Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Rick Brass]

Alex;

What was the name of the boat and the documentation number. The information
on the boat might satill be in the USCG data. Go to
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGuard/VesselByName.html to search by
name or to http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGuard/VesselByID.html to
search by documentation number


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN
stamped and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had
one, and I just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models
never had one, so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if
possible.

My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and
the hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no. is
close and what was the month yours was built?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 73

[Greg Arnold]

At least some boats no longer under USCG documentation (typically those 
changed to state registration) are still listed under their last 
documented name here:


http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGuard/VesselByName.html



On 7/23/2013 7:14 PM, Alex Giannelia wrote:

Bill thanks for that, and Dwight for offering his HIN.  I also recall that up 
to about 6 or so years ago, South Shore had the carpenter's certificates, and 
then got rid of them.  I suspect mine was built in May 1974, but am not sure.

My boat does have a "log" with a Doc Number carved in, but now that this boat 
is in  Canada, I presume this has gone into the dead records at USCG.  Any way I can 
recall this stuff?


ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario




Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 11:25:04 -0400
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN
Message-ID: <51eea050.4000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Southshore gave you incorrect information. ALL vessels manufactured
after November 1, 1972 had HIN numbers in the required location on the
starboard transom. Even rowboats. C&C would have been out of their minds
not to comply, as a boat with no HIN could never leave Canada, and I
doubt it could be registered IN Canada. How would they identify it?
Chances are excellent that your boat has at least one more copy of the
HIN hidden in the cabin somewhere. Has the boat ever been registered
since it was new? Old paperwork would have the HIN. I know it could
never be registered in the U.S. without a HIN, and I would think the
same true in Canada.

Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 73

[Alex Giannelia]

Bill thanks for that, and Dwight for offering his HIN.  I also recall that up 
to about 6 or so years ago, South Shore had the carpenter's certificates, and 
then got rid of them.  I suspect mine was built in May 1974, but am not sure.

My boat does have a "log" with a Doc Number carved in, but now that this boat 
is in  Canada, I presume this has gone into the dead records at USCG.  Any way 
I can recall this stuff?


ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario




Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 11:25:04 -0400
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN
Message-ID: <51eea050.4000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Southshore gave you incorrect information. ALL vessels manufactured 
after November 1, 1972 had HIN numbers in the required location on the 
starboard transom. Even rowboats. C&C would have been out of their minds 
not to comply, as a boat with no HIN could never leave Canada, and I 
doubt it could be registered IN Canada. How would they identify it? 
Chances are excellent that your boat has at least one more copy of the 
HIN hidden in the cabin somewhere. Has the boat ever been registered 
since it was new? Old paperwork would have the HIN. I know it could 
never be registered in the U.S. without a HIN, and I would think the 
same true in Canada.

Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Bill Bina]

Bingo. February 1974.

Bill Bina

On 7/23/2013 8:01 PM, dwight veinot wrote:

So with that info and the hull number on Lee's 35 MKII (ZCC352520374) and my
35 MKII (CCY352420274) can we conclude that the Rhode Island plant opened in
Feb or Mar of 1974.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
  


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: July 23, 2013 6:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

C&C was CCY until they opened the plant in Rhode Island. Once the Rhode
Island plant was in production, it got assigned CCY, and the original
Canadian plant was assigned ZCC from then onward.

Bill Bina

On 7/23/2013 3:52 PM, Lee Youngblood wrote:

Hi Dwight,

Our boat is a 1974 C&C 35-II  Hull #ZCC352520374

Interesting ZCC - know anything about that?

Thanks, Lee




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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[coltrek]

I watched a 2 cylinder Yanmar in a Schock 35 fire  up with these mounts, looked 
like Elvis at his wildest.  I couldn't think that having the shaft shake like 
that could be good. 


Wild Bill
C&C 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley  
Date: 07/23/2013  5:42 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine swap out. 
 
The black ones are Yanmar OEM.  The others could be from anywhere.  Hutch from 
PYI calls the Yanmar ones "marsh mellow mounts".  They do a great job with 
vibration BUT they have no mechanical attachment between the two plates.  If 
(and when) the bond between the rubber and metal fails you will find your 
engine no longer "mounted".  Yanmar even suggests wire tying the top and bottom 
halves together.  For anyone with a dripless shaft seal the "softness" of these 
mounts can allow leakage during heavy forward thrust.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk


-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Jul 23, 2013 4:24 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water 
cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and one 
set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the better set. 
Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your opinions.
Thanks Capt, Burt
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587

-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[dwight veinot]

So with that info and the hull number on Lee's 35 MKII (ZCC352520374) and my
35 MKII (CCY352420274) can we conclude that the Rhode Island plant opened in
Feb or Mar of 1974. 

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: July 23, 2013 6:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

C&C was CCY until they opened the plant in Rhode Island. Once the Rhode 
Island plant was in production, it got assigned CCY, and the original 
Canadian plant was assigned ZCC from then onward.

Bill Bina

On 7/23/2013 3:52 PM, Lee Youngblood wrote:
> Hi Dwight,
>
> Our boat is a 1974 C&C 35-II  Hull #ZCC352520374
>
> Interesting ZCC - know anything about that?
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.- Barq's

[Dennis C.]

Great root beer. First made by a small brewer and available only in the New 
Orleans area. Now owned by a major bottler. 

Dennis C.


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 23, 2013, at 4:24 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> I'm more interested in the can of Barq's Root Beer. 
> 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> On Jul 23, 2013, at 5:23 PM, John Russo  wrote:
> 
>> I would go with the new black ones which are identical to those on my 2GMF 
>> and look like they would distribute the load better as well as dampen more 
>> than your old ones.
>>  
>> John
>> Arpeggio
>> Norwalk
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:24 PM
>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Engine swap out.
>>  
>> I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water 
>> cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
>> I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and 
>> one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the 
>> better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your 
>> opinions.
>> Thanks Capt, Burt
>> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587
>>  
>> -- 
>> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
>> the realist adjusts the sails.”
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[Josh Muckley]

The black ones are Yanmar OEM.  The others could be from anywhere.  Hutch
from PYI calls the Yanmar ones "marsh mellow mounts".  They do a great job
with vibration BUT they have no mechanical attachment between the two
plates.  If (and when) the bond between the rubber and metal fails you will
find your engine no longer "mounted".  Yanmar even suggests wire tying the
top and bottom halves together.  For anyone with a dripless shaft seal the
"softness" of these mounts can allow leakage during heavy forward thrust.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Jul 23, 2013 4:24 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water
> cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
> I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and
> one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the
> better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your
> opinions.
> Thanks Capt, Burt
>
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Bill Bina]

C&C was CCY until they opened the plant in Rhode Island. Once the Rhode 
Island plant was in production, it got assigned CCY, and the original 
Canadian plant was assigned ZCC from then onward.


Bill Bina

On 7/23/2013 3:52 PM, Lee Youngblood wrote:

Hi Dwight,

Our boat is a 1974 C&C 35-II  Hull #ZCC352520374

Interesting ZCC - know anything about that?

Thanks, Lee





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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[Edd Schillay]

I'm more interested in the can of Barq's Root Beer. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Jul 23, 2013, at 5:23 PM, John Russo  wrote:

> I would go with the new black ones which are identical to those on my 2GMF 
> and look like they would distribute the load better as well as dampen more 
> than your old ones.
>  
> John
> Arpeggio
> Norwalk
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:24 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Engine swap out.
>  
> I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water 
> cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
> I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and one 
> set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the better 
> set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your opinions.
> Thanks Capt, Burt
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587
>  
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
> the realist adjusts the sails.”
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[John Russo]

I would go with the new black ones which are identical to those on my 2GMF
and look like they would distribute the load better as well as dampen more
than your old ones.

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:24 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Engine swap out.

 

I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water
cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.

I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and
one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the
better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your
opinions.

Thanks Capt, Burt


http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-wo
rk-2.html#post1063587

 

-- 
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails." 

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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Dwight,

Our boat is a 1974 C&C 35-II  Hull #ZCC352520374

Interesting ZCC - know anything about that?

Thanks, Lee





Alianna, 1974 35 MKII  CCY352420274

Which I think means hull number 242 February 1974. 


I believe in total there were 351 C&C 35's built of which the first 204
hulls are what we call MKI's and the last 147 are MKII's.

Not sure when the 35 MKIII production started or how many were built but I
think the MKIII's were Rob Ball designs while the MK I's and MK II's were
Cuthbertson designs.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[Joel Aronson]

I'm guessing the black ones absorb more vibration.

Hope all goes smoothly!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 4:24 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water
> cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
> I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and
> one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the
> better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your
> opinions.
> Thanks Capt, Burt
>
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Engine swap out.

[Curtis]

I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water
cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.
I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and
one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the
better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your
opinions.
Thanks Capt, Burt
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-work-2.html#post1063587

-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List Trim piece on 30-2, 34+ and 37+

[Ken Heaton]

Sorry, unfortunately our 37 XL has no teak on the stern anywhere.

Ken H.


On 23 July 2013 15:54, allen  wrote:

> ** 
> On Septima and all our models with the fold down transom and built in
> ladder, there is a piece of teak trim the finishes off the top of the door
> when the ladder is up.  It is a thin piece and it has circular cutouts
> where it fits around the step rails. Those little ears on the outside of
> the rails break very easily and aren't easily repaired.  I have a 1 1/4
> inch piece of teak and have machined it to replicate the broken pieces.
> Now, there are three holes in the old piece where the attachment devices
> go.  The piece has been off the boat so long I can't remember how it was
> attached.  Please help jog my memory.
>
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima C&C 30-2
> Hampton, VA
>
>
>
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Stus-List Trim piece on 30-2, 34+ and 37+

[allen]

On Septima and all our models with the fold down transom and built in ladder, 
there is a piece of teak trim the finishes off the top of the door when the 
ladder is up.  It is a thin piece and it has circular cutouts where it fits 
around the step rails. Those little ears on the outside of the rails break very 
easily and aren't easily repaired.  I have a 1 1/4 inch piece of teak and have 
machined it to replicate the broken pieces.  Now, there are three holes in the 
old piece where the attachment devices go.  The piece has been off the boat so 
long I can't remember how it was attached.  Please help jog my memory.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA


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Re: Stus-List ReCRYC race

[Della Barba, Joe]

That is a Ranger 28 or 33 I think.

Joe Della Barba


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Bushie
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 12:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List ReCRYC race

Three as of last nite that I know of. But a fourth skippered by a joe Lombardo 
has entered gob class. Not sure if he's a c&c though.
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List ReCRYC race

[Rick Bushie]

Three as of last nite that I know of. But a fourth skippered by a joe Lombardo 
has entered gob class. Not sure if he's a c&c though.
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Joel Aronson]

My Mark III is hull 14, built in 1983.  I believe that was the first year
for that model.

Joel
The Office
Annapolis


On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 11:45 AM, dwight veinot <
dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote:

> Alianna, 1974 35 MKII  CCY352420274
>
> Which I think means hull number 242 February 1974.
>
> I believe in total there were 351 C&C 35's built of which the first 204
> hulls are what we call MKI's and the last 147 are MKII's.
>
> Not sure when the 35 MKIII production started or how many were built but I
> think the MKIII's were Rob Ball designs while the MK I's and MK II's were
> Cuthbertson designs.
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
> Giannelia
> Sent: July 23, 2013 12:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN
>
> I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN
> stamped and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had
> one, and I just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models
> never had one, so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if
> possible.
>
> My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and
> the hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no.
> is
> close and what was the month yours was built?
>
> ALEX GIANNELIA
>
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/6013 - Release Date: 07/23/13
>
>
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>



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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[dwight veinot]

Alianna, 1974 35 MKII  CCY352420274

Which I think means hull number 242 February 1974.  

I believe in total there were 351 C&C 35's built of which the first 204
hulls are what we call MKI's and the last 147 are MKII's.

Not sure when the 35 MKIII production started or how many were built but I
think the MKIII's were Rob Ball designs while the MK I's and MK II's were
Cuthbertson designs.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN
stamped and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had
one, and I just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models
never had one, so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if
possible.

My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and
the hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no. is
close and what was the month yours was built?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Bill Bina]

Southshore gave you incorrect information. ALL vessels manufactured 
after November 1, 1972 had HIN numbers in the required location on the 
starboard transom. Even rowboats. C&C would have been out of their minds 
not to comply, as a boat with no HIN could never leave Canada, and I 
doubt it could be registered IN Canada. How would they identify it? 
Chances are excellent that your boat has at least one more copy of the 
HIN hidden in the cabin somewhere. Has the boat ever been registered 
since it was new? Old paperwork would have the HIN. I know it could 
never be registered in the U.S. without a HIN, and I would think the 
same true in Canada.


Bill Bina



On 7/23/2013 11:09 AM, Alex Giannelia wrote:

I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN stamped 
and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had one, and I 
just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models never had one, 
so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if possible.

My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and the 
hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no. is close 
and what was the month yours was built?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Della Barba, Joe]

My 73 35 MK I has a HIN.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN stamped 
and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had one, and I 
just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models never had one, 
so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if possible.

My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and the 
hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no. is close 
and what was the month yours was built?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Stus-List RE-constructing an HIN

[Alex Giannelia]

I have, as you know 1974 CC35 which due to a transom repair has no HIN stamped 
and showing.  Now I recall seeing one in Whitby Ontario which had one, and I 
just got an email from South Shore Yachts stating these models never had one, 
so unsure of where I stand, I want to re-construct this if possible.

My build year was 1974, the location was presumably Niagara on the Lake and the 
hull no was 282.  Is there someone lurking on the list whose hull no. is close 
and what was the month yours was built?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Stus-List CRYC race

[Della Barba, Joe]

How many C&Cs did we end up with in this race?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Midnight Mistress at Screwpile 2013

[Colin Kilgour]

Nice! Congrats Jake.

Cheers
Colin


On 7/22/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> Congrats to Jake and Pat Brodersen for making a fantastic showing on board
> Midnight Mistress (C&C 35-3) at the Screwpile Lighthouse Challenge in
> Solomons, MD.  So far it looks like a 5 out of 5 win for the series over
> the last two days.  There is one more day and as many as 3 more races.
> Hopefully they can continue to represent the C&C line with grace and
> speed.  Well done Jake.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: Stus-List Sailing Sunglasses Recommendations

[Colin Kilgour]

Wow... The internet's crawling with porn and all kinds of other
interesting stuff and you guys are using valuable bandwidth to discuss
which sunglasses are the most 'Star Trek' ;-)

My $0.02 on this.

1.  There are lots of good sunglasses.

2.  Expensive ones generally are better than cheap ones but a $300
pair won't make you see noticeably better than a $100 pair will.  Nor
will they get you laid more frequently. (Maui Jim fans will likely
dispute both these assertions)

3. I use cheap glasses as well as expensive glasses.  The former work
ok, but the frames are often flimsy and it doesn't take long for the
plastic lenses to get scratched up in a saltwater environment. I like
to have at least one pair of "good" glasses and one or two cheap ones
while afloat.

4. On a boat, non-polarised lenses are a waste of time - regardless of
price.  Learn to deal with the 'instrument issue' that comes with
polarised lenses.

5. Your personal characteristics are important.For instance lots
of people like Oakleys, but I can't wear them as they sit too close to
my face and not enough air gets in behind.  Then they fog up.  RayBans
work way better for me.  (But, I usually use a pair of Oakley-style
cheapos when I'm in the Caribbean and I wear them while swimming as
they don't fall off in the water)

Cheers
Colin


On 7/22/13, jtsails  wrote:
> I have tried at least a 100 different brands of sunglasses because I live in
> the south and have VERY light sensitive eyes! The hands-down best boating
> sunglasses I have ever owned were Vuarnet's with their Nautilux lens! They
> are polarized and have a triple gradient (darker at the top and bottom,
> lighter in the middle). Unfortunately for me, I now require prescription
> len's for good distance vision. Almost all of the prescription sunglasses
> that I have tried have a ton of distortion from the curved lens or they just
> plain suck! I have found an alternative that is working out pretty good
> though. If you have to have prescription sunglasses, then check out
> www.nyxsportsglasses.com and click on the link for prescription lens'. The
> corrective lens' are separate from the sunglass lens and snap in and out.
> You can get many different lens' of different darknesses and polarized or
> not. Even if you don't need the corrective lens, the glasses are pretty good
> and not overly expensive.
>
> James
> Delaney
> C&C 38 MKII
> Oriental, NC
>   - Original Message -
>   From: Edd Schillay
>   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>   Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 2:21 PM
>   Subject: Stus-List Sailing Sunglasses Recommendations
>
>
>   Listers,
>
>
>   I'm seeking recommendations for a good set of sailing sunglasses. I know
> Ronstan, Gill and a few others make some good polarized sets and was
> interested in hearing about which ones you like or dislike.
>
>
>   I prefer something with blue lenses, polarized and has good coverage to
> block glare from water reflection too.
>
>
>   And if it's something that looks like it belongs in the 23rd Century, then
> all the better :-)
>
>
>
>
>   All the best,
>
>
>   Edd
>
>
>
>
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>   ___
>   This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>   http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>   CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>

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Re: Stus-List Genoa Sheets

[Bill Coleman]

5/8" is perfect. They will be a little slippery for the first year, then get
better.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom B
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Genoa Sheets

Thanks Bill...I checked today and Alera is carrying 3/4" sheets.  They do
work in the Barient 32's but not very good.   I am wondering if anyone has
had luck with 9/16th's or if I should just go with 5/8.".

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
C&C 1990 37+/40
Vashon Wa

On Jul 22, 2013, at 1:15 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 14:44:54 -0400
> From: "Bill Coleman" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa Sheets
> Message-ID: <041901ce870b$8f235310$ad69f930$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> Coltrek came with fat sheets, and I have always replaced them with the
same
> - I think 5/8", as I don't think 3/4 would fit in #32 self tailer.
> Wire always seems thinner than it is, and rope always seems thicker that
it
> appears, for some reason.
> 
> Just looked it up, 5/8" Sta-Set Dbl Braid, NER2100.20Been working fine
> for 10 years. Got them from Oyster Bay, they always pre-stretch all their
> work.
> Before that I had a local fellow make some up, also 5/8 but very soft and
> stretchy - I took his recommendation, but discovered later he was just
> trying to get rid of it. Both splices eventually came out, one when I was
> just rolling the sail up.  
> Last purchase from him! 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 

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Re: Stus-List Genoa Sheets

[Rick Brass]

Tom;

I don't know what your prevailing wind and sea conditions are in Washington,
but even 9/16ths seems to be a bit much to me.

The original sheets in Imzadi were 5/8ths or 3/4 Yacht Braid - the OEM
sheets apparently. The contemporary equivalent is NER Regatta Braid or
Samson Trophy, though I would expect either of those to be a lot stronger
than 80s vintage Yacht Braid. I replaced my big sheets with 1/2" Cajun Rope
XLE. The XLE is between Sta Set and Sta Set X for strength, and has a nice
fuzzy hand for good grip and ease on the hands. It is also a lot less
expensive than Sta Set.

And actually, I now use those 1/2" sheets when the wind pipes up above about
20 true and I should be using a #2 or #3 headsail. I got a deal on some
7/16ths Sta Set X (or maybe it is the Samson equivalent) that is almost as
strong as the 1/2" and that is what I use for sheets at least 90% of the
time in the wind conditions I see around here.

I've actually been thinking about getting a set of VPC or Yale PDF Racer
sheets in 7/16ths that I can use all the time. VPC has a Vectran blend core
for strength, and PHD Cruiser and Racer us Dyneema in the blend. They are
lighter and stronger than Dacron double braids, and in 7/16ths diameter the
Yale line is under $2 per foot.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom B
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Genoa Sheets

Thanks Bill...I checked today and Alera is carrying 3/4" sheets.  They do
work in the Barient 32's but not very good.   I am wondering if anyone has
had luck with 9/16th's or if I should just go with 5/8.".

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
C&C 1990 37+/40
Vashon Wa

On Jul 22, 2013, at 1:15 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 14:44:54 -0400
> From: "Bill Coleman" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa Sheets
> Message-ID: <041901ce870b$8f235310$ad69f930$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> Coltrek came with fat sheets, and I have always replaced them with the 
> same
> - I think 5/8", as I don't think 3/4 would fit in #32 self tailer.
> Wire always seems thinner than it is, and rope always seems thicker 
> that it appears, for some reason.
> 
> Just looked it up, 5/8" Sta-Set Dbl Braid, NER2100.20Been working fine
> for 10 years. Got them from Oyster Bay, they always pre-stretch all 
> their work.
> Before that I had a local fellow make some up, also 5/8 but very soft 
> and stretchy - I took his recommendation, but discovered later he was 
> just trying to get rid of it. Both splices eventually came out, one 
> when I was just rolling the sail up.
> Last purchase from him! 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39

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Re: Stus-List mast step rebuild

[dwight veinot]

My point was that on the 33-2 the rebuild may involve more than just
materials for the mast step; like the entire keel sump and some floors may
need to be beefed up to support the weight of and forces on the keel…at
least consider that and inspect before purchase rather than find out later.

 

I have not yet had to do any repairs to the mast step on my 35 MKII but I
expect it may be of similar construction to the 35 MKI so that may be in my
future but no signs of problems have shown up yet…shrouds hold tension
(1100-1200 lbs on uppers) including load from sails with backstay up to 2500
lbs at times.

 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: July 23, 2013 7:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List mast step rebuild

 

On the 35 MK I the materials cost was under $1,000 and actually could be a
lot lower if you just use wood. I added a layer of ½” aluminum to mine.

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 5:11 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

If I recall correctly that repair or rebuild job on a 33-2 could involve a
little more than a simple mast step rebuild, as if any mast step rebuild
were a simple thing to do in the first place.  I recall reading an account
from one contributor on this list who reported first hand about exactly that
repair on a 33-2 and I seem to recall that more extensive work was involved
and that one could expect to spend in the neighbourhood of $20,000 to have
the job done properly.  That said, the 33-2 is a beautiful design that has
good speed potential and sails very well to weather but the very issue that
Andrew has raised was a major concern when I chose to pass on a 33-2 in
favour of a boat that was 10 years older,  my C&C 35 MKII that I have now
sailed very happily for nearly 10 years now with no structural issues.
Alianna is now in her 39th year and going strong and looking good.  All
sailboats require some regular upkeep and repair but probably most would
agree that structural integrity in the mast step / keel sump is a very high
priority issue. 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early C&C's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The
one on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut
to bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.
The first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a
couple inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig,
scrape out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick
fiberglass sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a
piece of white oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a
solid glass step with a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're
fairly handy with West System epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge
job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: andrew rothweiler 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello,

It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks
to all who contribute.

 

I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried
to research this on the C&C site on Sailnet, but there's little info going
back to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.

 

Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very
expensive? Sounds like it would be.

 

Thanks in advance for any help with this.


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Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/6010 - Release Date: 07/2

Stus-List mast step rebuild

[Della Barba, Joe]

On the 35 MK I the materials cost was under $1,000 and actually could be a lot 
lower if you just use wood. I added a layer of ½" aluminum to mine.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 5:11 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

If I recall correctly that repair or rebuild job on a 33-2 could involve a 
little more than a simple mast step rebuild, as if any mast step rebuild were a 
simple thing to do in the first place.  I recall reading an account from one 
contributor on this list who reported first hand about exactly that repair on a 
33-2 and I seem to recall that more extensive work was involved and that one 
could expect to spend in the neighbourhood of $20,000 to have the job done 
properly.  That said, the 33-2 is a beautiful design that has good speed 
potential and sails very well to weather but the very issue that Andrew has 
raised was a major concern when I chose to pass on a 33-2 in favour of a boat 
that was 10 years older,  my C&C 35 MKII that I have now sailed very happily 
for nearly 10 years now with no structural issues.  Alianna is now in her 39th 
year and going strong and looking good.  All sailboats require some regular 
upkeep and repair but probably most would agree that structural integrity in 
the mast step / keel sump is a very high priority issue.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early C&C's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The one 
on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut to 
bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got 
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.  The 
first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a couple 
inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You 
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig, scrape 
out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick fiberglass 
sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a piece of white 
oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a solid glass step with 
a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're fairly handy with West System 
epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the 
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



From: andrew rothweiler mailto:andy...@att.net>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hello,
It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks to 
all who contribute.

I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast 
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried to 
research this on the C&C site on Sailnet, but there's little info going back to 
2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.

Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem 
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very 
expensive? Sounds like it would be.

Thanks in advance for any help with this.

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight veinot]

If I recall correctly that repair or rebuild job on a 33-2 could involve a
little more than a simple mast step rebuild, as if any mast step rebuild
were a simple thing to do in the first place.  I recall reading an account
from one contributor on this list who reported first hand about exactly that
repair on a 33-2 and I seem to recall that more extensive work was involved
and that one could expect to spend in the neighbourhood of $20,000 to have
the job done properly.  That said, the 33-2 is a beautiful design that has
good speed potential and sails very well to weather but the very issue that
Andrew has raised was a major concern when I chose to pass on a 33-2 in
favour of a boat that was 10 years older,  my C&C 35 MKII that I have now
sailed very happily for nearly 10 years now with no structural issues.
Alianna is now in her 39th year and going strong and looking good.  All
sailboats require some regular upkeep and repair but probably most would
agree that structural integrity in the mast step / keel sump is a very high
priority issue. 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early C&C's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The
one on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut
to bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.
The first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a
couple inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig,
scrape out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick
fiberglass sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a
piece of white oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a
solid glass step with a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're
fairly handy with West System epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge
job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


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From: andrew rothweiler 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello,

It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks
to all who contribute.

 

I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried
to research this on the C&C site on Sailnet, but there's little info going
back to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.

 

Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very
expensive? Sounds like it would be.

 

Thanks in advance for any help with this.


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