Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?
Is this tool the same as a rotor hammer? If so, why not just rent one? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 8:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough? OK, I know that bigger is typically better. More power. rah! Rah! I am considering purchasing an impact driver. They seem to come in 800 inch pound and 1280 inch pound models. Do I really need 1280 inch pounds? What if I want to drive a 2 3/4 TapCon into concrete, can 800 inch pounds pull it off?: Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4497 (20091011) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4497 (20091011) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?
Again, when buying any cordless tool, it makes sense to look at the other cordless tools from the same company. Dewalt and Ryobi both use the same battery on their entire line. Makita makes a lot of 18 volt tools but they use different styles of batteries and they aren't all interchangeable. They have the pod style which I have in a drill from Makita. But then they might decide to build a line of 18 volt tools that use a slide on style battery. Sense we are talking inch pounds of torque, the numbers are big in difference, but in operation I don't think it is that great. The impact driver works just like the tire gun you see in the tire shops. When it starts driving a screw or fastener, there is a clutch inside that is set for when it calls for help. At that point it will start impacting and it will bring it or ring it as they say down here... I use mine for everything because it is smaller and lighter than a full blown 18 volt drill. And they make all kinds of attachments with a quarter inch hex on it now. You have to have that if you use the impact driver. If you are putting in the bolts to cement, any impact gun will do that for you. The only thing to worry about is if it will ring off the head because the hole was too small or tight. But you'll run into that with a drill too. I started out with an 18 volt Makita drill and still love it. Then I got a steel on a Dewalt drill and found all the other tools that same set of batteries would fit and went a bit crazy collecting afterwards. But you can pick up a tool only and that is the bargain. A replacement battery is about $60 and the lithiums are even more. Each time you buy a kit from any brand it comes with one and usually 2 batteries, the tool, some little extras and a box or bag. I have 4 batteries, but about 7 or 8 tools for them. So now that you are really confused, I'll go get some coffee. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 11:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough? OK, I know that bigger is typically better. More power. rah! Rah! I am considering purchasing an impact driver. They seem to come in 800 inch pound and 1280 inch pound models. Do I really need 1280 inch pounds? What if I want to drive a 2 3/4 TapCon into concrete, can 800 inch pounds pull it off?: Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.
Well, yesterday was the second day in a row with no rain so the patio was dry. I put a couple of finishing touches to it, a couple of bricks to cut and fit where things weren't perfectly square. Janet and I then began sweeping the polymerized sand into the cracks. I used 2 by 4s to divide the patio into manageable sections, usually 8 by 15 inch chunks more or less, two bags about per section. Once swept back and forth and back and forth I would set up another pair of boards to move over and then dump two more bags and leave Janet to get on with that while I shook the previously done section down with my packer. Then another brush over to top up the seams until we covered the nearly 50 feet. One final brush over and another packing of the entire patio. This is difficult because of the size, I used a bamboo stick like a cane to help orient my distance from house walls and patio edge and the like. I just got well tucked into sweeping off any residue so it doesn't stick and dirty the bricks when a sudden, and I mean sudden snow flurry struck just around 8:30 last night. I couldn't keep ahead of it with my big shop vac and had to give in. There has been an inch and a bit of wet snow over everything all night. There shouldn't be much of that sticky sand on the bricks but I won't know until the snow is gone and it is a bugger to get off. I shovel the patio off over the winter so perhaps the scraper will clean it up before spring. All I needed was another hour or less! The snow should be gone by tomorrow so I should be able to pick up the junk I left on the lawn then. I hope to lay a bit more retaining wall before the final snow arrives for the season but it is cold and wet now so might not get all that done. Usually permanent snow arrives to stay around Remembrance day, November 11. We don't get much useable weather though from now on and some of that is needed to remove leaves and other garden clean-up. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go. John
RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
Hi Dale, Thanks for the information. I never did, and probably never will, understand this horsepower rating stuff. I once owned a table saw that was rated at 2 horsepower and it constantly bogged down trying to cut heavier pieces of wood. At some point, I inherited a saw with a 1.5 horsepower motor and it never stalled no matter what I put through it. Both were belt drives with 10 inch blades. I never could figure out why a 2 horsepower motor would bog down cutting a piece of wood that wouldn't make a 1.5 horsepower motor even break a sweat. Years ago, my company decided that all non-electrical engineers (software, mechanical, optical, etc) needed a basic understanding of electricity and electrical concepts. They put all of us through six weeks of training using an extensive collection of video recorded classes. Many things made a great deal of sense after the class but, after not using most of the information for years, most of what I learned has faded into oblivion. Maybe it's time to haul out my recordings of the classes again and take a refresher course. But, being electron and proton challenged, I'm sure I'll be writing the list with all manner of electrical related questions. And yeah, before some smart ass on the list points it out, I do know that there are such things as neutrons. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question I don't know really how you would do that without very specialized equipment but it really doesn't matter much so long as it performs to your requirements. There quite probably is a measure which can be said to produce a horsepower of that rating at least briefly and the manufacturer could probably produce that proof or definition but for practical purposes a horse and a half is about all you can get out of a 110 volt 15 amp circuit. My Delta 18 inch drum sander and my compressor will both trip a 15 amp breaker. The sander is rated at 1.5 HP but I have to watch not to feed it too fast and allow it to bog down. I always knew that my compressor over rated it's horsepower but it too will trip it's own 15 amp breaker I believe on start-up. Not all of the time, I often forget to turn it off and it will cycle for a couple of days then apparently get fed-up and shut itself off for me. I suppose that ideally one would power a treadmill with foot power. I don't much like treadmills for that reason and really they should only need to produce enough power to move the belt along. Big powerful motors really only exercise the power company turbines. The article I read on Wikipedia on horsepower indicated that a human can produce the 550 foot pounds only very briefly. a 3 horsepower treadmill presumably can do 1650 foot pounds indefinitely. What for? - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 8:47 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi all, I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased a new treadmill. The unit has a 3.5 horsepower motor, is capable of a 12% incline and has a top speed of 10 MPH. This discussion thread has concerned itself with motors 2.5 HP and lower and whether there needs to be a concern about breaker ratings. Given that this unit has a motor with 3.5 HP, are there concerns I should be addressing? We use the treadmill for
RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
Hi Michael, I'm sure your correct about so many of these ratings being marketing ploys for people who know little about a given subject. I've always been a firm believer of the bigger is better concept (the Tim Taylor syndrome). I've gotten better over the years, though. Limited money and too many things out there I'd like to own have influenced me a great deal over the last several years. The only reason we bought the better, higher powered, treadmill is because it was on clearance and actually cost $200 less than the model below it. It has a few nicer features than the lower model but I'm sure we would have done without them before we would have paid the extra $200 for them. This list is great for filling in one's knowledge gaps and I'm sure I'll be back with many more basic level electrical questions. Thanks. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question I would almost guess that the peak hp of that motor is 3.5, but the continuous hp is around 1.5- 2.0. Which basically means, that if all the right conditions existed, that motor could put out 3.5 hp. Which, connected to a 20 amp 120 volt outlet won't happen. Convert it to 240 volt, and then it won't be a problem. It is a marketing ploy that a lot of treadmill manufactures use, they give you the peak hp of the motor. i have seen some treadmill motors now use PWM (pulse Width modulation), which means nothing to me, so I don't know how this effects HP of an electric motor. Or some electric motors actually run on D/C, and not A/C, again, I have no clue how that will effect HP of the motor, I know it makes the motor more energy efficient. To make things even more confusing, some treadmill manufactures rate their motor HP at the final drive, after all gear ratios and such. It is hard to compare them apples to apples. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi all, I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased a new treadmill. The unit has a 3.5 horsepower motor, is capable of a 12% incline and has a top speed of 10 MPH. This discussion thread has concerned itself with motors 2.5 HP and lower and whether there needs to be a concern about breaker ratings. Given that this unit has a motor with 3.5 HP, are there concerns I should be addressing? We use the treadmill for power walking and I'm quite sure it will never see speeds much over 5 or 6 MPH. We've had the incline up to 8 percent and I'm sure we'll have it up to the 12% maximum before too long. We haven't popped a breaker yet but I just want to be sure that there isn't something I should be doing just as a precaution. Thanks. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 1:43 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
Well, in the end that is the important thing. The things we accumulate should do what we want them to do reliably and conveniently for the price we are willing to pay. It is sometimes difficult for me to remember that the only purpose a manufacturer has is to move as much money from my pocket to theirs as they can as quickly and efficiently as they can. Your treadmill was not built and sold with your health in mind. That holds for every stage along the way from the shipper to the retailer. If a horsepower rating clinches a sale for some then that is what they will give. Like Dan's dilemma over an impact driver, the precise rating is less important than enough power to perform the work he needs or wants to perform. Twisting the heads off of bolts is not the goal. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:28 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Michael, I'm sure your correct about so many of these ratings being marketing ploys for people who know little about a given subject. I've always been a firm believer of the bigger is better concept (the Tim Taylor syndrome). I've gotten better over the years, though. Limited money and too many things out there I'd like to own have influenced me a great deal over the last several years. The only reason we bought the better, higher powered, treadmill is because it was on clearance and actually cost $200 less than the model below it. It has a few nicer features than the lower model but I'm sure we would have done without them before we would have paid the extra $200 for them. This list is great for filling in one's knowledge gaps and I'm sure I'll be back with many more basic level electrical questions. Thanks. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question I would almost guess that the peak hp of that motor is 3.5, but the continuous hp is around 1.5- 2.0. Which basically means, that if all the right conditions existed, that motor could put out 3.5 hp. Which, connected to a 20 amp 120 volt outlet won't happen. Convert it to 240 volt, and then it won't be a problem. It is a marketing ploy that a lot of treadmill manufactures use, they give you the peak hp of the motor. i have seen some treadmill motors now use PWM (pulse Width modulation), which means nothing to me, so I don't know how this effects HP of an electric motor. Or some electric motors actually run on D/C, and not A/C, again, I have no clue how that will effect HP of the motor, I know it makes the motor more energy efficient. To make things even more confusing, some treadmill manufactures rate their motor HP at the final drive, after all gear ratios and such. It is hard to compare them apples to apples. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi all, I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased a new treadmill. The unit
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.
Hi Betsy, This has been a most unusual summer. Rain and cool until September really with the exception of a day or two most weeks. The gardens didn't do well although my roses have really taken off since the end of September, there just wasn't enough sustained heat. September was remarkably good, I laid a lot of stone and had a lot laid for me. Since the last couple of days in September though we keep getting fine drizzle and cold conditions though not much below normal average temperatures, the wet though is interfering. There are a lot of folk legends about predicting the severity of winter, the depth of snow and so on, I don't believe much of it. Certain wasps or bees are said to build their nests higher when deep snow is expected, I rather doubt that, seems to me they would want the insulation of the snow to help the hives survive. Certainly the animals put on heavier coats most of them in the winter but they do that every winter. There have been a lot of geese in the air but they are all gone now, or at least I haven't heard them going over for the past two weeks and I don't hear the hunters out. Moose season opened in this area yesterday so the roads are full of hunters and trailers. Black bears are quite a nuisance this year but that probably has more to do with a late berry season and since canceling the spring bear hunt their number is increasing so they get bolder looking for food. Getting snow cover this time of year is not all that unusual, maybe just a little early but I have often frozen fingers planting fall bulbs because the nurseries won't send them out that couple of weeks early. Janet and I figure the useful outdoor season for us ends just about now, Canadian Thanks Giving and doesn't really begin again before the first week in May. I am thinking next year when I retire I'll close off the water and drain the pipes for about the first of November and go find somewhere in the sun to spend the time until May. Usually once we hit the first week in May things just explode and you need to be here to keep on top of the vegetation. Besides, I won't have all my work done before next winter. Some time after that I hope to unload this old shack for a reasonable amount of money to be able to relocate. Don't know if that answered any of your questions directly but I hope so. We had some friends come along with a utility trailer on Thursday to remove loads of accumulated detritus of the building projects around here. Friday night while waiting for the patio to dry thoroughly Janet and I move a few of the left over bricks onto a pallet in the lane just to have in case repairs are needed. Next decent weather I guess I'll have to cut back those roses for the winter and chip all that debris. Usually I also work about 30 bags of composted manure into the flower beds particularly to have it present for the bulbs when they emerge in the spring. The roses and other gardens can wait for the spring, maybe I'll just buy enough for the front and the lily gardens, maybe I can get Janet to do that some dry day even if I am at work. Doing it all is something I should help her with as the bags get pretty heavy really fast. The gardening got a little ahead of me this year with all the extra work but I am getting to look like an aging miniature Adonis GRIN. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects. Aloha Dale, Everytime I read the posts about your and Dan's project updates, I have sore muscles for at least a week, grin... Hearing about snow is astonishing to me as we have had about ten days of the hottest, most humid weather we had in months. I am wondering if there are signs of whether you're likely to have a very cold or mild Winter like there are in such places as Reno, Navada, where my parents live. Mom tells me that they can tell if the Winter is going to be severe by the thickness of the horses coats and there is a flower that wilts in early September if it is going to be particularly cold. It doesn't get that cold here, but I do notice a thickening of our cats coat if we are about to have a long and chilly Winter. Just wondering, Betsy At 03:40 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote: Well, yesterday was the second day in a row with no rain so the patio was dry. I put a couple of finishing touches to it, a couple of bricks to cut and fit where things weren't perfectly square. Janet and I then began sweeping the polymerized sand into the cracks. I used 2 by 4s to divide the patio into manageable sections, usually 8 by 15 inch chunks more or less, two bags about per section. Once swept back and forth and back and forth I would set up another pair of boards to move over and then dump two more bags and leave Janet to get on with that while I shook the previously done
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?
Bob, I think this answers my question. I have a Bosch driver that I like very much. I was looking at the Bosch impact driver specifically because I could exchange batts between the regular driver and the impact driver, but only if I got the smaller 800 inch pound impact driver and not the larger one. So, I just wanted to make sure that the 800 inch pounds was going to do what I need it it to do. I think it will. Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools... I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw. Actually someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my looking got together. I don't know how your moment went but I swore I could count the links on the chain as they were chewing on my finger. Seems like time stands still for just a couple seconds. Then the pain hits and there is no more amazement. Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a minimal affect on the pain. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
Well Ed, the reason you have trouble with horse power and all is because it is really apples and oranges. Basically if you keep track of the amps the motor says it draws,you'll see the more amps the more power. That's really as close as you can get to having something make sense.A 12 amp motor won't have the power of a 15 amp motor and so on. That is unless the gear ratio is different in the lower amp motor... See how silly this can get in a hurry? - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:17 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Thanks for the information. I never did, and probably never will, understand this horsepower rating stuff. I once owned a table saw that was rated at 2 horsepower and it constantly bogged down trying to cut heavier pieces of wood. At some point, I inherited a saw with a 1.5 horsepower motor and it never stalled no matter what I put through it. Both were belt drives with 10 inch blades. I never could figure out why a 2 horsepower motor would bog down cutting a piece of wood that wouldn't make a 1.5 horsepower motor even break a sweat. Years ago, my company decided that all non-electrical engineers (software, mechanical, optical, etc) needed a basic understanding of electricity and electrical concepts. They put all of us through six weeks of training using an extensive collection of video recorded classes. Many things made a great deal of sense after the class but, after not using most of the information for years, most of what I learned has faded into oblivion. Maybe it's time to haul out my recordings of the classes again and take a refresher course. But, being electron and proton challenged, I'm sure I'll be writing the list with all manner of electrical related questions. And yeah, before some smart ass on the list points it out, I do know that there are such things as neutrons. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question I don't know really how you would do that without very specialized equipment but it really doesn't matter much so long as it performs to your requirements. There quite probably is a measure which can be said to produce a horsepower of that rating at least briefly and the manufacturer could probably produce that proof or definition but for practical purposes a horse and a half is about all you can get out of a 110 volt 15 amp circuit. My Delta 18 inch drum sander and my compressor will both trip a 15 amp breaker. The sander is rated at 1.5 HP but I have to watch not to feed it too fast and allow it to bog down. I always knew that my compressor over rated it's horsepower but it too will trip it's own 15 amp breaker I believe on start-up. Not all of the time, I often forget to turn it off and it will cycle for a couple of days then apparently get fed-up and shut itself off for me. I suppose that ideally one would power a treadmill with foot power. I don't much like treadmills for that reason and really they should only need to produce enough power to move the belt along. Big powerful motors really only exercise the power company turbines. The article I read on Wikipedia on horsepower indicated that a human can produce the 550 foot pounds only very briefly. a 3 horsepower treadmill presumably can do 1650 foot pounds indefinitely. What for? - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 8:47 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless you are running an elephant or you have quite
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?
As far as I'm concerned, if it says Bosch on it, it's a good tool. My Dewalt says 1150 inch pounds I think. Do I need that much? Never have. I took a tire off with it the first weekend I had it. But That is abuse normally. I have 3 half inch impact guns for tires and I can snap a lug bolt with any one of them... So for what you will be doing, you'll be fine. Worst case is you'll take 2 seconds longer to drive a screw home. But at least your arm won't fall asleep from the weight of the tool! - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 12:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough? Bob, I think this answers my question. I have a Bosch driver that I like very much. I was looking at the Bosch impact driver specifically because I could exchange batts between the regular driver and the impact driver, but only if I got the smaller 800 inch pound impact driver and not the larger one. So, I just wanted to make sure that the 800 inch pounds was going to do what I need it it to do. I think it will. Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
hey bob don't forget adding in pully sizes too. jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint
Aloha Betsy A good bit of research here, sounds like everyone should be painting their homes with this Paint. Thanks Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney Sent: Monday, 12 October 2009 12:38 AM To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint Aloha everyone, I wrote earlier wondering if anyone knew anything about this cool-wall paint, and we all kind of agreed that it sounded like snake oil. However, now that my friend has painted her house with this paint, I'm beginning to believe that it really does keep things cooler. Surprisingly, just touching the outside wall that had the paint applied and then touching another area that was not painted, I could literally feel that the cool-wall painted area was noticeably cooler. She also used it on her deck and in the hottest part of the day, I didn't wish I had foot covers on. Anyway, I send the following item describing the product FYI. Betsy Building News - 2006 Textured Coatings Innovative Coating System Keeps Homes Cooler For every homeowner who has struggled to find ways to hold down the cost of air conditioning without sacrificing comfort, recent tests by the U.S. Department of Energy offer promising results. Recently completed tests at the Oak Ridge National Laboratory showed that an innovative exterior coating system from Textured Coatings of America Inc. can reduce a typical home's air-conditioning costs by over 20 percent by actually keeping the home's interior cooler. The tests conducted for over a year measured the performance of TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET Cool WallT premium coatings. The DOE tests found that not only did the product's revolutionary heat reflective finish significantly reduce exterior wall temperatures, it also dramatically lowered interior temperatures on cement block, stucco and wood-frame homes, according to Jay Haines, TCA's president and chief executive officer. The DOE tests confirmed that the Cool WallT coating reduced exterior wall temperatures by as much as 40 degrees Fahrenheit when compared to traditional paints and coatings in many colors, said Haines. What's more important is that the test data showed that the Cool Wall coating would reduce the interior temperatures as well, and could lower the costs of cooling a typical 1,100-square-foot ranch-style home by as much as 21.9 percent depending on the color chosen, substrate type and climatic conditions. TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET Cool WallT coatings take advantage of the same heat reflective technology used by the military to reduce the heat signature of planes and other vehicles, Haines explained. Since the increase in reflectivity occurs primarily in the infrared spectrum, it is invisible to the naked eye. Yet although the Cool WallT colors may look the same as a traditional finish, the DOE tests show that, on average, they are up to 100 percent more reflective than the conventional technologies. A dark-colored home absorbs as much as 90 percent of the solar radiation that strikes it, and even white walls can absorb solar radiation, Haines noted. By reflecting this infrared radiation rather than absorbing it, the Cool WallT coatings dramatically reduce the load on a home's air-conditioning system. And because they are reflective, they are less prone to fading - even dark colors stay darker longer than conventional paint technologies. The most extensive DOE tests were conducted at the Oak Ridge test site in Tennessee, with additional tests conducted at actual homes in Jacksonville, Fla., and Phoenix, Ariz. Obviously, the savings vary depending on the home's location, as well as its construction type, its orientation to the sun, surrounding shade features and so forth, said Haines. But the DOE tests confirmed a measurable and significant difference in the energy required to cool the home in all instances. In addition to energy savings, the tests showed that infrared reflective coatings are significantly more fade resistant, even in darker colors, Haines said. The coatings also can reduce stress or building fatigue by minimizing the expansion and contraction of the home's exterior that occurs during extreme fluctuations in temperature. The reflective coatings can also reduce the heat island effect that causes excessive energy consumption in urban areas. TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET coatings are 10 times thicker on average than ordinary paint, and can withstand an average of 40 years of exterior exposure. After being professionally applied, the product is warranted for as long as the homeowner owns the home. The SUPER.COTET finish can last for decades without flaking, peeling, or chipping, said Haines. The multi-step process to apply the finish virtually eliminates the need for scraping, sanding, painting and repainting, saving homeowners thousands of dollars in maintenance expense over the life of the home -
Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
Bob, the bit spun too fast for me to count the dots. My finger is healed to the point that I can leave it open to the air. earlier, Bob Kennedy, wrote: You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools... I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw. Actually someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my looking got together. I don't know how your moment went but I swore I could count the links on the chain as they were chewing on my finger. Seems like time stands still for just a couple seconds. Then the pain hits and there is no more amazement. Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a minimal affect on the pain. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] conclusion to garage door opener problem
Ok, I had a friend come over to mess with the garagedoor. He messed with it yesterday and couldn't figure it out. So he went and bought new sensors, and we replaced a battery in an opener because I think it was about dead. Then while he was gone to watch the game, I went up in the attick to look at the wires which were coming through a hole in the ceiling to the unit, because there's one down on the unit which is just hanging there, but I can't see any place it might hook up. I found the wires, and lost my wife's broom which I was using as a sort of swing-around cane as I crawled across the joists. I couldn't find any loose wires or anything which might hook to that loose one down below. But my friend came back and he started taking the sensor off the wall, to put on the new ones, and he said, I just wonder if maybe the conection was just loose. So he messed with it for a while, and turns out, that was the only problem. I get to keep the old sensors for now and they work for now. Yay! And it just dawned on me that I probably need to change out of these clothes as they are probably covered with insolation. Matt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
yeah worry about the door as if it has any concern. No not the guy with the blood coming out. Okaay, just wait till that oopsie breaks a nail against my precious (whatever it is material goods) haha. Oh well, dudn't matter. On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote: What is it about women, wives in particular. I mean, here you are, trying to do your level best, and while doing that, you do injury to yourself which causes your life's blood to drip or flow out of your wound. Instead of offerring kindness, sympathy, and aid, the wife is primarily concerned with something so superficial as a little bloodstain. And, speaking of new, we're having a new furnace and airconditioning unit installed today. It's been a very painful process financially, and once again, I've learned how arbitrary and capricious government and government regulated utilities can be in terms of defining what does and does not qualify for a tax or other credit. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu Date: Friday, October 9, 2009 1:48 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door. Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have a new one. Almost. Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a stupid heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it somewhere, and put it back in the winter. Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just pull the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's place. It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual closers. Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick and simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so hard to understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask for. i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the standards so had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick mould, but my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached to a secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting inside the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould. At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding. So, I ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather than the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a lot of work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I swear they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for calking, it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks. The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times. You had to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The edge is metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and was drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door, helping to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed forward and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually came out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door. I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being stupid and trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the framing members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in the other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It left just a little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip it off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I caught the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more blood to be cleaned up. The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still need to put the closers on. One more task down, 77 to go. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
and which one of us didn't start somewhere in the plaster and lathe wall expecting to cut out for a new outlet, by hand, and find that the wiggling lathe made a really big hole while the wood was barely cut. First time I was 18 and had to use a piece of paneling. The second time I was luckier, as hahahaha they make wall plates for dummies like me who find the plaster likes to run. On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote: Huh, well don't feel bad, I've done many stupid things such as that. I even once thought I could cut a piece of PVC pipe with an electric reciprocating saw. Needless to say the ability to drive a saw with one hand while holding a round pipe in the other can only end in disaster and that is exactly what happen. I ended up with the saw skating over the surface of the pipe and across my knuckles. Yeah and should I add that I'm such a genius that this was the same day I was installing two new sump pumps and after cutting out the pipe for the old one, I went to remove it, but neglected to unplug it first. So, for good measure I accidentally activated the pump and covered myself and the general area with dirty, nasty sump pit water. Yeah, I'm good aren't I? Give me time, I'm sure there are a number of really bright things I have done. So, hey, your doing just fine and keep up the good work. Oh and when your done, I got a few projects down here if you lack for something to do. grin. On Oct 9, 2009, at 2:48 PM, Dan Rossi wrote: Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have a new one. Almost. Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a stupid heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it somewhere, and put it back in the winter. Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just pull the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's place. It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual closers. Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick and simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so hard to understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask for. i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the standards so had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick mould, but my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached to a secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting inside the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould. At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding. So, I ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather than the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a lot of work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I swear they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for calking, it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks. The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times. You had to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The edge is metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and was drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door, helping to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed forward and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually came out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door. I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being stupid and trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the framing members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in the other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It left just a little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip it off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I caught the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more blood to be cleaned up. The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still need to put the closers on. One more task down, 77 to go. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
you've been hanging out with too many tough guys to use our arguments back at us! Right on! On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Jennifer Jackson wrote: Blood stains can seriously drop your property value. *smile* Besides, you are the same guys who used to say something about wanting to be the man who walked 500 miles and then walked 500 more, just to be the man who walked a 1000 miles for you and dropped down at your door. What is a little blood compared to that kind of devotion. *smile* Jennifer - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Cc: Blind Handyman List Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 1:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door. What is it about women, wives in particular. I mean, here you are, trying to do your level best, and while doing that, you do injury to yourself which causes your life's blood to drip or flow out of your wound. Instead of offerring kindness, sympathy, and aid, the wife is primarily concerned with something so superficial as a little bloodstain. And, speaking of new, we're having a new furnace and airconditioning unit installed today. It's been a very painful process financially, and once again, I've learned how arbitrary and capricious government and government regulated utilities can be in terms of defining what does and does not qualify for a tax or other credit. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu Date: Friday, October 9, 2009 1:48 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door. Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have a new one. Almost. Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a stupid heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it somewhere, and put it back in the winter. Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just pull the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's place. It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual closers. Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick and simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so hard to understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask for. i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the standards so had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick mould, but my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached to a secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting inside the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould. At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding. So, I ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather than the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a lot of work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I swear they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for calking, it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks. The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times. You had to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The edge is metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and was drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door, helping to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed forward and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually came out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door. I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being stupid and trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the framing members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in the other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It left just a little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip it off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I caught the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more blood to be cleaned up. The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still need to put the closers on. One more task down, 77 to go. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping and a Finishing Touch
as I may have missed where on the bass it is; if it's on the neck you may want to go even farther like 1500 or 1600 grit. No big deal it's about 3 pages to the number it takes of the 100. So after the 100 you use a little more. Makes a nicer surface. But if it's somewhere like the body or the wing, no big deal. On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote: Hi Speiro, I think I'll take a shot perhaps at fixing it myself. I can't possibly screw it up any worse than it is and honestly after talking to a gent who really knows his stuff, he told me just buy the black coating material (need to verify I have the right stuff) and just paint it on a little at a time until it's just a bit higher than the surrounding area, let harden for a month, and then sand down with 800 or 1000 grit paper and call it a day. Maybe this bass would be worth some day, but I'll be quite dead by then and won't give a tinkers damn. So, might as well just give it a go myself and then take it in if I can't get it just right. After all, it'll never be perfect no matter what unless it was completely stripped and redone. tnx, On Oct 9, 2009, at 11:32 PM, Spiro wrote: considering all that you said; if it were one of mine (My Steinberger full body which they could only match the blue at the factory) I'd leave it to the best shop in town. But if it were a more common, (as in available, not lesser quality) I might rub it with a fine grit till just but the last bit of smooth was gone, and see if that takes the problem area down. Make a few recordings with the natural neck (assuming that is where the problem is, take down just that area) and see if it makes any difference. Then take it to be touched up and request their advice of finishes for sound. Or, take it to them, ask them to take just the finish down, and take it back home to record it. No that you can't hear it from an amp session, but recording saves it as well in case you want to take it back to the previous, you'll have the event. On Thu, 8 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote: You are correct TOm that it would decrease the value, but to be perfectly honest, it isn't worth much now any way. When I purchased it, I paid $900 or so for it. If I were to sell it today, it would fetch a price of around $500 to $600 and with the damage fixed and only if it was so fixed you wouldn't notice it, that may not affect the price to much. Point is I have nothing to loose since I have no plans to ever sell it. At this point a new one would actually cost me $1,500 since Fender raised their price a good deal, but doesn't seem to affect the resale value much. You do however make a good point about the impact on the resale. Of course I probably wouldn't fix it myself. I'd have it done properly, but I would on the other hand strip it down myself and do something different. On Oct 6, 2009, at 8:06 PM, Tom Hodges wrote: I would take it to the professionals to fix as any home repair will decrease the value of it. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Howell Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 1:17 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping and a Finishing Touch Well I asked my wife about this, but nearly got slapped, so thought I should ask you guys and oh yeah gals as well. Okay, just kidding, but grabbed your attention didn't I? So, I have a Fender Jazz bass that for some inexplicable reason developed a crack in the coating which is some type of urithane (spelled incorrectly of course) and I did not realize this until something snagged on my shirt and pulled a good piece of the material off the edge. So, now I'm faced with two options. One is take it to the shop to have this problem repaired since they have the experience, tools, and materials to do the job right. I'm not honestly sure what the stuff is that they put on there at the factory. The other option is to finish what has already started and remove all that stuff. Then i'd have an instrument I could do a hand-rubbed finish on, restain, or simply apply a much thinner coat of urithane or some protective material. The thought process is that an unfinished instrument will have a slightly or perhaps a more noticeable difference in tone. The whole point of this message is then to ask what would be the best way to remove the remaining material if I chose to do so. Would I start with a really heavy grit paper and then begin to work to a finer paper? Assuming I do all of this, and I don't damage the stain already on the instrument, what type of material would be best for I believe it is Swamp Ash and might be something else in there like Alder, but in any case any thoughts would be appreciated. The idea of a natural finish is appealing and at this point it has a tobacco sunburst finish on it, so time to decide. I do like the sunburst finish, but the urithane can hide the
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
My favorite storm door has the louvered glass from knee to head high. I loved it as I could keep it open during hot rain storms without any worry. The panes were only about 4 inches. So little rain ever got in. The mechanism is broken and I'm many years sad without it. We grab the glass and tilt from outside now. On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Lee A. Stone wrote: Dan, do you know how many unemployed line carpenters are out there? You kids are all alike, in a hurry always in a hurry. well the geese are moving so you still have time. geeez. I think our bst storm door was on a very very old house and it was a wooden door and yes it had a insert. with the stanley wings n it. you take out the screen and put inthe pane window section. . so where did you get your door home depot or lowes? Lee On Fri, Oct 09, 2009 at 02:48:09PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote: Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have a new one. Almost. Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a stupid heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it somewhere, and put it back in the winter. Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just pull the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's place. It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual closers. Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick and simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so hard to understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask for. i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the standards so had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick mould, but my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached to a secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting inside the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould. At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding. So, I ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather than the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a lot of work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I swear they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for calking, it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks. The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times. You had to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The edge is metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and was drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door, helping to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed forward and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually came out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door. I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being stupid and trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the framing members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in the other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It left just a little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip it off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I caught the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more blood to be cleaned up. The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still need to put the closers on. One more task down, 77 to go. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 -- Far back in the mists of ancient time, in the great and glorious days of the former Galactic Empire, life was wild, rich and largely tax free. Mighty starships plied their way between exotic suns, seeking adventure and reward among the furthest reaches of Galactic space. In those days, spirits were brave, the stakes were high, men were real men, women were real women and small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri were real small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri. And all dared to brave unknown terrors, to do mighty deeds, to boldly split infinitives that no man had split before -- and thus was the Empire forged. -- Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] new storm door
You were the first person I ever heard mention these Lenny. They still sound great. Do they have nay that you remember, which have really large open glass areas, so when they are opened will have as much area, (say hip to head) of open screen? On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote: I also replaced the old storm doors with self storing glass and screens. The glass on the old doors was heavy and I had to carry it to the third floor for safe storing. Now in the spring when I took out the glass and installed the screens it would always get cold and the opposite in the fall. Now if there is a warm day just lower the glass. I purchased both doors at Lowes' and they had an unadvertised special. For the weekend only any purchase there was a $60 installed price. This included delivery and removal of the old door. That offer was too hard to pass. That was about three years ago. I noticed that the hinges on the back door started to screech. A shot of one lube fixed that problem. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.
Animals and wooly worms aren't any better at predicting the weather than we are. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:20 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects. Hi Betsy, This has been a most unusual summer. Rain and cool until September really with the exception of a day or two most weeks. The gardens didn't do well although my roses have really taken off since the end of September, there just wasn't enough sustained heat. September was remarkably good, I laid a lot of stone and had a lot laid for me. Since the last couple of days in September though we keep getting fine drizzle and cold conditions though not much below normal average temperatures, the wet though is interfering. There are a lot of folk legends about predicting the severity of winter, the depth of snow and so on, I don't believe much of it. Certain wasps or bees are said to build their nests higher when deep snow is expected, I rather doubt that, seems to me they would want the insulation of the snow to help the hives survive. Certainly the animals put on heavier coats most of them in the winter but they do that every winter. There have been a lot of geese in the air but they are all gone now, or at least I haven't heard them going over for the past two weeks and I don't hear the hunters out. Moose season opened in this area yesterday so the roads are full of hunters and trailers. Black bears are quite a nuisance this year but that probably has more to do with a late berry season and since canceling the spring bear hunt their number is increasing so they get bolder looking for food. Getting snow cover this time of year is not all that unusual, maybe just a little early but I have often frozen fingers planting fall bulbs because the nurseries won't send them out that couple of weeks early. Janet and I figure the useful outdoor season for us ends just about now, Canadian Thanks Giving and doesn't really begin again before the first week in May. I am thinking next year when I retire I'll close off the water and drain the pipes for about the first of November and go find somewhere in the sun to spend the time until May. Usually once we hit the first week in May things just explode and you need to be here to keep on top of the vegetation. Besides, I won't have all my work done before next winter. Some time after that I hope to unload this old shack for a reasonable amount of money to be able to relocate. Don't know if that answered any of your questions directly but I hope so. We had some friends come along with a utility trailer on Thursday to remove loads of accumulated detritus of the building projects around here. Friday night while waiting for the patio to dry thoroughly Janet and I move a few of the left over bricks onto a pallet in the lane just to have in case repairs are needed. Next decent weather I guess I'll have to cut back those roses for the winter and chip all that debris. Usually I also work about 30 bags of composted manure into the flower beds particularly to have it present for the bulbs when they emerge in the spring. The roses and other gardens can wait for the spring, maybe I'll just buy enough for the front and the lily gardens, maybe I can get Janet to do that some dry day even if I am at work. Doing it all is something I should help her with as the bags get pretty heavy really fast. The gardening got a little ahead of me this year with all the extra work but I am getting to look like an aging miniature Adonis GRIN. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects. Aloha Dale, Everytime I read the posts about your and Dan's project updates, I have sore muscles for at least a week, grin... Hearing about snow is astonishing to me as we have had about ten days of the hottest, most humid weather we had in months. I am wondering if there are signs of whether you're likely to have a very cold or mild Winter like there are in such places as Reno, Navada, where my parents live. Mom tells me that they can tell if the Winter is going to be severe by the thickness of the horses coats and there is a flower that wilts in early September if it is going to be particularly cold. It doesn't get that cold here, but I do notice a thickening of our cats coat if we are about to have a long and chilly Winter. Just wondering, Betsy At 03:40 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
I remember wondering if the saber or jig saw blade had gotten to where I wanted to stop. So I got under the wood and looked, and it was moving slowly. So it grabbed a fingertip and tried to drag it through the wood, about 6 times. Yeah, fun. I remember my reading finger see-ing a drill bit dance fancy across some wood and try to scoop out the pad of my left middle finger. My daighter thinks it's a tatoo of her first initial C. On Sun, 11 Oct 2009, Bob Kennedy wrote: You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools... I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw. Actually someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my looking got together. I don't know how your moment went but I swore I could count the links on the chain as they were chewing on my finger. Seems like time stands still for just a couple seconds. Then the pain hits and there is no more amazement. Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a minimal affect on the pain. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
