Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions
If weeds are all you want to get rid of, it might be easier to pick up a roll of landscape fabric. This will let water pass through, but not light. It will smother weeds . You can use the Quikrete but the weeds will have to be removed first. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions Hi, Don't know if I have the name right but I know some sort of bag concrete is available for making a concrete surface. Asking for a friend who has a raised back porch and has to constantly fight weeds in the spring and summer. He and I were wondering if he pored some concrete if that would do away with his constant fight with weeds under his porch. So, what am I looking for, will it be a fix in this situation and how is it applied? Thanks for your help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something?
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
You can use a two way switch in a one way installation. Use the two connections on the one side, not the top two. The wires are hard to pull out, the screws don't make any difference to them, the screws are an alternative connection method only, many people feel more confident screwing the connections down than they do with the press-in wire connections. Just pull hard on the wires, it can help to twist the switch so that the wire rotates slightly in the hole while you pull. Grasp the wire though, don't depend on the wire holding in the box while you are pulling the switch away. These grip very tightly. This is a good thing as it makes the connection by bighting into the copper. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer
Hi Clifford, I have never used a nailer but I do know that those nailers sure take the pain out of the job. I have also seen the strip nails as the roofers used them. Cy From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 8:38 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear Cy: My Dewalt nailer uses nails that come assembled much like staples but when the strip of nails is placed upright, the nails are slanted at different angles, depending on the brand of nailer. The individual nails are very close to the single counterparts that you buy by the pound. By the way, someone asked about getting short nails started, and there are some hammers which have a slot with a magnet to hold a short nail in place so that when it is struck against the wood, it will penetrate enough to keep the nail upright. I don't know if there is a model for roofing nails, but it would make sense. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Clifford, Amen friend! For those wee small nails (aren't they called brads?) I had a gizmo which you put the brad into and then hammared the pushrod which in turn pushed the brad in. Sure was a whole lot easier on nerves and fingers. Since I am a massage therapist I am even more cautious with my poor hands and fingers. ((LOLLOLLOLLOL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 7:31 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear List Members: While I can use a hammer and nail, when it comes to those little nails, two and a half inches long or shorter, I enjoy my eighteen volt electric nailer. I can put in ten nails with it, while I would get one in with the hammer. It is wonderful when installing base board and other trim. The fingers come away much happier as well. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson Ps. The language barrier is broken much less frequently as well. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions
I see that Bob has suggested landscape fabric which could be held down with a layer of crushed rock, another often used method is black plastic. There isn't much benefit in pouring concrete over it, eventually dirt and seed will propagate in or on it and cleaning that up is a big job. You can also just spray the area with something like Roundup or Killex it is still legal most places. Several layers of news paper wetted down and then held down with some crushed rock will also work remembering that eventually some soil and seed will collect in the stone and the little beggars will return but should be easily removed or a new layer of barrier put down. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions Hi, Don't know if I have the name right but I know some sort of bag concrete is available for making a concrete surface. Asking for a friend who has a raised back porch and has to constantly fight weeds in the spring and summer. He and I were wondering if he pored some concrete if that would do away with his constant fight with weeds under his porch. So, what am I looking for, will it be a fix in this situation and how is it applied? Thanks for your help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer
I believe that is called a brad push. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Clifford, Amen friend! For those wee small nails (aren't they called brads?) I had a gizmo which you put the brad into and then hammared the pushrod which in turn pushed the brad in. Sure was a whole lot easier on nerves and fingers. Since I am a massage therapist I am even more cautious with my poor hands and fingers. ((LOLLOLLOLLOL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 7:31 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear List Members: While I can use a hammer and nail, when it comes to those little nails, two and a half inches long or shorter, I enjoy my eighteen volt electric nailer. I can put in ten nails with it, while I would get one in with the hammer. It is wonderful when installing base board and other trim. The fingers come away much happier as well. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson Ps. The language barrier is broken much less frequently as well. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Brad push
Hi Dale, Yes, you are correct and it is a life (finger) saver when working with those dlamed wee, tiny, little brads. Sure is handy when working with small, thin boxes. Cy From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:59 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer I believe that is called a brad push. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Clifford, Amen friend! For those wee small nails (aren't they called brads?) I had a gizmo which you put the brad into and then hammared the pushrod which in turn pushed the brad in. Sure was a whole lot easier on nerves and fingers. Since I am a massage therapist I am even more cautious with my poor hands and fingers. ((LOLLOLLOLLOL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 7:31 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear List Members: While I can use a hammer and nail, when it comes to those little nails, two and a half inches long or shorter, I enjoy my eighteen volt electric nailer. I can put in ten nails with it, while I would get one in with the hammer. It is wonderful when installing base board and other trim. The fingers come away much happier as well. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson Ps. The language barrier is broken much less frequently as well. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
Dale, the next time you get one of those switches in your hand examine it carefully. There are small indentations near the hole where the wire is pushed in. With a small screwdriver push on these indentations and the wire should release. I did not get a chance to toy with it myself however, when the electrician relocated the kitchen light switch he popped the switch out in a few seconds. I asked how he got the wires out that fast and he told me about the releases. -- From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:38 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? You can use a two way switch in a one way installation. Use the two connections on the one side, not the top two. The wires are hard to pull out, the screws don't make any difference to them, the screws are an alternative connection method only, many people feel more confident screwing the connections down than they do with the press-in wire connections. Just pull hard on the wires, it can help to twist the switch so that the wire rotates slightly in the hole while you pull. Grasp the wire though, don't depend on the wire holding in the box while you are pulling the switch away. These grip very tightly. This is a good thing as it makes the connection by bighting into the copper. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
Hi thanks for that tip. So ok can you tell me the difference between a 1 way and three way switch? The one way switch has two wholes in the back correct? So if thats the case why would you need a three way switch? Is that so you can wire another switch to it or something? Or is it a ground connection? On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: You can use a two way switch in a one way installation. Use the two connections on the one side, not the top two. The wires are hard to pull out, the screws don't make any difference to them, the screws are an alternative connection method only, many people feel more confident screwing the connections down than they do with the press-in wire connections. Just pull hard on the wires, it can help to twist the switch so that the wire rotates slightly in the hole while you pull. Grasp the wire though, don't depend on the wire holding in the box while you are pulling the switch away. These grip very tightly. This is a good thing as it makes the connection by bighting into the copper. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
Good point, Not all seem to have those slots though. Maybe the newer ones do it would make sense. I never thought of them and I have never actually used them either. I do have a thin driver which should work. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Dale, the next time you get one of those switches in your hand examine it carefully. There are small indentations near the hole where the wire is pushed in. With a small screwdriver push on these indentations and the wire should release. I did not get a chance to toy with it myself however, when the electrician relocated the kitchen light switch he popped the switch out in a few seconds. I asked how he got the wires out that fast and he told me about the releases. -- From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:38 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? You can use a two way switch in a one way installation. Use the two connections on the one side, not the top two. The wires are hard to pull out, the screws don't make any difference to them, the screws are an alternative connection method only, many people feel more confident screwing the connections down than they do with the press-in wire connections. Just pull hard on the wires, it can help to twist the switch so that the wire rotates slightly in the hole while you pull. Grasp the wire though, don't depend on the wire holding in the box while you are pulling the switch away. These grip very tightly. This is a good thing as it makes the connection by bighting into the copper. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
Definitely not a ground connection. A three way switch is used in conjunction with another for situations where you wire two switches for the same device, a switch at the top and bottom of the stairs for example. You need a three core conductor and special wiring configuration to make it work. You would really be better off using the correct switch. Dale Leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:07 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hi thanks for that tip. So ok can you tell me the difference between a 1 way and three way switch? The one way switch has two wholes in the back correct? So if thats the case why would you need a three way switch? Is that so you can wire another switch to it or something? Or is it a ground connection? On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: You can use a two way switch in a one way installation. Use the two connections on the one side, not the top two. The wires are hard to pull out, the screws don't make any difference to them, the screws are an alternative connection method only, many people feel more confident screwing the connections down than they do with the press-in wire connections. Just pull hard on the wires, it can help to twist the switch so that the wire rotates slightly in the hole while you pull. Grasp the wire though, don't depend on the wire holding in the box while you are pulling the switch away. These grip very tightly. This is a good thing as it makes the connection by bighting into the copper. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing light switch question?
Lenny is quite correct, but keep in mind that those Release Slots require a relatively fine instrument to engage them. As for using the 3-Pole switch for a single circuit, certainly you can use such a switch in that application but as stated by an earlier reply you need to make certain you use the neutral terminal and not both hot terminals. If you fail to use the neutral terminal that won't cause any danger, it just simply will not turn your lights on because the circuit will always be open (not complete). Also, the 3-Pole switch is somewhat more costly than a single pole switch. Now, that added cost is probably negligible considering the potential expense of going back to the hardware store - that's entirely your call. I know that whenever I would go back to the hardware store to save a buck or two I'd always manage to buy something else I really didn't need. ;-) Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!
RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?
Hey Dale, Thanks so much for the tap by tap instructions! You are SO right! It does matter what hammer is used for which task. Thanks for respecting us females. I remember in school, I was not allowed, in public school to take Woodshop or Cooking because of the fear of teachers. I never really got much training and still I love the do-it-yourself projects (not nearly as ambitious as yours). Keep the good tips coming. Jo Taliaferro From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 8:14 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? Dear Dale: Your description is dead on with regard to the method I employ. I found out that I can really get with the program when driving in fifty penny nails using a 28 ounce framing hammer. Those little finishing nails are the ones that give me the most difficulty. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? I built a three story 16 by 32 foot addition to this house several years ago now driving each and every nail by hand the old fashioned way with a hammer. It is a skill but it helps to learn how to do it correctly. I often listen to people driving nails as I walk about town and I can hear who has got it and who does not. At the risk of sounding sexist, and I am unashamedly sexist though not in the way implied, my observation is that most females and many children do not employ a hammer correctly. some of this is probably uncertainty about strength or the strength required but I expect it is mostly a matter of training and confidence. Intuitively it seems that one would be more accurate at hitting a nail when holding the hammer near the head and using the rest of the handle as a sort of balancing lever. Actually this is incorrect. You may like to choke up on the hammer for starting a nail but even that isn't all that effective. Here is how I do it. Grasp the hammer back toward the far end of the handle. Place the nail with the other hand, I use the right for striking and the left for setting the nail. I hold the nail between the index finger and thumb unless it is one of those God forsaken roofing nail or a very little finishing nail in which case I usually set it between my index and long fingers. I raise the hammer and gently tap the head of the nail as a targeting strike, which if successful I follow with a firmer stroke, creating a sort of tap tap tap tap tap tap rhythm. When starting this is usually only required a couple of times until the nail is well enough set. I then withdraw the left hand resting it near the nail and reaching across with the index finger to touch the nail while I withdraw the hammer and do a target tap from a longer distance with my finger present, then withdraw the finger and hammer and strike the nail as strongly as I like again with that tap bang tap bang tap bang rhythm. Well, that is the technique, in actual practice I don't do nearly so much of the tap bang rhythm now as I once did though I probably do when I have not been laying a lot of nails in the recent past. the real trick though is not to choke up on the hammer. You will drive a lot more nails a lot faster and with a lot less energy and actually your aim and direction of the forces to drive the nail are far more accurate. You will bend far fewer nails and use far less effort as well. There are a couple of builders around town who, when they have new helpers with them and see me passing their work site will call me over to show how I can drive nails. I generally get a coffee and some information about their project for the price of driving half a dozen nails which seems to have impressed them enough to prove to their helpers I can do it. I suppose it comes back to the difficulties some people have in understanding how anything can be done without sight. Just now I am disassembling a cement breeze block wall with a masonry chisel and a 4 lb. mallet and a 10 lb. sledge. I wish I could find an accurate way of targeting that sledge! I may have to rent a jack hammer again. I filled the block with cement when I laid the wall nearly 20 years ago and it turns out I also put some rebar in some of the cavities. I had forgotten doing that! Hope this is helpful Dale leavens. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?
OK Jo, About the only reason I can think of for why girls don't tend to use a hammer well is the same reason they do a lot of things somewhat differently and that is training. There can be some strength differences too of course but that is just a matter of sizing the tool appropriately. I am just a little fellow, most of the women I meet these days probably outweigh me by 20% or more and are generally bigger and should be stronger than me. few however have had the physical experience and therefore lack some of the skills which improve efficiency of function. Having said that I have known a couple of lady welders and at least one lady builder all very capable and why not? So much is a matter of training. My father was a hard rock gold miner most of his working life. He contended that the primary difference between him and a brain surgeon was training and I agree with the caveat that there is a place for talent in there somewhere too. Nevertheless, I am pleased to appreciate the differences between the sexes. The younger of my daughters could be quite skilled with woodworking tools, complicated just a little by her being a left hander. - Original Message - From: Jo Taliaferro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 9:53 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? Hey Dale, Thanks so much for the tap by tap instructions! You are SO right! It does matter what hammer is used for which task. Thanks for respecting us females. I remember in school, I was not allowed, in public school to take Woodshop or Cooking because of the fear of teachers. I never really got much training and still I love the do-it-yourself projects (not nearly as ambitious as yours). Keep the good tips coming. Jo Taliaferro From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 8:14 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? Dear Dale: Your description is dead on with regard to the method I employ. I found out that I can really get with the program when driving in fifty penny nails using a 28 ounce framing hammer. Those little finishing nails are the ones that give me the most difficulty. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? I built a three story 16 by 32 foot addition to this house several years ago now driving each and every nail by hand the old fashioned way with a hammer. It is a skill but it helps to learn how to do it correctly. I often listen to people driving nails as I walk about town and I can hear who has got it and who does not. At the risk of sounding sexist, and I am unashamedly sexist though not in the way implied, my observation is that most females and many children do not employ a hammer correctly. some of this is probably uncertainty about strength or the strength required but I expect it is mostly a matter of training and confidence. Intuitively it seems that one would be more accurate at hitting a nail when holding the hammer near the head and using the rest of the handle as a sort of balancing lever. Actually this is incorrect. You may like to choke up on the hammer for starting a nail but even that isn't all that effective. Here is how I do it. Grasp the hammer back toward the far end of the handle. Place the nail with the other hand, I use the right for striking and the left for setting the nail. I hold the nail between the index finger and thumb unless it is one of those God forsaken roofing nail or a very little finishing nail in which case I usually set it between my index and long fingers. I raise the hammer and gently tap the head of the nail as a targeting strike, which if successful I follow with a firmer stroke, creating a sort of tap tap tap tap tap tap rhythm. When starting this is usually only required a couple of times until the nail is well enough set. I then withdraw the left hand resting it near the nail and reaching across with the index finger to touch the nail while I withdraw the hammer and do a target tap from a longer distance with my finger present, then withdraw the finger and hammer and strike the nail as strongly as I like again with that tap bang tap bang tap bang rhythm. Well, that is the technique, in actual practice I don't do nearly so much of the tap bang rhythm now as I once did though I probably do when I have not been laying a lot of nails in the recent past. the real trick though is not to choke up on the hammer. You will drive a lot more nails a lot faster and with a lot less energy and actually your aim and direction of the
Re: [BlindHandyMan] the podcasts are awesome.
Kevin, been there, done that, all I can do, someone else's turn, Phil. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?
Jewel, I have found that a good pair of needle nose pliers really helps. In tight spots or just using very tiny brads, it will keep the fingers away and most of the time for me, the nails do not get bent at all. .bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?
Jewel, It is most likely the reason that you bend the nails is the way in which you described holding the hammer. When I was a kid building something I always bent the nails and held the hammer in the same way that you described. My dad watching for a while came up and moved my hand to the end of the handle. When you hold the hammer close to the head the hammer actually strikes on an an angle causing the nail to bend. When you hold it near the end of the handle the head of the hammer strikes the nail flat. For me this changed bending nails from 9 out of 10 to 1 out of 10 or so. -- From: chiliblindman bo...@ptdprolog.net Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 11:38 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in? Jewel, I have found that a good pair of needle nose pliers really helps. In tight spots or just using very tiny brads, it will keep the fingers away and most of the time for me, the nails do not get bent at all. .bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
You have gotten some good answers to your questions. Let me clear up a couple of points. You have apparently bought a three way switch. Is one of those screws on a tab off the side of the mounting strap? If not, then good. If yes you may have a single pole switch with a ground.First there is no such animal as a two way or one way switch. In the electrical trade they are single pole and three way. Electronically speaking they are single pole single throw and single pole double throw. If you choose to use the new switch use the identified terminal and one of the others. The identified or common terminal is a different color and you need sight or a ohm meter to figure out which one it is. I guess you could just hook it up and see what works and if not try another set. Someone mentioned there being a neutral screw on the switch. Sorry that is incorrect neutral terminals are only on receptacles, light fixtures and panel boxes. You may put a white wire on a switch but electrically it becomes another color and all terminals on switches are hot. They may be tied to the line or load portion of a circuit, but neither is neutral. Hope this doesn't confuse or insult anyone, I just think the correct terms need to be used to prevent confusion. Confusion is one thing that is not needed in electrical work. Ron Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 3:57 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question? Hey all, i bought a light switch today to replace one of mine in the wall and i bought a three way one instead of a one way. Now the ones that i have in the wall are a one way, or at least thats what i think there called, they have two wholes on the back where the wires go in to verses the one i bought witch has three. So can i still use the one i bought or do i have to get one like the one thats in the wall? Also when putting the light cover back on over the switches how come those dang little wholes are so hard to line up? Like i will have one screw in there and it will line up just fine then when i try to put another screw in the screw goes in at an angle. I got it back on and everything is fine but why are those wholes so hard to line up? Oh, one more thing when i was in there, i couldn't manage to get the wires lose from the switch. I unscrewed the screws that were in the sides of it and tryed to pull them out but it wasn't coming lol. How hard could i pull before i break something? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] wow so installing lightswitch question?
This may sound kind of dumb to some but, it has always worked for me. If I am in doubt as to what a switch or pot or such does, I try it with speaker audio first. With eight ohms, i mean after the transformer, you can't hurt anything or your self and then you know before using it in 1 10. Phil. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Don't know the cost, seems to me that a 30 pound pail of pre-mixed plaster is about 35 bucks but I don't remember and it would be a lot more than you would need. You can buy small pales and even boxes of powder to be mixed with water quite cheaply. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Good Grief Charlie Brown, the cost of mud has sure gone up like a rocket. I can not remember what I paid for it about 15 years ago but it was pretty cheap, something like less than $10 for a 25 or so pound container. I have also mixed a handful of the mud in with my paint to cover some irregularities in the wall and it gave me a very smooth and flawless finish. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 4:12 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Don't know the cost, seems to me that a 30 pound pail of pre-mixed plaster is about 35 bucks but I don't remember and it would be a lot more than you would need. You can buy small pales and even boxes of powder to be mixed with water quite cheaply. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net mailto:dleavens%40puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
You can also buy a sort of mesh material to help with support for the patch. Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
I just finished a big wall repair project. There is a new kind of dry wall filler. It doesn't shrink very much as it dries. It is pink when wet and turns white when dry. I know that doesn't do us much good but it should help identify it at the home center. Sue said she felt like she was frosting a cake. It looks like and has the consistency of cake frosting. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Don't know the cost, seems to me that a 30 pound pail of pre-mixed plaster is about 35 bucks but I don't remember and it would be a lot more than you would need. You can buy small pales and even boxes of powder to be mixed with water quite cheaply. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same thing? Also, a room that im in has quite a few wholes in the wall and i was wondering how do i go about fixing them? I know you can use sheetrock mud and patch them up but how exactly do you do it step by step? Do i just buy the mud if thats what its called, spread it throughout the wholes as evenly as posible, then wait for it to dry and take a piece of sandpaper and sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall? I know that after its done you have to pait over it but thats fine with me because this room needs to be repainted anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Oh, There are several different plaster like compounds with differing properties. Stuff like Polyfilla Cellulose Filler which doesn't shrink or crack and sets up harder than common spackle compound is among them. Some stick better than others, some are harder and some dry much faster than plaster. Generally though they are intended for smaller patching jobs or to repair holes where fixtures have come out of the wall. Some are even cementacious and work best when applied to brick or concrete bases. Do you know what the stuff you used is called? Thanks. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? I just finished a big wall repair project. There is a new kind of dry wall filler. It doesn't shrink very much as it dries. It is pink when wet and turns white when dry. I know that doesn't do us much good but it should help identify it at the home center. Sue said she felt like she was frosting a cake. It looks like and has the consistency of cake frosting. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Don't know the cost, seems to me that a 30 pound pail of pre-mixed plaster is about 35 bucks but I don't remember and it would be a lot more than you would need. You can buy small pales and even boxes of powder to be mixed with water quite cheaply. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot more plaster to build up and hide the stuff and I find the lump left behind unacceptable. It isn't bad along the formed edges of drywall where there is a bit of a valley but across the ends and other butt joints requires more work than I like to do. You sand smooth and paint. Hope this helps. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, ok what is the difference between dry wall and sheetrock? Or are they the same
Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall?
Sue has already gone to bed so we'll look at the container tomorrow. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:57 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Oh, There are several different plaster like compounds with differing properties. Stuff like Polyfilla Cellulose Filler which doesn't shrink or crack and sets up harder than common spackle compound is among them. Some stick better than others, some are harder and some dry much faster than plaster. Generally though they are intended for smaller patching jobs or to repair holes where fixtures have come out of the wall. Some are even cementacious and work best when applied to brick or concrete bases. Do you know what the stuff you used is called? Thanks. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? I just finished a big wall repair project. There is a new kind of dry wall filler. It doesn't shrink very much as it dries. It is pink when wet and turns white when dry. I know that doesn't do us much good but it should help identify it at the home center. Sue said she felt like she was frosting a cake. It looks like and has the consistency of cake frosting. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Don't know the cost, seems to me that a 30 pound pail of pre-mixed plaster is about 35 bucks but I don't remember and it would be a lot more than you would need. You can buy small pales and even boxes of powder to be mixed with water quite cheaply. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] knowing what your walls are made of? And filling up wholes in your wall? Hi, how much would this stuff cost? I would say tat the plaster mud would be the most expensive. On 8/25/10, Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net wrote: Drywall and jiprock or sheet rock are the same thing. Filling holes depends a little on the nature of the holes. If they don't go right through then you just spread and force the mud right over the hole. You may need to spread a thin layer of plaster and embed paper tape into it to give better strength if it is badly cracked. If the hole goes through there are a number of different methods used depending on the size of the hole. You may be able to just stuff some wadded paper in there and work plaster over it, you might work some adhesive tape to the back side of the jiprock with enough exposed sticky to hold a little paper to form a base enough to apply layers of the plaster mud allowing to dry as you build up the hole. Large holes may require you to cut a square out, screw some strips of wood onto the back side with screws through the board on the front overlapping enough to allow you to cut a filler piece and screw it into the strips of wood then apply a thin layer of plaster around the cracks and press paper tape firmly into the sticky mud before plastering over the lot including filling the screw holes. This usually takes a couple of applications because the plaster shrinks as it dries and the screw holes reappear through the first couple of applications. The paper tape is used to reinforce the cracks otherwise the shrinking plaster will form cracks which become visible. Many people now prefer the adhesive mesh tape. this is stronger but it is also thicker and I don't much like using it because it takes a lot
Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions
My friend originally put gravel down but the weeds are coming up anyway. Can the landscape fabric be placed over the existing gravel with more on top to hold it down and if so, will this finaly stop the weeds from being a nuisance? At 01:17 AM 8/25/2010, you wrote: If weeds are all you want to get rid of, it might be easier to pick up a roll of landscape fabric. This will let water pass through, but not light. It will smother weeds . You can use the Quikrete but the weeds will have to be removed first. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions Hi, Don't know if I have the name right but I know some sort of bag concrete is available for making a concrete surface. Asking for a friend who has a raised back porch and has to constantly fight weeds in the spring and summer. He and I were wondering if he pored some concrete if that would do away with his constant fight with weeds under his porch. So, what am I looking for, will it be a fix in this situation and how is it applied? Thanks for your help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions
cover with news paper but this will eventually break down, with black plastic or with landscape fabric then a layer of stones to hold it down. You could pour concrete over it if you like but that is a lot of work with little advantage and a real mess when/if it needs to come up again. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 9:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions My friend originally put gravel down but the weeds are coming up anyway. Can the landscape fabric be placed over the existing gravel with more on top to hold it down and if so, will this finaly stop the weeds from being a nuisance? At 01:17 AM 8/25/2010, you wrote: If weeds are all you want to get rid of, it might be easier to pick up a roll of landscape fabric. This will let water pass through, but not light. It will smother weeds . You can use the Quikrete but the weeds will have to be removed first. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] working with quick crete questions Hi, Don't know if I have the name right but I know some sort of bag concrete is available for making a concrete surface. Asking for a friend who has a raised back porch and has to constantly fight weeds in the spring and summer. He and I were wondering if he pored some concrete if that would do away with his constant fight with weeds under his porch. So, what am I looking for, will it be a fix in this situation and how is it applied? Thanks for your help. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
