RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

2007-02-05 Thread Larry Stansifer
The early generation third party scan tools are generally not accessible
to either JFW or Window-eyes.
Even with using either the mouse pointer or the Jaws cursor both miss a
lot of data on the screen, however the newer units most notably OBD-4
work fairly well. I was able to read most of the codes, fault logs, data
logs and system failures. in a 05 5.7 Hemi Durango. I created a couple
of failure codes by unplugging the MAP sensor and the thermostat
override controller and Jaws told me immediately the appropriate failure
codes.

HATH

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:05 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?


Are any of you guys/gals using a OBD II (on board diagnostic 2) scan
tool to read codes on your vehicles?  If so, which one are you using?  I
would think that the hand-held ones are not accessable to a totally
blind person, but how about the PC interface types?  Do they work with
JAWS or Windoweyes?

Thanks :)



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Which way to lay?

2007-02-05 Thread Mickey Fixsen
Maybe you should consider gluing and nailing a good plywood underlayment before 
you install the hardwood.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Which way to lay?


  OK,

  I know that all guidelines for laying wood floors say to run the boards 
  perpendicular to the joists. That makes some sense sure.

  Having said that, I am laying this floor over an existing plank floor. 
  The planks obviously run perpendicular to the joists. If I run my new 
  floor perpendicular to the joists, IE parallel to the existing planks, it 
  seems like there might be trouble in paradise. These planks aren't in the 
  best condition and some are cupped a bit. I can imagine I would get a 
  wavy effect if I run my boards parallel to the planks.

  Would running my boards perpendicular to the planks, IE parallel to the 
  joists just be a horror of horrors with handyman demons cursing me and 
  taking my hammer and saws away from me?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   


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[BlindHandyMan] dremels?

2007-02-05 Thread John Schwery
What are dremels used for?  Are they worth getting?


John


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] dremels?

2007-02-05 Thread carlhickson
thay are a multy rotary tool manly used for craft wrk but thay have meny uses 
like acutting that screw head off that has snaped or removeing rust with a 
wirer brush wheal and meny other uses like that meny people don't like them but 
i use myne for all those jobs whair you need a small tool wwith plenty of power 
thay have a top speed of 37000 rrpm if you wont to kno mor get in touch and 
sorry about the spelling i'm in a rrush just typeing tthis mesage on the way 
out the dorr 

  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] dremels?


  What are dremels used for? Are they worth getting?

  John

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] tracing a light switch

2007-02-05 Thread R.S. CHILDREY
Dale 
This may be a strange question do you live in Minnesota 
Thanks 
Shannon Childrey 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Alton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:10 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tracing a light switch


  Hey gang,

  I moved into my house about a year ago and found a couple of light switches 
that I have no idea as to where they go. I do know that one of them heads up 
into the attic and towards the front of the house. Is there a contraption that 
I am about able to put on the light switch and have it make a sound to the 
coordinating end? I have tested several outlets to no avail. I thought maybe it 
was a three way switch that currently wasn't being used. Every place I have 
looked has just turned up dead ends. Any thoughts?

  Dale

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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[BlindHandyMan] Hardwood flooring site

2007-02-05 Thread rj
I was always taught to lay the hardwood flooring across the sub floor.  Here
is a site full of info on the subject.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/fl

. Wood Flooring
Web Links
list end
Skill Level: 3-4 (Moderate to Advanced)
Time Taken: 2 People, All Day
table end

By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor

You Get What You Pay For...

That saying is applicable to most products used in residential construction
and remodeling, and it's doubly true about flooring. Installing, sanding and
finishing hardwood flooring takes a lot of work, but when it's done, all
that effort is easy to forget.

A comparable product is pre-finished hardwood strip flooring. Essentially
pre-finished hardwood flooring is the same as the material used in this
project,
but there are small bevels milled around the perimeter of each board. These
bevels prevent you from noticing the small inaccuracies in machining that
cause
some boards to lay slightly higher than others. The procedure for installing
a pre-finished hardwood floor would be about the same as the methods used
in this article.

Before: The room with just the sub-floor.

After we picked up the white oak flooring, we stored the bundles of wood in
a utility trailer in the garage.

We chose white oak instead of red oak. Red oak is more common, is slightly
cheaper, but is softer and has a more open grain pattern. White oak has a
lighter
appearance when finished with a natural coating and no stain.

Storage:

Hardwood flooring manufacturers advise that the wood be allowed to acclimate
in the same environment as the room it will be used in. During damp weather,
the wood should be kept indoors for at least three days. Since our flooring
had been milled at least a year earlier, and had been kept in a dry storage
 Etc.
RJ



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[BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Ray,

I need your snooping expertise.  I am going to do some research but you 
have a nack for searching.

How do you go about determining how much tubing you would put under a 
floor to provide heat for a room?  I mean, I could probably stick for or 
five lengths of Copper tubing in each joist bay, but then again, 900 feet 
of Copper tubing might be a bit much to heat a room.

The truly sad thing is that I am supposed to be able to calculate this 
stuff.  Hell, I probably have in the past, but there have been a 
sufficient number of years between now and my having taken heat transfer 
and Thermo Dynamics that I just don't remember anymore.  Use it or lose 
it, that is the truth.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flushing Upwards.

2007-02-05 Thread Don
I sure would not want any part of rebuilding the pump on this thing..Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Flushing Upwards.


  Hi All
  Flushing Upward
  When you have no drain system in your basement.
  : Use a macerating toilet. A macerator looks very much like a standard 
  toilet and occupies about the same amount
  of floor space. But instead of draining the flushed water down into the 
  floor, the system transports it through a pump contained in a small box, 
  typically
  located behind the toilet and against the wall. Much like a garbage 
  disposal, the system uses a spinning macerating blade that liquefies the 
  solid waste.
  The liquid waste is then forced through the discharge pipes by the pressure 
  of the pump. The discharge pipes tie into the soil stack and voila! - you 
  have
  a fully operational flushing toilet with no need to tear up the concrete 
  slab. While the macerating toilets do cost more than a conventional toilet, 
  the
  money saved over a conventional plumbing installation easily justifies the 
  cost.

  Much like a garbage disposal, a macerating toilet uses a spinning blade to 
  liquefiy solid waste.

  Macerating toilets can be installed on any finished floor in the home, 
  wherever it is most convenient for the homeowner. These fixtures will pump 
  up to
  12 feet vertically or up to 150 feet horizontally (with minimum 1/4-inch per 
  foot gravity fall). Install a macerator in a spare bedroom, a garage, inside
  a closet, or in this case, beneath a staircase in the basement. In fact, 
  thanks to the quick work of MR Plumbing, in less than four hours we had a 
  fully
  operational flushing toilet installed where there was none before. Plus, 
  there is no need to leave accessible space, as required by an in-floor sump 
  system.
  And a properly sized macerating system can handle all the fixtures in a 
  bathroom, including the sink, shower, tub and toilet, even on a septic-tank 
  system.

  How it Works

  The unit installed in this case was the Saniplus model from SFA Saniflo 
  Inc., which corners the market on macerating toilets. Saniflo is the only 
  company
  currently manufacturing the macerating units, which the company pioneered 
  nearly a half-century ago.

  The Saniplus model arrived at the house as three major components: the 
  macerator pump, the toilet bowl and the toilet tank. Just assemble the 
  toilet as
  you would most standard models and attach the macerator to the rear of the 
  bowl via a rubber connection gasket.

  The macerator also consists of three major parts: the container, which 
  houses the operating mechanism; a pressure chamber that automatically 
  activates and
  deactivates; and the induction motor that drives the cutter blade and the 
  impeller pump.

  The tank and bowl of a macerating unit fit together and operate just like 
  most standard toilets.

  The Saniplus system can simultaneously receive wastewater from several 
  sanitary fixtures, such as a shower, bathtub or hand basin, but only one 
  toilet per
  unit. As the flush is operated, or as the bath or shower discharges, the 
  water and waste matter enter the unit and the water level begins to rise, 
  triggering
  the micro-switch in the pressure chamber. This in turn activates the motor 
  and pump. The shredder blade rotates at 3,600 RPM, shredding the solid waste
  and passing on to the impeller pump. The impeller pump discharges the waste 
  through a 3/4-inch outlet pipe to a sewer or soil stack.

  While this may sound a bit complicated, the pump itself comes as a fully 
  assembled and enclosed unit, so there's no need to worry about putting that 
  together.

  Assembling a Macerating Toilet

  Michael Martin and Brent Adkins, the plumbers that installed the Saniplus 
  unit, began by assembling the bowl and tank. The unit comes complete with a 
  tank-to-bowl
  kit that includes all the necessary fasteners. Their first step was to place 
  the foam gasket on the spud of the flush valve and over the nut. Then, as
  with any conventional toilet, place the tank on top of the bowl. Insert the 
  screws and the gasket through the tank and tighten nuts to the screws on the
  underside of the tank. Do not overtighten.

  Next step is to prep the macerator. Fit the supplied adjustable discharge 
  elbow to the top of the macerator by pressing the elbow in the round opening 
  of
  the lid and turning it at the same time. The Saniplus macerating unit has a 
  PVC hose connection. Use the supplied gear clamp to fasten the hose to the
  elbow, making sure not to kink or twist it, as this will restrict the flow. 
  The other side of the hose will be connected to the discharge pipe system.
  At the lower corner of the macerator, Martin installed the supplied 
  1-1/2-inch gravity feed inlet to accept the drainage of the sink that was 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

2007-02-05 Thread NLG
Thanks Larry.  I am not sure what OBD-4 is though.  I wasn't aware that ODB-4 
was out, as a matter  of fact, I never knew that OBD III was out yet.

I have seen some of your posts here in the past though, and don't doubt you.  
Could you point me to a web site that I could learn more about the OBD-4?  I 
also would appreciate knowing the particulars on the OBD that you have used 
that you refered to in your post.  I.E. name, and price?

Thanks :)



  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 04:55
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?


  The early generation third party scan tools are generally not accessible
  to either JFW or Window-eyes.
  Even with using either the mouse pointer or the Jaws cursor both miss a
  lot of data on the screen, however the newer units most notably OBD-4
  work fairly well. I was able to read most of the codes, fault logs, data
  logs and system failures. in a 05 5.7 Hemi Durango. I created a couple
  of failure codes by unplugging the MAP sensor and the thermostat
  override controller and Jaws told me immediately the appropriate failure
  codes.

  HATH

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:05 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

  Are any of you guys/gals using a OBD II (on board diagnostic 2) scan
  tool to read codes on your vehicles? If so, which one are you using? I
  would think that the hand-held ones are not accessable to a totally
  blind person, but how about the PC interface types? Do they work with
  JAWS or Windoweyes?

  Thanks :)

  To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] dremels?

2007-02-05 Thread Max Robinson
John asked.

 What are dremels used for?  Are they worth getting?

I think they are used mainly by model makers.  I have one and I have used it 
for cutting holes in aluminum chassis.  It comes with a bit that looks kind 
of like a drill bit except it will cut on the side similar to a router bit. 
It also comes with a circle guide which makes it perfect for electronics 
chassis work.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
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- Original Message - 
From: John Schwery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:00 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] dremels?


 What are dremels used for?  Are they worth getting?


 John


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Boyce, Ray
Hi Dan
I hope this is of some help
Waves of Warmth: Radiant Heat Flooring

Have you ever noticed that no matter how warm your house is, if your
feet are cold then you feel cold all over? Even if the air in your house
hovers around
the 70-degree mark, that warm air is attempting to heat everything
surrounding it to that temperature. These surrounding elements include
your floors,
walls and ceilings, all of which are colder than the air temperature and
draw heat away from your body.
 
On the other hand, if your entire floor is heated to 72 degrees, then
this large heated surface will radiate heat outward to all areas of the
room. A heated
floor coupled with a 70-degree air temperature does a great job warming
you up from head to toe. It can bring the feel of summer to your home
during the
cold seasons, making the living space comfortable enough for shorts and
bare feet in the middle of winter.
 
 
Plus, radiant heat floor systems offer the popular combination of
comfort and energy efficiency. The Radiant Panel Association (RPA), a
trade organization
for the radiant heating industry, estimates that these systems can
reduce a home's energy usage by 25 to 30 percent when compared to
forced-air systems,
because they use direct heat rather than air currents. Silent operation
is another bonus. And because these systems are free of the drafts
associated with
traditional ducted heating systems, they also keep indoor air cleaner by
not circulating dust like forced-air systems do.
 
 
The direct of heat of radiant floor systems reduces the dust and allergy
problems associated with the drafts of a forced-air system. (photo
courtesy Uponor-Wirsbo)
 
The technology for radiant heat flooring came to the United States from
Europe, where it has been used in home construction for many years.
Radiant heat
flooring is available in two types: electric and hydronic.
 
Hydronic systems generally feature 1/2-inch under-floor flexible
polyethylene pipe that carries hot water across the floor. The flowing
hot water is what
provides the floor's pervasive warmth. These systems are often installed
in whole-house new-construction applications. Hydronic systems can be
powered
by gas, oil, electricity or solar energy, making them more flexible and
economical than electrical systems for whole-house applications. Wirsbo
and Watts
Radiant are two leading manufacturers of hydronic systems.
 
 
This diagram shows the components of a hydronic system, as well as the
variety of finished flooring materials that can be installed on top.
(photo courtesy
Uponor-Wirsbo)
 
Electric systems use mortar-embedded cable or thin under-floor mats that
are wired to work much like electric blankets. These systems are often
used to
heat small areas such as kitchens, bathrooms and entryways. Electric
systems are typically easier to install than hydronic systems. They work
well in many
single-room remodeling projects because many existing homes have
electric heat, so it's easier to maintain the same energy source.
Electric Systems are
available from Electro Plastics, Warmly Yours, NuHeat, SunTouch,
FlorHeat and EGS/EasyHeat.
 
 
Many electric systems use heated underfloor mats.
 
The Right Floor to Heat
 
Another big plus of radiant heat floors is their ability to go under
most types of flooring, including wood, carpet, stone, tile and
laminates. However,
the system will require more time to heat padded surfaces like
carpeting.
 
One of the more traditional flooring choices for use with radiant heat
is natural hardwoods, which warm quickly and are cozy for bare feet
because they
efficiently conduct heat. Solid hardwood or engineered wood floors work
fine with today's radiant heat systems, whether on subfloors or concrete
slabs.
You can add inlays to new or existing wood floors over radiant heat, and
you can also paint and stencil the floors.
 
However, the RPA warns against pioneering the use of a wood with little
information on its dimensional stability.  If you're importing tropical
or exotic
wood, pay close attention to the source and age of the wood as well as
the method used in drying it. Quick drying creates stresses that can
affect the
wood later as it expands and contracts.
 
 
What's the Right System?
 
The first big question is: Which type of system is better for your
project - hydronic or electric? In the case of constructing a new home,
a hydronic system
will likely be the best choice for use as a sole source of heat for the
whole house. If you're building a new home and want to use radiant
heating to spot
warm the home, hydronic may still be your best bet, but the final
decision may depend on the difference in cost. Compare prices for both
types and explore
the varying products on the market before plunking down any money.
 
 
In new home construction, hydronic systems can be installed as the sole
source of heat. (Image courtesy Uponor-Wirsbo)
 
Electric systems may be your best bet for remodeling. For one thing,
hydronic floor systems can elevate 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

2007-02-05 Thread Larry Stansifer
You might try alldata.com they provide on-line auto repair data for the
service industry. I don't know if it costs anything to join it or not.
One of the guys that I play hotrods with is a service manager for a
local Saturn dealer and he gets my questions answered for free. The
software package and data cable I got from Snap-on tools. It's a cd that
loads on a laptop and then you have a proprietary cable that plugs into
the data port under the dash and the other end is just a garden variety
USB connecter that goes into your laptop. I am running XP-pro as an
operating system if it makes a difference.

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 12:57 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?


Thanks Larry.  I am not sure what OBD-4 is though.  I wasn't aware that
ODB-4 was out, as a matter  of fact, I never knew that OBD III was out
yet.

I have seen some of your posts here in the past though, and don't doubt
you.  Could you point me to a web site that I could learn more about the
OBD-4?  I also would appreciate knowing the particulars on the OBD that
you have used that you refered to in your post.  I.E. name, and price?

Thanks :)



  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 04:55
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?


  The early generation third party scan tools are generally not
accessible
  to either JFW or Window-eyes.
  Even with using either the mouse pointer or the Jaws cursor both miss
a
  lot of data on the screen, however the newer units most notably OBD-4
  work fairly well. I was able to read most of the codes, fault logs,
data
  logs and system failures. in a 05 5.7 Hemi Durango. I created a couple
  of failure codes by unplugging the MAP sensor and the thermostat
  override controller and Jaws told me immediately the appropriate
failure
  codes.

  HATH

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:05 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

  Are any of you guys/gals using a OBD II (on board diagnostic 2) scan
  tool to read codes on your vehicles? If so, which one are you using? I
  would think that the hand-held ones are not accessable to a totally
  blind person, but how about the PC interface types? Do they work with
  JAWS or Windoweyes?

  Thanks :)

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
Man
  list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  -- 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Hey Ray,

Thanks fore the info.  I have been researching this for the last couple of 
hours, (both Teresa and I took the day off from work to recover after 
spending two days on our knees scraping at the damn floor).

Anyway, looks like it won't be easy to figure out much unless I do some 
really serious, in depth, research.  One thing I read did say that you 
shouldn't have more than 280 feet of 5/8 inch PEX in a single circuit. 
5/8 inch PEX seems to be a good balance between cost, heat transfer, and 
pump power.

These wet underfloor systems run at lower water temps than your regular 
hot water heating system, but then again, my hot water system doesn't run 
at a very high temp either.  You have to be careful not to run hot water, 
right up against the underside of a floor or else you may cause the 
surface of the floor to discolor in a striped pattern where the hot tubes 
are.

It seems obvious that you would have a small air gap under the floor where 
the hot tubes are.  Then a reflective surface below that.  Then insolation 
below that.

Some of my questions would be how do you make the transition from joist 
bay to joist bay?  Can you drill a 3/4 inch hole through each joist? 
Would you have to do some additional support then since you will weaken 
the joist?

How much head loss is there in 280 feet of PEX tubing verses that in a six 
foot cast iron radiator?

Lots of questions, but mostly just for fun as I don't think I can do this 
without a significant change to my current furnace.  Not sure though.

Man, I would love to just build a house from scratch with my own two 
hands, putting in all kinds of neat tech just for fun.

Oh well, dreams are fun.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

2007-02-05 Thread NLG
Thanks.  I checked out the alldata site as well as snap on tool's site, 
however, I can't find anything on OBD-4.  I also searched using google and only 
find OBD II.  I want to make sure of what is the latest version/standard  
before I purchase something.  I don't want to buy something and find out that 
it is already outdated.  

Thanks again :)

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 16:49
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?


  You might try alldata.com they provide on-line auto repair data for the
  service industry. I don't know if it costs anything to join it or not.
  One of the guys that I play hotrods with is a service manager for a
  local Saturn dealer and he gets my questions answered for free. The
  software package and data cable I got from Snap-on tools. It's a cd that
  loads on a laptop and then you have a proprietary cable that plugs into
  the data port under the dash and the other end is just a garden variety
  USB connecter that goes into your laptop. I am running XP-pro as an
  operating system if it makes a difference.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 12:57 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

  Thanks Larry. I am not sure what OBD-4 is though. I wasn't aware that
  ODB-4 was out, as a matter of fact, I never knew that OBD III was out
  yet.

  I have seen some of your posts here in the past though, and don't doubt
  you. Could you point me to a web site that I could learn more about the
  OBD-4? I also would appreciate knowing the particulars on the OBD that
  you have used that you refered to in your post. I.E. name, and price?

  Thanks :)

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 04:55
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

  The early generation third party scan tools are generally not
  accessible
  to either JFW or Window-eyes.
  Even with using either the mouse pointer or the Jaws cursor both miss
  a
  lot of data on the screen, however the newer units most notably OBD-4
  work fairly well. I was able to read most of the codes, fault logs,
  data
  logs and system failures. in a 05 5.7 Hemi Durango. I created a couple
  of failure codes by unplugging the MAP sensor and the thermostat
  override controller and Jaws told me immediately the appropriate
  failure
  codes.

  HATH

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:05 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

  Are any of you guys/gals using a OBD II (on board diagnostic 2) scan
  tool to read codes on your vehicles? If so, which one are you using? I
  would think that the hand-held ones are not accessable to a totally
  blind person, but how about the PC interface types? Do they work with
  JAWS or Windoweyes?

  Thanks :)

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
  Man
  list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  -- 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

2007-02-05 Thread tunecollector
My little trophy wife originally considered the backyard pond but has now
decided on a raised garden bed instead.  The intended area is 12' X 12' and
is surrounded on three sides by a brick walkway and the edge of a cement
patio on the fourth.  Any ideas?  Design?  Materials?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dale Leavens
Hi Dan,

They usually use PEX these days and you don't have to solder it either. You 
fix clips to the underside of the floor and usually below that some 
reflective material and maybe some insulation.

You can even zone it . Depending on the application you connect the ends to 
manifolds at the end so that loops don't have to be continuous.

This doesn't answer your question but the task does not require all that 
copper.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 2:22 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.


 Ray,

 I need your snooping expertise.  I am going to do some research but you
 have a nack for searching.

 How do you go about determining how much tubing you would put under a
 floor to provide heat for a room?  I mean, I could probably stick for or
 five lengths of Copper tubing in each joist bay, but then again, 900 feet
 of Copper tubing might be a bit much to heat a room.

 The truly sad thing is that I am supposed to be able to calculate this
 stuff.  Hell, I probably have in the past, but there have been a
 sufficient number of years between now and my having taken heat transfer
 and Thermo Dynamics that I just don't remember anymore.  Use it or lose
 it, that is the truth.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] OBD II tool?

2007-02-05 Thread Scott Howell
Gee, I wonder if they make a software package that would run on a  
Macintosh? Sounds pretty neat, but not sure how much it would help  
me. My wife and I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Luckily it doesn't  
toss codes to offten, but most cases I think the computer just went  
mad temporarily since resetting them seems to make the problem go  
away and the engine always seems to be running fine. Go figure. grin.


Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]






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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

2007-02-05 Thread Ralph Supernaw
I made a raised garden bed about 22 inches high and about 8 by 16 out of
landscape tembers.  Were I doing it again I'd never make it so wide.  I did
like the height though.  
 
One problem I ran into was that this 200 cubic foot raised bed was situated
in a part of our yard inaccessable by motor vehicles.  By the time I had
managed to dump enough wheelbarrel loads of dirt to fill it about half way I
was beginning to wonder if I'd ever be done!
 
Ralph

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of tunecollector
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed



My little trophy wife originally considered the backyard pond but has now
decided on a raised garden bed instead. The intended area is 12' X 12' and
is surrounded on three sides by a brick walkway and the edge of a cement
patio on the fourth. Any ideas? Design? Materials?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

2007-02-05 Thread Robert J. Moore
Hi
Two questions for you
1 Are you on the blind gardener list?
2   If not and you don't get a satisfactory answer soon would you
like me to repost this question to the blind gardener list for you? I would
be happy to do that for you.
3

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of tunecollector
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

My little trophy wife originally considered the backyard pond but has now
decided on a raised garden bed instead. The intended area is 12' X 12' and
is surrounded on three sides by a brick walkway and the edge of a cement
patio on the fourth. Any ideas? Design? Materials?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

2007-02-05 Thread tunecollector
No, I am not on the blind gardeners list and, yes, I would appreciate if my
query was presented there.
Thanks,
Jim

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert J. Moore
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:15 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

Hi
Two questions for you
1 Are you on the blind gardener list?
2 If not and you don't get a satisfactory answer soon would you
like me to repost this question to the blind gardener list for you? I would
be happy to do that for you.
3

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On
Behalf Of tunecollector
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

My little trophy wife originally considered the backyard pond but has now
decided on a raised garden bed instead. The intended area is 12' X 12' and
is surrounded on three sides by a brick walkway and the edge of a cement
patio on the fourth. Any ideas? Design? Materials?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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[BlindHandyMan] raised garden bed

2007-02-05 Thread Geno69
Monday, 05, February sent at: 8:45 PM
Jim,
I live here in the city of Portland, ME. Where gardening is far from
anything to think about when the temperature (chill factor) is minus 5 As,
the wind is clicking at 25 mph and gusting at 34 mph.
Anyway, in purchasing this home the yard was a gravel parking lot and lots
of gravel around the home.
Over the years I've built four raised beds and have three in-ground. The
in-ground is lined with landscaping timber with the round side facing up.
Easy markers to find the beds. The raised beds are anything from 10 feet in
length to 24 feet in length. I have a smaller one that is a V shape and
capping front from either tip of the v. All the heights are three feet above
the 14 inches of top soil I had brought in for covering the gravel.
Anyway, in building one it is pretty easy for a blind person. I know several
that have used cobble stone or rocks to build their raised beds. Just
depending how much time you want to put in and the look you want on your
property.
S, for the filler I used here top-soil, coffee grounds, sea-weeds, much and
sand. To stay away from bagged chemicals I buy 40 pound bags of cow or and
horse manure. Each year working it into the soil.
I love my raised beds and saves a lot on the back.
All depends on what you are looking for looks and the areas that you have to
work with. Weather up against the foundation of the house or out in the
open.
One thing you might want to know raised beds require more watering as they
can dry out faster.
Geno



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] tracing a light switch

2007-02-05 Thread Dale Alton
Yeah, I use to live in Brainerd.

  - Original Message - 
  From: R.S. CHILDREY 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tracing a light switch


  Dale 
  This may be a strange question do you live in Minnesota 
  Thanks 
  Shannon Childrey 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Alton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:10 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tracing a light switch

  Hey gang,

  I moved into my house about a year ago and found a couple of light switches 
that I have no idea as to where they go. I do know that one of them heads up 
into the attic and towards the front of the house. Is there a contraption that 
I am about able to put on the light switch and have it make a sound to the 
coordinating end? I have tested several outlets to no avail. I thought maybe it 
was a three way switch that currently wasn't being used. Every place I have 
looked has just turned up dead ends. Any thoughts?

  Dale

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review

2007-02-05 Thread Boyce, Ray
Hi All
 Leigh Website -
http://www.leighjigs.com

Leigh D1600 Dovetail Jig
Review - Part 1

There is no denying that the most prominent name in dovetailing jigs is Leigh! 
Since the early '80s, Leigh have been manufacturing and retailing dovetailing
jigs to woodworkers, with their now famous D4 model jig recognized as one of 
the best available for the woodworking hobbyist or professional.

Since then, Leigh have also manufactured a mortise and tenon machining jig, and 
more recently, the little brother to the D4, the D1600 jig, which is the
subject of this particular review.

Out of the Box
The D1600 comes supplied in a well packaged box with an assortment of bits and 
pieces, so separating and sorting everything out on a large enough surface
is recommended to avoid confusion. The first item you will probably be keen to 
pick up is the DVD included in the kit. No doubt you will have this in the
DVD player and running not long after opening the box. I love when 
manufacturers include DVDs. It's that little extra bonus you don't find in many 
product
boxes. The DVD provides an excellent overview on setting up and using the D1600 
jig, and it is well worth watching before you get stuck into using the
jig.

The most important item you will want to read through is, of course, the user 
manual. This ring-bound resource is full of step by step instructions for
assembling and using the D1600 to construct all the types of joinery the jig is 
capable of producing. It is also a little more detailed than the information
provided with the DVD, so don't just throw it back in the box. It's meant to be 
used in the workshop as you craft your fine woodworking item. Keep it close
by and handy while you learn the ropes of your new D1600 jig.

A bag of various knobs and fixings are included for initial assembly and setup 
of the D1600. One of the first steps outlined in the assembly process is
to build a base for the D1600. This can be made out of any stable material, but 
plywood or MDF are probably best suited for the task. I used 3/4 chipboard
as I had plenty available at the time and it has worked fine for me so far. The 
purpose of this base is to provide a wider footprint and to add a surface
to which you can clamp the jig/base down more efficiently and safely to a 
workbench or work surface. Full instructions and a measured drawing for cutting
and drilling the base is provided. There are only a couple of other basic 
assembly steps to complete and the D1600 is ready to use. It took about 30 
minutes
to construct the base and assemble the jig fully ready for use.

Before you get started using the jig it is recommended to acquire several 
boards of cheaper softwood, usually pine or poplar, to use as sacrificial 
practice
boards before getting your teeth into more expensive wood. I would also advise 
to go back to the DVD and look at the examples given, and also take note
of special safety precautions mentioned. The last thing you wish to do is to 
destroy your new investment!

Leigh D1600 Features
So what makes the Leigh D1600 so special? I mean, you can buy cheap dovetail 
jigs from a number of other suppliers for basic dovetailing tasks... The keyword
there is basic. The inexpensive dovetail jigs available are somewhat limited in 
the types of dovetail joints they can create. Many will only be able to
make half-blind dovetails with pre-set pin spacing. What makes the Leigh 
dovetail jigs so popular is that they offer, among other features, fully 
variable
dovetail joint spacing, i.e. you can position the pins and tails wherever you 
like across the width of the joint, as well as choose how many pin/tail joint
combinations you desire as well. The cheaper jigs usually have pre-determined 
spacing that is not adjustable, which makes it hit and miss as to whether
you can make a half pin on both edges of the joint, a trait which seems quite 
desirable in dovetail joinery. The Leigh D1600 can of course ensure you have
half pins on each end of the joint, as well as variable spacing between these, 
and this is a great asset as it allows you to create joints that appear
unique and different to the next. The D1600 can also be fitted with outer 
dovetail type template jigs to create more artistic-looking joints, but we will
look at those in part 2 of this review later.

The D1600 is indeed capable of producing a wide array of joint types. No longer 
are you restricted to just half blind dovetails with the cheaper jigs on
the market. The D1600 is capable of producing half-blind dovetails, through 
dovetails, sliding and angled dovetails, as well as rabbetted and end on end
joints too. And then there are angled and offset dovetails, to name just a few 
more. You can create joints up to 16 wide with the D1600.

Build quality is also one of Leigh's best assets. All components are solid in 
construction and are precisely machined for accuracy. When you pull the D1600
out of the box, you can immediately see the level of quality it is 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Dale,

Yeah, it's just that what goes through my head is often a lot more than I 
feel like writing down.  I understand that PEX can be laid down nice and 
easy in one continuous flow but you can't make sharp bends so I figure you 
can only get two rows into each joist bay, just a guess.  Whereas, Copper 
could, in theory, be joined with tighter turns and you could get a lot 
more rows into each joist bay.  That is what was going through my head. 
That and the thought that if I said would I need to lay down seven rows of 
PEX in each joist bay someone would have told me that you can't make it 
turn that tight and you would never get that many S folds in 14 inches, 
alright alright, 14.5 inches. *GRIN*

The real question is how many is enough?  One per bay?  Seven per bay?

There is some set of calculations out there that deals with the water 
temperature, the heat conductivity of the floor above the tubing, the size 
of the room, the flow rate of the hot water through the pipes, and a guess 
at the heat loss from the room, which is a whole different set of 
calculations.  I'm just being lazy and don't feel like digging through 20 
year old tests and homework assignments to teach myself all that stuff 
again.  *GRIN*

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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[BlindHandyMan] Some More on Radiant Heating

2007-02-05 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi All
If you are looking to warm your floors with a radiant heat system, and have 
typed radiant heat system into a search engine, you might find yourself 
scratching
your head at this point. There are dozens of products available to purchase, 
and there are even more companies telling you that their product is the 
best.

So which product is the best? Should you install a hydronic heating system 
that pumps hot water through your floors, an electric cable heating system, 
or
a low voltage screen system? The answer lies in the type of project you are 
doing. Not every system is ideal for every project, but there is an ideal 
system
for every project.

Hydronic Heating Systems

Hydronic floor heating is the oldest and most popular type of radiant floor 
heating. These systems are comprised of a boiler or hot water heater, pumps,
manifolds, pex tubing, thermostat, and either gypcrete (a concrete-like 
material) or wood panels. Hydronic heating is the most complex of all 
radiant heat
systems. These systems require trained professionals to design and perform 
the installation. Your best economies of scale are achieved for hydronic 
systems
in large areas or entire homes because of their expensive components and 
operational costs.

Hydronic systems can be installed under any type of flooring. Most hydronic 
systems require hot water tubing to be installed in a 2 to 4 inch bed of 
light
concrete and are best installed during the initial construction because of 
its weight load demands and adjustments to floor height. Recent low-mass 
products
have been developed to avoid these challenges by fitting the tubing into 
pre-cut wood panels making hydronic systems more convenient and possible for 
most
major remodeling projects.

If you want to heat smaller areas like a bathroom or kitchen, a hydronic 
floor heating system may not be the best value for your project. The 
complexity
and cost of installing the system, along with the long-term maintenance and 
up-keep required, is not worth the small amount you will save in operational
costs.

Electric Cable Heating

Electric cable heating systems, often called line or high voltage systems, 
are gaining popularity and are ideal for heating smaller areas (10-300 
square
feet) like bathrooms, kitchens, and sun rooms. These systems are comprised 
of a thermostat and a heating cable. On some systems, the cable will be 
shipped
to you as a large spool of cable. These systems are often times less 
expensive, and give you the ability to space the cable how you want and 
customize
a layout that will heat every square inch of your floor. Other systems have 
the cable attached to a plastic mesh or tape to create a mat to maintain its
proper spacing.

Every available cable system is equally effective, and so when determining 
which system to purchase, you should look at the warranty of the product, 
along
with the ease of installation. Some cables must be embedded in a separate 
layer of concrete or mortar, whereas other systems can simply be installed 
in
the thin set. Most cable systems can only be installed under tile. However, 
on others, if the cable is embedded in mortar or concrete, any flooring can
be installed on top of the concrete. When heating smaller areas, it is 
nearly impossible to beat the simplicity and price of an electric cable 
heating
system.

Low-Voltage Screen

Finally, there are low-voltage radiant heat systems. These systems are ideal 
for mid-size to larger areas (300-3000 square feet) and are comprised of a
control box, transformer, heating screen or cable, and thermostat. The main 
advantage to a low-voltage screen (Zmesh) system is the extremely low 
profile
of the heating element. Zmesh is a 12 inch wide bronze-wired mesh that 
resembles screen door material. This mesh is practically paper thin and does 
not
buildup floors during the installation. Zmesh can be installed directly 
under any type of flooring including hardwood, tile, and carpet. Whereas 
most cable
systems must be installed on top of the concrete board when installing tile, 
Zmesh can be installed underneath it. These systems are easy to install and
don't require maintenance like a hydronic system.

Radiant heat technology has made significant advances over the years and is 
an excellent way to supplement your existing heating system or be your sole
source of heat. One good way to be assured that you're being sold the best 
system for your project is to buy from a company that offers all of the 
available
types of radiant heat.

Warmzone, Inc. is one company who carries various types of radiant systems 
and is dedicated to specifying the product that makes the most sense for 
each
individual job. Without a bias towards one system they have become a 
consumer advocate in the radiant industry and will save you time and money. 
Warmzone
has already done the research and has selected to only work with the best 
products on the market. Because they are a large nation-wide wholesaler,