Re: Stus-List Enterprise Crew -- Charity Event

2013-03-06 Thread Colin Kilgour
Is this sailing or CC-related?

I'm sure it's a great cause, but we can't start using this forum for
fundraising.

Cheers
Colin



On 3/4/13, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:
 All,

   One of my crew is raising funds to go towards children's cancer 
 research.

   Please see:
 http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/2013/03/captains-log-stardate-11317_4.html

   If you can find it within your hearts (and your pockets) to help out, it
 would be greatly appreciated.

   
   All the best,

   Edd


   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website







-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: Stus-List Hatch for sale - now big winches

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
Rick,The shifter is on the base of the winch so the Winchmate would not interfere. And I agree...lots cheaper than a new winch!!Harry Hallgring
MIRAGEOn Mar 02, 2013, at 09:44 AM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:Yup, I am adding the Winchmate conversion kits with spring jaws to my Barient 32s. At $650 a kit it isn’t cheap, but it is a lot less than a pair of Harken 56s or Lewmar 58s.Practical Sailor wrote a very favorable article on the conversion kits, and their tester was Ralph Narano who had them installed on his personal boat. So I’m pretty confident they will work out for me.There is one boat locally that has them installed on a pair of Barient 28s. The owners like them, but they are relatively new sailors so they may not have a real standard for comparison to purpose built self-tailing winches.How is the 3rd speed activated on your 32-3s? The jaws and line stripper in the kit cover the entire top of the winch drum. Will this interfere with the 3rd speed?Rick BrassWashington, NCFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry HallgringSent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 8:41 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Hatch for sale - now big winchesRick,I have been looking at Winchmates for my Barient 32 - 3 speed primaries. Is that your intention?Harry___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Robert Abbott

Edd:

If your windows have frames and are fastened with screws and/or nuts  
bolts, butyl tape would work just fine.  I have no experience with the 
3M tape.


If your windows are like mine and sit flush with the cabin top with a 
curve, I don't think butyl tape won't hold them in place.


I replaced my windows are a few years back and used Sika 295 UV with the 
primer..no problems to date, happy with the Sika product.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/03/06 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay wrote:

All,

Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape to 
fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?


I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the job 
very well. 
(http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952rt=sx=0y=0) 



I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course.

Yeah yeah, I know. Another CC Windows topic. Sue me.
All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website 
http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/






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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
I used the 3M double sided tape and Sika 295 on Mirage with excellent results. 
Be sure to scuff and prime both surfaces...you'll never get it off!  The tape 
acts as a clamp and spacer to ensure a consistent sealant thickness. 
 pictures to follow...

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2013, at 9:47 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 All,
 
   Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape to 
 fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
 
   I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the job 
 very well. 
 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952rt=sx=0y=0)
  
 
   I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
 
   Yeah yeah, I know. Another CC Windows topic. Sue me. 
   
   
   All the best,
 
   Edd
 
 
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca wrote:
 
 Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing 
 to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The 
 same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together 
 with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing 
 it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
 I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is 
 the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 
 
 I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!
 
 Cheers
 Brent Driedger
 CC 27-v
 Lake Winnipeg
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 All, 
 I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
 years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
 at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
 torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
 bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
 lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
 ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
 tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
 discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
 enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
 One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
 primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
 enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
 so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
 soon. 
 
 Kim Brown
 Trust Me!!! 35-3 
 
 
 
 
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Firewater
I would second Bob's comments.  I used buytl tape on aluminum framed windows on 
the Catalina I used to own and would never use anything else in that type of 
application.  However, the reason it works so well is that it is not adhesive, 
so you can get the windows off again to adjust the seal if necessary.  It 
definitely won't work if that is the only thing holding the window on.

Jim Reinardy
CC 30-2 Firewater
Milwaukee, WI

On Mar 6, 2013, at 9:10 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote:

 Edd:
 
 If your windows have frames and are fastened with screws and/or nuts  bolts, 
 butyl tape would work just fine.  I have no experience with the 3M tape.
 
 If your windows are like mine and sit flush with the cabin top with a curve, 
 I don't think butyl tape won't hold them in place.
 
 I replaced my windows are a few years back and used Sika 295 UV with the 
 primer..no problems to date, happy with the Sika product.
 
 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 On 2013/03/06 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay wrote:
 All,
 
  Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape to fasten 
 their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
 
  I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the job very 
 well. 
 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952rt=sx=0y=0)
  
 
  I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
 
   Yeah yeah, I know. Another CC Windows topic. Sue me. 
  
  
  All the best,
 
  Edd
 
 
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Indigo
Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and
the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up
where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.

 

Jonathan

Indigo 35-III

Southport CT

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

All,

 

Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape
to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?

 

I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do
the job very well.
(http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/Al
l-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-S
ided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/Al
l-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-S
ided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952rt=sx=0y=0 rt=sx=0y=0) 

 

I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 

 

  Yeah yeah, I know. Another CC Windows topic. Sue me. 

  

  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/  Enterprise's Captain's
Log Website

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca wrote:





Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing
to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The
same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together
with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing
it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is
the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 

I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!

Cheers
Brent Driedger
CC 27-v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote:




All, 
I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
soon. 

Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3 




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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
Jonathan,
The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill 
any irregularities. 

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2013, at 11:43 AM, Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us wrote:

 Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and 
 the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up 
 where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.
  
 Jonathan
 Indigo 35-III
 Southport CT
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
 Schillay
 Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows
  
 All,
  
 Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape 
 to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
  
 I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the 
 job very well. 
 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952rt=sx=0y=0)
  
  
 I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
  
   Yeah yeah, I know. Another CC Windows topic. Sue me. 
  
  
   All the best,
  
   Edd
  
  
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
  
  
  
  
  
 
  
 On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca wrote:
 
 
 Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing 
 to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The 
 same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together 
 with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing 
 it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
 I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is 
 the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 
 
 I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!
 
 Cheers
 Brent Driedger
 CC 27-v
 Lake Winnipeg
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 
 All, 
 I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
 years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
 at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
 torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
 bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
 lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
 ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
 tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
 discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
 enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
 One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
 primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
 enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
 so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
 soon. 
 
 Kim Brown
 Trust Me!!! 35-3 
 
 
 
 
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
Portlight Replacement PicturesHarryMIRAGEOn Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:Jonathan,The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill any irregularities.HarrySent from my iPhone___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Knowles Rich
So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just the 
3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever and no 
major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in place?

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:

Portlight Replacement Pictures

Harry
MIRAGE

On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:

 Jonathan,
 The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
 fill any irregularities. 
 
 Harry
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Andrew Burton
Harry, You're an inspiration! Nice job!
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 6, 2013, at 2:00 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:

 Portlight Replacement Pictures
 
 Harry
 MIRAGE
 
 On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 Jonathan,
 The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
 fill any irregularities. 
 
 Harry
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Replacement Rudders

2013-03-06 Thread Jeffrey Nelson
I've seen what they can do. They're pretty good. The heart of the business is 
building rudders for
skiff's. They ship world wide. I've seen a couple of CC rudders that they've 
done and they look good,
and weigh about half of the original.

--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 CC 30

On 03/05/13, Michael Dean  md...@ca.inter.net wrote:
 Here is a link to what used to be Phil's Foils in Ottawa. Looks like he has
 rudder for CC 35 (depending on which model 35). Probably less expensive
 depending on whether he can reuse the inner skeleton. I have no personal
 knowledge of quality. 
 
 http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/
 
 Mike Dean
 CC 27 Mk III
 Oakville, ON
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
 cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
 Sisson
 Sent: March-05-13 2:24 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Introducing me...
 
 Hello Fellow Listers,
 
 Allow me to introduce myselfmy name is Joseph Sisson and I am the proud
 owner of Silent Runner a 1975 CC 35 MKII...hull # 350.
 I purchased her last August. She was on the hard in a marina on the North
 Channel of Lake Huron.
 After a couple months of testing, cleaning, replacing, retrofitting,
 restoring etc...I set out on what was supposed to be a voyage down Lake
 Michigan and into the river systems exiting at Mobile Alabama and into the
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 The plan was that I would sail the boat to the Caribbean and eventually
 through the Panama Canal and onto Vancouver BC Canada which is where I want
 the boat to end up.
 Long story short I ran aground on the evening of the first day of my voyage,
 was rescued (taken off the boat) by the Ontario Provincial Police (Marine
 Unit) after several unsuccessful attempts to pull the boat off the rocks.
 After four loong days of waiting for the wind to die down so
 that we (I hired a local fisherman and his boat) could get back to my boat,
 I was overjoyed to find her still afloat.
 We attached a 400 foot line to the main halyard and pulled Silent Runner
 from the top of the mast until she heeled over enough to float her off the
 rocks.
 I wish I had know how to do that on the night that I ran aground and would
 have tried that with the OPP boat. (You learn these things as you go.)
 
   Photos of the rescue of the boat can be found at:
 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=155629101249005set=a.155628851249030
 .52955.124818477663401type=3permPage=1
 
 Although the rudder was badly damaged, I still had steerage and motored SR
 to Gore Bay where she was hauled and is now awaiting my return in the
 spring.
 While at Gore Bay I got to know the service manager of a sailboat charter
 company there and shared with him the story of my running aground.
 After inspecting the damage to the rudder and the hull his comment was:
 
   If that had been one of our boats (they have mostly late model
 sailboats to offer there clients) if would have been in pieces.
 
 So I am very glad that I choose to purchase a CC and Silent Runner's story
 is testament to the solid construction of these boats (something that I do
 not wish to test again).
 
 I have been monitoring this forum and reading the postings for months now
 and am only now chiming in.
 I found the CC Photo Album website and this forum while researching
 potential sailboats to purchase.
 I suggest that the website and this active forum of CC owners should be
 included as a selling feature with any CC. (Great resource and great
 people!)
 
 Through the list I was informed of the Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes
 and have contacted them to obtain drawings of the CC 35 MKII (still waiting
 for the results of their search).
 Are there any 35 MKII owners who have obtained drawings of this design?
 I am considering doing the repairs to the rudder myself after receiving
 quotes of $4K and $5K from two companies.
 I welcome any suggestions or comments as to the feasibility of doing the
 repair myself.
 
 To Jim Watts re hatch replacement: through this list I was informed of
 Hammerhead Nautical Systems in Toronto.
 I recently sent them the glass for my hatch on my Edel 665 (I am currently
 restoring her to like new condition).
 They are going to supply a new glass (with my original hardware attached)
 and new gaskets for about $300.
 The link to their website is: http://www.hhns.ca
 
 To Kim Brown re an easier third choice for leaking windows: you might want
 to consider butyl tape.
 Also through this list I was informed of this product.
 An informative article with photos can be found at:
 http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-b
 utyl-tape.html
 
 
 Sorry for running on so long
 
 Cheers,
 Joseph Sisson
 s/v Silent Runner
 1975 CC 35 MKII
 Hull #350 (second last 35 MKII off the line)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album 

Re: Stus-List Replacement Rudders

2013-03-06 Thread Knowles Rich
don't you need weight in the stern for traction?

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-03-06, at 3:29 PM, Jeffrey Nelson nelson2...@eastlink.ca wrote:

I've seen what they can do.  They're pretty good.  The heart of the business is 
building rudders for
skiff's.  They ship world wide.  I've seen a couple of CC rudders that they've 
done and they look good,
and weigh about half of the original.

--
Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   CC 30

On 03/05/13, Michael Dean md...@ca.inter.net wrote:
 
 Here is a link to what used to be Phil's Foils in Ottawa.  Looks like he has
 rudder for CC 35 (depending on which model 35).  Probably less expensive
 depending on whether he can reuse the inner skeleton.  I have no personal
 knowledge of quality. 
 
 http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/
 
 Mike Dean
 CC 27 Mk III
 Oakville, ON
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
 Sisson
 Sent: March-05-13 2:24 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Introducing me...
 
 Hello Fellow Listers,
 
 Allow me to introduce myselfmy name is Joseph Sisson and I am the proud
 owner of Silent Runner a 1975 CC 35 MKII...hull # 350.
 I purchased her last August.  She was on the hard in a marina on the North
 Channel of Lake Huron.
 After a couple months of testing, cleaning, replacing, retrofitting,
 restoring etc...I set out on what was supposed to be a voyage down Lake
 Michigan and into the river systems exiting at Mobile Alabama and into the
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 The plan was that I would sail the boat to the Caribbean and eventually
 through the Panama Canal and onto Vancouver BC Canada which is where I want
 the boat to end up.
 Long story short I ran aground on the evening of the first day of my voyage,
 was rescued (taken off the boat) by the Ontario Provincial Police (Marine
 Unit) after several unsuccessful attempts to pull the boat off the rocks.
 After four loong days of waiting for the wind to die down so
 that we (I hired a local fisherman and his boat) could get back to my boat,
 I was overjoyed to find her still afloat.
 We attached a 400 foot line to the main halyard and pulled Silent Runner
 from the top of the mast until she heeled over enough to float her off the
 rocks.
 I wish I had know how to do that on the night that I ran aground and would
 have tried that with the OPP boat.  (You learn these things as you go.)
 
 Photos of the rescue of the boat can be found at:
 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=155629101249005set=a.155628851249030
 .52955.124818477663401type=3permPage=1
 
 Although the rudder was badly damaged, I still had steerage and motored SR
 to Gore Bay where she was hauled and is now awaiting my return in the
 spring.
 While at Gore Bay I got to know the service manager of a sailboat charter
 company there and shared with him the story of my running aground.
 After inspecting the damage to the rudder and the hull his comment was:
 
 If that had been one of our boats (they have mostly late model
 sailboats to offer there clients) if would have been in pieces.
 
 So I am very glad that I choose to purchase a CC and Silent Runner's story
 is testament to the solid construction of these boats (something that I do
 not wish to test again).
 
 I have been monitoring this forum and reading the postings for months now
 and am only now chiming in.
 I found the CC Photo Album website and this forum while researching
 potential sailboats to purchase.
 I suggest that the website and this active forum of CC owners should be
 included as a selling feature with any CC. (Great resource and great
 people!)
 
 Through the list I was informed of the Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes
 and have contacted them to obtain drawings of the CC 35 MKII (still waiting
 for the results of their search).
 Are there any 35 MKII owners who have obtained drawings of this design?
 I am considering doing the repairs to the rudder myself after receiving
 quotes of $4K and $5K from two companies.
 I welcome any suggestions or comments as to the feasibility of doing the
 repair myself.
 
 To Jim Watts re hatch replacement:  through this list I was informed of
 Hammerhead Nautical Systems in Toronto.
 I recently sent them the glass for my hatch on my Edel 665 (I am currently
 restoring her to like new condition).
 They are going to supply a new glass (with my original hardware attached)
 and new gaskets for about $300.
 The link to their website is:  http://www.hhns.ca
 
 To Kim Brown re an easier third choice for leaking windows:  you might want
 to consider butyl tape.
 Also through this list I was informed of this product.
 An informative article with photos can be found at:
 http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-b
 utyl-tape.html
 
 
 Sorry for running on so long
 
 Cheers,
 Joseph Sisson
 s/v Silent Runner
 1975 CC 35 MKII
 Hull #350 (second last 35 MKII off the 

Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
1. prep/sand boat and plexi.2. Sika prime both surfaces3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening4. mask everything5. lay bead of sealant on boat6. set ports7. finish sealant8. remove tape when tackyI don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt. The tape holds it in place (approx 1/16" bedding). Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without incident. I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the same way and it lasts. Sika is good stuff.Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.comOn Mar 06, 2013, at 02:05 PM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just the 3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever and no major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in place?Rich KnowlesINDIGO LF38Halifax, NS.On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:Portlight Replacement PicturesHarryMIRAGEOn Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:Jonathan,The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill any irregularities.HarrySent from my iPhone___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Knowles Rich
Looks great. Nice work:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-03-06, at 3:48 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:

1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
2. Sika prime both surfaces
3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
4. mask everything
5. lay bead of sealant on boat
6. set ports
7. finish sealant
8. remove tape when tacky

I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it in 
place (approx 1/16 bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without 
incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the 
same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com

On Mar 06, 2013, at 02:05 PM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just 
 the 3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever 
 and no major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in 
 place?
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO LF38
 Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 Portlight Replacement Pictures
 
 Harry
 MIRAGE
 
 On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 Jonathan,
 The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
 fill any irregularities. 
 
 Harry
 
 Sent from my iPhone

 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Frederick G Street
Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try 
that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding 
and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:

 1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
 2. Sika prime both surfaces
 3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
 4. mask everything
 5. lay bead of sealant on boat
 6. set ports
 7. finish sealant
 8. remove tape when tacky
 
 I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it 
 in place (approx 1/16 bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE 
 without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J 
 Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
 Harry Hallgring
 hhallgr...@icloud.com

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Stus-List Centerboard 35-3

2013-03-06 Thread Kim Brown
All,
Centerboard saga continues. We were able to get the board down and reach the
attachment point but the pin itself is broken.  There are two straps with
one on each side of the board, they appear intact. But the pin that runs
between is broken.  We can grind the remnants out but there appears no easy
way to replace it? Even with the board down the straps are up in the keel
cavity and there is no clearance outboard of the straps. Anyone been down
this path? Possible choices seem to be 1) just pin the board up and forget
about it (for the moment this is what we are going to do so I can splash);
2)punch the pivot pin on the board out and drop it; 3) grind the nose of the
keel a bit to allow the board to pivot forward more than usual and enough to
expose the strap and replace the pin normally. Not sure it this can be done
without getting into the lead too deep-; 4) getting creative on the hardware
front-some sort of pin/bolt that will fit between the straps (approx 1.5)
and the then expand (spring? threaded?)to pop into the strap holes on either
side. Of course it needs to be stainless, handle real weight and stay
expanded.Thoughts? Voice of experience?  Anyone tried #3?

Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3



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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Indigo
I did my windows last year using the Select Plastic method - No clamps or
bracing required.  Tony pre-drills 6 very small holes through the Plexus (or
choice of window). Dry fit the windows and drill pilot holes into the
fiberglass through Tony's holes. Mask everything. Affix nylon washers or
other spacers to the window with dabs of Dow 795. Apply plenty and I mean
PLENTY of Dow 795 to the window. (If you don't make a mess, you have not
used enough!) Put windows in place and affix with small screws in
pre-drilled holes. Tighten enough to ensure 795 oozes out every where.
After several days (I think it was 10 from memory) remove screws and fill
holes with dab of 795.  Admitedly only one season so far, but not a single
leak.  

 

My biggest mistake was not to get good masking in the sharper inside
corners. However, a few minutes of careful work with an Xacto knife blade,
and the 975 came away clean,

 

As I said in an earlier post, 795 takes quite a while to set up and Tony was
adamant that I should not move the boat for quite a while - I think it was
10-15 days - This is therefore a fall or early spring project if you don't
want to delay splash!

 

Jonathan

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try
that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the
holding and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:





1. prep/sand boat and plexi.

2. Sika prime both surfaces

3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening

4. mask everything

5. lay bead of sealant on boat

6. set ports

7. finish sealant

8. remove tape when tacky

 

I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it
in place (approx 1/16 bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE
without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J
Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.

Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-03-06 Thread Terry
Hi, I know all of you CC owners are on the edge of your seats wondering how 
the continuing saga of the Terry Johnson ‘delayed start water pump issue’ was 
going to be resolved. At last, with the generous and knowledgeable help of 
Frank Noragon, we have found the problem to be in the faucet itself! I 
purchased new faucets from Home Depot around the time I replaced my water pump. 
The new faucet has a backflow restrictor in the form of a spring loaded ball 
that requires about 40 to 50 pounds pressure to open. This was found by taking 
the faucet apart and looking at how it was constructed.

The faucet was identified as the problem by disconnecting the output side of 
the pump, insuring it ran correctly when turned off and on many times, and then 
connecting the pump directly to the cold water intake of the faucet. The pump 
then did not operate in a timely manner, it had a delayed start of 10 to 60 
seconds. I am purchasing a new faucet as I was not able to get the old one to 
operate correctly once the spring was removed.

I would like to thank Frank for his help in troubleshooting the problem. Frank 
also taught me a new trick on how to remove a water pump hose from a barbed 
connector. Previously, I had been cutting the hose to remove the connectors. 
Frank brought along a heat gun and we would heat the hose at the barbed end of 
the fitting for about 60 to 90 seconds. After the hose was heated, it would 
easily pull free from the barbed connector.
What a wonderful bunch of guys we have on the CC site.
Thanks again Frank
...Terry Johnson
From: Terry 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Rich, I received several potential issues that I need to check out. Air in the 
lines, accumulator issues, possible wiring. I will look into all of them, and 
if all else fails, I will call Jabsco. I may call Jabsco first.

...Terry

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

So what happened?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 14:07, Terry tj...@comcast.net wrote:


Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump 
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Is it possible that the water is leaking back to the tank, so it has to fill 
the lines again, possibly even re-priming the pump?

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39 image001.gif

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

 

I had that problem on a Swan I used to deliver; you turn on the faucet then 
wait for the water. ..drove me up the wall, but never did figure out what was 
the problem. Maybe a good idea to call Jabsco and talk to a tech, they must 
have had that problem before. When you find out, please share with us.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

Terry,

 

Is the problem that the motor does not come on or that it comes on but no water 
comes out?

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Terry tj...@comcast.net wrote:

  Model # 12884557

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, Terry tj...@comcast.net wrote:

  It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  What is the make and model?

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, Terry tj...@comcast.net wrote:

  Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not 
come on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for 
it to start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new 
pump back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

   

  Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

   

  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

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  Terry 

Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread DAVID R MOCNY
We did the windows on our 29-2. Put butyl tape and the same sealant that S2 
used the set their windows. Don,t remember the name but I think I still have 
some in the basement.  The butyl tape ran down the windows when it got hot. 
Black windows in the Georgia sun get hot.  The sealant held up well.  I#39;ve 
seen S2#39;s that the original windows still do not leak, we had one and was 
impressed with the construction. To hold the windows in during drying time, I 
got some double suction window lifting handles. I stuck them to the inside and 
tied straps to the opposite side of the boat. Tighten the ratchets to pull the 
glass in. It worked great. This was a long messy job. Hope to never do it 
again.   ___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Paul Fountain
Had Perception's done last year, along with a lot of gel cost repair from 2 
poor jobs done previously, a previous owner and an 'expert' . The installer 
used #4 screws between the glazing and edge of the recess with washers on them. 
He used the sikaflex and primer for adhesive. After the adhesive dried he 
removed them, taped the window and gel coat and caulked the gap covering the 
holes. Looks great, and so far dry.

Paul. :)


On 2013-03-06, at 6:32 PM, Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us wrote:

 I did my windows last year using the Select Plastic method – No clamps or 
 bracing required.  Tony pre-drills 6 very small holes through the Plexus (or 
 choice of window). Dry fit the windows and drill pilot holes into the 
 fiberglass through Tony’s holes. Mask everything. Affix nylon washers or 
 other spacers to the window with dabs of Dow 795. Apply plenty and I mean 
 PLENTY of Dow 795 to the window. (If you don’t make a mess, you have not used 
 enough!) Put windows in place and affix with small screws in pre-drilled 
 holes. Tighten enough to ensure 795 oozes out every where.  After several 
 days (I think it was 10 from memory) remove screws and fill holes with dab of 
 795.  Admitedly only one season so far, but not a single leak. 
  
 My biggest mistake was not to get good masking in the sharper inside corners. 
 However, a few minutes of careful work with an Xacto knife blade, and the 975 
 came away clean,
  
 As I said in an earlier post, 795 takes quite a while to set up and Tony was 
 adamant that I should not move the boat for quite a while – I think it was 
 10-15 days – This is therefore a fall or early spring project if you don’t 
 want to delay splash!
  
 Jonathan
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
 G Street
 Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:02 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows
  
 Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try 
 that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding 
 and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!
  
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
  
 On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 
 1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
 2. Sika prime both surfaces
 3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
 4. mask everything
 5. lay bead of sealant on boat
 6. set ports
 7. finish sealant
 8. remove tape when tacky
  
 I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it 
 in place (approx 1/16 bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE 
 without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J 
 Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
 Harry Hallgring
 hhallgr...@icloud.com
  
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Stus-List Another great product discovery: LEDs

2013-03-06 Thread larry dick
Hi, I replaced all the main cabin settee/nav station lights in my 35 MKIII
 with IKEA 12v LED lights.I believe  the  lights are intended for under
kitchen cabinet lighting. They are puck lights (around 40 dollars for the
set of 3 with ac transformer) I mounted 6 lights,connected  them direct to
the existing 12v  wiring and they work beautifully.The light they put out
is very warm and mellow.
Larry Dick S/V Sooner
Leamington,Ontario.
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Stus-List Spring checklist

2013-03-06 Thread Dennis C.
While this list is a source of unbounded information, opinions and sarcasm, 
there's a lot on the Photoalbum site itself.  Winch diagrams, do it yourself 
tips and projects, etc.


So.in the water or out, now's the time to start checking out your boat for 
the sailing season.

Your handy dandy (and grossly underpaid) CC resource center has provided a 
nice checklist for you.  Just visit the CC resource center at:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

Scroll down the left sidebar to the Do It Yourself button and click.  Click 
the link called Spring Re-commissioning List and print it out.  Take it to 
your boat and start checking things off.  If you have questions, ask them on 
the list.


Or find the checklist at:


http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/checklist.pdf

Speaking of the underpaid part, while you're on the site, go to the Chandlery 
and support the site through a donation or purchase.

Thanks, 


Dennis C.
(Unofficial Site Marketing Peon)
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Spring checklist

2013-03-06 Thread Rich Knowles
I think that is finest bit of blatant high-pressure marketing I've seen in a 
while. I second the motion!!!

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-06, at 22:25, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote:

While this list is a source of unbounded information, opinions and sarcasm, 
there's a lot on the Photoalbum site itself.  Winch diagrams, do it yourself 
tips and projects, etc.

So.in the water or out, now's the time to start checking out your boat for 
the sailing season.

Your handy dandy (and grossly underpaid) CC resource center has provided a 
nice checklist for you.  Just visit the CC resource center at:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

Scroll down the left sidebar to the Do It Yourself button and click.  Click 
the link called Spring Re-commissioning List and print it out.  Take it to 
your boat and start checking things off.  If you have questions, ask them on 
the list.

Or find the checklist at:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/checklist.pdf

Speaking of the underpaid part, while you're on the site, go to the Chandlery 
and support the site through a donation or purchase.

Thanks, 

Dennis C.
(Unofficial Site Marketing Peon)
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Mister Mxyzptlk

2013-03-06 Thread Wally Bryant

The answer is Mister Mxyzptlk

Now you know.

Wal

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

2013-03-06 Thread Harry Hallgring
Fred,I used this3M Tapewhich I bought at a local NAPA Auto Parts store.Harry HallgringMirageOn Mar 06, 2013, at 05:02 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using? I'd love to try that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding and bracing while the adhesive sets up. Thanks!Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:1. prep/sand boat and plexi.2. Sika prime both surfaces3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening4. mask everything5. lay bead of sealant on boat6. set ports7. finish sealant8. remove tape when tackyI don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt. The tape holds it in place (approx 1/16" bedding). Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without incident. I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the same way and it lasts. Sika is good stuff.Harry Hallgring
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Stus-List Soleil, CC30 out of Royal Van YC

2013-03-06 Thread Paul Baker

Greetings,
Anyone know anything about a yellow CC30 called Soleil that was raced 
out of Royal Vancouver YC?  Looks like she was there at least in 
1990/1991, winning a 2nd and 3rd in their Dog Days races.  I'm 
considering her as my next hole in the water into which I will pour money.

Cheers,
Paul.

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Re: Stus-List Mister Mxyzptlk

2013-03-06 Thread Ronald B. Frerker
What's the question?RonWild Cheri

--- On Wed, 3/6/13, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com
Subject: Stus-List Mister Mxyzptlk
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wednesday, March 6, 2013, 9:12 PM

The answer is Mister Mxyzptlk

Now you know.

Wal

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Re: Stus-List Mister Mxyzptlk

2013-03-06 Thread Russ Melody

Hi Ron,

You just asked it.

(Remember, it's Wally :)

cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1

At 07:37 PM 06/03/2013, you wrote:

What's the question?
Ron
Wild Cheri


--- On Wed, 3/6/13, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com
Subject: Stus-List Mister Mxyzptlk
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wednesday, March 6, 2013, 9:12 PM

The answer is Mister Mxyzptlk

Now you know.

Wal

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.comhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com