Re: Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Punching rectangular holes in plastic

2009-03-14 Thread David Sexton
I am trying to convince plastic slates that they do, in fact, have slots 
for dymo tape. If I can, I can save quite a bit of money for my work. 
I'm a braille teacher in Hawaii.
David

NANCY M HILL wrote:
> Hi All,
> Since this thread has started, I have been wondering how big the piece of 
> plastic to be given these 1/2 x 1/8 slots is...and also am curious what it 
> would then be used for.
>
> When I have needed to make holes in something that could possibly crack, I 
> will usually reinforce the area with tape before the punching begins.  The 
> tape can then be removed  If it is sort of heavy duty, I would suggest clear 
> duct tape.
>
> Good Luck,
> Nancy
>
>
>
> girlyscr...@verizon.net 
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>   




Send any questions regarding list management to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
for more information:
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[BlindHandyMan] Punching rectangular holes in plastic

2009-03-12 Thread David Sexton
What tools would I need to punch rectangular holes into plastic? About 
1/2 inch x 1/8inch? Plastic about 1/8 inch thick. of medium softness.
David


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car

2008-08-24 Thread David Sexton
Thanks, that worked!

Agent86b wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I had the same problem to start with.
> the first address was a little incorrect the dash was left out.
> I think the address should have been
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:these-hands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> Well that worked for me anyway.
> Max.
> on 23:08 24/08/2008, David Sexton said:
>
> >The list:
> ><mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> >does not exist...
> >
> >carl wrote:
> > >
> > > if you are wanting to build a car i'd recomend geting the DVD and
> > > listening to a car is born
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: Larry Stansifer
> > > To: 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 12:56 AM
> > > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
> > >
> > > David,
> > > Subscribe to
> > 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> > > <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Most of the hard core car guys hang out over there.
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From:
> > 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > 
> [mailto:<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > > On Behalf Of David Sexton
> > > Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:26 PM
> > > To:
> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.co>
> > m <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
> > >
> > > I took a visit to the local junk yard today. Hundreds upon hundreds of
> > > cars in all states of repair. Some almost drivable, most in pieces 
> with
> > > airbags deployed.
> > > I've never been that interested in cars, but this trip through the
> > > ghosts of autos past has really got me wanting to learn about cars.
> > > Specifically, I want to rebuild a car using salvaged parts, maybe some
> > > custom wood paneling since after all I'm coming from a woodworking
> > > background.
> > > Where do I start?
> > > Are there web pages with howtos and goldmines of information. I 
> need all
> > > the info I can get about cars, their systems, anything really. I 
> suspect I
> > > have just embarked on a journey that will cost me thousands
> > > of dollars on new tools and a priceless amount of new knowledge. 
> How about
> > > car mailing lists? Any blind car people in California? David
> > >
> > > 
> > >
> > > Send any questions regarding list management to:
> > >
> > 
> <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> > > <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > >
> > 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>>http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
>  
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>
> >
> > >
> > 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>>
> > > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> > > Or
> > >
> > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>  
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>
> >
> > > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/hand

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car

2008-08-24 Thread David Sexton
Super, thanks!

Bob Kennedy wrote:
>
> Well since that's mine and Larry's group I know it exists. I'll 
> subscribe you to the group and you can unsubscribe if you don't like 
> it. Fair enough?
>
> - Original Message -
> From: David Sexton
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 9:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
>
> The list: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com> does not exist...
>
> carl wrote:
> >
> > if you are wanting to build a car i'd recomend geting the DVD and
> > listening to a car is born
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Larry Stansifer
> > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 12:56 AM
> > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
> >
> > David,
> > Subscribe to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Most of the hard core car guys hang out over there.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > On Behalf Of David Sexton
> > Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:26 PM
> > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
> >
> > I took a visit to the local junk yard today. Hundreds upon hundreds of
> > cars in all states of repair. Some almost drivable, most in pieces with
> > airbags deployed.
> > I've never been that interested in cars, but this trip through the
> > ghosts of autos past has really got me wanting to learn about cars.
> > Specifically, I want to rebuild a car using salvaged parts, maybe some
> > custom wood paneling since after all I'm coming from a woodworking
> > background.
> > Where do I start?
> > Are there web pages with howtos and goldmines of information. I need all
> > the info I can get about cars, their systems, anything really. I 
> suspect I
> > have just embarked on a journey that will cost me thousands
> > of dollars on new tools and a priceless amount of new knowledge. How 
> about
> > car mailing lists? Any blind car people in California? David
> >
> > 
> >
> > Send any questions regarding list management to:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > 
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>
>  
>
> > 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>>
> > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> > Or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>
> > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>>
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>
> > <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>>
> >
> > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various
> > List Members At The Following address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 
> <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>
> > <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 
> <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>>
> >
> > Visit the archives page at the following address
> > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
> <http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/>
> > <http://www.mail-archive.com/blin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car

2008-08-24 Thread David Sexton
The list: [EMAIL PROTECTED] does not exist...

carl wrote:
>
> if you are wanting to build a car i'd recomend geting the DVD and 
> listening to a car is born
> - Original Message -
> From: Larry Stansifer
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 12:56 AM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
>
> David,
> Subscribe to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:thesehands-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> Most of the hard core car guys hang out over there.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of David Sexton
> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:26 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car
>
> I took a visit to the local junk yard today. Hundreds upon hundreds of
> cars in all states of repair. Some almost drivable, most in pieces with
> airbags deployed.
> I've never been that interested in cars, but this trip through the
> ghosts of autos past has really got me wanting to learn about cars.
> Specifically, I want to rebuild a car using salvaged parts, maybe some
> custom wood paneling since after all I'm coming from a woodworking
> background.
> Where do I start?
> Are there web pages with howtos and goldmines of information. I need all
> the info I can get about cars, their systems, anything really. I suspect I
> have just embarked on a journey that will cost me thousands
> of dollars on new tools and a priceless amount of new knowledge. How about
> car mailing lists? Any blind car people in California? David
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p>
> age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 
> <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 
> <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
> <http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/>
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
> address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ 
> <http://www.jaws-users.com/> For a complete list
> of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
> message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo>! Groups Links
>
> -- 
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> --
>
> Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 202510467) is spam:
> Spam:
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> Not spam:
> https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=202510467&m=aa4d44c06afa&c=n 
> <https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=202510467&m=aa4d44c06afa&c=n>
> Forget vote:
> https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=202510467&m=aa4d44c06afa&c=f 
> <https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=202510467&m=aa4d44c06afa&c=f>
>
> REMEMBER: Never give out your account information, password, or other
> personal information over e-mail.
> --
> END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  


[BlindHandyMan] Building a car

2008-08-23 Thread David Sexton
I took a visit to the local junk yard today. Hundreds upon hundreds of 
cars in all states of repair. Some almost drivable, most in pieces with 
airbags deployed.
I've never been that interested in cars, but this trip through the 
ghosts of autos past has really got me wanting to learn about cars. 
Specifically, I want to rebuild a car using salvaged parts, maybe some 
custom wood paneling since after all I'm coming from a woodworking 
background.
Where do I start?
Are there web pages with howtos and goldmines of information. I need all 
the info I can get about cars, their systems, anything really.
I suspect I have just embarked on a journey that will cost me thousands 
of dollars on new tools and a priceless amount of new knowledge.
How about car mailing lists?
Any blind car people in California?
David


Re: [BlindHandyMan] wheelchair ramp

2008-08-21 Thread David Sexton
I would use a frame of 2x6 and 2/4 with 3/4 plywood for the ramp 
surface, but you can buy portable ramps for around $70.
I've written the required lengths for various slopes below
• 1:12 Slope (Or 8.3%, 5 degree incline)

* 39 foot ramp for 39 inch rise
* The ADA recommended slope for commercial and public access ramps.
* Works for most manual chair users unassisted.

• 1:8 Slope (Or 12.5%, 7 degree incline)
26 foot for 39 inch rise

* Most unassisted manual chair users can use on short ramps.

• 2:12 Slope (Or 16.7%, 9.5 degree incline)

* 19.5 foot ramp for 39 inch rise
* OK for most portable ramps.
* An able assistant required for those unable to power themselves.

  OK for strong, unassisted manual chair users.

• 3:12 Slope (Or 25%, 14.5 degree incline)
13

Stability a concern.

* Clearance under scooter at top of ramp needs to be considered.
* Works for lightweight chair/user with strong assistant.
* Works for loading unoccupied power chairs and scooters.
* Only the strongest unassisted manual chair users can use on
  short ramps.



Robert Riddle wrote:
>
> I need to build a small ramp from the ground up on to the porch. How 
> do I figure out the gradiant? Like the porch is 39 inches off the 
> ground, how long should the boards be? Ideally the ramp should be 
> cement but I don't know how to do that and it's frankly beyond our 
> budget to have a pro do it. So I'm thinking of building a simple 2 by6 
> over 2 by 4 ramp and bolting it to the underside of the porch frame. 
> Thoughts?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  



Send any questions regarding list management to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] This works for me

2008-08-19 Thread David Sexton
Good idea, except wood expands/contracts and twists out of shape so 
metal setup blocks would be better. That being said, I think I'll go 
hang up different sized wood for that until I can find good metal blocks.
David

Max Robinson wrote:
>
> vary clever.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max. K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net 
> 
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net 
> 
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com 
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tom Vos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
> To:  >
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 5:51 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] This works for me
>
> > On the wall, next to my table saw, I have a rack with boards in a 
> range of
> > thicknesses, from one eighth of an inch up to two inches. It's easy to
> > make
> > these using standard quarter, three eights, half and three fourths inch
> > stock.
> > Then when I want to rip a cut of one of these thicknesses or a
> > combination,
> > I simply pull what I need off the rack and set the fence.
> > Easier than measuring every time.
> > I also have a range of boards of various lengths from four inches up 
> to 24
> > inches.
> > It's surprising how often these come in handy for settig up the saw or
> > other
> > work.
> > Blessings,
> > Tom
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> > Send any questions regarding list management to:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > 
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>  
> 
> > Or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
> 
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 
> 
> >
> > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various
> > List Members At The Following address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 
> 
> >
> > Visit the archives page at the following address
> > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
> 
> >
> > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
> > address for more information:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/ 
> > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> > list just send a blank message to:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> ! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>  


Re: [BlindHandyMan] making a chessboard

2008-07-27 Thread David Sexton
I'll probably do the setup like tiles since it will be inlay into the 
table. Wonder if I should use a different type of glue than standard 
wood glue since I won't be able to clamp the tiles that well. It will 
have to be very exact measuring on my part to get it to fit without any 
spaces showing, but if I go the black squares on a white backing that 
problem would be solved. However, the problem then is glue getting on 
the white squares.
Yeah, I want to drill holes for the pieces to sit in.
I'll most likely use a scratch awl, square, and click rule to draw a 
grid. Luckily I have a drill press so drilling accurate holes is not too 
hard.
I've always thought about making a jig out of an l-shaped wood fence and 
t-tracks and two click rules to line up for drilling holes. The fence 
would be able to move to any coordinate using the two click rules, one 
for x and one for y movement. Of course you'd have to calibrate and 
clamp it to the drill press, but that wouldn't be so hard. Once I had it 
lined up the first time I'd attach a dowel to the bottom of the device 
to fit in the hole of the drill press table.
Only problem with such a jig is the price of click rules isn't cheap. If 
I made them easily removable however it'd be ok since I already own two 
of them.
I can picture such a jig quite well, but not sure I explained it well. 
the other option is to make a XY table like on cctv's and use a click 
rule to measure and set the x and y axis.
I could take it a step further and use a computer to control stepper 
motors to control a table on threaded rods, a motor to bring the drill 
down, make hole placement and drilling automatic. I'll do that if I ever 
decide to mass produce something with a bunch of holes in it.
I have been thinking of making an accessible cnc machine for a while now.

David

Dale Leavens wrote:
>
> Why glue with dowels? Just glue the squares onto the maple substrate.
>
> Gluing up alternate thickness strips though shouldn't be all that 
> difficult. You could I suppose lay waxed strips between the thickest 
> strips so glue doesn't stick to them and they will be used to help you 
> level them up. Dowels or biscuits registered off of the flat side 
> would be another way of gluing the variable thickness strips together 
> accurately. Then you could rip and reassemble.
>
> Finally, if the playing surface is below the table level just cut them 
> all into 64 squares and lay them as tiles. You could cut 33 of the 
> black tiles and use the odd one as a spacer to help you locate and 
> glue the black ones accurately onto the white substrate.
>
> Will you bore holes to accept pegged chess pieces? I find accurately 
> locating that sort of hole pattern far more challenging.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: David Sexton
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 8:44 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] making a chessboard
>
> I'm going to make a table with a chessboard in the middle. I will use
> maple for the white squares and walnut for the black squares. The
> standard way to make a chess board is to cut the boards into strips,
> clue the strips so the colors alternate, crosscut the striped board,
> flip every other strip end for end and glue back together... Instant
> chessboard.
> This is perfect except here's the problem: I want to make an accessible
> chess board, most accessible chessboards have the black squares raised
> about an eighth inch above the white squares. Gluing up boards of
> different thicknesses is difficult at best. Drilling square holes is an
> option I suppose if I wanna drill 32 of them, but that probably won't
> look great. Most accessible chessboards I've seen have a solid particle
> board white backing with an overlay of usually plastic for the black
> squares. Not sure how easy it would be to cut such an overlay from 
> plywood.
> Maybe I could have a backing of maple ply, drill holes in the center of
> each square, cut out walnut squares, drill holes in them and glue each
> square in place with a dowel to hold them in place, drill out the dowel
> when it drys...
> Any other ideas?
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.5.6/1575 - Release Date: 
> 7/26/2008 4:18 PM
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  


[BlindHandyMan] making a chessboard

2008-07-27 Thread David Sexton
I'm going to make a table with a chessboard in the middle. I will use 
maple for the white squares and walnut for the black squares. The 
standard way to make a chess board is to cut the boards into strips, 
clue the strips so the colors alternate, crosscut the striped board, 
flip every other strip end for end and glue back together... Instant 
chessboard.
This is perfect except here's the problem: I want to make an accessible 
chess board, most accessible chessboards have the black squares raised 
about an eighth inch above the white squares. Gluing up boards of 
different thicknesses is difficult at best. Drilling square holes is an 
option I suppose if I wanna drill 32 of them, but that probably won't 
look great. Most accessible chessboards I've seen have a solid particle 
board white backing with an overlay of usually plastic for the black 
squares. Not sure how easy it would be to cut such an overlay from plywood.
Maybe I could have a backing of maple ply, drill holes in the center of 
each square, cut out walnut squares, drill holes in them and glue each 
square in place with a dowel to hold them in place, drill out the dowel 
when it drys...
Any other ideas?



[BlindHandyMan] Staves and Segments

2008-06-15 Thread David Sexton
Staves and Segments

Staved or segmented construction figures in a lot of projects, from 
ornamental bowl turnings to porch pillars. A question we often hear is: 
What miter angle (or bevel) do I need? Another recurring question is: 
How long (or wide) should I make the pieces? Finding those answers is 
relatively easy. Here s how to do the math.

First, let's get our terminology straight. Staved cylinders and 
segmented rings may seem alike, but they're two different breeds of 
cats. As shown in the Staved Cylinder and Segmented Ring illustrations, 
the individual pieces in a segmented ring are miter-cut (shown in the 
Segment illustration) and joined at the ends. In a staved cylinder, the 
component parts are bevel-cut (shown in the Stave illustration) and 
joined edge-to-edge.



So, things can become confusing when we start talking about the distance 
between the angles. On a stave that distance is the width, but on a 
segment, it's the length. For this article, we'll refer always to 
length. Substitute "width" if you're cutting staves.

Also for simplicity, we'll call the angled cuts miters, even though we 
know they may be either miters or bevels. Note, too, that this article 
only covers straight-sided cylinders or flat rings. Tapered cylinders or 
rings with sloped sides call for compound cuts.

What's Your Angle?
Corner and miter angles for
various numbers of sides
no. of sides corner miter
6 60° 30°
8 45° 22-1/2°
10 36° 18°
12 30° 15°
16 22-1/2° 11-1/4°



What's your angle?
A full circle contains 360 degrees. So, to make a closed construction 
out of straight pieces, the corner angles must add up to 360 degrees. In 
the simple figure with six equal-length sides shown in the Corner and 
Miter Angle illustration below, the six 60 degree corners add up to 360 
degrees.

But, as shown, 60 degrees is not the angle you need to cut on the ends 
of each piece. Because two sides come together to make the angle, each 
side must be miter-cut to exactly half the total corner angle, or 30 
degrees.

Here's the rule for finding the angle: To determine the corner angle for 
a figure with any number of equal-length sides, divide 360 degrees by 
the number of sides. To find the miter angle, divide the corner angle by 
two.

How Big Will It Be?

To figure out the measurement across the assembled construction, shown 
as D1 in the Assembled Size illustration, multiply the side length (L) 
times the inside-diameter factor for the appropriate number of sides 
from the chart below. This dimension, which is the diameter of the 
largest circle that can be drawn inside the outline of the glue-up, also 
represents the diameter of the largest round piece that could be sawn or 
turned from the assembled ring.

You can calculate the width across the points, shown as D2, by 
multiplying the side length times the outside-diameter factor.




FACTOR TO FIND DIAMETER
no. of
sides  Diameter
inside (D1) outside (D2)
6 1.73205 2
8 2.41421 2.61313
10 3.07768 3.23607
12 3.73205 3.86370
16 5.02734 5.12583


And if you need to know the diameter of the opening in a ring, shown as 
D3, just multiply the length of the short edge of the segment (IL) by 
the appropriate inside-diameter factor.

You can work backwards, too, to find the stave length required to 
produce a given diameter. In this case, divide the desired diameter by 
the factor from the chart. To find, for instance, the side length for a 
hexagon that measures 24" across (D1), divide 24" by the inside-diameter 
factor (1.73205). Doing this gives us 13.85641", or 13-55/64".


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing a roof

2008-06-05 Thread David Sexton
I have a one gallon air compressor, but I doubt that'll be too good for 
a roofing nailer.
I've heard the problem with them is they drive nails either too far or 
not far enough, is this true?
Well, I did need an excuse to buy a bigger air compressor.
What about a ridge vent? There isn't one currently and I'm not sure what 
they look like let alone how to install them.

David


[BlindHandyMan] Replacing a roof

2008-06-04 Thread David Sexton
Lucky me! I get to replace a shingle roof this summer. I have basic idea 
of how to go about this, but if y'all can send me some articles, tips, 
and what tools would make the job easier I'd be ever so grateful.
This is the standard tar shingles  not sure what they're called.
I need to take off what's there, and put new shingles on, don't know if 
I need to replace tar paper, wood or anything like that.
Maybe there is something better than shingles that is about the same price?
David


Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe

2008-04-01 Thread David Sexton
If you have enough money, you can get a lathe duplicator and easily duplicate 
patterns that you've cut in a flat piece of stock.
The first and only time I've used a lathe was with a duplicator, but when I get 
one of my own I shall try by hand.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe


  Norm Abram always knocks off the corners of a square piece with his table 
  saw or band saw making it into an octagon. That gives you less to remove 
  with the tool. I have a lathe but haven't found the time to play with it 
  yet.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Tom Fowle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 3:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe

  > It is very important the tool hit the work just at or just below the point
  > opposite the center of turn.. If it is high, the tool will be thrown
  > towards you.
  >
  > If you have to set up belts, motors etc. make very sure the work
  > turns with the top comming at you so the side closest to you
  > is going down. That way the work helps push the tool down against
  > the tool rest. Believe me it's happened
  > that somebody made the work turn other way
  > and the tool is grabbed and flung up in the air.
  >
  > In turning a cylinder from a square piece, as somebody said
  > start with the gouge and take it very gently till you
  > get used to the vibration.
  >
  > If you can find a local experienced turner, nothing is better than a
  > few hands on lessons with a good teacher, as long as it isn't some idiot
  > who thinks you can only use sand paper.
  >
  > Tom
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > 



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole-house audio system

2008-03-30 Thread David Sexton
I found a place for all knids of speakers, but now I need to find a speaker 
guide, which wattage, etc.
I also need to find computer controllable PA system boards.
The speaker site I found is: http://www.regalusa.com/speakers.html 
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] whole-house audio system


  one of the best places for decent! speakers right now is
  tubeaudiodesign.com
  he's got a speaker that sounds great for $169 a pair.
  Other wise go to radio shack
  Check out the site.

  On Fri, 28 Mar 2008, David Sexton wrote:

  > I'm looking for links on DIY whole-house audio. Where to get reasonably 
priced speakers and most importantly the PA controller to connect all the 
speakers together.
  > Also, calculations for power consumption.
  > David
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >


   


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[BlindHandyMan] whole-house audio system

2008-03-28 Thread David Sexton
I'm looking for links on DIY whole-house audio. Where to get reasonably priced 
speakers and most importantly the PA controller to connect all the speakers 
together.
Also, calculations for power consumption.
David


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] I'm About To Scream!!!

2008-03-25 Thread David Sexton
What doesn't interest one person obviously interests others. There have been 
subjects on this list that have gone on for ages that I really wasn't 
interested in, but of course there's a delete button and the ability to sort 
messages by conversation.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Donnie Parrett 
  To: Handy Man Blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 12:19 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I'm About To Scream!!!


  The Give'm an inch and Tankless water heaters have about been run into the 
ground and back about 13
  times!

  Contact me at:
  Donnie Parrett
  1956 Asa Flat Road
  Annville, KY 40402
  Home # 606-364-3321
  Cell # 606-438-2557
  Church # 606-364-PRAY
  Skype Name: Donnie1261
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] using rock salt

2008-03-03 Thread David Sexton
Probably the moisture as well as that when you approach 0 f that's the point at 
which salt water freezes. So, salt won't do much good. 
Did you know you can use anything that lowers the freezing point of water?
You could just as easily use sugar, but that's more expensive and what a sticky 
mess!
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Cy Selfridge 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 8:21 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] using rock salt


  Could it be that when temps drop much below 10F the moisture tends to be non
  existant and the salt has nothing to work with?
  In Colorado when the temp drops below 10F the ice becomes crunchy and *very*
  dry. 
  Cy, the ancient Okie... 

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
  Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 9:57 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using rock salt

  that was what I think I was looking for Bob" when I lived in Western 
  NY it did not work well near 10 degrees. thanks.Lee

  On Sat, Mar 01, 2008 
  at 
  07:47:09PM -0500, Bob Kennedy wrote:
  > I never heard of a high temp that it wouldn't work at. Once you get above
  35 it's a bit of a waste because nature is melting the ice for you. 
  > 
  > I do remember from living in Western New York for many years that rock
  salt doesn't work when the temperature is much below 10 or 15 degrees. 
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Lee A. Stone 
  > To: Blind Handyman 
  > Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 2:19 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] using rock salt
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Am I correct that the standard store brands of rock salt or something 
  > like Hailite is a product that works at only below freezing temps? 
  > thanks.Lee
  > 
  > -- 
  > Let's remind ourselves that last year's fresh idea is today's cliche.
  > -- Austen Briggs
  > Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: HYPERLINK
  "mailto:stonedge%40jabber.org"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > 

  -- 
  No wonder Clairol makes so much money selling shampoo.
  Lather, Rinse, Repeat is an infinite loop!
  Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: HYPERLINK
  "mailto:stonedge%40jabber.org"[EMAIL PROTECTED]

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008
  5:41 PM

  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008
  5:41 PM


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over.

2008-02-20 Thread David Sexton
There are many of these electric cars here in Madison. There are also many 
streets that have odd intersections that come together at very odd angles. 
Sometimes 5 streets come together at once. There are also roads with stop signs 
as there are everywhere. When there is a stop sign and no parallel traffic and 
an electric car is going or waiting at the stop sign I certainly can't hear it. 
There have been many times when if I were using my cane and not my dog I would 
have been squashed.
David
  adi- Original Message - 
  From: Trouble 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over.


  you would think they could find a issue that is more forth coming 
  then a handful of cars. When I see or hear more of them on the road 
  then mini vans. i will take notice, but for now i just go with 
  traffic like everyone else.
  A bigger issue is identification of money, witch they stepped away 
  from, Better transportation within town and cities, and more 
  education for the public that thinks helpless still spells blind.
  New name for NFB, Not For the Blind!

  At 09:56 PM 2/19/2008, you wrote:

  >Sure hope the NFB leadership don't get a donation from these folks.
  >RJ
  >- Original Message -
  >From: Boyce, Ray
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 21:37
  >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over.
  >
  >Members of the National Federation of the Blind (NFB) will testify
  >before the Senate Judicial Proceedings Committee regarding the extreme
  >danger silent
  >hybrid cars pose to the blind, as well as other pedestrians, cyclists,
  >and small children.
  >
  >Date: February 19, 2008
  >Time: 1:00 p.m.
  >Location: Miller Senate Office Building, Room 2 East
  >Annapolis, Maryland 21401
  >
  >When compared to vehicles using traditional combustion engines, hybrid
  >vehicles are virtually silent when accelerating and decelerating, making
  >it impossible
  >for blind individuals to detect their presence. To address this problem,
  >Senator Norman Stone has introduced Senate Bill 276. If passed, the bill
  >will
  >establish a task force to make recommendations regarding a minimum sound
  >standard for all new vehicles sold and licensed in Maryland.
  >
  >About the National Federation of the Blind
  >
  >With more than 50,000 members, the National Federation of the Blind is
  >the largest and most influential membership organization of blind people
  >in the United
  >States. The NFB improves blind people's lives through advocacy,
  >education, research, technology, and programs encouraging independence
  >and self-confidence.
  >It is the leading force in the blindness field today and the voice of
  >the nation's blind. In January 2004 the NFB opened the National
  >Federation of the
  >Blind Jernigan Institute, the first research and training center in the
  >United States for the blind led by the blind.
  >
  >National Federation of the Blind
  >
  >**
  >This message and its attachments may contain legally
  >privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
  >intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
  >information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
  >in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
  >e-mail and delete the e-mail.
  >
  >Any content of this message and its attachments which
  >does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
  >must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
  >Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
  >attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
  >**
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >

  Tim
  trouble
  "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
  --Sam Brown

  Blindeudora list owner.
  To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora 



   


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[BlindHandyMan] Giant cardboard tubes!

2008-02-18 Thread David Sexton
I have a possible source for giant cardboard tubes. They're about 9' long, 4" 
outer diameter, and 3.5" inner diameter.
These are some long, hefty cardboard tubes. can anyone think of a use for them?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Home Automation: where we've been, where we're at and wh ere we're going.

2008-02-12 Thread David Sexton
Lucky Lindy meets my Grandmother
(or, Home Automation: where we've been, where we're at and where we're going)
by Phil Kingery

In all truth, Charles Lindbergh never met my grandmother, but both have played 
a role, albeit small, in my perception of Home Automation. My Grandmother
Florence was born in Flat Rock, Indiana in 1910 and was a young woman of 16 
when Charles Lindbergh made his historic flight across the Atlantic. She has
seen a lot of changes in her long life. She remembers using kerosene lanterns 
in her home. She recalls the hand-operated water pump being several long
strides outside the kitchen door. On cold winter mornings she would take warm 
water from beside the wood stove to prime the pump. The pump handle was often
so cold that she had to be careful not to let her mittens freeze to the metal. 
Her first experience with what would later be called "home automation" was
when her family built a new farm house with the water pump "inside" the kitchen.

Moving the water pump into the house was a tremendous first step for her and 
her family. It is staggering to think of all the technical innovations in "HA" 
she has witnessed in her life. The practical, incandescent electric light bulb 
had been invented by Thomas Edison while her parents were still children.
However, it was the work of men like Nikola Tesla who made it possible to get 
the needed electricity to rural areas like Flat Rock. Even while Lucky Lindy 
was flying to Paris, only a few towns the size of Flat Rock had electricity.

Alexander Bell's telephone was a modern technical marvel at that time, and yet 
again, only the larger cities had telephone service. Men like Marconi and 
others were also working on the idea of sending sound "through the air", but 
the idea of a radio in everyone's home was years away.

During my grandmother's early years, more towns began to have movie theaters. 
She can recall taking the train to nearby Indianapolis to go to the silent
movies of the day. But as the 1920's gave way to the 1930's, the great 
depression deepened. Technical innovations moved very slowly.

As is always the case, terrible things can occur that speed the development of 
new technologies: December 7, 1941. As the United States was drawn into the
war, scientists and engineers began working on things that would not only help 
win the war, but would ultimately have an effect on Home Automation. Radio
tubes became smaller and more reliable for use in ships and aircraft. (This led 
to radios being practical for homes and civilian automobiles.) The uses
of radio expanded to not only voice, but data. (Now we have key chain remotes 
to unlock our cars, open our garage doors and arm our security systems.)
Powerful high frequency waves were used to detect enemy airplanes long before 
they could be seen. (We now have microwave ovens and radar detectors.)

After the war technology continued to expand. In 1947, Bell Labs announced the 
next big step in electronics: the transistor. Then into the 1950's (a time
of my own recollection) we began to see more electronics in the home. I can 
recall the day that my father bought a second television for our home. This
was especially unusual for that time as most homes in the country either had 
one or none. We now had two and for the first time, my father could watch
"Wagon Train" on the big set, while my sister, brother and I watched "The 
Wonderful World of Disney" on the other. Both sets were black and white, but
at that time, we didn't care. The big set was attached to the roof antenna, but 
our little 12-inch set only had rabbit ears. Mickey was a little fuzzy.

Remote control began to emerge around this time, also. I recall going to a rich 
relative's home and being fascinated by their "remote control television".
It was a big monster in a hard wood cabinet the size of an office desk. The 
pastel colors of their "color" television were not very life-like, but that
didn't matter. It was COLOR! What really fascinated me was the remote control. 
Now, they still had to turn it on, adjust the volume and all of that, but
then they could sit down in their easy chair and "change channels" remotely. 
This was accomplished by a plastic tube running from the back of the TV set
to a large rubber bulb, like a turkey baster. Every time you squeezed the 
rubber bulb, the channel changer would advance one channel. Going from channel
4 to channel 6 only took two squeezes. At that time we only had three channels. 
It was a little more difficult going from channel 8 back to channel 4 because
it took nine squeezes. You also had to endure the audio hiss and video frazzle 
of the all those vacant in-between channels. I remember getting in trouble
for jumping up and down on the rubber bulb trying to see how fast I could 
change the channels.

In 1978 remote control took a new step when Pico Engineering patented the 
"X-10" protocol. This was a whole new way of "remote control". The "turkey 
baster"
idea had not laste

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries?

2008-02-12 Thread David Sexton
The reason you should use the same brand, even use the same package, or at 
least same brand and same age batteries is because the batteries will last as 
long as the shortest life battery. Every brand of battery has a different 
lifespan. So, if you use different brands you may have one battery that has 
gone dead while the rest are perfectly fine.
It's not unsafe or anything to use different brands, just not very efficient.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 4:36 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Batteries?


  Hello Everyone,

  Does anyone know the rules concerning batteries?
  Should you always put the same type of batteries into an item?

  I'm asking because we have a four-year-old, and we're constantly going 
  through batteries! Sometimes, I open packages of different brands and put 
  them into a toy, etc, but I've heard this is not a good thing!
  Any ideas?

  Thanks.

  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

2008-02-11 Thread David Sexton
um? 4hp at 110 volts? impossible!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 4:38 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question


  It seems like Sears advertises a 4HP 110V AC air compressor.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of David W Wood
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 1:51 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Here in the U.K. it is 4 horse power per single A.C. outlet.

  David

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of David Ferrin
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:48 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  I'm trying to remember how much in the way of horse power can be generated
  by a motor operating off a standard electrical outlet. I know it isn't much,
  probably less than 3 horse power, I just can't recall at this time. 
  David Ferrin
  www.jaws-users.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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  To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] That little voice

2008-02-05 Thread David Sexton
I've known for years that when the little voice in my head warns me
that I'm in an unsafe situation I need to take action. Some times that
means using a tool differently or building a jig to make the task safer.

I was injured recently (not in my wood shop) and I think the story
might be useful to someone so here it is.

I was removing a tree in my front yard because it dropped balls of sap
on my cars and driveway. I got it down to the stump and was digging
and cutting roots to remove the stump. My neighbor from a few houses
down said he removes a lot of trees and offered to come help me dig out
the stump. I could tell right away that this guy was trying way too
hard to show how fast and hard he could work. My little voice was
screaming at me to either go in the house and let him do it alone or
just thank him and say I would do it alone. I was not comfortable
having a volunteer work in my yard while I sat in the house, and I did
not want to be rude and tell him to go home. I increased my distance
from him to around 7 feet, but it wasn't enough.

He was swinging my axe trying to remove a root and lost his grip on the
axe handle. The axe flew out of his hands and the head of it hit me in
the face. The dull end hit and broke my nose into three pieces. The
hospital staff rushed me into a CT scan which showed, contrary to their
expectations, that I did not have a skull fracture. I was wearing
heavy safety glasses that are likely the reason I did not lose an eye.
This was three weeks ago. The bone and flesh are not yet healed to the
point that I can return to my woodshop. I missed a lot of days at work
and I haven't received the big medical bill yet.

My point is that you should not let your desire to be polite to someone
override the little voice that tells you how to avoid injury. If
someone around you is doing something dangerous, it is better to be
thought rude than allow someone to put you in danger. I have listened
to the little voice for years as a guide to what I should not do. Now
I know that I have to make it clear to people around me what the voice
warns they should not do.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multi Meter

2008-01-24 Thread David Sexton
does anyone know if this talking multimeter works with temperature probes?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gil Laster 
  To: Post to Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 11:06 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multi Meter


  A few weeks ago a digital talking multi meter was mentioned on this list. I 
bought one and was most pleasantly surprised at its high quality for only $40 + 
$8 shipping. Two years ago when I first thought about a talking meter they were 
$200 from aid catalogs. This meter is simple to use and speaks clearly. Check 
it out:

  TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.
  http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16562+TE

  i also bought gold plated stereo RCA plug cables that are also of high 
quality at a very low price. MPJA.COM has my endorsement.

  - Gil Laster
  Charlotte, NC

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Just have a seat

2008-01-20 Thread David Sexton
I've seen these in san francisco about 10 years ago... 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Just have a seat



  Knowing my luck I would push the red emergency button by mistake if ever
  in this toilet lol.
  Enter When The Light Is Green. What's "green?!"
  Somehow I don't think that they took in consideration the visually chalanged 
  community. I believe that only about 10% of blind people use Braille.
  I also don't remember who on list was building a new bathroom but maybe you 
  could get a few ideas here.

  FACILITIES REVIEW. Greetings, Earthlings. Your New Restroom Is Ready..
  NY Times Metropolitan Desk2008-01-11 By MICHAEL WILSON.

  When New York City's open-armed embrace of tourists finally extends
  beyond the boundaries of Earth to creatures from outer space, these
  visitors will find themselves right at home in Madison Square Park's
  sleek, shiny new public toilet. Indeed, the toilet calls to mind not a
  port-o-let, but rather the sort of room one imagines adjoined the
  personal quarters of Capt. James T. Kirk on the Starship Enterprise. It
  is a 25-cent journey to the future -- and, almost secondarily, a not
  unpleasant restroom. The restroom was unveiled on Thursday, the first of
  20 planned for the city after more than 30 years of false starts and
  frustrations. It faces Madison Avenue just north of 23rd Street, and at
  first glance looks like a bus stop shelter.
  There are two architectural flourishes, both on the roof: a small
  pyramid of glass, like a little model of the Louvre, and an
  anachronistic metal stovepipe, reminiscent of a cozy shanty or an old
  outhouse with a crescent moon carved into the door. But no one goes to a
  bathroom to look at it. When the green light marked 'vacant' is lit, 25
  cents -- coins only, no bills -- starts the visit. What follows is
  possibly the longest and most awkward 20 to 30 seconds of a person's
  day. The door slips open like an elevator, but then it stays open, to
  accommodate those who need extra time getting in.
  Meanwhile, men and women in suits walk past. It is very difficult to
  look inconspicuous in a bathroom on a sidewalk in New York with the door
  open.
  There is just nothing to do but stand there. And the delay will not
  please those who are in distress. Finally, the door closes, and the
  first surprise is the quiet. The walls are padded to dampen street
  noise, leaving just the hum of a little fan overhead. Six little lights
  and the skylight in the pyramid cast a neutral glow over the user's home
  for the next 15 minutes, the maximum time limit. This toilet, which cost
  more than $100,000, is very spacious, large enough to accommodate a
  wheelchair. One cannot touch the side walls with arms outstretched. The
  floor is rubber and, more strikingly, very wet, but not in a
  bus-station-men's-room way. There is an antiseptic, fresh smell to the
  place. Sadly, these little surprises are forgotten with the first look
  at the toilet itself, an imposing, metal, cold-looking receptacle in the
  corner. There is no little stall around it, and so it looks exposed,
  like the facilities available in many prisons. It, too, is quite damp,
  for perfectly good reasons explained later, but the image first evokes a
  dungeon or a scene from one of the 'Saw' pictures. There is no seat to
  raise or lower, just the wide rim of the bowl, with covers made of
  tissue available in a dispenser to the side. Sitting down is a leap of
  faith, like falling backwards into a stranger's arms at a corporate
  team-building retreat. Turns out, it is cold. But once settled, the
  visitor finds the seat the perfect place to take in the room's other
  amenities. There seem to be as many buttons as on Captain Kirk's bridge.
  Red buttons, blue buttons, yellow buttons, black and green buttons. The
  red ones near the door and toilet call the company for help in an
  emergency. The yellow calls for 'assistance,'
  presumably something less dire than an emergency, but nonetheless, a
  situation. Blue flushes. Black dispenses toilet paper. One will quickly
  familiarize oneself with that button, because the designers have deigned
  a little 16-inch strip the standard helping of paper. A word to the
  wise:
  There is a maximum of just three helpings. Another tip: Do not tarry. A
  grim yellow light turns on when there are just three minutes remaining,
  and after that, the door will open. The sink is across the room. The big
  shocker here is the soap dispenser, which actually emits not a little
  squirt of soap, but a jet of warm water, with the soap already mixed in.
  Everything is motion-activated. No knobs anywhere. The warm-air hand
  dryer seems somewhat slow and weak, especially with that yellow light
  blinking by the door.
  Assuming one finishes before the 15 minutes are up, the big green button
  opens the door. The hor

[BlindHandyMan] Cleaning with Vinegar

2008-01-20 Thread David Sexton
Source: http://www.vinegartips.com/cleaning/
To shine chrome sink fixtures that have a lime buildup, use a paste made of 2 
tablespoons salt and 1 teaspoon white distilled vinegar.

Make your own scouring cleanser by combining 1/4 cup baking soda with 1 
tablespoon liquid detergent. Add just enough white distilled vinegar to give it
a thick but creamy texture.

Clean counter tops and make them smell sweet again with a cloth soaked in 
undiluted white distilled vinegar.

Clean and deodorize a drain by pouring in 1 cup baking soda, then one cup hot 
white distilled vinegar. Let this sit for 5 minutes or so then run hot water
down the drain.

Deodorize the garbage disposal by pouring in 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup 
hot white distilled vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes then run hot water down
the disposal.

Deodorize and clean the garbage disposal with white distilled vinegar ice 
cubes. Make them by freezing full-strength white distilled vinegar in an ice 
cube
tray. Run several cubes down the disposal while flushing with cold water.

Clean the microwave by mixing 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup water 
in a microwave-safe bowl. Bring it to a rolling boil inside the microwave.
Baked-on food will be loosened, and odors will disappear. Wipe clean.

Clean the shelves and walls of the refrigerator with a half-and-half solution 
of water and white distilled vinegar.

Cut the grime on the top of the refrigerator with a paper towel or cloth and 
full-strength white distilled vinegar.

Avoid the bad smell when you heat up a newly cleaned oven by using a sponge 
soaked in diluted white distilled vinegar for the final rinse.

To clean a grease splattered oven door window, saturate it with full-strength 
white distilled vinegar. Keep the door open for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping
with a sponge.

Remove soap buildup and odors from the dishwasher by pouring a cup of white 
distilled vinegar inside the empty machine and running it through a whole cycle.
Do monthly.

To prevent good glassware from getting etched by minerals, wash then spray with 
full-strength white distilled vinegar. Give the glasses a hot water rinse
before letting them dry or drying them with a towel.

For cloudy glassware, soak paper towels or a cloth in full-strength white 
distilled vinegar and wrap around the inside and outside of the glass. Let sit
awhile before rinsing clean.

Get rid of lime deposits in a tea kettle by adding 1/2 cup white distilled 
vinegar to the water and letting it sit overnight. If more drastic action is
needed, boil full-strength white distilled vinegar in the kettle a few minutes, 
let cool and rinse with plain water.

Remove mineral deposits from coffee makers with white distilled vinegar. Fill 
the water reservoir with 1 cup or more of white distilled vinegar and run
it through a whole cycle. Run it once or twice more with plain water to rinse 
clean. (Check the owners' manual first.)

Remove stains from coffee and teacups by scrubbing them gently with equal parts 
of salt (or baking soda) and white distilled vinegar. Rinse clean.

For stained and smelly plastic food containers, wipe them with a cloth dampened 
with white distilled vinegar.

Remove odors from a lunch box by placing inside a slice of bread that has been 
soaked in white distilled vinegar. Leave overnight.

Remove ugly film in narrow-necked glass jars, flower vases, and bottles by 
letting undiluted white distilled vinegar sit in them for a few hours. Add a
little rice or sand and shake vigorously to loosen stubborn stains. Repeat if 
necessary.

To clean tarnished brass, copper, and pewter, use a paste with equal amounts of 
white distilled vinegar and table salt.

Make a metal cleanser by adding enough white distilled vinegar to 2 tablespoons 
of cream of tartar to make a paste. Rub it on and let it dry on the surface.
Wash it off and dry with a soft cloth.

Polish brass and copper with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of ketchup and 1 
tablespoon white distilled vinegar. Rub it on with a clean cloth until dry and
shiny.

Remove dark stains on an aluminum pot by boiling a mixture of 1 cup white 
distilled vinegar and 1 cup hot water.

Discourage ants by spraying undiluted white distilled vinegar outside doorways 
and windowsills, around appliances and wherever you find the pests coming
in.

Get rid of fruit flies by setting out a small dish of undiluted white distilled 
vinegar.

Clean the wheel of a can opener using white distilled vinegar and an old 
toothbrush.

Remove the smell of spoiled food from a refrigerator by first rinsing the area 
with soap and water. Spray surfaces with full-strength white distilled vinegar
and wipe them down with a damp cloth or sponge. Fill some containers with 
baking soda and place inside. Close the door and leave for a few days.

Wipe grease off exhaust fan grids, the inside of your oven, or anywhere grease 
gathers with a sponge soaked in white distilled vinegar.

To make cleaning the grill easier, spray a solu

Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter saw feature dado cutting

2007-12-30 Thread David Sexton
No, no, no. He means that the saw can't cut all the way across the board. He
has to put a block of wood behind the board so that it's wide enough for the
saw to cut across.
- Original Message -
From: "Little Freak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 6:22 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] miter saw feature dado cutting


> It's not suppose to. That being said it's better to do that kind of
cutting
> on a table saw.
>
>
> Thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:50 AM
> To: Handyman-Blind
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] miter saw feature dado cutting
>
> Hi All, I was a little disappointed with my sliding miter saw. I wanted to
> make a quick dado cut. The saw has a height adjustment for this purpose.
> What I did not expect is that it made a blind dado cut. When the blade
> height was increased it will not cut all of the way through the stock.
> To make it cut through I had to install a small backer board.
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1202 - Release Date:
12/29/2007
> 1:27 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1202 - Release Date:
12/29/2007
> 1:27 PM
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
following address for more information:
> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following 
address for more information:
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Re: Powertwist belts, was: [BlindHandyMan] new tools

2007-12-27 Thread David Sexton
Hmm, my tablesaw has three belts and runs very smoothly. I wonder if powertwist 
belts are worth it.
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 2:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new tools


  another thing i got was one of those power twist belts for the table saw.
  holy cow i can't say enough good about it.
  like someone else on here said one can balance a nickle on the table 
  and it stays there.

  also i let it sit over night at about 0 degrees over night and hit 
  the switch thenext morning and zoom off it went.
  with the old belt i would have popped a breaker.
  jim



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

2007-12-23 Thread David Sexton
they make great bubbling sounds for a while then they kick the bucket.
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  yes mice can swim but if theres only about 4 inches of water in say 
  a tin bucket they can't swim that long and they can't jump out so 
  good bye mouse.
  jim
  At 02:28 PM 12/21/2007, you wrote:

  >Unfortunaely, mice can swim.
  >
  >- Original Message -
  >From: robert moore
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:58 PM
  >Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap
  >
  >Can mice swim?
  >If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
  >Now I just need to make a prototype.
  >
  >-Original Message-
  >From: 
  >blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
  >Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap
  >
  >Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
  >the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
  >generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
  >are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
  >However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
  >treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?
  >
  >---Anthony
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 
  >12/22/2007 2:02 PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] feely meely game

2007-12-23 Thread David Sexton
Cover the holes with rubber cut into wedge shapes... Like the rubber thinggy 
that covers a garbage disposal... Hey, maybe you could buy those.
This reminds me of the blackbox experiment we did in chemestry. Cardboard boxes 
filled with random things and taped shut except for small hanger wire shaped 
holes. You had a list of the possible things and had to guess what was in your 
box by shaking it and feeling around inside just with the end of a coat hanger.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 8:18 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] feely meely game


  I think that I will make a reproduction of the old 1967 Milton Bradley game 
Feely Meely. I haven't decided if I want to use a cardboard box as in the 
original or make it collapsible with 1/4" hardboard. 
  The main part of the game Is a box with a hole cut in each side. Around the 
hole is black felt to help keep someone from looking inside. 
  Now you have about twenty or so trinkets like a small ball, a coin, an eraser 
etc. You have a photograph of each item and the actual items are placed inside 
the box. When each picture is turned over the players quickly reach inside the 
box and try to retrieve the item. I think that I will make this for my 
grandson's birthday in April. This will give me plenty of time to find objects 
for the game.
  Years ago I played this game but the rules that we used was that when the 
card was turned over the name of the object had to be shouted out. Actually I 
think I had an advantage because of a great sense of touch.
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

2007-12-21 Thread David Sexton
I did that. A bucket of water, a bent hanger and a soda can with top and bottom 
removed covered in peanut butter. Little mice aren't so good at the tredmill 
and fall into the water. Caught about 7 a night.
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  Robert, do tell.

  I have heard of a couple ways of doing this with bait suspended over a 
partially-filled bucket on something like a tuna fish can on an axel. 
  Maybe a little see-saw with a small counter weight would work too.

  I'd do this if I had a real bad infestation, otherwise I'd try one of the rat 
zappers someone mentioned. 
  We have a cat who is extremely good at keeping the mouse population well 
under control, but 
  I understand not all cats will do this.

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan

  -Original Message-
  From: "robert moore"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Sent: 12/21/07 1:58:38 PM
  To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

  Can mice swim?
  If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
  Now I just need to make a prototype.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
  the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
  generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
  are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
  However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
  treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge

2007-12-21 Thread David Sexton
Because the pieces of wood that slide out to support the leaf wouldn't e
able to slide past the hinge.
Also, a piano hinge won't support weight as well since the screws would be
in the same direction of the force of anything on the table. The screws
would eventually pull loose.

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge


I can't see why going through all this trouble.
Why not use a piano hinge from underneath and install it while the boards
are snugged up tight on horizontal?

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote:

> Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position
>
> Drop Leaf Rule Joint
>
> While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this
joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in
a
> joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the
first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at
> work.
>
> These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a
router. Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of
matching cuts,
> it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint.
>
> Because different hinges will require different settings for your router,
hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially
manufactured
> with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the
underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the
reverse
> side.
>
> Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface.
Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In
the
> case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8"
(Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you
can simply
> measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised
into the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf
will
> be 1/8" up from the bottom.
>
> Most tabletops are built of 3/4" thick material and so it seems reasonable
to select a 1/2" radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a
rule
> joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of
rotation described above and will assume a 1/2" radius cutter will leave a
1/4" fillet
> in 3/4" stock. If a 1/2" radius cutter is set correctly, with the center
of its described circle raised 1/8" above the underside of the table, the
fillet
> will actually be only 1/8" not 1/4". An 1/8" fillet is a workable minimum
because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must
match
> its profile with perhaps 1/32" clearance. With a full 3/4" material
thickness, that will leave an edge of 3/32" which should be regarded as the
absolute
> minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2"
radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16" or
> smaller pair of bits.
>
> After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge
choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table
top.
> If you are using a 1/2" radius cutter you will need to set the base of
your router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the
following formula:
>
> Tabletop thickness (3/4") minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8") minus
cutter radius (1/2")
>
> With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf.
Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32" larger radius to provide a
little
> clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in
order to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this
much
> when installing the hinges.
>
> The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and
will accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ¼" straight
cutter.
> The center of this cut should be a 1/64" outboard of a line drawn down
from the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside
down
> and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32", lay the hinge
barrel in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally
route
> a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into
place. Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this
operation.
>
> **
> This message and its attachments may contain legally
> privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
> intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
> information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
> in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
> e-mail and delete the e-mail.
>
> Any content of this message and its attachments which
> does not relate to the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand

2007-12-11 Thread David Sexton
If you could find a router bit that size you could cut the scallops directly 
into the sides of the shelf. That wouldn't break as easily and would offer more 
support.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand


  Dale, Yes, the shelves will have rounded edges matching the profile of the 
  scallops. That way they will be adjustable by sliding inside. The one 
  concern that I had was having an end of the scallop breaking off. I believe 
  using oak will significantly reduce this risk.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 11:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand

  Hi,

  Are these shelves supposed to be adjustable?

  If so, when you seat the front of the shelf or the back for that matter into 
  the slot arrangement then try to lower the other edge it will hang up on the 
  upper margin of the support before it can drop down into the seated position 
  unless you clip that top corner of the support above the scallop.

  Oh it just occurred to me, perhaps you intend to mount the supports with the 
  rounded slots facing into the middle of the cabinet from the outer edges 
  then slide the shelves in from front-to-back.

  Maybe I misunderstand the arrangement.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand

  Dale, I am not sure what you mean by a wedge in the back. When the 
  scallops
  are cut there will be 4 pieces that align front to back and left to right.
  I think that I would mount the rear support about an inch from the actual
  back so that a shelf can not accidentally drop off. I know it would be
  easier just to use shelf pins but think this may make an interesting 
  looking
  piece. It will be used in a Dr's receptionist area. The shelves will just
  hold reports.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand

  The trouble is how you space them and that the rear supports need a sort 
  of
  wedge on the top side of the scallop. You can slip the front nose of the
  shelf into the appropriate slot but the back edge won't drop in unless you
  cut that wedge.

  You could make the shelf narrow enough that one end slides in while the
  other just slips past the support members then slide it laterally half the
  width of the support but you risk it sliding laterally at some unexpected
  time and one end falling down.

  Other than that it is a technique which works well.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand

  I am starting to plan a printer stand for a friend. I plan to put 4
  adjustable shelves inside and the stand will be 36" high.
  I do have the shelf pin jig but an considering a very old technique. This
  technique is to take two 1 - 1/2" boards and drill 3/4" holes down the
  center 3/8 or 1/2" apart. Then rip the boards in half. These 4 pieces will
  become the front and rear shelf supports. For the shelves use3/4" stock 
  and
  make a bullnose on the sides and front or a decorative front edge. The
  shelves will neatly slide into the supports. This is to make a scalloped
  look for the front. Has anyone done anything similar? I think that if I 
  use
  oak the will be little chance of the supports breaking off.
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
  following
  address for more information:
  http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com

  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  list
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROT

Re: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question

2007-12-03 Thread David Sexton
in france I saw a stove with two electric burners and two gas burners...
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 8:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven 
range+reason for gas question


  I know I have seen combo oven / cook top with one being electric and the 
  other being gas, meaning gas oven with electric stove top, and electric 
  oven with gas stove top. But I can't say that I've seen a double range 
  with integrated stove top.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Radio direction finding revisited

2007-12-02 Thread David Sexton
I was thinking... Which is quite dangerous, but could I put say, 4 receivers in 
a square/rectangle and then find the location of a transmitter in that 
rectangle based on signal strength? How about two transmitters? If I could do 
that I could tel where the two are in relation to each other.
Daiverd


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] radio direction finding project

2007-11-25 Thread David Sexton
I'm working on a project for a friend. She wants to be able to train dogs off 
leash and she has to be able to know where the dog is.
My idea is a belt with eight tactile feedback units spaced equally around a 
belt and A radio transmitter for the dog to wear.
Some sort of direction finding antanna.
Maybe each of the eight units could be receivers and a micro processor could 
determine which one is receiving the stronger signal.
Any ideas at all?
How could I go about developing something like this. What are good sources for 
parts, etc.
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] furniture wood finishes

2007-11-17 Thread David Sexton
What is the best finish for a piece of furniture like a dining room table that 
a blind person can apply independently? 
Sure I can find the answer of which finish is the best, but which one would 
actually look good if I used it myself?
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

2007-11-16 Thread David Sexton
is it cheaper to use an electric heater to heat a room or use the central air? 
I'm not usually in the rest of my house, but it seems like a space heater would 
cost more constantly running.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 2:01 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters


  I just talked to a friend of mine who purchased a very unique electric 
heater. It is quartz and hot air. Since quartz radiant heat typically only 
heats the objects in front this heater was designed to do both. In front of the 
three quartz tubes are copper tubes. Since the quartz will heat the copper a 
small fan forces air through the copper heating the room. He purchased this 
unit last year for about $400. He just purchased a device from harbor freight 
that shows the kw of an appliance. You plug this thing in and then he plugged 
the heater into it. It shows actual usage. Using this he was able to calculate 
that it is costing him about $55 a month to heat his living, dining and 
kitchen. At night he turns the unit off and uses his oil heating system.At the 
current price of heating oil at nearly $3 he should recover his investment in a 
few weeks.
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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[BlindHandyMan] temperature controlled box

2007-10-15 Thread David Sexton
I want to build a temperature controlled box for controlling the temperature at 
which my bread dough rises.
I'm thinking a box with a heat lamp and some sort of thermostat.
Any ideas for the heat and more importantly the thermostat to control it?
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] WOW, FYI, News Release: Bulbs To Save Energy Are Very Dangerous To Children

2007-09-29 Thread David Sexton
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I seriously don't believe there is mercury in 
floressent bulbs. You need a floressent gas like neon...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] WOW, FYI, News Release: Bulbs To Save Energy Are 
Very Dangerous To Children


  They are written by weak minded people who exaggerate the danger by a factor 
  of 1000. Mercury vapor will dissipate within a few minutes. How often do 
  light bulbs get broken. I doubt if we have broken 5 bulbs in 36 years of 
  living here.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] WOW, FYI, News Release: Bulbs To Save Energy 
  Are Very Dangerous To Children

  > Could be but why do these messages always come written with incorrect 
  > grammar and spelling?
  >
  > It is a conspiracy to retard the language skills of our children, the 
  > generation we will depend on to keep what ever sort of lights burning into 
  > the future.
  >
  > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Skype DaleLeavens
  > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  >
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Barbara
  > To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
  > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:06 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] WOW, FYI, News Release: Bulbs To Save Energy Are 
  > Very Dangerous To Children
  >
  >
  > Bulbs To Save Energy Are Very Dangerous To Children
  >
  >
  > September 30, 2007
  >
  > Environmentally Friendly Bulbs To Save Energy Are Very Dangerous To 
  > Children
  > By Thomas M. Dutkiewicz
  >
  > Forestville, CT - Why is the media acts so surprised that these new bulbs 
  > to save energy are dangerous? To say that these bulbs are environmentally 
  > friendly is an oxymoron. They are anything but friendly . . . they are 
  > dangerous to the environment and to all children.
  >
  > They are florescence bulbs and all florescence bulbs contain dangerous 
  > Mercury Vapor which is more dangerous than mercury liquid. For decades 
  > they have been putting mercury vapor in the bulbs. That's what make them 
  > work.
  >
  > Mercury in a liquid form can be seen and it balls up which is easier to 
  > clean up. Mercury vapor on the other hand can not be seen nor can it be 
  > detected by home owners. You need a special air monitoring device that 
  > detects the presences of mercury vapor along the floor. You will not find 
  > it in your breathing zone.
  >
  > The specific gravity of mercury vapor is heavier than air and will settle 
  > into your rugs and stay there. So next time you break one of these bulbs 
  > in your home, you are exposing your children to mercury vapor. So remember 
  > this when you place your baby or children on the floor.
  >
  > You need a special absorption pellet that absorbs mercury vapor on the 
  > floor. Then the hazmat team must vacuum it up and dispose of the pellet as 
  > a contaminated material. You then go in with monitoring equipment to see 
  > if there is any residual mercury left and if there is, you repeat the 
  > process.
  >
  > Every single florescence bulb in our schools, lunch rooms, grocery stores 
  > contain mercury vapor. The mercury vapor is dangerous to all humans 
  > especially children. Business should not be throwing florescence bulbs 
  > away in dumpsters which then ends up in our water systems.
  >
  > What's even more deadlier is all of the older ballasts that are running 
  > these florescence bulbs, they contain Polychlorinated Biphenyl's or PCB's. 
  > In business renovations these contaminated ballasts are thrown out which 
  > contain liquid PCB's which also gets into our water system.
  >
  > Home owners now have treat these bulbs as a hazardous material as defined 
  > by the EPA and the DOT and dispose of them properly. The cost of disposal 
  > will over shadow the cost savings. A couple of manufactures do print this 
  > mercury warning on the packaging but no one ever reads the packaging of a 
  > light bulb.
  >
  > The undersign has been in the hazardous waste, remediation and 
  > transportation business for many years. He has cleaned up mercury vapor as 
  > well as other numerous spills of various kinds.
  >
  >
  > Thomas M. Dutkiewicz
  > P.O. Box 9775
  > Forestville, CT 06011-9775
  > 860-833-4127
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives 

[BlindHandyMan] All these useful articles

2007-09-18 Thread David Sexton
I love reading all the articles that are sent to this list. I am, however, 
disappointed that most of them do not include the author and source where they 
were taken from.
Not including an author and/or source could be considered in many cases against 
copyright laws. 
Plus I'm sure many of us would love to know the resources they've come from so 
we can check out other articles that may be there.
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] pounds to dollars

2007-08-30 Thread David Sexton
$2.1018 per pound as of today
So, about $10.51 = 5 pounds
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike Rusk 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 2:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pounds to dollars


  I think the going rate is about $2.14 per pound, might be a bit off.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 5:35 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pounds to dollars

  I am trying to order something on line. Can someone please tell me the 
approximate conversion rate from pounds to dollars. 100 pounds to be precise. I 
do not want to get my hopes up to much about the prices. Also, what kind of 
shipping am I looking at across the pond and all?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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[BlindHandyMan] accessible electronic tuners

2007-08-27 Thread David Sexton
Does anyone know of an accessible device that I can measure pitches with? 
Something like an electronic music tuner.
Maybe I could use a volt meter to measure frequencies... Thoughts and 
suggestions?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Gas stove

2007-08-23 Thread David Sexton
I have a gas stove with the click-click-click electric starter. Sometimes it 
works and sometimes it doesn't. Is there anything I can do to make it work 
better?
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Suggestions for sound/echo proofing my shop

2007-07-12 Thread David Sexton
I'm moving into a townhouse with a nice concrete basement. I'm looking for 
suggestions and ideas on how best to make this space less echo and/or keep the 
sound in so my poor neighbor doesn't hate me everytime I use my table saw.
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Saltandpepper shaker

2007-06-25 Thread David Sexton
I have two shakers with the corks completely inside, is there a way to get them 
out? the only access is through the small hole the corks are supposed to plug 
up. I don't care if I destroy them, I just want them out of there!
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Looking for an accessible ham radio HT

2007-06-07 Thread David Sexton
I need a duel band HT similar to the IC-W32A. My w32a suffered water damage and 
I'm doubtful that I can fix it. I love this radio as most functions are 
accessible and is easy to program from the computer. It seems they are 
discontinued yet again.
Having just moved to the midwest it's quite important to be prepared for 
tornados and such.
Thanks for any advice and suggestions.
David
KD5ULR


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
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just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads

2007-06-04 Thread David Sexton
That reminds me of when I read about someone's son using their bandsaw to cut 
up a deer. What a mess!
Just 'cause they use bandsaws in meat-packing plants doesn't mean they're the 
same as woodworking bandsaws. lol
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads


  At the orientation center in Iowa, I had a good shop teacher. My 
  teacher for machine shop school was pretty good, too. He used to 
  say, I don't care what happens to you, just don't get any blood on my 
machines.

  earlier, Dan Rossi, wrote:

  >I was lucky enough to have a shop teacher back in junior high who took an
  >interest in teaching a blind student. He did everything in his power to
  >include me in the class. Each time we learned about a new machine, a
  >drill press, a jointer, a table saw, I was always his test subject. he
  >would show me all the parts of the machine and how it worked, and then
  >would have me drill a hole, joint a board, or whatever was required for a
  >demo.
  >
  >I credit him with my interest in wood working, which I am only now really
  >getting into. I've received calls from him over the years, and met his
  >daughter who also attended CMU. Just about two weeks ago, I received an
  >email from his daughter with the sad news that Mr. D had passed away.
  >
  >He was a rare breed. The kind of teacher who saw a blind student as a
  >challenge and not a nuisance.
  >
  >--
  >Blue skies.
  >Dan Rossi
  >Carnegie Mellon University.
  >E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >Tel:(412) 268-9081
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
  >6/3/2007 12:47 PM

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007 12:47 
PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] moving shop

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
I wish I could sell them all and buy all new ones here, but they're all new 
already...
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] moving shop


  david you can ship them to me and i will use them well grin.
  jim
  At 10:33 AM 6/3/2007, you wrote:

  >I need advice about shipping all my woodshop machines cross-country. 
  >I was thinking about using www.upack.com, but I'm not sure the best 
  >way to pack everything for the move.
  >I have a table saw, jointer, drill press, work bench, router table, 
  >and a plainer.
  >David
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
  >6/3/2007 12:47 PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
The shop teacher tought both metal and woodshop, I signed up for metal shop, 
but he didn't know how a blind person could do it and neither did I. So, I took 
woodshop instead. Until my clickrule came I was at the mercy of at aid. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] shop teachers was gear heads


  don't get me started on bad shop teachers.
  i too took wood shop and all they would let me do was sand.
  and i am really good at that.
  but that ment i had to teach my self to use the lathe, tablesaw and so on.

  hmmm maybe i would have a few less scars if they would have just took 
  a risk or so and taught me something.
  jim
  At 07:33 PM 6/3/2007, you wrote:

  >I, as a woodworker, enjoy the talk about motors and such. It was 
  >only fait that I took a high school woodshop class instead of the 
  >metal shop class. I did try to take a small engines class, but the 
  >teacher wasn't very cooperative.
  >Maybe a new list should be started for hmm, the industrial arts? I 
  >don't know. Many people on the list are hobbiests and even experts 
  >in various fields that go way beyond handyman stuff, but I think 
  >that just adds to the list.
  >I for one vote that everything be kept on this list as I've got 
  >enough lists already.
  >David
  >- Original Message -
  >From: Larry Stansifer
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
  >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads
  >
  >Robert,
  >
  >I'm not sure how your idea for a blind guy automotive based
  >list would fly.
  >I for one really enjoy reading all of the sawdust talk that
  >goes on here. I don't understand about 90% of it but I like
  >reading about it. Maybe some day I will get brave and trade
  >in tubing bender, rivet gun, torque wrench, micrometers,
  >dial indicators, and all of the rest of the shit I have in
  >my tool -box for some of the wood-working stuff you all talk
  >about.
  >What do you think guys? sawdust for motor oil, decking a
  >house for decking heads and blocks, high pressure induction
  >systems for high pressure water systems, souper-charged
  >motors for souper glued joints.
  >It all sounds like fun to me even if I don't know what the
  >whole wood thing is about.
  >
  >Regards
  >
  >Larry Stansifer
  >
  >Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.
  >
  >Sun Tzu.
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 
  >6/3/2007 12:47 PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] moving shop

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
So, I can just pack everything into boxes? I wish the jointer bed would come 
apart into more pieces. I think I'll take the two extention wings off the saw, 
but it's a delta unisaw so is pretty balanced. 
Ug, my poor drill press, it was hard enough lifting the thing up onto it's 
lofty perch... 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] moving shop


  Hi David,

  If you call them they can probably give you some advice and I see that they 
will supply some boxes and some other packing supplies.

  Some tools, in particular my table saw which has moved across the country 
twice now, are a little off balance. This can cause real trouble in a van with 
lurching about. I removed the extension table and the motor to lower the centre 
of gravity, you might load them into a box lashed to the body of the unit if 
your saw is that sort of configuration. Similarly, a jointer on a steel stand 
is pretty top heavy and might benefit from being removed from the stand and 
packed separately.

  The drill press is a really top heavy machine, particularly a floor standing 
model. They are damn heavy disassembled but with the head unit removed and 
packed probably upside down, then the table and column removed from the base it 
won't fall over and crush anything.

  If that is all you are moving then it should all go into a single cube van 
and if you can get suitable sized boxes should load up well, otherwise I would 
consider a lot of packing blankets to wrap things up in.

  The planer shouldn't pose much trouble if it is a so-called portable unit, 
router tables come in all sorts of flavours but can be a little fragile so 
might well benefit from boxing up.

  Again, they do offer a telephone help and advice service so you might also 
talk to them.

  Because you pack yourself you will probably also be able to rope and 
otherwise bind some of the heavy stuff directly to the van walls. Most have 
rails and other fixing points and this may well be enough.

  Having done a move that sort of way once myself one thing I discovered is 
that the shaking and vibration of the road causes things to migrate a little 
and often rub probably many thousands of times against other items. Things like 
kitchen and dining room chairs for example really should be individually packed 
in boxes even though this uses up loads of space. You might throw towels and 
blankets and other soft goods into the boxes to fill them up and take advantage 
of some of that volume but if you don't box them some will eventually get well 
warn against something else.

  Hope this is useful.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 11:33 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] moving shop

  I need advice about shipping all my woodshop machines cross-country. I was 
thinking about using www.upack.com, but I'm not sure the best way to pack 
everything for the move.
  I have a table saw, jointer, drill press, work bench, router table, and a 
plainer.
  David

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
I, as a woodworker, enjoy the talk about motors and such. It was only fait that 
I took a high school woodshop class instead of the metal shop class. I did try 
to take a small engines class, but the teacher wasn't very cooperative. 
Maybe a new list should be started for hmm, the industrial arts? I don't know. 
Many people on the list are hobbiests and even experts in various fields that 
go way beyond handyman stuff, but I think that just adds to the list. 
I for one vote that everything be kept on this list as I've got enough lists 
already.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gear-heads


  Robert,

  I'm not sure how your idea for a blind guy automotive based
  list would fly. 
  I for one really enjoy reading all of the sawdust talk that
  goes on here. I don't understand about 90% of it but I like
  reading about it. Maybe some day I will get brave and trade
  in tubing bender, rivet gun, torque wrench, micrometers,
  dial indicators, and all of the rest of the shit I have in
  my tool -box for some of the wood-working stuff you all talk
  about.
  What do you think guys? sawdust for motor oil, decking a
  house for decking heads and blocks, high pressure induction
  systems for high pressure water systems, souper-charged
  motors for souper glued joints.
  It all sounds like fun to me even if I don't know what the
  whole wood thing is about.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer

  Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

  Sun Tzu.


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
I can't say if it's safe or not. But most drill press motors aren't as powerful 
as the router motors. So, I would try say a 1 inch round over bit on hardwood. 
The other concern is that drills are made to go down and not really to have 
pressure put on them from the side. Sure you can use spindle sanders in them, 
but even then you have to take care not to put too much pressure on them.
Would I do this? No, because I have a router. Is it safe? I suppose it could be 
if you're not doing huge projects with huge bits. I think any of the bits that 
you don't have to press against a barring would be safer to use like the 
v-shaped cutters in that case you're running the wood under the bit not against 
it...
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 11:24 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] router bit in a drill chuck?


  Is it safe to put router bits in drill chucks? Routers use Colletts 
  which hold bits more securely, perhaps? If I can get a drill press 
  and a Bitmoore milling vise, I was thinking of putting router bits in 
  the drill press. So, my question is, is it safe to do this? I 
  wouldn't want to be hit by a flying tool bit.

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/829 - Release Date: 6/2/2007 5:26 
PM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] moving shop

2007-06-03 Thread David Sexton
I need advice about shipping all my woodshop machines cross-country. I was 
thinking about using www.upack.com, but I'm not sure the best way to pack 
everything for the move.
I have a table saw, jointer, drill press, work bench, router table, and a 
plainer.
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Further adventures with the shop smith.

2007-06-02 Thread David Sexton
I always seem to get kickbacks or as I call them spit backs when I am cutting a 
very thin pice off or when the board is narrower than the blade is... like 
cross-cutting a 1x1. This is of course why a tablesaw isn't the best for 
cross-cutting, but it's all I have.
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 8:24 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Further adventures with the shop smith.


  Since I have never seen a Shop Smith, I don't know what facilities it 
  has for anti-kickbacks. The only trouble I have had with kickbacks 
  with my table saw was when I removed the guard, with its anti-kickback levers.

  earlier, Max Robinson, wrote:

  >I finished cutting the boards today. The step, only one needed, is
  >basically a box that is 11 inches deep and 6 inches high. The one that is 6
  >feet long has a couple of reinforcements in the middle as well as the end
  >pieces. The 3 foot long step has 1 reinforcement. The whole step is 6
  >inches high and the decking boards, which are 5 and one half by 1 inch, on
  >top and bottom account for 2 inches. The vertical sides of the box, the end
  >pieces, and the internal bracing, need to be 4 inches wide. I ripped them
  >down out of the decking boards. When I was cutting the end pieces and
  >internal bracing I found out about kick back. I was standing out of the
  >line of fire. Sue had read me the warnings in the owner's manual so I knew
  >to stay out of the way. The first stick to be thrown almost hit my radio so
  >I moved it out of the way. When I was ripping the edges off the 3 foot and
  >6 foot boards there wasn't any kick back. Because the edges of a decking
  >board are rounded, I had to rip off both sides to get a flat edged board for
  >the vertical sides and the braces. All the pieces for both steps are cut
  >and tomorrow is put them together day.
  >
  >Regards.
  >
  >Max. K 4 O D S.
  >
  >Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  >Transistor site 
  >http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  >Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  >Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
  >
  >To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.4/825 - Release Date: 
  >5/30/2007 3:03 PM

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007 11:22 
AM



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] easy way to clean your pool

2007-06-01 Thread David Sexton
A chemical free product? That's almost like... dehydrated water. Baking soda is 
a chemical... Sodium bicarbonate
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eugene Baroni 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] easy way to clean your pool


  All of those methods beat the hell out of using those old brushes and they 
are easier and better on the pool lining. I don't need the brushes at all any 
more.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 2:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] easy way to clean your pool

  Eugene, still laughing as I read" I have fun doing this' regards 
  cleaning with your feet. what I have done is wore an old pair of socks 
  but I am told it looks like a trail some snails would make , even 
  after I have used the long pole vaccum. I look at it this way. whatever 
  I get done is bettern than nothing. the other thing is once the pool 
  is cleaned it keeps cleaner if the pool is used on a regular basis. 
  another fun thing we did was to get almost 30 adults, under the 
  influence of course. to hold hands and try to run in a circle around 
  the inside of this 33 foot pool. well I have collided with the stairs a 
  couple of times but that whirpool action the next day leaves this pool 
  clean as a whistle. also I will say again. find a sighted person to give 
  you the phone number , an 800 number off the side of an arm and hammer 
  box. now that is a gift you could give someone if you are a guest in 
  their pool. anyway arm and hammer has a pool booklet . however it is 
  not in braille. lots of good information in that booklet on how to use 
  their chemical free product to keep your pool really clean as well as 
  providing soft water. Lee

  -- 
  "It's today!" said Piglet.
  "My favorite day," said Pooh.

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007 11:22 
AM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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[BlindHandyMan] drilling mirrors

2007-05-29 Thread David Sexton
I forgot to say use an arrow-shaped carbide bit, but if you can, use a special 
diamond glass drilling bit like the ones at 
http://www.drillglass.com/drillingglass.html or 
www.centurydrill.com/masonry.html


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling holes in a mirror

2007-05-29 Thread David Sexton
I would have a glass shop do it for you.
Or, drill really, really slowly cooling the bit offten, use a bit specifically 
for glass.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ralph Supernaw 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 8:39 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling holes in a mirror


  Hi,

  I am building a bookcase headboard which will have a mirror across above the
  shelf. My wife bought some sconces she wants to mount on the mirror. 

  Is there a good, safe, and given my skill level, easy way to drill holes in
  a mirror?

  Thanks,
  Ralph

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freud biscuit joiner

2007-05-21 Thread David Sexton
I don't think 1/2 thick stock is too thin to biscuit joint, but I wouldn't try 
any thinner.
Some people say they notice dents in the board when biscuits dry and shrink, 
but that's never happened to me. 
Since anything 1" or thicker you can use two biscuits parallel I don't see why 
you can't use one in the 1/2 thick. 
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 2:44 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Freud biscuit joiner


  Hi All,
  I just finished using the Freud JS100A biscuit joiner. I am very pleased with 
the results. Never used one before so it was a new experience. The negative 
reviews that I read were the noise, the fence and the dust port.
  Well as for the noise it is a little loud but it doesn't bother me. The fence 
has not given me any problem although I will primarily only use 3/4" stock. And 
the dust port, well I did hook up my shop vac with no problems. There is a bar 
in the center that will clog easily when the dust bag is used. One person who 
complained about it cut it out. I believe it is a safety feature. I don't know 
who would be stupid enough to put something like a finger in there but there 
are probably some who would.
  I like it because it is not a very heavy unit.
  Due to a spinal cord injury I do not have full use and strength in my arms. I 
have no problem using this machine. When I used my drill and dowel pins I could 
only work for about 20 minutes at a time. My arms and hands would fatigue and I 
would have to go and sit for an hour or so. I used this machine for a much 
longer time period.
  The tape idea really helped with the setup. I do have a few other ideas 
floating around. If one of them work I will share.
  I do have one question about the joiners. Is 1/2" stock too thin to join? To 
center I would guess that you would lift the fence 1/8" over the 3/4" setting. 
Then place something under the 1/2" stock. This machine is designed so when 
sitting on the base it is centered for 3/4" stock.
  The panel that I just made is the nicest I have ever put together.
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] water heater question

2007-05-21 Thread David Sexton
When I was little I did things people thought I couldn't do when they weren't 
around. Sometimes people won't believe you can do something until you do it, 
but they won't let you do it because they never saw you doing it. 
I say if you know where the button is and you have a longer barbecue lighter to 
go ahead and try lighting it.
Of course if you're worried about the thing being damaged in anyway you should 
get someone from the gas company to check it out.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 11:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water heater question


  I recently bought a house which has a gas water heater. The heater is older, 
  but has a few years left. I wanted to know what's the best way to light the 
  pilot? I think I know what the pilot looks like. There's a pipe coming from 
  the thermostat which comes up in what looks like a little poker next to what 
  appears to be a cast iron disk. That poker is what I believe is the pilot, 
  and the disk I'm assuming is the burner. Speaking of the burner, there was 
  about a quarter to half inch layer of what looked like snow on top of it 
  (I'm guessing rust). Some work is being done at the house, so I took the 
  shop vac and cleaned the junk off the burner as best I could. Another 
  question, when I do decide to buy a new water heater, which one is 
  recommended? I'd prefer to stay with gas, since it's faster and generally 
  cheaper. I know some have the igniters, which means easier to light. One 
  more thing, how do you convince parents/family you won't blow the house up? 
  My family doesn't want me messing with trying to light the pilot because 
  they think I might get hurt or blow/burn the house up. And it's hard to see, 
  you have to push the button to light it, it's in a difficult area to reach, 
  yada yada yada. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

  Shane 



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] new washers

2007-05-19 Thread David Sexton
I saw a dryer in france that didn't vent the air. It somehow collected the 
water from the clothes and you had to empty it after each drying cycle.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 12:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] new washers


  Washer dryer combinations had reliability problems. The air ducts have to 
  close off really tight for the wash cycle. The closing flaps or the 
  actuators were always going bad and the result was a flood. Many people who 
  bought them lived to regret it and got rid of them pretty fast.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 10:06 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] new washers

  > Aloha all,
  > Reading all of this about washers reminded me of this appliance that
  > I encountered in a beach house rental back in the 70s. It was a front
  > loading combination washer and dryer. First you washed the clothes
  > and then you used another dial to set the thing to dry the clothes.
  > It was pretty amazing. It was under the kitchen cabinet right next to
  > the dishwasher. I've never seen one since.
  > Betsy
  >
  > At 04:48 PM 5/19/2007, you wrote:
  >
  >>Lee said:
  >>"Interesting that you mention your front loader washer
  >>Boop as I am told that some Laundromats still have those as
  >>they did years ago. I wonder if the original ones were for
  >>capacity?"
  >>
  >>I remember the one front loader our Laundromat had. That
  >>thing was big enough to hold a family of 4, including their
  >>clothes!! I don't remember it having any kind of lock on the
  >>door either. The water level would go half way up the window in
  >>the door. The only time my Mom used it was for blankets, and
  >>that kind of thing. I think that was the main purpose for them
  >>at that time. It was safe to wash handmade quilts in them too,
  >>since they didn't have an agitator.
  >>
  >>Boop
  >>
  >>
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
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  > List Members At The Following address:
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  >
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  > -- 
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.5/812 - Release Date: 5/19/2007 
  > 1:52 PM
  >
  > 



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] new washers

2007-05-19 Thread David Sexton
A lot of my friends in europe have machines like that, washer/dryer combos.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 10:06 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] new washers


  Aloha all,
  Reading all of this about washers reminded me of this appliance that 
  I encountered in a beach house rental back in the 70s. It was a front 
  loading combination washer and dryer. First you washed the clothes 
  and then you used another dial to set the thing to dry the clothes. 
  It was pretty amazing. It was under the kitchen cabinet right next to 
  the dishwasher. I've never seen one since.
  Betsy

  At 04:48 PM 5/19/2007, you wrote:

  >Lee said:
  >"Interesting that you mention your front loader washer
  >Boop as I am told that some Laundromats still have those as
  >they did years ago. I wonder if the original ones were for
  >capacity?"
  >
  >I remember the one front loader our Laundromat had. That
  >thing was big enough to hold a family of 4, including their
  >clothes!! I don't remember it having any kind of lock on the
  >door either. The water level would go half way up the window in
  >the door. The only time my Mom used it was for blankets, and
  >that kind of thing. I think that was the main purpose for them
  >at that time. It was safe to wash handmade quilts in them too,
  >since they didn't have an agitator.
  >
  >Boop
  >
  >



   


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[BlindHandyMan] Re: who makes the braille displays...

2007-05-18 Thread David Sexton
I found who makes 70% of them... kgs-america.com a company in japan.
Maybe someone else has more info about them or other companies...
David


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[BlindHandyMan] Who makes the cells for braille displays

2007-05-18 Thread David Sexton
I used to know which company made the 4 cell modules that you connect together 
to make a braille display, but I've forgotten. I'm certain most if not all the 
braille display manufacturers don't make their own cells fo the braille 
display. So, who makes them?
David


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters

2007-05-17 Thread David Sexton
I doubt a biscuit cutter would help in building stone henge
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 2:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters


  Thanks Max,

  Yes, Janet and I had a good time though I was a little sick for much of it so 
it could have been better.

  We did go to see Stone Henge and I purchased a couple of models, once my 
broken leg is fully recovered I think I'll go looking for big rocks and see 
what I can erect in the back yard 

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 1:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters

  Welcome back Dale. Did you have a nice time in jolly old England?

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
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  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 7:30 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters

  > Hi Dale,
  >
  > I have a Porter Cable which cost me a lot more like $350 about five years 
  > ago. I use a number of techniques, like yours, the blade on mine comes out 
  > through the center of the cutter plate so it is fairly easy to use a ruler 
  > or gauge from either edge of the boards being cut which also means one can 
  > use a block to measure either from the end of a board or from the end of 
  > one cut to the edge of the biscuit cutter.
  >
  > They recommend though spacing closer to 8 inches and this helps where you 
  > want to gain good alignment of the boards being joined.
  >
  > I do sometimes use the tape marking method but more commonly just measure 
  > or gauge mostly because I can never find the tape when I need it.
  >
  > Now that I have a biscuit joiner I use it for all sorts of connection, it 
  > is nice not to have screw holes to fill or cover and it leaves a very nice 
  > undisturbed surface to finish.
  >
  >
  > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Skype DaleLeavens
  > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  >
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Dale Campbell
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:56 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters
  >
  >
  > I have a Craftsman, was about 50 dollars.
  > I looked for one that was basically simple.
  > When I use mine, I lay the two boards I will be joining together face
  > down with the edges to be joined on the outsides...where they touch
  > will be the outside edges of the piece after it is glued up.
  > I clamp these boards together with a small bar clamp.
  > I use a square, clamp it down across the pieces with another small
  > bar clamp, and the the blade of the square as my guide.
  > I remove the depth guide from the biscuit joiner. I use the work
  > bench top as the guide for the depth with the bottom of the biscuit
  > cutter sitting on it.
  > Easy to make sure it is square and it will be the same depth on the
  > opposite side too.
  > . I cut one side with the bottom of the biscuit cutter flat on the
  > bench top and the side of it against the square. Then I repeat the
  > process on the other side. The blade is equal distant from both
  > edges of the biscuit cutter.
  > If I am needing to add another biscuit, usually I put them about
  > every 15 to 18 inches, I move the square down the boards, clamp in
  > place again and repeat the process.
  > By using the table top against the bottom of the biscuit cutter, I
  > know the cuts will be straight into the wood and not angled up or down.
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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  >
  >
  >
  >
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cuttersn

2007-05-17 Thread David Sexton
Of course they used the craig pocket hole jig for the pyramids.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 3:34 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cuttersn


  Them stone biscuits, yummie, eat em for breakfast every day!
  How do you think they build the pyramids! 
  tom



   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] new washers

2007-05-17 Thread David Sexton
I'd just make my own polls with four by fours and some metal braces... Doesn't 
seem too expensive.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 3:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] new washers


  I love to put my things out on a line. Though it is not any cheaper to have a 
clothes line than a dryer with the prices they want for them. I have lived 
places where there was a close line though and I took full advantage of it.

  How hard are they to install yourself. I jus priced the t poles and I seem to 
recall it was about $500 for a set.

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters

2007-05-16 Thread David Sexton
I worry about the cheaper biscuit cutters, but most all of them seem accessible 
to me. As long as there's a mark you can feel at the center line 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 4:05 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit cutters


  Hi All,
  What brand is the most user friendliest?Last evening I looked at a Riobi for 
$99 and I don't think I can use that one. Although there was no where that I 
could really examine it. I had to reach up on a shelf where it was secured and 
could not find a worker.
  In the mean time my doweling jig is still working fine.
  Do want to start looking around there should be some sales for father's day.

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

2007-05-16 Thread David Sexton
It's not the same as the click rule, it seems you can get up to a 64th of an 
inch accuracy with a rotomatic whereas the clickrule you're stuck with only 
every sixteenth which of course is good enough for most woodworking 
applications.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 3:06 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools


  Is the resolution on the roto-rule 1/16? This would make it
  the same as the click rule.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John
  Schwery
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 1:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

  David, the measuring nut has a mark on one side that one
  puts up for 
  reference. Each turn of this nut is a 16th of an inch. The
  6 and a 
  half inch rod is marked every half inch. So, to measure 2
  and a 
  quarter inches, one spins the nut to the 2 inch mark and
  then counts 
  4 turns to get the quarter inch.

  earlier, David Sexton, wrote:

  >How can you tell your measurement is correct with a
  rotomatic? It
  >seems you spin the knut to set the measurement... I guess
  you get 
  >used to how far away from the marks it has to be to be
  exact...
  >- Original Message -
  >From: Dan Rossi
  >To:
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  roups.com
  >Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:12 AM
  >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools
  >
  >David,
  >
  >Looks like you have probably gotten all the answers to your
  question 
  >but I'll just restate that I use a rotoRule that I got from
  the NFB 
  >Materials Center or whatever it's called. I got a set of
  measuring 
  >blocks and angle blocks from Lee Valley. A talking tape
  measure from 
  >Cobolt. A sliding bevel from Lee Valley. Now I just need
  some patience 
  >to take my time and do it all nice and slow and get it
  right the first 
  >time through.
  >
  >--
  >Blue skies.
  >Dan Rossi
  >Carnegie Mellon University.
  >E-Mail: <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >Tel: (412) 268-9081
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
  Date:
  >5/15/2007 10:47 AM

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
  Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM

  To listen to the show archives go to link
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  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

2007-05-16 Thread David Sexton
How can you tell your measurement is correct with a rotomatic? It seems you 
spin the knut to set the measurement... I guess you get used to how far away 
from the marks it has to be to be exact...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools


  David,

  Looks like you have probably gotten all the answers to your question but 
  I'll just restate that I use a rotoRule that I got from the NFB Materials 
  Center or whatever it's called. I got a set of measuring blocks and angle 
  blocks from Lee Valley. A talking tape measure from Cobolt. A sliding 
  bevel from Lee Valley. Now I just need some patience to take my time and 
  do it all nice and slow and get it right the first time through.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

2007-05-16 Thread David Sexton
Do you have a web address for lee valley?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools


  David,

  Looks like you have probably gotten all the answers to your question but 
  I'll just restate that I use a rotoRule that I got from the NFB Materials 
  Center or whatever it's called. I got a set of measuring blocks and angle 
  blocks from Lee Valley. A talking tape measure from Cobolt. A sliding 
  bevel from Lee Valley. Now I just need some patience to take my time and 
  do it all nice and slow and get it right the first time through.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

2007-05-15 Thread David Sexton
I also use a small piece of masking tape near the edge of the board that I've 
jointed straight. Not really necessary, but it reminds me which side I should 
measure from or have against the fence when ripping.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 2:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining


  Now there's a really good hint within a hint. I have been marking the wood 
  and hoping I could hide it on the inside to keep it from showing. Gonna 
  buy a big roll of masking tape.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Darren Brewer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 4:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

  > Hi David
  >
  > I use a similar method for cutting biscuits, I lay strips of masking tape 
  > across the joint depending where I want the biscuits. Now using a thick 
  > black marker I draw a line on each strip of masking tape making sure it 
  > goes across the joint. Then using a craft knife I cut through all the 
  > pieces of tape.It is then quite a simple task to line up the centre mark 
  > on the joiner with the black line on the tape. As I have a problem with 
  > contrast I find the black line shows up really well against almost any 
  > wood. And the beauty of this method is that all you need to do is peel off 
  > the masking tape and there are no lines to sand away.
  >
  > Darren.
  >
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: David Sexton
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 4:29 AM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining
  >
  >
  > many of these machines have a line in the center of them that I line up 
  > with an edge of tape.
  > Here's how I lay out a panel.
  > Put the boards next to each other in the order I want to glue them. Put a 
  > strip of wide masking tape down the right hand side across the boards so 
  > they're taped together. Now, run narrow strips across the boards every 
  > place you want a biscuit. Cut the boards apart with a razor blade. Line 
  > the biscuit cutter up with the edge of the tape closest to the wide strip 
  > of tape. This way no matter which way the board turns all the slots will 
  > line up because they've all been cut towards the wide strip of tape.
  > You might want to tape the boards together when storing them so they 
  > don't get mixed with other taped boards of the same project.
  > Hope this helps.
  > Make sure your hands are both on the machine before you turn it on and 
  > cut. I know a sighted guy who took his finger off with one of these.
  > Tip: clamp a long clamp across the table you're working on and one across 
  > the right side. Put the board to be cut in this l-shape so that you have 
  > something to pres against and the right side because the blade will want 
  > to throw the board to the right.
  > David
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Lenny McHugh
  > To: Handyman-Blind
  > Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:11 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining
  >
  > I am considering on purchasing a biscuit joiner. Is there any tips for 
  > the blind woodworker to use this machine. I currently have a very accurate 
  > doweling jig. Over the past year I have been thinking about the mlcs 
  > router biscuit joining technique but am not sure that it is the best way 
  > to go.
  > I looked at a few biscuit joiner models and am not sure how accurate I 
  > could set them up. If anyone is using one please give me the make/model 
  > and how you use it. You may write me off list if you wish at 
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Thanks
  > Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

2007-05-15 Thread David Sexton
one reason I line up with the edge of the tape is then I can measure exactly 
where I want the biscuits to be by measuring from the end with the wide strip 
of tape to the edge of the piece of tape I'm laying down. Once I've cut the 
biscuits I'll leave the wide strip of tape on just until I'm about to glue 
things up so I know which way everything is supposed to go.
If you're getting a jointer for the first time remember there's a knob to 
select the depth of cut for different sized biscuits. The general concensus is 
to use the biggest biscuit that your project will take placed 2-3 inches from 
the ends and about every 4 to 6 inches along the joint. Don't foret to adjust 
the tool to cut exactly in the middle of the board. 
I think that's about it...
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Darren Brewer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 4:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining


  Hi David

  I use a similar method for cutting biscuits, I lay strips of masking tape 
across the joint depending where I want the biscuits. Now using a thick black 
marker I draw a line on each strip of masking tape making sure it goes across 
the joint. Then using a craft knife I cut through all the pieces of tape.It is 
then quite a simple task to line up the centre mark on the joiner with the 
black line on the tape. As I have a problem with contrast I find the black line 
shows up really well against almost any wood. And the beauty of this method is 
that all you need to do is peel off the masking tape and there are no lines to 
sand away.

  Darren. 

  ----- Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 4:29 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

  many of these machines have a line in the center of them that I line up with 
an edge of tape. 
  Here's how I lay out a panel.
  Put the boards next to each other in the order I want to glue them. Put a 
strip of wide masking tape down the right hand side across the boards so 
they're taped together. Now, run narrow strips across the boards every place 
you want a biscuit. Cut the boards apart with a razor blade. Line the biscuit 
cutter up with the edge of the tape closest to the wide strip of tape. This way 
no matter which way the board turns all the slots will line up because they've 
all been cut towards the wide strip of tape.
  You might want to tape the boards together when storing them so they don't 
get mixed with other taped boards of the same project.
  Hope this helps. 
  Make sure your hands are both on the machine before you turn it on and cut. I 
know a sighted guy who took his finger off with one of these. 
  Tip: clamp a long clamp across the table you're working on and one across the 
right side. Put the board to be cut in this l-shape so that you have something 
to pres against and the right side because the blade will want to throw the 
board to the right.
  David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

  I am considering on purchasing a biscuit joiner. Is there any tips for the 
blind woodworker to use this machine. I currently have a very accurate doweling 
jig. Over the past year I have been thinking about the mlcs router biscuit 
joining technique but am not sure that it is the best way to go.
  I looked at a few biscuit joiner models and am not sure how accurate I could 
set them up. If anyone is using one please give me the make/model and how you 
use it. You may write me off list if you wish at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Thanks 
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining

2007-05-14 Thread David Sexton
many of these machines have a line in the center of them that I line up with an 
edge of tape. 
Here's how I lay out a panel.
Put the boards next to each other in the order I want to glue them. Put a strip 
of wide masking tape down the right hand side across the boards so they're 
taped together. Now, run narrow strips across the boards every place you want a 
biscuit. Cut the boards apart with a razor blade. Line the biscuit cutter up 
with the edge of the tape closest to the wide strip of tape. This way no matter 
which way the board turns all the slots will line up because they've all been 
cut towards the wide strip of tape.
You might want to tape the boards together when storing them so they don't get 
mixed with other taped boards of the same project.
Hope this helps. 
Make sure your hands are both on the machine before you turn it on and cut. I 
know a sighted guy who took his finger off with one of these. 
Tip: clamp a long clamp across the table you're working on and one across the 
right side. Put the board to be cut in this l-shape so that you have something 
to pres against and the right side because the blade will want to throw the 
board to the right.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] biscuit joining


  I am considering on purchasing a biscuit joiner. Is there any tips for the 
blind woodworker to use this machine. I currently have a very accurate doweling 
jig. Over the past year I have been thinking about the mlcs router biscuit 
joining technique but am not sure that it is the best way to go.
  I looked at a few biscuit joiner models and am not sure how accurate I could 
set them up. If anyone is using one please give me the make/model and how you 
use it. You may write me off list if you wish at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Thanks 
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] a great job for you inventors in the blind world

2007-05-14 Thread David Sexton
The problem with flexible drain lines is that they will clog more easily and 
such. They work fine in washers because only water goes down them. Who knows 
what goes down a kitchen sink drain.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 6:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a great job for you inventors in the blind world


  Well, pass that wine over here to help 'em think of the solution. You know 
role away dishwisher and for that matter washing machines use sort of flexible 
drain lines, but failing that, down size the drain to fit a garden hose or just 
drain the sink in to the yard or a bucket that she can empty from time to time 
over your head, could help with the wine drinking.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 2:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a great job for you inventors in the blind world

  Be the first to invent and patent a roll away kitchen sink" I thought of 
  this today when my wife leaves the kitchen sink to walk down the hall 
  and around the corner and out the back door to put more barbie sauce on 
  the ribs which were cooking on the back porch. I am imagining a sink on 
  roller wheels like those on shopping carts. the flexible hot and cold 
  water pipes. now the problem comes is I do not think they make flexible 
  pipe for the drains. give it some thought and come back with some 
  Positive thoughts. . Imagine if you would. a sink assembly which would 
  unlatch to swing away allowing one to exit their kitchen where it 
  normally would be a window but is now a well insulated door onto an 
  access ramp. . For those of you who are thinking, yes, I've had a bit of 
  wine but still able to think. thanks.Lee

  -- 
  Insufficient facts always invite danger.
  -- Spock, "Space Seed", stardate 3141.9

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] 3 quarter inch holes?

2007-05-13 Thread David Sexton
it's not clear if you meant 3/4 inch deep wholes, or 3/4 inch round holes.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 3 quarter inch holes?


  Either a hole saw or a boring bit, either are for your drill. The hole saw
  may as well be a high quality item because once you buy it you'll find you
  may want to use it again and again. And you can buy a decent set of boring
  bits with a ¾" bit included for about $12.
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  God made man before woman so as to give him time to think of an answer for
  her first question.



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
So, it's possible to direct the plywood where you want it and still know where 
the blade is in relation to your hands and the lines? I've never tried a 
scrollsaw before. 
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:39 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes


  Hi, Well I recently got one of the raised drawing boards and I have bin 
experimenting with it. What I bin doing is I draw a shape on a piece of paper 
using the raised drawing board and then I tape that on a piece of plywood and 
cut it out with my scroll saw. Well it works but it takes a lot of time and 
practice and lots and lots of sanding... Hope I can get better as time goes on 
and more times I do it the easier it seems to get
  ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 2:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

  I have a delta unisaw, a jointer, plainer, drill press, router and router 
table. I'm wondering if some other tools will be worth buying. Here are a few 
random questions I have.
  Is a scrollsaw of any use to a blind person?
  Can a blind person resaw wood with a bandsaw? I'm tired of wasting wood!
  How do blind people cut out shapes. I could use a router and a template I 
suppose, but how do I cut a template?
  I've used a lathe duplicator to copy a template, can a blind person make 
freehand turnings?
  How about sharpening all sorts of tools?
  David

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] hand tools, was Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
I'm too impatient to wait for wood to dry. Lol. Waiting a year for wood to be 
useable... No thanks.
  - Original Message - 
  From: GenePoole 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:46 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hand tools, was Scroll saws, band saws, cutting 
shapes


  Problem is, too many modern folks like their table saws and power tools. Bit 
give em n axe and a hatchet and usually you're average backyard woodworker is 
lost. If you're building a cabin in the wilds of Alaska, you're not gonna have 
access to electricity too often unless you run a generator all the time. Which 
up there costs a lot of money. I do not have the knack for woodworking, but I 
have seen some amazing stuff made by hand tools, and far too often the power 
tool jockeys belittle and deride the traditionalists. The great antique bureaus 
of yesteryear were not built with power tools from home depot, remember. And 
while it did take years, to make one of them, they're still around 2 and 300 
years later. Let them speak for themselves.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 1:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

  you sure don't!
  - Original Message - 
  From: "GenePoole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 1:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

  > Do what they did in the old days .. use a hatchet and a bowie knife. I'm 
  > not kidding either, they give you more accuracy than a table saw. If you 
  > know what you're doing. Which I don't. But I know that you can build a 
  > house with nothing but an axe, a hatchet and a good knife. No joke.
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: David Sexton
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 12:12 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes
  >
  >
  > I have a delta unisaw, a jointer, plainer, drill press, router and router 
  > table. I'm wondering if some other tools will be worth buying. Here are a 
  > few random questions I have.
  > Is a scrollsaw of any use to a blind person?
  > Can a blind person resaw wood with a bandsaw? I'm tired of wasting wood!
  > How do blind people cut out shapes. I could use a router and a template I 
  > suppose, but how do I cut a template?
  > I've used a lathe duplicator to copy a template, can a blind person make 
  > freehand turnings?
  > How about sharpening all sorts of tools?
  > David
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the new archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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(Ya

Re: [BlindHandyMan] louvered doors

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
I would cut 45 degree or greater slots into two square posts and fit the slats 
into these and then glue some sort of thin trim over the posts to hide the 
slots. I wouldn't glue the slats into place, but the top and bottom rails to 
the posts or styles to allow for expantion of the slats.
Or, you could just use pegboard for the back.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] louvered doors


  Has anyone made louvered doors? I am in the planning stages for a new future 
project. I want to make a small shoe cabinet. I am concerned a little about 
ventilation.
  I have a few choices. The simplest is to let most of the back open and use 
panel doors on the front or louvered or slotted doors.
  I will be making a paper record holder for my Dr. I have been trying to find 
a project that I could use sassafras wood and think I now found two.

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] Scroll saws, band saws, cutting shapes

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
I have a delta unisaw, a jointer, plainer, drill press, router and router 
table. I'm wondering if some other tools will be worth buying. Here are a few 
random questions I have.
Is a scrollsaw of any use to a blind person?
Can a blind person resaw wood with a bandsaw? I'm tired of wasting wood!
How do blind people cut out shapes. I could use a router and a template I 
suppose, but how do I cut a template?
I've used a lathe duplicator to copy a template, can a blind person make 
freehand turnings?
How about sharpening all sorts of tools?
David



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
I've seen the rotomatic, but never used one. Can anyone offer a comparison of 
the rotomatic and the clickruler? Clickrules seem must faster, but can only 
give you 1/16" accuracy.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 1:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools


  This may be overobvious, but a high quality square, with tactile (the good 
  ones for sighties have fingernail notches) is a necessity, 4ft for roofing 
  or just a 1 ft. You can always use your adapted ruler to make the 
  measurement, but (embarrassed) when I started using a square, things 
  started coming out nicer.

  On Thu, 10 May 2007, Lenny McHugh wrote:

  > Hello David,
  > I never used a click ruler.I have a talking measuring tape that I use a lot.
  > I have the original roto matic measuring device. I believe that NFB sells
  > that item. I have some metal blocks that were made for me by a machinist
  > friend. Since then I purchased the brass setup bars from mlcs. For setting
  > up my router table I highly recommend them.
  > My talking measuring tape was purchased England it can now be purchased in
  > the Us.
  > I also use an audible level made by the same manufacturer as the talking
  > tape.
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "David Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 9:37 AM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools
  >
  >
  > I've done quite a bit of woodworking using only my clickruler.
  > My question today is what other adaptive tools have been useful to you such
  > as talking measuring tapes, audible levels, metal blocks of certain
  > thicknesses, etc. What is useful, where did you get the tool, etc.
  > Thanks.
  > David
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the new archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
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[BlindHandyMan] Adaptive woodworking tools

2007-05-10 Thread David Sexton
I've done quite a bit of woodworking using only my clickruler.
My question today is what other adaptive tools have been useful to you such as 
talking measuring tapes, audible levels, metal blocks of certain thicknesses, 
etc. What is useful, where did you get the tool, etc. 
Thanks.
David


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To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] Talking multi-meters

2007-05-09 Thread David Sexton
I've seen the demo of a talking multi-meter on the files section, but it 
doesn't ever say what brand or model it is. Can anyone give me info on where to 
get a talking multi-meter and what brands work best?
If not talking, what about computer interface multi-meters like fluke 89.
David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Taps and Fawcett Are Loose

2007-04-30 Thread David Sexton
usually there is a plastic nut that holds the whole thing on. Sometimes it's 
really narrow and hard to get to. Sometimes there are two on either side and 
sometimes just one in the middle. It's a bit like the plastic nuts used to 
secure a toilet tank to the base of a toilet.
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: charlie macdonald 
  To: blind handyman 
  Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 5:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Taps and Fawcett Are Loose


  Greetings: I have a question concerning our kitchen taps and 
  fawcett that I hope I can describe. It is one unit .. that is 
  taps and fawcett are all attached to a metal base that sits on 
  the back of the sink. My wife noticed that the unit has come 
  loose - it has and when I feel under the sink there is no 
  apparent place where it may have been attached to the 
  sink/counter. I did notice a piece of metal that had probably 
  been a clip or something but it was so rusted I could not figure 
  where it had been attached. There are three holes .. one for 
  the hot one for the cold water lines and a hole that is directly 
  under the fawcett. I know something is going to break unless I 
  secure the unit. Any ideas what I need to ask for at Home Depot 
  to anchor this again? Our sink at work has a very similar 
  arrangement but when I reach in I just can't tell what is 
  securing the unit.

  I hope this was understandable.

  Many thanks,
  Charlie Macdonald
  Halifax, Nova Scotia
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]


   


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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

2007-04-24 Thread David Sexton
hmm, if I remember correctly the washer drain hose is about two inches 
across... I suppose you could use old vacuum hoses. Strange that the store 
didn't have any. I've seen tubing that big on huge spools at my hardware store 
here. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 5:06 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gray water


  There is a downgrade from the height of the washer to the ground. The
  walkway is flat.But what kind of flexible tubing will fit the width of the
  outlet hose? I had gone to a couple of hardware stores but there was no
  tubing that size.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of David Sexton
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  if the walkway slants you could use pipe onto the walkway then something
  like a rain gutter to guide the water from there to the garden, this is
  assuming, of course, that it's all downhill... 
  What about flixible tubing like your dust collecting? That would be easier
  to disconnect/reconnect...
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 2:54 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  The problem with the pipe is that I would have to put it up and take it down
  after each washday because the pipe would have to connect to the outlet hose
  and go out the back door to the garage and then stretch across a walkeway.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:34 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  Hi, How about using some PVC pipe and at the end of the run you get the PVC
  with holes in it so the water will go out on the ground...
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 2:07 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  Locally, we are having our driest year ever recorded. I am trying to figure
  out a way to run the water from my washer to my garden. Thirty years ago,
  when I lived in the desert, I had a rigid industrial hose to do this. But
  when I moved to the coast, that hose stayed in the desert. A couple of
  years ago, I tried a firehose but because it was collapsible, the washer
  couldn't pump the water down the hose. As it is now, the water drains into
  the garage wash basin. The washer is at least 50 feet from the garden. Any
  suggestions?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  __ NOD32 2215 (20070424) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com <http://www.eset.com> 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

2007-04-24 Thread David Sexton
if the walkway slants you could use pipe onto the walkway then something like a 
rain gutter to guide the water from there to the garden, this is assuming, of 
course, that it's all downhill... 
What about flixible tubing like your dust collecting? That would be easier to 
disconnect/reconnect...
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 2:54 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gray water


  The problem with the pipe is that I would have to put it up and take it down
  after each washday because the pipe would have to connect to the outlet hose
  and go out the back door to the garage and then stretch across a walkeway.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:34 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  Hi, How about using some PVC pipe and at the end of the run you get the PVC
  with holes in it so the water will go out on the ground...
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 2:07 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gray water

  Locally, we are having our driest year ever recorded. I am trying to figure
  out a way to run the water from my washer to my garden. Thirty years ago,
  when I lived in the desert, I had a rigid industrial hose to do this. But
  when I moved to the coast, that hose stayed in the desert. A couple of
  years ago, I tried a firehose but because it was collapsible, the washer
  couldn't pump the water down the hose. As it is now, the water drains into
  the garage wash basin. The washer is at least 50 feet from the garden. Any
  suggestions?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  __ NOD32 2215 (20070424) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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