Re: [Cameramakers] Cute little HP scanner; potential 4x5 back? Hmmm...

2002-09-20 Thread Alan Zinn

At 05:59 PM 9/19/2002 -0700, you wrote:

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi,
 
 I'm trying to figure out how this would get done. 
 Wouldn't you need to turn 
 off the scanner lamp?
...snip...

Yah, you need to turn off, disconnect, or cover the
lamp.  I've read about a couple of projects like this,
including (drat, lost the web address) a fellow who
turned a flat bed scanner into a panoramic camera by
taking the guts out, disconnecting the light, mounting
the sensor onto a pivot with a lens, and gimmicking
the original motor  belt to pivot the lens.  Looked
like it worked pretty well, and since it used the
original electronics  driver, it was real easy to
use.  I know one issue with doing this is that many
scanner sensors are designed with baffles to only see
light coming straight in, so light coming in at an
angle (like most lens cameras have) isn't seen.  I
gotta get a working scanner to gut to try this,
though.

-- Philip

All,

That was Andy Davidahazy at RIT.  You can dig it out here somewhere:

http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/photoforum.html

AZ
Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
http://www.panoramacamera.us
 or
keyword.com lookaround


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[Cameramakers] How to do it Booklets

2002-09-20 Thread JIM KETCHESON



I have found in my archives a series of booklets about 5 x 6.5
published by The Focal Press in the 40's I would judge.
The titles are
All about Making Darkroom Gadgets
All about Building your own Enlarger( 2 copies)
All about Portraits
All about the Second Lamp
All about Exposure
All about lighting for Glamour
All about Negative Retouching
All about Filing
All about Night Photography
All about Improving Negatives
All about Print Finishing(2 Copies)
All about Against The Sun
All about Composition
All about Enlarging Gadgets
All about Lighting Gadgets
All about Making Camera Gadgets 
These are in pretty fair condition although one cover has become
detached from the booklet. These run from 40 to 60 pages.
In addition I found
Making an enlarger from functional plans
Guide to Retouching negatives and prints (Modern Camera Guide Series)

I no longer have any use for these and am reluctant to go the ebay
route.
I need to know
1. Are they of use to any of you chaps
2. Can they produce a little pocket money for me.
3. If they go to someone it would be all or nothing as I cannot afford
the time to send them one at a time.

Your advice and help is solicited and will be appreciated.

Jim Ketcheson
Belleville, Canada

Help is solicited and appreciated.

I also can see a couple of more boxes in the back of the cupboard but am
too tired to lug them out today.

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[Cameramakers] virus alert to fellows list members

2002-09-20 Thread Philip J. McCourt

My computer has been under attach, someone has been trying to pass the 
Klez virus into it. So far my virus program has caught them all. I only 
send emails through the list, I never send them directly to a list 
member. If you should get an email from Philsan or Phil McCourt off 
list do not open it.

Respectfully,
Phil McCourt

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[Cameramakers] Scanner now camera

2002-09-20 Thread Ken Watson

I tried placing my flatbed behind  8 X 10. It worked very poorly.  As was
explained to me by several others before my test.

First, the sensor needs to be directly behind the lens , on the centerline.
My scans were dark at each end with a circle in the center.  So you will see
by looking at:
http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/photoforum.html
he rotates the lens / sensor assembly. Typical of panoramic cameras but also
required to keep the sensor centered behind the lens.

To find the drive hardware, the guts out of a scanner are a good start. Find
an old inkjet printer, we all have a couple of those or are found for
nothing in garage sales.

The other issue is exposure. The good news is that daylight is much brighter
than the lighting inside the scanner but out side light will easily over
drive the sensor.  The bad news is...look and the bulb. Notice how blue the
light looks?  That is because the sensor has maybe 1/2 to 1/4 the
sensitivity to blue. This is made up in the bulb having more blue phosphors.
You will need to color adjust after scanning.  If there is no bulb they use
LED's

Also since the sensors were not really designed for sunlight you will get
internal reflections off the glass cover and the sensors package as the
glass is does not have antireflective coatings.You can try and minimize this
by masking off the glass and just leave the slit over the sensor clear.

The above was for lens reduction CCD based scanners

As for specifically the 4 X 5 HP Scanner.  Sorry to say but this use's the
cheapest of all scanner sensors. About the only way the sensor in this unit
will work is scanning the image off your ground glass.  Because it already
has what is called a self focusing lens as part of the sensor assembly. It
uses LED's for the three different colors when scanning, and has a depth of
field of only 1 or 2 millimeters.  CRITICAL focus issue.

The lens is plastic.  It is really a relatively long tube for each pixel
so its resolution is not good.  About the only good thing I can say is that
it might be portable.

I could be wrong about a few points so if you have one just set it up behind
your camera, throw a dark cloth over the back to keep light out and start
trying to scan...even with the led's working. This will give some idea of
the issues. Start at f16.  If you are trying to scan the ground glass the
led's will need to be turned off .  Maybe not easy to do.


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[Cameramakers] Re: CHEAP BALL SOCKET?? (filmpro)

2002-09-20 Thread john frost

I made my stands from 2 inch pvc pipe. Three 90 degree elbows for feet,
two t fitting for the base. one for the three legs, one for the
vertical pipe.
john (:)
-
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:41:13 -0700
From: filmpro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Cameramakers] CHEAP BALL SOCKET??
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi!

I'm building some flourescent lighting like kino Flo. I'm trying to 
figure an inexpensive way to connect the light unit, to a repurposed 
broken tripod (no head).

A ball socket which could be locked at a specific angle would be great. 
So, where can i find such a thing cheaply. Or even make one. I will need 
6-8 so price does become a factor.

Also, Any ideas on cheap light stands? Need to be transportable.

luckily I kept this broken tripod:-)

Mac
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Re: [Cameramakers] fluorescent lamps for b/w LF cold head enlarger

2002-09-20 Thread Gene Johnson

Did we ever talk about using LED's for an enlarger?  They have some pretty
bright ones now.  Maybe a real dense array of say white,blue,green yellow
red.  Maybe some could be turned off to change contrast? Just wondering out
loud.

Gene
- Original Message -
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 10:01 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] fluorescent lamps for b/w LF cold head enlarger


 Hello:

 I am curious if anyone has ever used 'tri-phosphor' lamps for enlarging.

 I'm interested in an 8x10 enlarger for b/w only, on a budget.

 I started looking into low pressure pulsed xenon - lotta heat, and nearly
 obsolete, $100 for 750W lamp, $3000 for new commercial ballast/power
supply,
 and it's not a friendly prospect - 52 V at about 18 amps plus 1 volt
 spike to ionize gas...so, I think I'll look into other approaches.

 Ansel Adams used massive array of logo-less incandescent lamps - heat
again.

 I'm pondering either full spectrum fluorescent (linear tubes only as far
as
 I know), or tri-phosphor complact fluorescent (3 spectral peaks spread out
 over visible spectrum depending on color temperature, 2700K, 3500 K, 4100K
 and 6500K available (CRI 82, but that may not be relevant to film). I got
 spectral plot of the 6500K one today because I was unfamiliar with that
one,
 and the spikey spectrum of the tri-phoshor type does make me
nervous...hence
 my request for others' fluorescent experience.

 What I'm considering is using seveal GE Biax (folded tube) 18 or 27W lamps
 for an 8 x 10 or 11x 14 head, each driven with a high frequency electronic
 ballast. Driving the lamps above 15kHz eliminates the 120 Hz (100 for 50
Hz
 countries) flicker and produces about 15% more lumens than line frequency.
I
 have access to a manufacturer of small electronic ballasts (I used to work
 there). I am considering running them from a DC supply with individual
 regulators so the light output could be adjusted for each lamp.

 My main worry is the strong spectral peaks in this type of lamp. The
intent
 of this lamp design is that the brain is supposed to 'fill in the spectral
 gap', and THINK they are full spectrum lamps.

 Thanks in advance for responses.

 Murray

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