handle those fear periods well in all but the last berner. Each dog I've been better with but I did more reading between dogs (so to speak) and was much better prepared this last round. So that's what begged the question, was I a better owner/trainer for the third dog (in this particular pack) or was it luck of the [genetic] draw and I (or the training school) had little influence. If the dogs were even remotely similar, I might not be so curious. It's that they are polar opposite that I'm wondering how much breeding or training has to do with it. Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Lisa Baldwin | with some breeds there does seem to be a genetic problem that doesn't pop up | until the second fear imprint period. with dogs from these lines (we have | particularly noticed it in shelties & gsds) they hit that second fear | imprint period like a wall & recover slowly, if at all.
Re: Socialization of dogs
Excellent points Rose. The first berner does not show any fear when he ducks from an unwelcome pat. His tail is still up (he walks with quite the raised 'banner'). It appears as though he's saying "hey, I haven't given you the OK to touch me, I'm still checking you out." Not a bad thing by any means. And the one bark he belts out is quite a deep, throaty bark. Not continual, not annoying, just one "HEY" (in dog language sound like a bark :-)). And like I said he's VERY cuddly with those he knows. The second berner is still young (18 months), and like I said, the 'baby' of the family. He's got two older ones who seem to do a fine job of being reserved. He may become more aloof, or he may stay his same goofy self. Either is fine. As with everything in dog-dome, I find behaviour of dogs so fascinating. And because the variables had changed so drastically between both dogs, I was wondering what they were born with and what they get from training class, and the rest of life experiences. Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "Rose Tierney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You say your first dog is initially reserved with strangers but mushes up with them once he knows them. This type of character is perfectly normal and what one should expect with a breed that has a watchdog heritage. ...If your second dog is the goon that wiggles and smooches up from the get go he is actually a more submissive dog, which is sounding like it suits you perfectly.
Re: Socialization of Dogs
>So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait? I>s it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that >much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any l>ight on this?? Certainly a genetically timid dog could show the behaviors you mention, and even if well socialized can still show fear. If the dog lacks socialization in early critical periods or experiences trauma (that can be different for each dog!) in a fear period, then the dog can later have problems specific to that trauma or even generalized, *global* fear. There is a second fear period that dogs experience anywhere from between about 4 to 10 months, lasting a few weeks, wherein the dogs are skittish even in situations they had previously been fine in. Trauma in that period can also have negative effects on the dog. It's important during both the early period and later to keep things upbeat and safe for the dog. Giving lots of praise for desired behaviors with food rewards, not forcing a dog to go up to someone or accept petting, and also _not_ coddling the fearful/timid responses is helpful. To most dogs, food = good, so they make the association that: person approaching means I get lots of really yummie food while I sit calmly, paying attention to my owner, cool! If they are too afraid to take food or about to harm themselves or others or threaten to do so, then get them out of the situation and find someone/some way to work with you and the pup to make life as good as it can be! (I'm talking about *you* in general, not Jennifer) On the other hand, some more assertive, friendly dogs might miss all opportunity for socialization and still turn out to be the best therapy dog ever. It really can be due to genetics or experience. Also, IMVHO: a puppy class tailored to pups between ages about 8 weeks to 4 months is the very best thing you can do for a dog! The good puppy class will be structured for some puppy play time, lots and lots of socialization and desensitization to people, noises, objects, surfaces and will use food to desensitize the pups to scary things. (people in hats, with beards, children, vet procedures (mock), other pups, puppy agility obstacles, etc!!) There would also be good instruction on operant conditioning and teach the owners how to use the techniques as well as work on bite inhibition and some basic obedience like sit, down come. There would not be any punishment nor choke or prong collars used. The pups will learn to offer behaviors and owners learn that their job is to pick which ones to reward. A pup's development can also be affected/enhanced by earlier experience provided not only by the litter and mother, but by the breeder. Things like handling, exposure to temperature changes (brief), while the pups are quite young have been shown to enhance later development! That's way more than I intended to write, but I just think that good puppy classes do so much good for pups and owners that I got a little carried away Jill with Indie and Gabby
re: socialization
socialization needs to be continued for the first full year in my opinion. there is a second fear imprint period that occurs for most dogs somewhere in the 6 mos to 1yr area. this is a time to return almost to puppy style socialization especially for any individual dog who has had difficulties with earlier socialization & for any breed of dog that tends to require more socialization - which would include bernese. with some breeds there does seem to be a genetic problem that doesn't pop up until the second fear imprint period. with dogs from these lines (we have particularly noticed it in shelties & gsds) they hit that second fear imprint period like a wall & recover slowly, if at all. just the experience of myself & several of my friends who are trainers. lisa baldwin (dickens, bark & zel) seattle, wa [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: Socialization of dogs
Hi Jenn, I don't know your dogs so can't gauge their full temperament and character but the standard does allow for a degree of reservation. You say your first dog is initially reserved with strangers but mushes up with them once he knows them. This type of character is perfectly normal and what one should expect with a breed that has a watchdog heritage. He is not supposed to throw down the welcome mat for all but when he sees that person is acceptable to you allows himself to be handled, that is a good watchdog. Providing the dog is not rolling his eyes, ducking his head to one side and jamming his tail up his crotch but standing with presence (not hackled or growling) it wouldn't bother me if he chose to act the protector when approached by a stranger but I would expect him to relax quickly which your post implies your first dog does. If your second dog is the goon that wiggles and smooches up from the get go he is actually a more submissive dog, which is sounding like it suits you perfectly. He may actually read your body language quicker and realise all is well, does he still overgreet people who you are not comfortable with?? This might make an easy affable pet for you but not likely to protect you from the mad axman! Rose Tierney -Original Message- From: Jennifer Popp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: December 19, 2002 7:22 PM To: Bernese Mountain Dog Mailing List Subject: Socialization of dogs Ok, I've got a general question for the wealth of berner knowledge on this list. And I'm sure this question will be one of those that had widely opposing views, so be kind to Pat and don't get nasty. Here goes I remember when I got my first berner (5 years ago) some admirers of the breed I'd meet along the way would comment on the temperament they saw creeping into, what used to be, a very friendly breed. That temperament being shier, more aloof, less approachable, etc. As I always do, I brought my new berner to obedience school (at 3 months) and socialized him with other animals, adults and children (as well as traffic, trucks, etc.). I would have thought I had done a good job of exposing him to different things as he grew up. But then at around 9 months, he started showing signs of the very behaviour I described above. He will approach anyone he doesn't know with reserve and don't dare pet him until he says it's OK. Reach out to pat his head and he will jump back and possibly bark. Once he knows a person, he's more loveable than any berner on the planet. He actually squeaks if he's happy to see someone he knows. Now my second berner is the polar opposite. He does the full body wiggle as he approaches ANYONE. But he went to three levels of what I'd call a better obedience school. I even went as far as bring him at 9 weeks of age because I believed the risk of him contracting some puppy disease was less of a worry than him being under socialized. (Now that's not the point of the story, so don't anyone start ranting about this aspect, as I would do it again.) So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait? Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any light on this?? Some notes: I'm not saying either way is right, I'm just wondering what would determine such a huge variance in social behaviour. Second note: each berner is from a different breeder with (probably) no ancestral links in their pedigree. Third note, both are altered males, one altered at 1 year, one at 5.5 months. First berner was not first dog, we have a GSD that is three years older than the first berner -- each dog is approximately three years difference in age. I'd have to say, I'm not a dog idiot, I have read many books on training and dog behaviours and my training is based on positive rather than negative. Is it just that the owner gets that much better with each dog they add to the family?? Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Socialization of dogs
- Original Message - From: "Jennifer Popp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait? > Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that > much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any > light on this?? My firm belief is that you have a basic mammal, of whatever type, and then from there that mammal interacts with the environment and develops into whatever it is going to be. I've raised many dogs, horses, cats, etc., and observed countless more. I am a big fan of 50-50 nature/nurture, with the scales sometimes tipping to nature if there is a serious imbalance or health issue. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002
Socialization of dogs
Ok, I've got a general question for the wealth of berner knowledge on this list. And I'm sure this question will be one of those that had widely opposing views, so be kind to Pat and don't get nasty. Here goes I remember when I got my first berner (5 years ago) some admirers of the breed I'd meet along the way would comment on the temperament they saw creeping into, what used to be, a very friendly breed. That temperament being shier, more aloof, less approachable, etc. As I always do, I brought my new berner to obedience school (at 3 months) and socialized him with other animals, adults and children (as well as traffic, trucks, etc.). I would have thought I had done a good job of exposing him to different things as he grew up. But then at around 9 months, he started showing signs of the very behaviour I described above. He will approach anyone he doesn't know with reserve and don't dare pet him until he says it's OK. Reach out to pat his head and he will jump back and possibly bark. Once he knows a person, he's more loveable than any berner on the planet. He actually squeaks if he's happy to see someone he knows. Now my second berner is the polar opposite. He does the full body wiggle as he approaches ANYONE. But he went to three levels of what I'd call a better obedience school. I even went as far as bring him at 9 weeks of age because I believed the risk of him contracting some puppy disease was less of a worry than him being under socialized. (Now that's not the point of the story, so don't anyone start ranting about this aspect, as I would do it again.) So my questions are: Is it just genetics that determine this type of trait? Is it the socialization at a very young age? Does the puppy school make that much of a difference in the social behaviour of dogs? Can anyone shed any light on this?? Some notes: I'm not saying either way is right, I'm just wondering what would determine such a huge variance in social behaviour. Second note: each berner is from a different breeder with (probably) no ancestral links in their pedigree. Third note, both are altered males, one altered at 1 year, one at 5.5 months. First berner was not first dog, we have a GSD that is three years older than the first berner -- each dog is approximately three years difference in age. I'd have to say, I'm not a dog idiot, I have read many books on training and dog behaviours and my training is based on positive rather than negative. Is it just that the owner gets that much better with each dog they add to the family?? Jenn Popp Healthy Paws Bones and Raw Food Diet http://www.healthy-paws.ca Toronto, Ontario (Canada) 416-264-1313 / email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
socialization
One of the many things that I do in ongoing socialization of pup/dog is to take them to my local (Ford) dealer just for a visit. When I was negotiating the lease of my present van, Moses sat in the (Ford) office with me. This way, they can hear different noises (at a distance, of course and on leash, of course) and meet a bunch of fellows who are eager to play with them! Lisa Allen _ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
Re: Socialization
How about big family gatherings, i.e. Thanksgiving and Christmas, or Halloween night with the door bell ringing constantly and children running in your yard? Sarah Jarrett and my new Berner pup, Joy!
Re: Socialization
I have always taken my puppies out of their own environment to experience new things and sounds. We live on a main road, so one thing I do is to take them with us when we go north and go to the gravel pits to sight in the hunting rifles (no flames please). I keep them a safe distance away, out of harms way, and let my husband go to work at sighting in his guns. The dogs at first are startled but then relax and by the time the second day has rolled around of this they are comfortable with the sound. The main reason for this is we have a lot of trucks that go by and at least once a day we have blow outs that occur, which obviously sound like a gun going off. I had one dog I did not do this with and he freaked every time this would happen, so I make it common practice now to get them used to this noise. I take them everywhere with me to get them accustomed to strange people and surroundings, noises they will eventually hear in life and to make sure they are well adjusted all the way around. I take them shopping when I go to get dog shampoos, treats, toys and just for plain fun. I used to walk into our local drug store with Dillon (they did allow me this courtesy) and pick up one of his diarrhea meds. There are many places my dogs have been allowed into without problem and the socialization has been great for them. I start this a day or two after they come home, usually at 8 weeks of age or so. Also going to an obedience class with other dogs helps as well. It does help to get them out into the world to experience all of these things, what you will find is that after putting so much effort into socializing your puppy, you will generally have a well adjusted dog. Just things I have experienced with my dogs. By the way Hope loves to go hunting with dad and doesn't mind the sound of the rifles at all. Matter of fact when she hears it, she is at the door waiting to go with dad into the woods. Kelly Weir and Hope (who said berner's couldn't hunt!) http://home.twmi.rr.com/skylinebmd/index.html/hopeindex.htm
More on Socialization
I've also pulled my car over to get Mickey out and have him meet retarded people in wheelchairs, little kids and a guy on crutches! Catherine Young Madison WI Shadow & Mickey
RE Socialization
Great list of socialization needs! I can't think of anything to add. But I also can't stress enough the importance of socialization. Our rescue dog, Shadow, seems to have never been socialized to anything but other dogs. When we got him he was incredible sound sensitive. Movements and people really scared him and he seemed baffled by toys and had a very hard time with doorways. When we got Mickey, temperament was of the utmost importance to us since we wanted to balance out our little pack. We took Mickey everywhere - and exposed him to as much as possible. As a result, he is pretty comfortable with lost of stimuli and situations. And one thing i would also recommend is taking your puppy to "visit" the vet frequently. We took Mickey just to say Hi and to get weighed. He loves his vet and thinks that goint to the vet is great. The one area where I fell down was in nail clipping and hygiene. One of the first times I clipped Mick's nails, I cut too deep and he bled like a stuck pig. (okay, maybe I'm a little emotional about this) I freaked out. I called the emergency vet and they told me what to do. Must've thought I was a total idiot. But because I freaked out so badly, Mickey has been goosey about anil trims ever since. Lesson -- start the nail thing slowly and if there is blood, the puppy isn't going to die, so don't freak out. Next puppy, I'll do better. Each new critter is a learning experience! Catherin Young Madison WI Shadow & Mickey
Re: Socialization
Kelly- > so one thing I do is to take them with us when we go north and go to the gravel pits to sight in the >hunting rifles (no flames please). I keep them a safe distance away, out of harms way, and let my husband go >to work at sighting in his guns. This is not a bad idea. One of the requirements for passing a Temperament Test (TT) is the dogs appropriate reaction to gunfire. They can react, but not be fearful. You don't need your flame retardent suit for this one. Janice Parky North Truro, MA
socialization
i would add touching to your list. when we do a puppy class, we start with the basic all over exam - eyes, mouth, ears, body, legs, feet. then we add hugging restraint. this is how your dogs will be restrained at the vets, they might as well get used to it. i always tell people that the dog doesn't have to like this, he only has to tolerate it. we then move on to hugs from the front, swooping hugs from the front, hugs from the rear, gentle tugs on tail, feet, & ears. i usually add one thing a week, depending on the puppies. i also tell them to hire their friends to come & help train their puppies. have a pizza party. your puppy can greet (not leap on) each person as they come in the door. your puppy can be passed from person to person for petting & gentle hugging. your puppy can play recall games all around the circle. these are all helpful in teaching your puppy to accept people handling him. most dogs go through a period in adolescence (6-12 months usually, depending on breed & individual) they will often regress in socialization & training during this period. while not encouraging the shy behaviors, you need to support your puppy, continue with your socialization & training, & continue to build his confidence in you & people in general. it can be very discouraging, since he was so great just a few months ago, but many dogs will eventually recover. how fond they are of strangers under various circumstances will depend on the dog's basic temperament & your modifications (which only go so far) of that temperament based on socialization & training. lisa baldwin (dickens, bark & zel) seattle, wa [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: Socialization
I would be interested in this, too, as we are about to get our 2nd pup next week! We are sooo excited. I would especially be interested in learning more about this "fear" period...our Schlappi got it from about 6 months...suddenly and without reason...and began coming out of it around 1 year old. It was really scary, as he went from being a super gregarious puppy to having a fear of some people - especially men with hats! Now he is much better and I hope that he has "grown" out of it. Any info on helping to avoid these months of unexpected fear in our dogs would be great! Thanks! Mary Dawn -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Lucy & Yogi Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 9:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Socialization Back around the time that I first brought Tucker home, someone posted to the list an excellent "socialization checklist" of things to be sure and expose your puppy to before 6-7 months of age to maximize his experiences before that fear period set in. I can't find the original post (suspect it's on my other computer), but that list was so helpful to me. I've written below the things that I've made sure that Tucker has encountered in a positive manner in his young age (he's 8mos now) - it's by no means comprehensive, in fact I know I've missed some things like wheelchairs, sheep, goats, chickens etc (other barnyard animals), canoe rides etc, but I thought I'd share it for new puppy owners, and also to seek input on what I've missed. I'm lucky enough (IMO) to live in a small town so most of these things occur within a ten or fifteen minute walk, if not right outside our front or back door. What would you add to this list? Outdoor Transportation: Plane ride home Lots of car rides - short and long (up to four or five hours) Boat rides Bicycles Dirt bikes Motorcycles Scooters Rollerblades Watch the train go by - hear whistles, rattles etc Air Brakes on big trucks (18 wheelers) Police, fire, ambulance sirens The Big Outdoors: Coyotes howling Dogs barking birds chirping, whistling and cooing Squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, mice Water - shallow and deeper, puddles, lakes, rivers, streams, wading pool Grass - short like the lawn Grasses - high in the field (waist high now - they grew along with him ) Sandy beaches Rock faces Woods/Forest Mud, glorious mud Climbing up on and over rocks, logs, picnic tables etc in the parks rabbit holes and groundhog holes Thunder storms and howling winds (I love these and I think the dogs pick up on that) Pouring rain Deep snow, shallow snow Paved and unpaved roads Around the House: Vacuum Hair Dryer Blender Oven Timer TV, Radio, Alarm Clocks Phone ringing Smoke Alarm Doors slamming Floors - carpet, tile, hardwood, linoleum Slippery PT deck, small stairs and large stairs Broom (his favourite) People: Hats, glasses etc Small children, larger children, teenagers Seniors Walkers Crutches Watching tennis, children's and adult's softball and soccer games at the park (through spring and summer we made this a part of at least two walks a week to sit and watch the games for ten or twenty minutes so that he'd hear clapping, cheering, cursing, hollering etc and watch people of all sizes running around madly after the ball It was also a great way for him to meet kids of all ages since we don't have any) Other Animals: Horses Cows Cats Bunnies (domestic) Birds (domestic) Work/Office/Other Places/General: Fax machine Delivery guys (uniforms) Heavy machinery - lift trucks, order pickers etc (hang out in a Home Depot parking lot on a sunny afternoon and you get lots of socialization opportunities) Shopping carts Overnight stays in different places i.e. cottage, in-laws etc with us Scales at the vets (this has been a bugaboo - don't really know why) - we go the vet every month for a weigh in and treats - he loves everyone there Parades - been in two with him (small town, remember, a parade is about four blocks!) Carnivals - watched set up and hung around outside for an hour listening to midway sounds, rides, screams etc Puppy school - other dogs, different surfaces, mini agility equipment Brushing Tooth brushing Baths Nail clipping Picking out burrs
Socialization
Back around the time that I first brought Tucker home, someone posted to the list an excellent "socialization checklist" of things to be sure and expose your puppy to before 6-7 months of age to maximize his experiences before that fear period set in. I can't find the original post (suspect it's on my other computer), but that list was so helpful to me. I've written below the things that I've made sure that Tucker has encountered in a positive manner in his young age (he's 8mos now) - it's by no means comprehensive, in fact I know I've missed some things like wheelchairs, sheep, goats, chickens etc (other barnyard animals), canoe rides etc, but I thought I'd share it for new puppy owners, and also to seek input on what I've missed. I'm lucky enough (IMO) to live in a small town so most of these things occur within a ten or fifteen minute walk, if not right outside our front or back door. What would you add to this list? Outdoor Transportation: Plane ride home Lots of car rides - short and long (up to four or five hours) Boat rides Bicycles Dirt bikes Motorcycles Scooters Rollerblades Watch the train go by - hear whistles, rattles etc Air Brakes on big trucks (18 wheelers) Police, fire, ambulance sirens The Big Outdoors: Coyotes howling Dogs barking birds chirping, whistling and cooing Squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, mice Water - shallow and deeper, puddles, lakes, rivers, streams, wading pool Grass - short like the lawn Grasses - high in the field (waist high now - they grew along with him ) Sandy beaches Rock faces Woods/Forest Mud, glorious mud Climbing up on and over rocks, logs, picnic tables etc in the parks rabbit holes and groundhog holes Thunder storms and howling winds (I love these and I think the dogs pick up on that) Pouring rain Deep snow, shallow snow Paved and unpaved roads Around the House: Vacuum Hair Dryer Blender Oven Timer TV, Radio, Alarm Clocks Phone ringing Smoke Alarm Doors slamming Floors - carpet, tile, hardwood, linoleum Slippery PT deck, small stairs and large stairs Broom (his favourite) People: Hats, glasses etc Small children, larger children, teenagers Seniors Walkers Crutches Watching tennis, children's and adult's softball and soccer games at the park (through spring and summer we made this a part of at least two walks a week to sit and watch the games for ten or twenty minutes so that he'd hear clapping, cheering, cursing, hollering etc and watch people of all sizes running around madly after the ball It was also a great way for him to meet kids of all ages since we don't have any) Other Animals: Horses Cows Cats Bunnies (domestic) Birds (domestic) Work/Office/Other Places/General: Fax machine Delivery guys (uniforms) Heavy machinery - lift trucks, order pickers etc (hang out in a Home Depot parking lot on a sunny afternoon and you get lots of socialization opportunities) Shopping carts Overnight stays in different places i.e. cottage, in-laws etc with us Scales at the vets (this has been a bugaboo - don't really know why) - we go the vet every month for a weigh in and treats - he loves everyone there Parades - been in two with him (small town, remember, a parade is about four blocks!) Carnivals - watched set up and hung around outside for an hour listening to midway sounds, rides, screams etc Puppy school - other dogs, different surfaces, mini agility equipment Brushing Tooth brushing Baths Nail clipping Picking out burrs