[BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] The gathering.
Mostly blind but not all, Phil. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
While you won't go far wrong with a shallow 8th inch depth of cut this is dependent on a few variables. The power of the router. I have a big old triton which will drive an inch diameter bit through an 8th inch cut in the hardest wood without noticing it. The size of the bit of course. The cross sectional area increases following the inverse square law so, a half inch bit has four times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit and a 1 inch bit is 16 times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit. Similarly, as the outer diameter increases so the distance or the amount of cutting surface which passes a particular point increases.A one inch bit has nearly three inches of distance around the outside, at 30 thousand revolutions per minute that is 90 thousand inches a minute or about 24 inches a second compared with a quarter inch bit which will present more like 6 inches a second.This has not only resistance implications but heat generations and other concerns. Then there is the shaft size. A half inch shaft will take a lot more load than a quarter inch shaft, remember here the inverse square law. I am unaware of any safety recommendations for depth of bit cut probably because of these variables and probably several others I haven't thought of. Use load as your guide. You can probably make quarter inch depth passes or even a little more but judge your speed and depth by how the motor pulls down.Generally the bigger the bit the slower your speed both of progress and RPM should be if you have the luxury of variable speed. I find it helpful to blow out the cut between adjustments, be a little careful though, sometimes those cuttings are smoking. They can pack nearly as tight as the wood you are cutting and it all adds resistance to the second and subsequent passes. Hope this is helpful. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector
Two things. A friend bought a security system from Home Depot but that was about four years ago and I don't know if they carry them any more. It had a motion sensing camera and a VCR recorder. When someone went in front of the camera it automatically turned on the recorder and ran for about a minute, but if there was continuing movement, it would keep running. Secondly, no matter what type of motion sensor you use, there is always the problem outside of having the wind blowing tree branches or shrubs, etc. and setting it off. If this happens often, you start to ignore it. Once you start ignoring it because you think it is a tree branch, you might as well not even have one. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Hello Betsy, I thought of putting one of those alarms that have a pull pin but decided against it. Once I'm in bed, I wouldn't want to get up and turn it off. With a 300 watt light being turned on by a motion detector or heat sensor and lighting that area like it was day time I think it would scare the hell out of a thief. It would also be nice to get the person on camera. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney braill...@hawaii.rr.com mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Aloha Brice, How about putting some sort of an alarm on it so if the can is moved it will squeal. Now that aluminum cans are worth money, I suspect that people wander around looking for them. Betsy At 01:30 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote: Can you believe this. We move into a senior citizen mobile home park in December. I had a regular trash can that I saved our aluminum cans that I always smash. Well last week, I went outside to dump some and couldn't fine the trash can. Some lousy sum bitch stole the trash can and all. Now I need some ideas. I want something like a motion detector that will not only light up the area, but also start a cam recorder or the likes. It had to be someone from outside the park that did this as I found out others had there cans stolen. __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking In The Dark List
send a blank email to cookinginthedark-requ...@acbradio.org and in the subject line, put subscribe. Steve Stewart C n D moderator From: Edward Przybylek Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:49 PM To: BlindHandyMan Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking In The Dark List Hi all, I've seen the Cooking In The Dark list mentioned here a few times. Does anyone know the address used to subscribe to the list? Yeah, that's right. I do get my hands dirty in the kitchen once in a while. Thanks. Take care, Ed Przybylek [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector
Well there will be no way a tree branch would set it off. My mobile home has a covered car port that goes the length of the mobile home it's self. plus I have a tough shed at the end of the car port that's half under the awning. This is where I'd like to set up some kind of security system. This way I'd get full security of the car, the patio and anyone trying to get into my shed. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:58 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Two things. A friend bought a security system from Home Depot but that was about four years ago and I don't know if they carry them any more. It had a motion sensing camera and a VCR recorder. When someone went in front of the camera it automatically turned on the recorder and ran for about a minute, but if there was continuing movement, it would keep running. Secondly, no matter what type of motion sensor you use, there is always the problem outside of having the wind blowing tree branches or shrubs, etc. and setting it off. If this happens often, you start to ignore it. Once you start ignoring it because you think it is a tree branch, you might as well not even have one. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Hello Betsy, I thought of putting one of those alarms that have a pull pin but decided against it. Once I'm in bed, I wouldn't want to get up and turn it off. With a 300 watt light being turned on by a motion detector or heat sensor and lighting that area like it was day time I think it would scare the hell out of a thief. It would also be nice to get the person on camera. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney braill...@hawaii.rr.com mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Aloha Brice, How about putting some sort of an alarm on it so if the can is moved it will squeal. Now that aluminum cans are worth money, I suspect that people wander around looking for them. Betsy At 01:30 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote: Can you believe this. We move into a senior citizen mobile home park in December. I had a regular trash can that I saved our aluminum cans that I always smash. Well last week, I went outside to dump some and couldn't fine the trash can. Some lousy sum bitch stole the trash can and all. Now I need some ideas. I want something like a motion detector that will not only light up the area, but also start a cam recorder or the likes. It had to be someone from outside the park that did this as I found out others had there cans stolen. __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5015 (20100410) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5015 (20100410) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Is this Snake Wood? John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:42 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
Hi, well there is a lot to comprehend in this info. I have a big new Triton router and will be using a 12 mm shafted bit,. I think that is about half inch. I can put a quarter inch Colet in for smaller bits. I do have variable speed settings. Are you saying the smaller the bit the faster the speed setting? Sorry if I am a bit thick. Thanks again for all the answers so far. Max. On 10/04/2010 22:41, Dale Leavens wrote: While you won't go far wrong with a shallow 8th inch depth of cut this is dependent on a few variables. The power of the router. I have a big old triton which will drive an inch diameter bit through an 8th inch cut in the hardest wood without noticing it. The size of the bit of course. The cross sectional area increases following the inverse square law so, a half inch bit has four times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit and a 1 inch bit is 16 times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit. Similarly, as the outer diameter increases so the distance or the amount of cutting surface which passes a particular point increases.A one inch bit has nearly three inches of distance around the outside, at 30 thousand revolutions per minute that is 90 thousand inches a minute or about 24 inches a second compared with a quarter inch bit which will present more like 6 inches a second.This has not only resistance implications but heat generations and other concerns. Then there is the shaft size. A half inch shaft will take a lot more load than a quarter inch shaft, remember here the inverse square law. I am unaware of any safety recommendations for depth of bit cut probably because of these variables and probably several others I haven't thought of. Use load as your guide. You can probably make quarter inch depth passes or even a little more but judge your speed and depth by how the motor pulls down.Generally the bigger the bit the slower your speed both of progress and RPM should be if you have the luxury of variable speed. I find it helpful to blow out the cut between adjustments, be a little careful though, sometimes those cuttings are smoking. They can pack nearly as tight as the wood you are cutting and it all adds resistance to the second and subsequent passes. Hope this is helpful. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
Slow down with big bits. Big shaft you can increase speed. Mostly though just listen and smell. Smoke indicates burning. this can be high speed slow progress where the cutter ends up spinning in the same place a long time creating burning heat. If this is because you can't push the router through then reduce the depth. Mostly I take pretty deep cuts because I am lazy and usually get away with it. If your router is like mine you can set three depths with the turret. This may not be quite enough for really deep mortises but for most grooves and dados I am in 3/4ths plywood and going about half depth so I make the cut in one pass, about 3/8ths deep. No doubt this is a bit aggressive for some people but a 3/4ths cutter on a half inch shaft with a 3 and a quarter horsepower router that weighs about fifteen pounds won't mind that a all. If it is struggling then just slow it down a little. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 5:53 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi, well there is a lot to comprehend in this info. I have a big new Triton router and will be using a 12 mm shafted bit,. I think that is about half inch. I can put a quarter inch Colet in for smaller bits. I do have variable speed settings. Are you saying the smaller the bit the faster the speed setting? Sorry if I am a bit thick. Thanks again for all the answers so far. Max. On 10/04/2010 22:41, Dale Leavens wrote: While you won't go far wrong with a shallow 8th inch depth of cut this is dependent on a few variables. The power of the router. I have a big old triton which will drive an inch diameter bit through an 8th inch cut in the hardest wood without noticing it. The size of the bit of course. The cross sectional area increases following the inverse square law so, a half inch bit has four times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit and a 1 inch bit is 16 times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit. Similarly, as the outer diameter increases so the distance or the amount of cutting surface which passes a particular point increases.A one inch bit has nearly three inches of distance around the outside, at 30 thousand revolutions per minute that is 90 thousand inches a minute or about 24 inches a second compared with a quarter inch bit which will present more like 6 inches a second.This has not only resistance implications but heat generations and other concerns. Then there is the shaft size. A half inch shaft will take a lot more load than a quarter inch shaft, remember here the inverse square law. I am unaware of any safety recommendations for depth of bit cut probably because of these variables and probably several others I haven't thought of. Use load as your guide. You can probably make quarter inch depth passes or even a little more but judge your speed and depth by how the motor pulls down.Generally the bigger the bit the slower your speed both of progress and RPM should be if you have the luxury of variable speed. I find it helpful to blow out the cut between adjustments, be a little careful though, sometimes those cuttings are smoking. They can pack nearly as tight as the wood you are cutting and it all adds resistance to the second and subsequent passes. Hope this is helpful. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut
Hi, now I think it is clear. My router is exactly the same wait and horsepower so I will try the same as you suggest. Thanks again. Max. On 11/04/2010 08:35, Dale Leavens wrote: Slow down with big bits. Big shaft you can increase speed. Mostly though just listen and smell. Smoke indicates burning. this can be high speed slow progress where the cutter ends up spinning in the same place a long time creating burning heat. If this is because you can't push the router through then reduce the depth. Mostly I take pretty deep cuts because I am lazy and usually get away with it. If your router is like mine you can set three depths with the turret. This may not be quite enough for really deep mortises but for most grooves and dados I am in 3/4ths plywood and going about half depth so I make the cut in one pass, about 3/8ths deep. No doubt this is a bit aggressive for some people but a 3/4ths cutter on a half inch shaft with a 3 and a quarter horsepower router that weighs about fifteen pounds won't mind that a all. If it is struggling then just slow it down a little. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 5:53 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi, well there is a lot to comprehend in this info. I have a big new Triton router and will be using a 12 mm shafted bit,. I think that is about half inch. I can put a quarter inch Colet in for smaller bits. I do have variable speed settings. Are you saying the smaller the bit the faster the speed setting? Sorry if I am a bit thick. Thanks again for all the answers so far. Max. On 10/04/2010 22:41, Dale Leavens wrote: While you won't go far wrong with a shallow 8th inch depth of cut this is dependent on a few variables. The power of the router. I have a big old triton which will drive an inch diameter bit through an 8th inch cut in the hardest wood without noticing it. The size of the bit of course. The cross sectional area increases following the inverse square law so, a half inch bit has four times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit and a 1 inch bit is 16 times the cross sectional area of a quarter inch bit. Similarly, as the outer diameter increases so the distance or the amount of cutting surface which passes a particular point increases.A one inch bit has nearly three inches of distance around the outside, at 30 thousand revolutions per minute that is 90 thousand inches a minute or about 24 inches a second compared with a quarter inch bit which will present more like 6 inches a second.This has not only resistance implications but heat generations and other concerns. Then there is the shaft size. A half inch shaft will take a lot more load than a quarter inch shaft, remember here the inverse square law. I am unaware of any safety recommendations for depth of bit cut probably because of these variables and probably several others I haven't thought of. Use load as your guide. You can probably make quarter inch depth passes or even a little more but judge your speed and depth by how the motor pulls down.Generally the bigger the bit the slower your speed both of progress and RPM should be if you have the luxury of variable speed. I find it helpful to blow out the cut between adjustments, be a little careful though, sometimes those cuttings are smoking. They can pack nearly as tight as the wood you are cutting and it all adds resistance to the second and subsequent passes. Hope this is helpful. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut If you are just making a round hole, go as deep as you want. If you are making a mortise type cut that means you have to move the wood over the bit, you can make the end cuts as deep as they need to end up. Then come back and cut no more than an eighth, of an inch, 5 millimeters over there. - Original Message - From: Agent086b To: Handyman Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 3:05 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting depth per cut Hi all, well have just purchased my first router and router table so will have many questions. For a start. If I wish to make a plunge cut, with say a 12 mm diameter bit. what is the maximum depth I should go for a first pass? I am not sure if this is explaining myself correctly, so I will wait for the responses and modify the question if necessary. Thanks as always for the great help. Max. [Non-text
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
No just very dead. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Is this Snake Wood? John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:42 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
entirelyagree. I've done the baking soda over night, letting it drip dry. It's definitely that metal smell, and nothing is coming off of the lid gasket as far as scent. So I'm on it. alka seltzer tonight if not finished, no vinegar in the house after daughter did her easter eggs. Thanks again. I knew you folks would know. What better tool is there than the industrial thermos. Coffee is also known as happy give a s. On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote: Sometimes the smells seem to get stuck to the rubber seals or the stopper and not so much the stainless steel. The other trouble is truly scrubbing them out. One should probably use a bottle brush and then there is the problem of rinsing out the smell of dish washing detergent. I have one I sometimes use when I am outside all day working. I find the best way to keep it fresh smelling is to empty it fully and rinse it a couple of times then storing it empty with the lid off open to the air so it dries thoroughly over night or what ever. Of course a glass vacuum flask is the best but the liners tend to be fragile. I broke many back when I used one going to school, a smack on a fence post or fire plug on the way by and off to the store for a replacement liner. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others, Well, thanks. I'm hoping it goes down to the metal taste of the stainless. but what's the sense of having a 24oz thermos if you can't put exotic coffee made from filtered water in it? grins On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Trouble wrote: Put some baking soda in it along with some warm water. Let it set for a few days and repeat. That should get it all out. I use that trick after leaving tea in after a fishing trip or when I let my brother use it for work and his coffee. At 06:20 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote: Try soaking it with water and a couple tablespoons of baking soda - Original Message - From: Spiro To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 17:58 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others, Hi, Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks ago. Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup. I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating. I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but thankfully to any outside project. However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell. You guys must know that smell. I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at DD) is starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine etheopean coffee from home. Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Tim trouble Verizon FIOS support tech Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance. --Sam Brown Blindeudora list owner. To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag Neptune Washer Bearing Problem
Dear Gil: You saved yourself quite a sum by doing the work yourself. I received a quote of five hundred bucks to repair our Neptune, which was one of the first ones out. Since the machine had some years on it, we elected to replace it. I understand that the Neptune was the cause of Maytag going under. That is a real shame, as Maytag was one of those names that was equivalent to long lasting high quality American made products. The company name lives on, but the products are not the same. We bought a Whirlpool with steam, and while it performs fairly well, my first wife would prefer to have a new Neptune, as she liked the old one better. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Gil Laster To: Blind Handyman Cc: jgatt...@gmail.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:24 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag Neptune Washer Bearing Problem Jim, You mentioned having replaced the control board on your Maytag Neptune washing machine and now the bearings are roaring. I have a 2002 model. The control board failed at 14-months and after some fussing Maytag relented and replaced it for me as a warranty item. The bearings began to roar at 6-years. My wife had not been very happy with the machine so thinking that I might have to buy a new washer I did some research on the Internet, bought bearings and a seal, improvised a bearing puller, and fixed it myself. My wife later admitted that she was hoping that I would fail. I had never worked on such a machine before. There was much on-the-job learning. It took me about 24-hours of effort, but I believe that I could do it again in about 4-hours. The job would have been much easier with a proper bearing puller, but I was too cheap to rent it at $80. I will write more details if you or anyone else wants to know more. - Gil Laster, Charlotte, NC [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5011 (20100408) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5016 (20100410) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
