[BlindHandyMan] A Few Handy Tips

2007-03-15 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Everyone
Q: I know I can prime and paint medium density fiberboard, but is there any 
other type of finish I can use?

: Shellac will seal MDF, though it takes a few coats. I'd suggest de-waxed 
shellac. Zinsser SealCoat is a good de-waxed shellac.

: Actually, any common finish will work over MDF. The problem is that it 
takes more coats than normal, since the MDF absorbs a lot of finish,
and may swell with waterbased coatings. While solvent- and oil-based 
finishes, like shellac, lacquer and oil varnish, will work, you still end up 
with
something that looks like MDF under the clear coating, which may be the 
biggest drawback of all.
Q: Can I use a rotary sander on a birch table I am making?

: My experience with rotary sanders is that they leave swirl marks, 
especially difficult to get rid of on hard woods. You are much better
off sticking to a random orbit sander.
 Q: It is my impression that shellac is the universal sealer and can be 
applied over anything and will bond with it, and anything can be applied on 
top
of it, and they will bond. Is this true?

: Almost. Only dewaxed shellac fits that description. Natural shellac, which 
contains about five percent wax, does not. The easiest way
to buy dewaxed shellac is ready-mixed in the form of Zinsser SealCoatT.
Q: I want to make a small square hole through a piece of wood. Is there a 
tool that will do that?

mortising chisel : I suggest that you use a straight chisel and lay out the 
hole to size. A corner chisel would come in handy to clean up
and square up the cut. You can also drill out most of the waste and then 
corner chisel it square.

: A square cutter for a drill press, called a mortising attachment or hollow 
chisel mortiser, will work; otherwise, drill a hole a smidge
smaller than needed, then use mortising chisels and a mallet to square the 
hole.
Q: After a pine sample blotched, I used wood conditioner and got good 
results on a door. I'd like to stain a second time after waiting overnight. 
Do I need
a second application of wood conditioner?

: No, you only apply wood conditioner once. After the first coat of stain is 
dry, the wood is at least partially sealed, so there is no
more need for conditioner.
Q: How do I know what size drill bit to use for wood screws? Is there a 
hidden code someplace on the package, or is this something you are supposed 
to just
know?

: When pre-drilling holes for screws, there's a rule of thumb that comes in 
two parts: In softwoods, pick a bit that's the diameter of the root
of the screw, which is the shank area just below the screw threads, and not 
the shank portion directly below the screw's head. In hardwoods, pick the 
next
bigger size, or about one sixty-fourth of an inch larger.

: I hold my drill bit up to the screw and try to match the bit to the inner 
diameter of the screw. That's the core without the threads.

: Go visit
www.wlfuller.com
Fuller manufactures counterbores, plug cutters, taper point drills and brad 
points made in the USA. Request a catalog. It is jam-packed full of 
information
and recommendations for wood screw pre-drill size and length.

: Just measure the valleys of the thread. Calipers are a great tool for 
this task.

: Traditional screws with a tapered shank need two holes: a clearance hole 
through the upper piece of wood and a pilot hole in the lower piece
for the screw threads to bite into. The clearance hole lets the screw pass 
through without the threads biting. You can also buy taper drills and step 
drills
that will replace or replicate the holes I described.
Q: I was able to rescue some 100-year-old peroba do campo wood roof beams in 
quite good condition except for irregular black stains around holes made by
old iron nails. How can I remove these stains?

: An oxalic solution may remove most of the color. Using touchup powders or 
background type touchup markers can cover any remaining color.

: Flood the wood with a 10% solution of oxalic acid, but apply it to all 
areas, not just the black stains themselves. Vacuum the residual
salt the next day, or wipe it off with a damp cloth. Oxalic acid powder is 
considered toxic and is an irritant to mucous membranes in its dry state, so
wear a dust mask when you sand treated wood and when you mix the powder into 
water initially
Q: What is a drill press fly cutter?

: It's a dangerous tool that starts with a rod chucked in your drill press. 
The other end of the rod has a perpendicular bar with a cutter hanging
off the end of it. The bar or cutter adjusts for varying hole diameters. In 
my opinion, there are much better and safer tools. For large holes, use hole
saws rather than a fly cutter.

: Fly cutters are commonly used by guitarmakers to cut both sound holes and 
rosette rings in spruce tops. Their advantage is that you can
set them at any diameter within their range, and not just nominal ones, but, 
as Carol said, they can be very dangerous. They work best making shallow 
cuts
in soft woods.
 Q: What's 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

2007-03-15 Thread rj
But just think, the light bulb will never burn our.
  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?


  Teflon tape is a definate insulator. If the threads don't cut through enough 
to make contact. Then light no workie.
  Ronn
  -
   Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

  well, as the great Chili brought Teflon to mind, you could also use teflon 
  tape like with pipes.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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[BlindHandyMan] SmartTools Audible Level Measure Tech Plus Audible Stud Finder

2007-03-15 Thread Edward Przybylek
Hi all,

I just got my SmartTools Audible level and I thought I'd write and 
pass on some information.  This has almost immediately become one of 
my favorite tools.  Leveling is one of those tasks that I always had 
to do with sighted help.  This level makes it possible for me to do 
verticle and horrizontal leveling without help.  It's very easy to 
use and is very accurate.  The only thing I don't like about the tool 
is that it's case is made of plastic.  I've got a couple of real jobs 
for the level coming up and I can't wait to see how it performs on 
the battlefield.

I bought the level online at www.speedpartz.com.  They also have an 
(800) number.  I searched the web for a long time and found that this 
is the cheapest place to buy the level.  I bought the main module, a 
two-foot frame and a soft case for the level and the total cost was 
$121.40.  Granted, the price is a bit steep but this is one sweet tool.

I also just ordered the Measure Tech Audible Stud Sensor from 
www.amazon.com.  Again, after searching the web for a while, I found 
that Amazon had the stud finder for the same price as everyone 
else.  One of their listings, however, offered factory refurbished 
units at a really great price.  The cost was approximately $23 for 
the tool and shipping.  I haven't received it yet so I can't give 
anykind of review.  Stay tuned.

Take care,
Ed



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[BlindHandyMan] doweling jig from Harbor Freight

2007-03-15 Thread John Schwery
Somebody mentioned getting a jig from Harbor Freight.  I have the 
self-centering jig from there and I have had good success with that 
one.  It looks like an upside down vice with holes in it.  Both jaws 
move together and that is why it can center.  Works good as a drill guide, too.


John


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question

2007-03-15 Thread Brice Mijares
The one I have drops the material below the spreader, but I can control the 
amount being dropped.  Being that my wife can see, she could do a uniformed 
job.
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question


 Dear Brice:
If your spreader has a spinning device  which throws the fertilizer in 
 a
 pattern which is wider than the
 spreader itself, you should be able to spread seed  with good results.  If
 your spreader simply drops fertilize underneath the spreader, I would 
 think
 you would have a hard time getting a uniform distribution and you would
 likely get too much seed  in the area covered.


Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson
 - Original Message - 
 From: Brice Mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:45 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question


I have one of those deal you push around over the lawn to spread granule
 fertilizer evenly.  Can I put lawn seed in it and spread seed over my 
 lawn
 to thicken it?




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question

2007-03-15 Thread spiro
forgive me being desne.
I thank you for your suggestion. But my local who?
I don't know to who you refer.


On Wed, 14 Mar 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

 Your local extension office will be able to help you out with this too.  We 
 bought grass seed that was developed for our area at a local gardening 
 center.  They also sell grass seed at Wall-mart.  The benefit to the 
 gardening center was that we could buy it in the amount we wanted instead of 
 the pre-packaged amounts.

 A thought for those who have Easter baskets to fill.  We are putting grass 
 seed in our kids baskets instead of shredded paper or that plastic stuff.  
 The idea came from some friends who used grass seeds mixed with rose petals 
 to shower over a processional.  As one of the people being heavily pelted by 
 my husbands friends, I was glad it was nice soft grass seed instead of bird 
 seed.


 Jennifer
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question


  and does anyone know where to get Zoizia seed? i order plugs and they
  arrive half dead. So I want to try seed.

  On Wed, 14 Mar 2007, Brice Mijares wrote:

   I have one of those deal you push around over the lawn to spread granule
   fertilizer evenly. Can I put lawn seed in it and spread seed over my lawn
   to thicken it?
  
  
  
  
   To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
   or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
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 List Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

2007-03-15 Thread carl
so does the jig hold the drill or is it just as a guide
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Patterson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 12:42 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.


  The jig clamps to the face of the board, and - has three guides that
  allow you to drill in to the face of the board, and if you were to go all
  the way through, the hole would come out the edge of the board.
  This creates the Pocket that you drive a screw in to.
  Hope this helps, but maybe I should just have another beer.
  KP

  Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of carl
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 3:33 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  so what funcktion does the jig part of the set doe or take in the drilling
  proscess
  - Original Message -
  From: Mickey Fixsen
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  Yes, that would be how it works.

  - Original Message -
  From: carl
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  pardon my ignorance but cud i use it for mounteing a table topon to a frame
  ? how wud i doe this drill the pocket and crew down threw the frame and into
  the under side of the table top?
  - Original Message -
  From: Mickey Fixsen
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  I have been using 2 different models of the Kreg pocket hole tools for
  years. They are quality tools and well worth the price. As long as you have
  made good cuts on the boards, the pocket holes make very tight, strong
  joints. These tools are easy to use with very little learning curve.

  You must use the proper screws to make the system work correctly. All of the
  screws for this purpose have a flat pan head toward the shank of the screw
  and the top of the screw head is a low dome with a square drive. There are
  fine thread self-tapping screws for hardwood and coarse thread self-tapping
  screws for softwood. I think there are even special thread screws for
  particle and fiber board, although, I have used the coarse thread screws for
  this purpose with good results. They are available in various lengths and
  with different coatings, depending whether for indoor or outdoor use.

  In my shop, the Kreg pocket hole tools are a must have item.

  Good luck.

  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:14 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  So I just read Ray's post on the Kreg R3 pocket hole joinery kit. I don't
  know much, or anything, about pocket hole joinery. Has anyone used this
  particular kit, or any others? Can anyone give me an idea on whether or
  not this R3 kit seems like a worthwhile investment? Or is there another
  pocket hole kit that you have used that is just the be all and end all of
  pocket joinery?

  thanks.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

2007-03-15 Thread carl
i want one of theas but thair cheeper in the states than the uk wude somne one 
buy one and sel it to me? 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 12:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.


  The jig is essentially a block that has 2 holes in it that are made out of 
hardened steel tubes in which you insert the drill bit to make the pocket 
holes. These drill guides clamp to the side of a piece of wood an appropriate 
distance from the edge that you want to join. the drill guides are angled at 
about fifteen degrees and the bit cuts a shallow angled pocket hole in the 
board. It also drills a pilot hole for the shank of the screw at the same time. 
This is accomplished by the use of a special stepped drill bit. There is a stop 
collar on the drill bit to adjust for the proper depth of the pocket holes. 
This depth setting is very important. Drill the holes using the pocket hole jig 
clamped it he appropriate location. Now, all you need to do is align the two 
boards together and drive the screws through the pocket holes and into the 
adjacent board.

  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 2:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  so what funcktion does the jig part of the set doe or take in the drilling 
proscess
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  Yes, that would be how it works.

  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  pardon my ignorance but cud i use it for mounteing a table topon to a frame ? 
how wud i doe this drill the pocket and crew down threw the frame and into the 
under side of the table top?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  I have been using 2 different models of the Kreg pocket hole tools for years. 
They are quality tools and well worth the price. As long as you have made good 
cuts on the boards, the pocket holes make very tight, strong joints. These 
tools are easy to use with very little learning curve.

  You must use the proper screws to make the system work correctly. All of the 
screws for this purpose have a flat pan head toward the shank of the screw and 
the top of the screw head is a low dome with a square drive. There are fine 
thread self-tapping screws for hardwood and coarse thread self-tapping screws 
for softwood. I think there are even special thread screws for particle and 
fiber board, although, I have used the coarse thread screws for this purpose 
with good results. They are available in various lengths and with different 
coatings, depending whether for indoor or outdoor use.

  In my shop, the Kreg pocket hole tools are a must have item.

  Good luck.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:14 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

  So I just read Ray's post on the Kreg R3 pocket hole joinery kit. I don't 
  know much, or anything, about pocket hole joinery. Has anyone used this 
  particular kit, or any others? Can anyone give me an idea on whether or 
  not this R3 kit seems like a worthwhile investment? Or is there another 
  pocket hole kit that you have used that is just the be all and end all of 
  pocket joinery?

  thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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[BlindHandyMan] Window Screens

2007-03-15 Thread Larry Stansifer
Hi Folks,
 
Well here we go again...
 
I am faced with replacing a whole bunch of window screens on
both my home and my rental property.
These screens are the type that fit into an aluminum frame
and are secured with a thin rubber or vinal cord. I have
attempted these in the past and ended up with screens that
were tight in certain areas and loose in other spots in the
same frame.
How do I keep the screen consistently tight over the area of
the frame? What is the prescribed method for cutting the
screen so that I don't spend a lot of time trimming off
edges that protrude above the frame once the cord is in
place?
 
Damn... I hate this home improvement stuff.
 
 

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

 


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question

2007-03-15 Thread Jim Ruby
What would be the best way for some one who is totally blind to spread grass
seed? I will need to do as I will probably be wanting to do this soon.



-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 8:42 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question

The one I have drops the material below the spreader, but I can control the 
amount being dropped.  Being that my wife can see, she could do a uniformed 
job.
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question


 Dear Brice:
If your spreader has a spinning device  which throws the fertilizer in 
 a
 pattern which is wider than the
 spreader itself, you should be able to spread seed  with good results.  If
 your spreader simply drops fertilize underneath the spreader, I would 
 think
 you would have a hard time getting a uniform distribution and you would
 likely get too much seed  in the area covered.


Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson
 - Original Message - 
 From: Brice Mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:45 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a different lawn question


I have one of those deal you push around over the lawn to spread granule
 fertilizer evenly.  Can I put lawn seed in it and spread seed over my 
 lawn
 to thicken it?




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

2007-03-15 Thread Tom Fowle
No, you couldn't use teflon tape, or not if you wanted the light to work
any more, teflon is a very good insulator.

Tom



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[BlindHandyMan] Tool Review

2007-03-15 Thread Boyce, Ray
Hi All
Infinity Kitchen Set Router Bits
Review

If you are planning to renovate a kitchen, replace kitchen cabinets and build 
them from scratch or even just build any type of cabinet, you are going to
need the right router bits to help construct solid doors and drawers. A kitchen 
with finished wooden doors is much nicer and richer in color and style
(in my opinion) than some of the new vinyl wrapped and plastic formed doors and 
drawers that are common in the cheaper renovations and flat pack kitchens
these days.

The ability to make your own solid wood doors and drawers/drawer fronts not 
only gives you complete customization of your new kitchen, but is much stronger
than some of the flat pack, no glue, screw together systems now available.

Today we are reviewing Infinity's Kitchen Making Set of router bits to see how 
well they perform, and whether they would be a good choice for your kitchen
renovation or building project...

Complete Standard Kitchen Set
The set we reviewed was the Complete Standard Kitchen Set. You can buy it as a 
set, or you can buy the items in the set individually if desired, or as required
by your project or budget. The following items make up the Complete Standard 
Kitchen Set (note that all router bits have a 1/2 shank):
* 91-502  Standard Rail  Stile Set (2 bits)
* 90-502  Standard Raised Panel Bit
* 55-501  Glue Joint Bit
* 55-512 Drawer Locking Bit

These five router bits will allow you to make raised panel doors, construct 
drawers for your cabinets and even edge join boards with great strength. The
Standard Rail  Stile set also comes with free UHMW-milled setup blocks which 
will help in setting router bit height, and take away most of the guesswork
associated with that task.

Note that Infinity Tools also sells sets incorporating ogee raised panel bits, 
cove raised panel bits and two other variations so you can choose the set
that will offer the pattern and finish you are looking for in your cabinet and 
door building project.

Common Features
There are several common features in all Infinity router bits. To begin with, 
Infinity uses C2 micrograde carbide in their router bits (some bits in their
range use C4). This finer carbide allows a fine finish and edge to be created, 
creating a sharper router bit that will also extend working time before
re-sharpening is needed. A five axis grind crafted from numerically controlled 
machines ensures excellent cutting properties and solid cutting results.

The 1/2 shanks on these bits are milled from stress-proof, solid steel bar. 
According to infinity, the milling process incorporates computerized lathes
to produce a perfectly balanced shank. We certainly had no problems with 
balance in use.

All Infinity router bits feature anti-kickback design, as most any new router 
bits on the market these days should feature, as well as a silver PTFE coating
which helps prevents rust problems and gives the router bit a smooth finish. 
The silver also helps identify the router bit as an Infinity tools bit, although
the infinity logo and bit number are displayed on the shank as well.

All the router bits (except the raised panel bit) came shipped with a 
rubber-type dip coating to protect the surfaces from rust or damage, and ship 
in a
re-sealable plastic pouch. There was no sign of shank rust on any of the router 
bits and no sign of damage to any of the carbide cutting edges. Infinity
does offer a lifetime warranty on their router bits before re-sharpening - this 
naturally excludes normal wear and tear and dullness due to bit use of
course. For the patriotic, Infinity router bits are made in the USA.

To the Bit-cave Batman!
With the above being said, I set about firstly creating a raised panel door 
with the kitchen set. This uses models 91-502 (Standard Rail  Stile Set) and
90-502 (Standard Raised Panel) bits to create the door. I used 3/4 stock for 
both the rail and stiles, and the raised panel. Note that the raised panel
bit does not feature a backcutter on it, however, a special 3-wing backcutter 
bit can be purchased from Infinity to use on your raised panels.

What does a backcutter do?
Well, in situations where your rails/stiles and raised panels are constructed 
using the same thickness material, because the groove in the rail/stiles that
the raised panel sits within is offset from the bottom of the rail/stile, your 
raised panel will not end up being level with the rails and stiles on both
the front and back faces. On the backside of the door, the raised panel will 
appear to be recessed in regard to the frame. A backcutter simply takes off
a a portion of the raised panel on the back around each edge so that when it 
fits into the groove of the rails and stiles, both the raised panel face on
the front side and the flat back on the backside is level with the rails and 
stiles on both sides. Everybody got that? A bit confusing to put it into words
:-)

To make a door we need two rails, two stiles and one raised panel. Be 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a home recording studio

2007-03-15 Thread Kevin Doucet
Hi,

Hmmm, The thing that confused me is that you say you installed the 
second drive and installed windows on it. then you mention copying 
your files from one drive to the other. If you have two drives with 
windows installed on it that is your problem. Even though one is a 
slave the installation of windows on the second drive would have made 
some references to that windows install as the primary install and 
they both are probably trying to run at the same time.

At 02:15 AM 2/15/2007 -0800, you wrote:

Hi Guys,

I hope my computer project is not off topic. If so, please let me know.
I am putting together a little recording studio and let's just say I am
messing things up.

I recently installed a second hard drive in my computer and it has
caused problems with JAWS. The audio cuts in and out. It is like
there's a buffering problem while listening to an audio stream on
dialup. It is choppy when I type too.

Initially, the new drive was going to be my only hard drive. I
connected it up and installed Windows XP Pro on it. To make copying
files to it easier, I connected both hard drives to the computer and
copied the data files over. It booted just fine with the original hard
drive booting and the new hard drive act as a slave.

Could the fact that I installed Windows on the new hard drive be the
problem in any way? It is connected up as the slave and the original
hard drive is the master. I don't know why it would make a difference.
Could a jumper be the issue?

I'd like to try sending JAWS out my Delta audio card to see if that
could temporarily fix my audio problem. Can any one tell me how to do
that?

I am hoping these problems are driver issues!

Thanks for your help in advance,

Keith

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Thanks.



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confuse as says

Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a home recording studio

2007-03-15 Thread Kevin Doucet
Hi,

Duel boot usually is achieved by installing two different versions of 
an OS, operating system,  on the primary drive with a program to 
intercept the boot process and ask which OS you want to boot in to. 
Not having an OS on two drives and trying to boot separately. The 
CMOS settings are to choose boot sequence and attributes of individual drives.

At 02:18 PM 2/15/2007 -0500, you wrote:

Hi Keith,

It is possible to install different versions of Windows on two different
drives, although I'm not sure of the process, I do know that switching
Windows platforms is not exactly Jaws friendly.

Once you go into the Windows install screen, it will indicate that you have
a previous or other version of Windows installed on that computer already.
It will then indicate that it is possible to create a dual boot Windows
install, and it will ask you what you want to do.

I'm not sure if this is available in other versions of Windows, but I know
that XP Pro does allow you to do this.

By not exactly Jaws friendly, I mean that the computer will ask you which
version of Windows you want to boot into, at that point, you'll have to
indicate which one you want, but, as I said, this process is not screen
reader friendly.

Having said that, I do know that the jumpers need to be configured to the
proper slave and master settings.

I can't rightly say which are the jumpers for master or slave alignment, but
I do believe that someone posted those jumper settings not too long ago on
this list.

With that in mind, I have a pretty good idea that you'll have to go into
your CMOS settings to check out what you have going on in there also.

Victor


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Thanks.



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Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!




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[BlindHandyMan] Dethatching blades

2007-03-15 Thread Jeff Kisecker
Hi:

I am looking at buying a dethatching blade for my lawn more.  Has anyone
used one of these, and if so, did it work?  I have a lot of thatch in my
yard from last summer, I really want to get rid of it and start over, but I
don't want to rake by hand.

Thanks for your feedback, Jeff and Guide dog Chief


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[BlindHandyMan] Progress report on Radio Desk.

2007-03-15 Thread Max Robinson
Hi Guys.  The radio desk is fully assembled.  In fact it was all together 
before I left for Texas.  I had started hand sanding and decided to get a 
power sander.  I stopped on the way home from the airport and bought a 
random orbital .  But the finest grit I can get for it is 220.  After I 
arrived home I read Ray's post on sanders and wished I had gotten a palm 
sander along with the orbital.  The orbital seems to be doing a pretty good 
job though.  Someone asked if it is possible to sand too much.  The answer 
is yes.  I started on the back for learning.  In one spot I did sand through 
the outer ply and into the inner plies of the wood.  That will be up against 
the wall and never seen except by me and Sue.  Next step is to iron on the 
tape that will hide the edges of the plywood.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

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Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] dremels?

2007-03-15 Thread Kevin Doucet
Aha!

That's it. Thanks for setting me straight!


At 04:38 PM 2/7/2007 -0800, you wrote:

No those were Tribbles?' (spelling?) they were round and fuzzy which Dremel's
are not usually unless left out in the rain too long.

tom


No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.30/674 - Release Date: 
2/7/2007 3:33 PM

Thanks.



Kevin Doucet
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confuse as says

Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] SmartTools Audible Level Measure Tech Plus Audible Stud Finder

2007-03-15 Thread Ricque
If this is the smart tool from, Macklinburg-Duncan,
you made a good buy.
There should be frames available up to 8 foot long.
Richard Justice
www.blind-computing.com
- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyManList blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:21 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] SmartTools Audible Level  Measure Tech Plus 
Audible Stud Finder


 Hi all,

 I just got my SmartTools Audible level and I thought I'd write and
 pass on some information.  This has almost immediately become one of
 my favorite tools.  Leveling is one of those tasks that I always had
 to do with sighted help.  This level makes it possible for me to do
 verticle and horrizontal leveling without help.  It's very easy to
 use and is very accurate.  The only thing I don't like about the tool
 is that it's case is made of plastic.  I've got a couple of real jobs
 for the level coming up and I can't wait to see how it performs on
 the battlefield.

 I bought the level online at www.speedpartz.com.  They also have an
 (800) number.  I searched the web for a long time and found that this
 is the cheapest place to buy the level.  I bought the main module, a
 two-foot frame and a soft case for the level and the total cost was
 $121.40.  Granted, the price is a bit steep but this is one sweet tool.

 I also just ordered the Measure Tech Audible Stud Sensor from
 www.amazon.com.  Again, after searching the web for a while, I found
 that Amazon had the stud finder for the same price as everyone
 else.  One of their listings, however, offered factory refurbished
 units at a really great price.  The cost was approximately $23 for
 the tool and shipping.  I haven't received it yet so I can't give
 anykind of review.  Stay tuned.

 Take care,
 Ed

 



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