Re: Stus-List Eye can see a CC
Stu, Congratulations! After years of putting off seeing an ophthalmologist, I made an appointment this spring. I had cataracts in both eyes and mild astigmatism. Just as you describe, fixing this was easy. Now, with ‘bionic’ lens, I can both read a chart and keep a good lookout for other CC’s. It is truly amazing what can be done to improve one’s vision . It all starts with an eye exam. Regards, Ron Ronald V. Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ron.ri...@1968.usna.com From: Stu [mailto:stumurra...@gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 9:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Eye can see a CC Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and they were 'ripe' for surgery. After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and new lens inserted. Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several weeks between each. Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye -- I think my brain is getting water logged. But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes. Still need glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks. At the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's license. I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I have missed. If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be surprised at how beautiful your CC really looks. Stu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Tap tap tap tap
We are out on our annual cruise headed to the CC Rendevous on Thetis and have developed the weirdest tapping sound in our water system. It is loud and in sync with the water pump. It seems to be associated with the how water line to the sink in the forward stateroom. The pipe is under the stbd water tank and I have some everything but pull the tank trying to figure it out. One day it was fine, the next tap tap tap. Any wild ideas are welcome. I am stumped. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tap tap tap tap
Stowaway...trying to get out!!! Dwight Veinot CC 35MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Sent: August 3, 2014 1:05 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Tap tap tap tap We are out on our annual cruise headed to the CC Rendevous on Thetis and have developed the weirdest tapping sound in our water system. It is loud and in sync with the water pump. It seems to be associated with the how water line to the sink in the forward stateroom. The pipe is under the stbd water tank and I have some everything but pull the tank trying to figure it out. One day it was fine, the next tap tap tap. Any wild ideas are welcome. I am stumped. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tap tap tap tap
If your system has a diaphragm pump and expansion tank like mine it might be worth checking (ie:draining) the tank. Normally it would act a bit like a cushion and dampen vibration from the pump. When I changed the rubber diaphragm on my pump it was obvious how old and rigid the original diaphragm had become (no more chunka chunka with each cycle). Evangeline (1990 34+) is having repairs so won't make Thetis this year. Have fun. Ciao -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 9:05 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Tap tap tap tap We are out on our annual cruise headed to the CC Rendevous on Thetis and have developed the weirdest tapping sound in our water system. It is loud and in sync with the water pump. It seems to be associated with the how water line to the sink in the forward stateroom. The pipe is under the stbd water tank and I have some everything but pull the tank trying to figure it out. One day it was fine, the next tap tap tap. Any wild ideas are welcome. I am stumped. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tap tap tap tap
Some water heater installations include a backflow preventor (check valve) sometimes they can tap or rattle a bit. What about temperature/themal expansion. The hot water pipes in my house creek and pop as they heat and cool. They are copper not plastic like our 37+'s. I'm interested in know what you figure out. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 3, 2014 12:05 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We are out on our annual cruise headed to the CC Rendevous on Thetis and have developed the weirdest tapping sound in our water system. It is loud and in sync with the water pump. It seems to be associated with the how water line to the sink in the forward stateroom. The pipe is under the stbd water tank and I have some everything but pull the tank trying to figure it out. One day it was fine, the next tap tap tap. Any wild ideas are welcome. I am stumped. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III
Thanks for all the help on this. I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a symmetrical spinnaker I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding). After an odd number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong! Jonathan -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:54, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We have a furler and dip-pole. We use a piece of velcro to hold the sheets to the headstay below the drum. i'm not on the bow, but some very experienced bowmen tell me its best on my boat. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I don’t think of it either. Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the bow Mike Persistence Halifax (yet another “not a cc” boat – however I do race regularly on a 115 so I guess that counts – and a 99 as well) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM To: Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above the pole / topping lift. It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no reason to keep them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if you had dropped the jib. Just one other thing for bow to remember in the gybe. We don't even think of it these days. I'm assuming you're doing dip pole, not what Josh was describing? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and sorely in need of advice! I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole) Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before douse. What am I doing wrong? -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Marina camouflage now drying cushions
Hi Lee: When I made my pipe berths, I wrapped the memory foam with plastic to prevent it from getting wet. I used 0.7 mil plastic drop cloth which I got at Home Depot in the paint department. It's so thin that you don't even know it's there. Alan ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III
The rule on Touche' is always drop on the same side as the hoist, period! It's not hard even if you're on the opposite gybe than the hoist. Pop the jaw, lower the pole end, and haul the guy as you ease the sheet and halyard. The chute should slide around the forestay and across the foredeck. Practice it a few times, you'll get it. An added bonus is the crew will still be on the high side of the boat. The other choice it to try to set up for a starboard gybe approach to the mark, then you'll be set for a port douse. You also have rights. Having rights during a chute douse is a good thing. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 11:23 AM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for all the help on this. I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a symmetrical spinnaker I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding). After an odd number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong! Jonathan -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III
When you douse the spinnaker, do you let the pole forward to the headstay and then let the guy completely off? This should relieve all the pressure and now you can pull on the sheet to gather the foot and work with the bowman to relieve the halyard insync so as not to dump the sail in the water. Maybe some of your spin-halyard hardware is getting hung up on the furler swivel? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 3, 2014 12:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for all the help on this. I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a symmetrical spinnaker I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding). After an odd number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong! Jonathan -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:54, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We have a furler and dip-pole. We use a piece of velcro to hold the sheets to the headstay below the drum. i'm not on the bow, but some very experienced bowmen tell me its best on my boat. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I don't think of it either. Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the bow Mike Persistence Halifax (yet another not a cc boat - however I do race regularly on a 115 so I guess that counts - and a 99 as well) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear via CnC-List *Sent:* Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM *To:* Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above the pole / topping lift. It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no reason to keep them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if you had dropped the jib. Just one other thing for bow to remember in the gybe. We don't even think of it these days. I'm assuming you're doing dip pole, not what Josh was describing? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and sorely in need of advice! I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole) Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before douse. What am I doing wrong? -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III
Every boat is a little different but the Person 32 I race on has 3 masthead sheaves. We regularly lower on the opposite side of that which we raised. If you absolutely need to take down on the same side, you could try a maneuver called a mexican. This is a takedown on the windward side. IIRC you need to be a bit more downwind. It can suck though cause there is still wind present in the sail, it is just pressed up against the main and usually slides down the inside. Josh On Aug 3, 2014 12:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for all the help on this. I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a symmetrical spinnaker I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding). After an odd number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong! Jonathan -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:54, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We have a furler and dip-pole. We use a piece of velcro to hold the sheets to the headstay below the drum. i'm not on the bow, but some very experienced bowmen tell me its best on my boat. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I don't think of it either. Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the bow Mike Persistence Halifax (yet another not a cc boat - however I do race regularly on a 115 so I guess that counts - and a 99 as well) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear via CnC-List *Sent:* Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM *To:* Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above the pole / topping lift. It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no reason to keep them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if you had dropped the jib. Just one other thing for bow to remember in the gybe. We don't even think of it these days. I'm assuming you're doing dip pole, not what Josh was describing? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and sorely in need of advice! I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole) Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before douse. What am I doing wrong? -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
All, I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming through. Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: * above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect.* This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go right to float. A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 span while the engine is running it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no load from the boat. Add a small load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage again. Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V. After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 volts, which is considered to be a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle battery. If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming up to 12.6 V the charger may be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode where after a rest from charging the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going over 13 V. If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
:-) Gary S/V Expresso Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~ On Aug 3, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: All, I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming through. Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: * above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect.* This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go right to float. A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 span while the engine is running it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no load from the boat. Add a small load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage again. Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V. After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 volts, which is considered to be a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle battery. If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming up to 12.6 V the charger may be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode where after a rest from charging the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going over 13 V. If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
It's sort of like golf. Do look for a ball were you don't want to find it. Gary Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~ On Aug 3, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: All, I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming through. Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: * above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect.* This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go right to float. A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 span while the engine is running it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no load from the boat. Add a small load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage again. Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V. After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 volts, which is considered to be a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle battery. If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming up to 12.6 V the charger may be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode where after a rest from charging the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going over 13 V. If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III
Jonathan, it sounds like you have a different setup to mine. Mine looks exactly like the shop drawings, so is original (maybe an option?). We have two spin halyards that exit slightly above the forestay with stainless 'pipes' each side. That makes it easy to douse either side as long as foredeck remembers which way round to untwist them. We had one race where we seemed to get something hung up on the douse. So now we tend to release about 6 of halyard while the spin is full, which should help you clear the forestay / swivel, but I think the best advice would be to go for the 'Mexican' that others have described. It can get you a later drop and means the sheets / guys can remain hooked up if you're OK with hatch hoists. Tim Mojito CC 35-III Branford, CT On Aug 3, 2014, at 12:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for all the help on this. I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a symmetrical spinnaker I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding). After an odd number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong! Jonathan -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:54, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We have a furler and dip-pole. We use a piece of velcro to hold the sheets to the headstay below the drum. i'm not on the bow, but some very experienced bowmen tell me its best on my boat. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I don’t think of it either. Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the bow Mike Persistence Halifax (yet another “not a cc” boat – however I do race regularly on a 115 so I guess that counts – and a 99 as well) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM To: Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above the pole / topping lift. It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no reason to keep them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if you had dropped the jib. Just one other thing for bow to remember in the gybe. We don't even think of it these days. I'm assuming you're doing dip pole, not what Josh was describing? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and sorely in need of advice! I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole) Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before douse. What am I doing wrong? -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
Good work! Nice when it is a simple fix! Joel On Sunday, August 3, 2014, Gary W. Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It's sort of like golf. Do look for a ball were you don't want to find it. Gary Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~ On Aug 3, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: All, I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming through. Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: * above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect.* This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go right to float. A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. *Joe Della Barba* Coquina *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');] *On Behalf Of *Michael Brown via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 span while the engine is running it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no load from the boat. Add a small load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage again. Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V. After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 volts, which is considered to be a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle battery. If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming up to 12.6 V the charger may be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode where after a rest from charging the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going over 13 V. If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','e...@schillay.com'); To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com'); Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
Stus-List binnacle light follow-up
It turns out the wire was not connected to a power source! The wire was good. I have a terminal block for the instruments in the NavPod under the deck, so I cut the wire, added eye fittings and connected to the power supply for the GPS. I'm not worried about the power drain of 2 tiny LEDs. Joel -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Nice Sail Today
Went out to find the new Weather Buoy just dropped 2 miles west of South Haven, Michigan. Nice day on the lake. We sailed a nice close reach to the Buoy (after going around the Perch fishing fleet) and then went on a dead run north for a while. Tacked into a broad reach into 6-8 knots (.6 foot waves), Tacked back to South Haven for a really nice day out. 65 degree water and 76 degree air set up a bit of haze to make identifying the lighthouse a bit of a challenge until about 2 miles out. The new buoy can be found at: http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45168 They have a web cam at: http://www.limnotechdata.com/stations/SouthHaven/ Sailing on the inland seas are unique. Neil Schiller 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (CC 35, Mark I) Corsair Document #538243 From the beautiful harbor of South Haven, Michigan BTW Corsair's document has been reinstated. No more Registration Numbers (now that Michigan did away with hang boards). ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Eye can see a CC
A bit late on this one, but just to add another plus (both my cataracts were corrected during the last 10 months). Cat’s Paw was already beautiful (to me) before the operation, and the sails were already close enough for me to see they were mostly badly trimmed. But for the first time in years, I can see buoys as far away as my wife can (she has excellent vision). This has really made a qualitative difference in my pleasure while sailing. Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, Stu stumurra...@gmail.com wrote: Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and they were 'ripe' for surgery. After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and new lens inserted.? Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several weeks between each. Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye -- I think my brain is getting water logged. But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.? Still need glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.? At the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's license. I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I have missed. If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be surprised at how beautiful your CC really looks. ? Stu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
Glad to hear that, Edd. A simple fix that will last a few seasons. Skip From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 2:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? All, I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming through. Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: * above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect.* This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go right to float. A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 span while the engine is running it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no load from the boat. Add a small load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage again. Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V. After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 volts, which is considered to be a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle battery. If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming up to 12.6 V the charger may be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode where after a rest from charging the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going over 13 V. If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Eye can see a CC
This sort of hit home with me. My wife was incubated as a baby in pure oxygen. This is a practice that was stopped when it was realized the damage it does to the eyes. As a result she has had to deal with severe nearsightedness, severe astigmatism and as a result stretched retinas. She has been seeing a retina specialist regularly (several times a year since the age of 30ish and has had many retina surgeries. Her vision has been around 20/600 in her good eye since she can remember. Something like 20/800 in her other eye. Needed a doctors note all her adult life to keep her drivers license. Coke bottle glasses don't even do it justice. I always joked she could use her glasses in a pinch to start a fire. She had cataract surgery last year. VERY risky in her situation but her retina specialist approved it. The change was so drastic she could stop wearing glasses except for cheaters for reading (like me). This was just slightly emotional this was for her. At 57 she looked at the world like a baby. for the first time.then she saw me. You can imagine my concern. I'm still here so I guess it was OK. Amazing what they can do. Skip From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 7:37 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Eye can see a CC A bit late on this one, but just to add another plus (both my cataracts were corrected during the last 10 months). Cat's Paw was already beautiful (to me) before the operation, and the sails were already close enough for me to see they were mostly badly trimmed. But for the first time in years, I can see buoys as far away as my wife can (she has excellent vision). This has really made a qualitative difference in my pleasure while sailing. Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, Stu mailto:stumurra...@gmail.com stumurra...@gmail.com wrote: Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and they were 'ripe' for surgery. After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and new lens inserted.? Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several weeks between each. Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye -- I think my brain is getting water logged. But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.? Still need glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.? At the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's license. I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I have missed. If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be surprised at how beautiful your CC really looks. ? Stu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List eBay Scores!
Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow 26's) and cabin top winches (Barient 22's). The bases for the secondaries are losing some of the anodizing. The alloy primaries had lost some teeth on the inside of the drum but had been repaired. Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 28's. Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using claz.org. Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me. Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad. Been looking for more chrome winches. 2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and scored a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's. A day later I scored a pair of stainless Barient 22's. So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches. All for under $1100. Just have to be patient and keep searching. Should make the boat look much nicer. Sweet! :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List eBay Scores!
thats quite a score!!!congrats! -- Original Message -- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List eBay Scores! Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0500 Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow 26's) and cabin top winches (Barient 22's). The bases for the secondaries are losing some of the anodizing. The alloy primaries had lost some teeth on the inside of the drum but had been repaired. Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 28's. Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using claz.org. Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me. Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad. Been looking for more chrome winches. 2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and scored a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's. A day later I scored a pair of stainless Barient 22's. So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches. All for under $1100. Just have to be patient and keep searching. Should make the boat look much nicer. Sweet! :) Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Nice Sail Today
I first read that as 6-8 knots and 6 foot waves. I thought, How different that is on Lake Champlain Ed On Aug 3, 2014, at 7:27 PM, schiller schil...@bloomingdalecom.net wrote: Went out to find the new Weather Buoy just dropped 2 miles west of South Haven, Michigan. Nice day on the lake. We sailed a nice close reach to the Buoy (after going around the Perch fishing fleet) and then went on a dead run north for a while. Tacked into a broad reach into 6-8 knots (.6 foot waves), Tacked back to South Haven for a really nice day out. 65 degree water and 76 degree air set up a bit of haze to make identifying the lighthouse a bit of a challenge until about 2 miles out. The new buoy can be found at: http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45168 They have a web cam at: http://www.limnotechdata.com/stations/SouthHaven/ Sailing on the inland seas are unique. Neil Schiller 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (CC 35, Mark I) Corsair Document #538243 From the beautiful harbor of South Haven, Michigan BTW Corsair's document has been reinstated. No more Registration Numbers (now that Michigan did away with hang boards). ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
