Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Skip,

If those quarter stays are also known as running 
backstays or checkstays it is not uncommon to 
have them appear too short on a boat that is race 
set-up. On typical windward-leeward courses when 
running to the leeward mark your gybe angles will 
not have the main let free as you might when cruising.
Also it is not uncommon to have the boom let onto 
the slack (lee) checkstay at these gybe angles.


So for more gentlemanly sailing I suggest you add 
a bit o' length to these lines.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:26 AM 03/09/2014, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_01B3_01CFC772.52DA4870"
Content-Language: en-us

Seems simple but….

Sailing a “new to me” mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. 
I have run into a couple of unexpected 
challenges when running or even on a broad reach.


I can’t seem to get the either quarter stay out 
of the way to let the main out enough. The lines 
that control the tension on them are too short 
to get them out of the way. They run through a 
double set of blocks. Is that just a rigging 
mistake or am I missing something? (I just took 
the boat the way it was rigged). It seems to be 
a lot of unnecessary work to have to re-thread 
the blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle.


Also, when running is winging the jib a common 
(or acceptable) practice with such a large sail 
(135 I think)?  If so, I would appreciate a 
suggestion or two in that direction. I don’t 
have a good enough crew to fly the spinnaker. In 
fact assume I am single handing but with someone 
to occasionally watch the tiller for me. No 
tiller tamer or auto-pilot this year.


Skip

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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Good one Dwight.

I bet many missed this, but my guess is that Dennis did not.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 05:31 AM 03/09/2014, you wrote:
I totally agree…the C&C 35 MKI is a wonderful 
sail boat and well worth a diesel repower


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


--
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List

Sent: September 3, 2014 7:34 AM
To: Dennis C.; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

Dennis,
 She sounds like a keeper!
Gary
'75 C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~

Oh.
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Re: Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

The last time I noticed fluid leaking from around Calypso's reduction gear it 
originated from the oil cooler lines.  Does Alegria's reduction gear have a 
heat exchanger?  If so how old are its hoses and have the zincs been checked 
lately?

I agree with the other responses in that it is safe to operate as long as the 
fluid level is kept up.  For entertainment check out today's 'Lectronic 
Latitude 
(http://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/lectronicday.lasso?date=2014-09-03#Story4) 
for a story on an engine lube oil leak that got out of hand.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Spencer 
Johnson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 2:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

We just completed our 2nd annual Grand Sailing Adventure - 2 weeks cruising.  
We went over 500 miles (Racine WI to Charlevoix MI) and back and motored most 
of it. Near the end I noticed transmission fluid leaking - or spraying - 
underneath the trans.  LF38 with a Westerbeke 27 and a V-Drive transmission.  
I've never had any issues with oil or trans leaking.  I checked the fluid 
levels...no detectable decrease on the dipstick, but, there is only about a 
quarter inch area at the bottom of the stick to show the fluid levels.  When I 
wiped the bottom of the trans off with a paper towel I could not detect where 
the fluid was coming from.  It doesn't appear to be a drip, but, more like a 
spray just underneath the trans.
I might suspect some sort of seal between the trans and shaft, but, am pretty 
clueless about how it is all put together.
Has anybody else encountered a similar problem?   I am asking for a probable 
diagnosis and how much trouble I am in for.  I have about 6 weeks left in the 
season with a few weekend sails and then, probably, motoring for 5 hours or so 
to the winter haulout.
Am I safe to keep using it?  It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud 
clunk when shifting from neutral to forward or reversebut it hasn't slipped 
or failed.  yet...


Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine, WI
(home in Mount Prospect, IL)
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Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You will probably need new shaft seals.  It will cost $1200 to $2000 to have it 
done, depending on what else they find when the tear it apart.  As long as you 
keep up the fluid level you can continue to use it for the remainder of the 
season.  I used my boat for several weeks this way, but I went thru a lot of 
transmission fluid.  By the way, I tried several "stop leak" products and none 
of them worked.  You can look on my blog for a description of what I went thru 
with mine.  During the process I leaned that v-drive transmissions usually 
require a rebuild every 1500 engine hours.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
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Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Would love to be there but life just seems to get in the way of progress.
Have fun and raise a glass to all of us who are not there  J

 

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 3:58 PM
To: Jerome Tauber; Edd Schillay; CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

 

Cant you guys trailer?

UPDATE!   Website now has dockage contact info and I sent an email out with
a reservation form attached that is now is limbo as it may be too large for
distribution.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

To: e...@schillay.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:33:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I will be in the same position as Edd.   I will not be able to come by boat
but intend to drive up with my wife and will attend dinner and events.
Would love to daysail on someones boat who is attending.   Jerry J&J 27MkV. 

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: David ; cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Sep 3, 2014 1:14 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

David, 

 

Sorry to report that work scheduling is going to keep the
Enterprise from attending from Western Long Island Sound. My wife and I are,
however, planning to come up by car and stay in Newport during the
rendezvous. 

 

We'll see you on the dock (assuming you guys actually get a
dock). 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

On Sep 3, 2014, at 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

 

To all attendees and wanna be attendees...

We are still waiting for contracts etc from The Alofsin Docks.  We hope to
have something before we get there but I am not hopeful. 

Worst case...we all show up and we will figure it out on the fly.

Not my way to run a railroad, but it is not my railroad.  

FYI we are using The Alofsin Docks because it is a great venue (next to
Yachting Museum), keeps us all together (as opposed to spread out all over
marina) and it is relatively inexpensive dock space. 

Also If you have signed up and have not paid the fee you will not show up on
the "Who's Coming" list until you pay the fee.

Sorry I could not be more specific.   See you in a few weeks!



David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I call them check stays.  On mine the fiddle blocks that are attached for
tightening them have snap shackles.  I can pop the shackle and move them
forward on the toe rail.  Generally they are a bit of a pain and are at the
bottom of the list of things to.  The PO told me they prevent the mast from
pumping but I have never observed this pumping phenomenon.

IMO the best way to wing and wing is to set a jibe preventer and sail the
main WAY out with the wind just shy of a jibe.  This keeps the headsail
well filled without the need for a pole.  A pole can help if you need to go
dead down but is just more equipment, more work and needs to be secured
prior to changing course.  We sailed 50 miles downwind 15-20kts from
Barcelona to Targona this way (preventor and no pole) with 10-12' swells
from the rear.  Thank goodness for the preventor.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 3, 2014 12:27 PM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Seems simple but
>
>
>
> Sailing a "new to me" mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. I have run into a couple
> of unexpected challenges when running or even on a broad reach.
>
>
>
> I can't seem to get the either quarter stay out of the way to let the main
> out enough. The lines that control the tension on them are too short to get
> them out of the way. They run through a double set of blocks. Is that just
> a rigging mistake or am I missing something? (I just took the boat the way
> it was rigged). It seems to be a lot of unnecessary work to have to
> re-thread the blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle.
>
>
>
> Also, when running is winging the jib a common (or acceptable) practice
> with such a large sail (135 I think)?  If so, I would appreciate a
> suggestion or two in that direction. I don't have a good enough crew to fly
> the spinnaker. In fact assume I am single handing but with someone to
> occasionally watch the tiller for me. No tiller tamer or auto-pilot this
> year.
>
>
>
> Skip
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can fix it easy.  Check out this guide.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yMTRmMzIxYTktMDcxOS00NmMyLTg0ZDQtODg1NjU5N2ZkMGJl/edit?usp=docslist_api

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 3, 2014 1:20 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
> the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We
> decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
> Station.  The antenna was still in place.
>
> I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
> Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have
> headliners etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
> attempting to remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half
> its length after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
> somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One slightly too
> aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
> easier to remove by the way).
>
> So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
> Coax style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
> barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
> experience and advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my
> selling price to zero and may be making a gift of the unit to the
> potential buyer
>
> Mike
>
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Re: Stus-List Quarter stays?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Quarter stay? 
Do you mean runners or checkstays? They should have tails long enough to ease 
the leeward set of blocks to the chainplates. 
They are used differently on fractional rigs than masthead rigs. See Selden 
sight to better understand the various rigging terms. 

http://www.seldenmast.com/files/595-540-E.pdf 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2014 12:26:44 PM 
Subject: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions 



Seems simple but…. 



Sailing a “new to me” mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. I have run into a couple of 
unexpected challenges when running or even on a broad reach. 



I can’t seem to get the either quarter stay out of the way to let the main out 
enough. The lines that control the tension on them are too short to get them 
out of the way. They run through a double set of blocks. Is that just a rigging 
mistake or am I missing something? (I just took the boat the way it was 
rigged). It seems to be a lot of unnecessary work to have to re-thread the 
blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle. 



Also, when running is winging the jib a common (or acceptable) practice with 
such a large sail (135 I think)? If so, I would appreciate a suggestion or two 
in that direction. I don’t have a good enough crew to fly the spinnaker. In 
fact assume I am single handing but with someone to occasionally watch the 
tiller for me. No tiller tamer or auto-pilot this year. 



Skip 





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Re: Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Probably safe for a few more YEARS as long as you keep a close eye on the
fluid level.  It will be more work to keep the bildge clear of oil.  Just
get a oil absorbing pillow.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Sep 3, 2014 5:09 PM, "Spencer Johnson via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We just completed our 2nd annual Grand Sailing Adventure - 2 weeks
> cruising.  We went over 500 miles (Racine WI to Charlevoix MI) and back and
> motored most of it. Near the end I noticed transmission fluid leaking - or
> spraying - underneath the trans.  LF38 with a Westerbeke 27 and a V-Drive
> transmission.  I've never had any issues with oil or trans leaking.  I
> checked the fluid levels...no detectable decrease on the dipstick, but,
> there is only about a quarter inch area at the bottom of the stick to show
> the fluid levels.  When I wiped the bottom of the trans off with a paper
> towel I could not detect where the fluid was coming from.  It doesn't
> appear to be a drip, but, more like a spray just underneath the trans.
> I might suspect some sort of seal between the trans and shaft, but, am
> pretty clueless about how it is all put together.
> Has anybody else encountered a similar problem?   I am asking for a
> probable diagnosis and how much trouble I am in for.  I have about 6 weeks
> left in the season with a few weekend sails and then, probably, motoring
> for 5 hours or so to the winter haulout.
> Am I safe to keep using it?  It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud
> clunk when shifting from neutral to forward or reversebut it hasn't
> slipped or failed.  yet...
>
>
>  Spencer Johnson
> 1984 LF38 "Alegria"
> Racine, WI
> (home in Mount Prospect, IL)
>
> ___
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>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

We just completed our 2nd annual Grand Sailing Adventure - 2 weeks cruising.  
We went over 500 miles (Racine WI to Charlevoix MI) and back and motored most 
of it. Near the end I noticed transmission fluid leaking - or spraying - 
underneath the trans.  LF38 with a Westerbeke 27 and a V-Drive transmission.  
I've never had any issues with oil or trans leaking.  I checked the fluid 
levels...no detectable decrease on the dipstick, but, there is only about a 
quarter inch area at the bottom of the stick to show the fluid levels.  When I 
wiped the bottom of the trans off with a paper towel I could not detect where 
the fluid was coming from.  It doesn't appear to be a drip, but, more like a 
spray just underneath the trans.
I might suspect some sort of seal between the trans and shaft, but, am pretty 
clueless about how it is all put together.
Has anybody else encountered a similar problem?   I am asking for a probable 
diagnosis and how much trouble I am in for.  I have about 6 weeks left in the 
season with a few weekend sails and then, probably, motoring for 5 hours or so 
to the winter haulout.
Am I safe to keep using it?  It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud 
clunk when shifting from neutral to forward or reversebut it hasn't slipped 
or failed.  yet...




Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine, WI
(home in Mount Prospect, IL)
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Mike,



I had Perceptions (1985 C&C 33-II) apart (again) last weekend to fish a new GPS 
antenna.



Mine has the compass, which removes with bolts 2 visible, 2 hidden under caps.



Once the compass is off there are 4 bolts that hold the compass base to the  
pedestal - they pass thru the cylinder with the engine controls, and thread 
into the compass base. Be prepared for these to be very difficult to remove if 
they have not been done for a while! You will likely want to order replacement 
bolts before removing them . The first time I did it they were seized. The 
new ones from Edson are aluminum so no compatibility issues. While I had it 
apart I did replace the bushings on the throttle and shifter levers. Call Edson 
- they are very helpful.



Here is the diagram of the Pedestal from Edson's website -:  
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/ped_repl_parts.php



Where do you keep your boat? There is a large fleet of C&C 33-II's in Oakville, 
Burlington & Hamilton that race as a class  We are at Newport Yacht Club in 
Stoney Creek.



Paul Fountain



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2014 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Pedestal



I'd'like to have a look inside my pedestal because the shaft that my wheel is 
mounted on slides in and out about 1/2" which is a bit disconcerting.



I have a 1986 CC 33' mk2 with an Edson pedestal. The compass is mounted on a 
circular wooden plate. The wood is mounted on a cylinder that has the 
transmission and throttle levers.



Any tips for opening all this up?



Thanks,

Mike



Atacama, Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.

Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

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Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

[David via CnC-List]

Cant you guys trailer?

UPDATE!   Website now has dockage contact info and I sent an email out with a 
reservation form attached that is now is limbo as it may be too large for 
distribution.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: e...@schillay.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:33:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I will be in the same position as Edd.   I will not be able to come by boat but 
intend to drive up with my wife and will attend dinner and events.  Would love 
to daysail on someones boat who is attending.   Jerry J&J 27MkV.

 






 






 






-Original Message-


From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 


To: David ; cnc-list 


Sent: Wed, Sep 3, 2014 1:14 pm


Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)













David,








Sorry to report that work scheduling is going to keep the Enterprise 
from attending from Western Long Island Sound. My wife and I are, however, 
planning to come up by car and stay in Newport during the rendezvous. 










We’ll see you on the dock (assuming you guys actually get a dock). 












All the best,










Edd

















Edd M. Schillay



Starship Enterprise



C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B



City Island, NY 





Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log












On Sep 3, 2014, at 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:





To all attendees and wanna be attendees...





We are still waiting for contracts etc from The Alofsin Docks.  We hope to have 
something before we get there but I am not hopeful. 





Worst case...we all show up and we will figure it out on the fly.





Not my way to run a railroad, but it is not my railroad.  





FYI we are using The Alofsin Docks because it is a great venue (next to 
Yachting Museum), keeps us all together (as opposed to spread out all over 
marina) and it is relatively inexpensive dock space. 





Also If you have signed up and have not paid the fee you will not show up on 
the "Who's Coming" list until you pay the fee.





Sorry I could not be more specific.   See you in a few weeks!











David F. Risch


1981 40-2


(401) 419-4650 (cell)




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Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

[Debra Crockett Morgan via CnC-List]

We have an airhead composting toilet as well. We are quite pleased. Even though 
the PO had it all pumped out, cleaned out, etc, we hated smelling the tank, 
hoses, and stuff. And we had never even used them because we don't have a pump 
out facility on our reservoir! The day we pulled the head and the tank out was 
a happy one for me. And the Air Head is great!!

-Original Message-
From: "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎9/‎3/‎2014 12:22 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List smelly head and tank

I am converting to a composting toilet (Air Head) in a couple weeks.  I don't 
understand why more people on this list have not done the same.  When I go into 
someone else's boat I can almost always smell their holding 
tank/hoses/whatever.  I think people just get used to smelling it and don't 
notice it after a while.  I think they are all smelly.


Flushing with fresh water helps because it eliminates the odor of dying sea 
creatures that would come in thru the seawater intake but it does not eliminate 
all odors since the primary substance being flushed is still smelly.


A larger vent will probably help the most (even up to 1" in diameter).


We only have a 15-gallon holding tank which only lasts a few days at most.  So, 
frequent pump outs are necessary and it is becoming costly.  The Air Head will 
pay for itself in 2 to 4 years based on saving pump out costs alone.  


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___
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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

rather than electric tape, save some of the insulator material, split it and 
place over the soldered central conductor.  The rest is same.

Leslie.


On Wed, 9/3/14, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question
 To: "'Hoyt, Mike'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wednesday, September 3, 2014, 11:21 AM
 
 Mike
 
 I have had good luck soldering the central
 conductors of the coax cable ends
 together,
 then wrap that soldered joint with electrical tape, then
 slide the
 shield wire together on top of the
 electrical tape as well as yo can, and
 wrap
 it with aluminium foil.  Before you start put shrink wrap
 on one of the
 separated cable parts and
 after the aluminium wrap is on slide the shrink
 warp over the foil and heat to get a tight
 seal...about 2 inches either side
 of the
 joint should be good. This works fine on my gps antenna wire
 and the
 joint is only slightly larger
 diameter than the original wire.
 
 Dwight Veinot
 C&C 35MKII,
 Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay,
 NS
  
 -Original
 Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Hoyt,
 Mike via CnC-List
 Sent: September 3, 2014 2:21 PM
 To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net;
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup
 question
 
 Our new to us boat
 came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
 the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a
 much newer Garmin 740.  We
 decided to
 replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at
 Nav
 Station.  The antenna was still in
 place.
 
 I had posted the
 Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
 Unfortunately now that we have a liveable
 interior we also have
 headliners etc which
 are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
 attempting to remove the Antenna I had the
 cable removed for about half
 its length
 after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
 somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat. 
 One slightly too
 aggressive tug and I now
 have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
 easier to remove by the way).
 
 So I have been reading about
 splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
 Coax style and there has been a lot of
 information that BNC ends and a
 barrel
 connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
 experience and advice on this?  I think I may
 have just reduced my
 selling price to zero
 and may be making a gift of the unit to the
 potential buyer
 
 Mike
 
 ___
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 page at:
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 No virus
 found in this message.
 Checked by AVG -
 www.avg.com
 Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus
 Database: 4015/8124 - Release Date: 08/29/14
 
 
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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[dwight via CnC-List]

My old Furuno 1720 radar has about 13 conductors, some the same color but
different thickenesses...I spliced them all together just by twisting the
central wires together and taping the joints...takes a fair bit of time but
my signal is my better and much more reliable than the old connector pieces
that were supplied with the cable.  The joint section is inside the boat
under the settee near the base of the mast with several feet of wire to
spare on either side so I could do this work in good light and without
contorting my body totally out of shape...no need for shrink warp because
the joint is dry inside the cabin...I feel this was easier than insatalling
a proper connector similar to that which came with the radar unit and the
repair has never failed me.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: September 3, 2014 2:29 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

Using good quality and correctly installed BNC connectors should allow
enough signal to reach the receiver.  There are some good tutorials on the
interwebs on how to install a BNC connector.

Adding a splice or connector to coax can degrade the signal strength but the
better quality connectors are used all the time in other communication gear.
Some cables are tuned.  You might see this on a depth sounder.  Some cables
have many conductors (radar) and are difficult to splice.

I would increase the price with the added feature of more installation
options.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 10:21 AM
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with the
GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We decided
to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav Station.  The
antenna was still in place.

I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have headliners
etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While attempting to
remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half its length after
removing way to many access panels but it was stuck somewhere in the nether
reaches of the boat.  One slightly too aggressive tug and I now have an
antenna with two pieces of cable (much easier to remove by the way).

So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is Coax
style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a barrel
connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have experience and
advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my selling price to zero
and may be making a gift of the unit to the potential buyer

Mike

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus Database: 4015/8124 - Release Date: 08/29/14


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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the radio amateur handbook has very useful information on splicing.  Including 
'how good' you can make them.  Many libraries have it.

Leslie


On Wed, 9/3/14, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question
 To: "Hoyt, Mike" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Wednesday, September 3, 2014, 10:28 AM
 
 Using good quality and
 correctly installed BNC connectors should allow enough
 signal to reach the receiver.  There are some good
 tutorials on the interwebs on how to install a BNC
 connector.
 
 Adding a splice
 or connector to coax can degrade the signal strength but the
 better quality connectors are used all the time in other
 communication gear.  Some cables are tuned.  You might see
 this on a depth sounder.  Some cables have many conductors
 (radar) and are difficult to splice.
 
 I would increase the price with the added
 feature of more installation options.
 
 Martin
 Calypso
 1971 C&C 43
 Seattle
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Wednesday, September 03, 2014 10:21 AM
 To:
 mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net;
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup
 question
 
 Our new to us boat
 came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with the
 GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin
 740.  We decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD
 chartplotter at Nav Station.  The antenna was still in
 place.
 
 I had posted the
 Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
 Unfortunately now that we have a liveable
 interior we also have headliners etc which are one of the
 biggest curses on a sailboat.  While attempting to remove
 the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half its
 length after removing way to many access panels but it was
 stuck somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One
 slightly too aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with
 two pieces of cable (much easier to remove by the way).
 
 So I have been reading about
 splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is Coax style and
 there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
 barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred)
 have experience and advice on this?  I think I may have
 just reduced my selling price to zero and may be making a
 gift of the unit to the potential buyer
 
 Mike
 
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water pump

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

This spring, I was able to replace the diaphragm and valve seals on the Jabsco 
pump from my 1988 30-2 to stop a leak.  It sounds very similar to yours.  That 
model number does not look current, but here is a good selection of rebuild 
kits:


http://www.defender.com/itt-jabsco-pump-service-kits.jsp


Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 








Sent from Windows Mail





From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎September‎ ‎3‎, ‎2014 ‎10‎:‎11‎ ‎AM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List










Where is the leak?  Service kits may be available for this pump.  Jabsco 
renumbered their pumps some time ago.  This pump may use the same service kit 
as a current pump.


Barring that, both the Par and Shurflo pumps have good reliability.  My 
experience seems to indicate the Shurflo pumps are slightly quieter.  Both have 
available service kits.

I would look at the Shurflo 3.0 GPM Aqua King or the Par Max 2.9 GPM.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA 




On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 8:28 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Good am all, 

We had another great weekend on the boat and I finally confirmed that my fresh 
water pump is the culprit on the leak I've had for a couple months.  Easier to 
fix than finding a leak in the hoses or at a joint somewhere..   

The Pump is the original Jabsco with diaphragm and plunger looking thing  model 
500736 I believe.  

 I only have 3 outlets on board so the extra capacity models can  be excluded.  
Also, I don't really want to up the pressure as I don't want to have to re-wire 
for more amps and I don't want to overstress the aging plastic connections 
(I've replaced a few already... Not fun) 

So that leaves us with the 3.0 GPM range automatic pumps 6 amps or so draw, 40 
or so PSI  I'd like something quieter and less pulsating would be nice.  I have 
seen an accumulator in the aft sail locker but I don't think it's connected, it 
was probably working in tandem with the missing water heater..(Yet another 
project there) . 

Even narrowed down, there is still a bewildering array of brands, technologies, 
and prices..  

Any suggestions and prior experience wisdom is much appreciated.. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[dwight via CnC-List]

Mike

I have had good luck soldering the central conductors of the coax cable ends
together, then wrap that soldered joint with electrical tape, then slide the
shield wire together on top of the electrical tape as well as yo can, and
wrap it with aluminium foil.  Before you start put shrink wrap on one of the
separated cable parts and after the aluminium wrap is on slide the shrink
warp over the foil and heat to get a tight seal...about 2 inches either side
of the joint should be good. This works fine on my gps antenna wire and the
joint is only slightly larger diameter than the original wire.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: September 3, 2014 2:21 PM
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We
decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
Station.  The antenna was still in place.

I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have
headliners etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
attempting to remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half
its length after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One slightly too
aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
easier to remove by the way).

So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
Coax style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
experience and advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my
selling price to zero and may be making a gift of the unit to the
potential buyer

Mike

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus Database: 4015/8124 - Release Date: 08/29/14


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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — if it’s RG58 cable, try one of these Shakespeare solderless butt splices:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028695|2029069&id=181454

That should do the trick.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Sep 3, 2014, at 12:20 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
> the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We
> decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
> Station.  The antenna was still in place.
> 
> I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
> Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have
> headliners etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
> attempting to remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half
> its length after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
> somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One slightly too
> aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
> easier to remove by the way).
> 
> So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
> Coax style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
> barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
> experience and advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my
> selling price to zero and may be making a gift of the unit to the
> potential buyer
> 
> Mike
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Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I will be in the same position as Edd.   I will not be able to come by boat but 
intend to drive up with my wife and will attend dinner and events.  Would love 
to daysail on someones boat who is attending.   Jerry J&J 27MkV.
 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: David ; cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Sep 3, 2014 1:14 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)


David,


Sorry to report that work scheduling is going to keep the Enterprise 
from attending from Western Long Island Sound. My wife and I are, however, 
planning to come up by car and stay in Newport during the rendezvous. 


We’ll see you on the dock (assuming you guys actually get a dock). 




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


On Sep 3, 2014, at 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:



To all attendees and wanna be attendees...

We are still waiting for contracts etc from The Alofsin Docks.  We hope to have 
something before we get there but I am not hopeful. 

Worst case...we all show up and we will figure it out on the fly.

Not my way to run a railroad, but it is not my railroad.  

FYI we are using The Alofsin Docks because it is a great venue (next to 
Yachting Museum), keeps us all together (as opposed to spread out all over 
marina) and it is relatively inexpensive dock space. 

Also If you have signed up and have not paid the fee you will not show up on 
the "Who's Coming" list until you pay the fee.

Sorry I could not be more specific.   See you in a few weeks!



David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Using good quality and correctly installed BNC connectors should allow enough 
signal to reach the receiver.  There are some good tutorials on the interwebs 
on how to install a BNC connector.

Adding a splice or connector to coax can degrade the signal strength but the 
better quality connectors are used all the time in other communication gear.  
Some cables are tuned.  You might see this on a depth sounder.  Some cables 
have many conductors (radar) and are difficult to splice.

I would increase the price with the added feature of more installation options.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 10:21 AM
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List dummy move and followup question

Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with the 
GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We decided to 
replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav Station.  The 
antenna was still in place.

I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have headliners etc 
which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While attempting to remove 
the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half its length after removing 
way to many access panels but it was stuck somewhere in the nether reaches of 
the boat.  One slightly too aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two 
pieces of cable (much easier to remove by the way).

So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is Coax 
style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a barrel 
connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have experience and advice 
on this?  I think I may have just reduced my selling price to zero and may be 
making a gift of the unit to the potential buyer

Mike

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Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We
decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
Station.  The antenna was still in place.

I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have
headliners etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
attempting to remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half
its length after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One slightly too
aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
easier to remove by the way).

So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
Coax style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
experience and advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my
selling price to zero and may be making a gift of the unit to the
potential buyer

Mike

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Re: Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

Sorry to report that work scheduling is going to keep the Enterprise 
from attending from Western Long Island Sound. My wife and I are, however, 
planning to come up by car and stay in Newport during the rendezvous. 

We’ll see you on the dock (assuming you guys actually get a dock). 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Sep 3, 2014, at 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:

> To all attendees and wanna be attendees...
> 
> We are still waiting for contracts etc from The Alofsin Docks.  We hope to 
> have something before we get there but I am not hopeful. 
> 
> Worst case...we all show up and we will figure it out on the fly.
> 
> Not my way to run a railroad, but it is not my railroad.  
> 
> FYI we are using The Alofsin Docks because it is a great venue (next to 
> Yachting Museum), keeps us all together (as opposed to spread out all over 
> marina) and it is relatively inexpensive dock space. 
> 
> Also If you have signed up and have not paid the fee you will not show up on 
> the "Who's Coming" list until you pay the fee.
> 
> Sorry I could not be more specific.   See you in a few weeks!
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
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Stus-List Pedestal

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'd'like to have a look inside my pedestal because the shaft that my wheel is 
mounted on slides in and out about 1/2" which is a bit disconcerting.  

I have a 1986 CC 33' mk2 with an Edson pedestal. The compass is mounted on a 
circular wooden plate. The wood is mounted on a cylinder that has the 
transmission and throttle levers. 

Any tips for opening all this up?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama, Toronto  
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I can't respond to the stay question, as I don't have those, but you can fly 
your jib 'wing and wing' using a whisker or your spinnaker pole. I do it all 
the time with a 155. Pole hooked to mast and the jib sheet. If you have a pole 
lift (topping lift), that makes it easier and keeps the pole from bouncing 
around so much.

Give it a try - I would recommend a preventer for the boom, as you are flirting 
with the boom flying across the boat as you are going dead downwind. I rig a 
line from a mid boom bail forward to a snatch block on the rail a bit forward 
of the shrouds then back to a block on the side of the cabin - if you don't 
have that, you will have to improvise.

Good luck, 
Gary
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 12:26 PM
  Subject: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions


  Seems simple but..

   

  Sailing a "new to me" mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. I have run into a couple of 
unexpected challenges when running or even on a broad reach.

   

  I can't seem to get the either quarter stay out of the way to let the main 
out enough. The lines that control the tension on them are too short to get 
them out of the way. They run through a double set of blocks. Is that just a 
rigging mistake or am I missing something? (I just took the boat the way it was 
rigged). It seems to be a lot of unnecessary work to have to re-thread the 
blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle.

   

  Also, when running is winging the jib a common (or acceptable) practice with 
such a large sail (135 I think)?  If so, I would appreciate a suggestion or two 
in that direction. I don't have a good enough crew to fly the spinnaker. In 
fact assume I am single handing but with someone to occasionally watch the 
tiller for me. No tiller tamer or auto-pilot this year.

   

  Skip  

   




--


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Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

[dwight via CnC-List]

About 5 years ago I removed a Wilcox Crittendon Headmate from Alianna and
replaced it with an electric marine toilet.  At that time I also replaced
all of the associated sanitary hoses and valves.  I flush only with salt
water and have never used the holding tank even though I have it setup to
use at the switch of a 2-way valve. I have never added chlorox or for that
matter anything else, except in winter when the entire system is filled with
a 50/50 automotive ethylene glycol/water solution.  I have not experienced
any head related odors since this change over and now after installing a 4
inch solar vent in the main cabin the boat interior smells quite fresh even
after several days of being locked up on the mooring.  I believe the biggest
improvement resulted from installing the new valves and sanitary hoses. I
always do a lengthy flush before leaving the boat, but that flush is still
done with salt water.  I feel very fortunate for my situation but I can
assure you that changing out the old head and sanitary hoses was a very
unpleasant job.  I am not sure what useful lifetime this system has but my
experience suggests that old sanitary lines can contribute to head odor
related issues and when I start to notice odors again I will take it as an
indication that those lines need changing.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: September 3, 2014 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List smelly head and tank

 

I am converting to a composting toilet (Air Head) in a couple weeks.  I
don't understand why more people on this list have not done the same.  When
I go into someone else's boat I can almost always smell their holding
tank/hoses/whatever.  I think people just get used to smelling it and don't
notice it after a while.  I think they are all smelly.

 

Flushing with fresh water helps because it eliminates the odor of dying sea
creatures that would come in thru the seawater intake but it does not
eliminate all odors since the primary substance being flushed is still
smelly.

 

A larger vent will probably help the most (even up to 1" in diameter).

 

We only have a 15-gallon holding tank which only lasts a few days at most.
So, frequent pump outs are necessary and it is becoming costly.  The Air
Head will pay for itself in 2 to 4 years based on saving pump out costs
alone.  

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus Database: 4015/8124 - Release Date: 08/29/14

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Stus-List 2014 C & C NE Rendezvous Update (sorta)

[David via CnC-List]

To all attendees and wanna be attendees...

We are still waiting for contracts etc from The Alofsin Docks.  We hope to have 
something before we get there but I am not hopeful. 

Worst case...we all show up and we will figure it out on the fly.

Not my way to run a railroad, but it is not my railroad.  

FYI we are using The Alofsin Docks because it is a great venue (next to 
Yachting Museum), keeps us all together (as opposed to spread out all over 
marina) and it is relatively inexpensive dock space. 

Also If you have signed up and have not paid the fee you will not show up on 
the "Who's Coming" list until you pay the fee.

Sorry I could not be more specific.   See you in a few weeks!



David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Seems simple but..

 

Sailing a "new to me" mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. I have run into a couple of
unexpected challenges when running or even on a broad reach.

 

I can't seem to get the either quarter stay out of the way to let the main
out enough. The lines that control the tension on them are too short to get
them out of the way. They run through a double set of blocks. Is that just a
rigging mistake or am I missing something? (I just took the boat the way it
was rigged). It seems to be a lot of unnecessary work to have to re-thread
the blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle.

 

Also, when running is winging the jib a common (or acceptable) practice with
such a large sail (135 I think)?  If so, I would appreciate a suggestion or
two in that direction. I don't have a good enough crew to fly the spinnaker.
In fact assume I am single handing but with someone to occasionally watch
the tiller for me. No tiller tamer or auto-pilot this year.

 

Skip  

 

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Stus-List smelly head and tank

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I am converting to a composting toilet (Air Head) in a couple weeks.  I don't 
understand why more people on this list have not done the same.  When I go into 
someone else's boat I can almost always smell their holding 
tank/hoses/whatever.  I think people just get used to smelling it and don't 
notice it after a while.  I think they are all smelly.

Flushing with fresh water helps because it eliminates the odor of dying sea 
creatures that would come in thru the seawater intake but it does not eliminate 
all odors since the primary substance being flushed is still smelly.

A larger vent will probably help the most (even up to 1" in diameter).

We only have a 15-gallon holding tank which only lasts a few days at most.  So, 
frequent pump outs are necessary and it is becoming costly.  The Air Head will 
pay for itself in 2 to 4 years based on saving pump out costs alone.  

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

<>

 

Who’s in Charge – You or the Mainsail? (Sail 2 - June 02.doc)

 

Tom Cunliffe encourages a positive attitude to sailing a yacht, but recalls 
that the sea is always ready to embarrass even the smartest boat-handlers 

‘No need to wait for wind and tide,

You’re the masters of the sea!’

So sang Ewan McColl about the first steam driftermen as they joyously consigned 
their sailing smacks to history and put out into the gales of 1903 with a 
different point of view. The revolution of marine propulsion transformed the 
mindset of sailors for ever.

It  isn’t for fun that young deck officers are still sent to sea in square 
riggers, and the US Coastguard intend far more than a boost for national 
prestige when they commission the bark Eagle year after year. Nothing teaches 
the way of a ship on the ocean like a sailing vessel. High up on the yards, the 
youngsters take in a turbo-charged hit of self-knowledge and team-work while 
gulping down a lively appreciation of their own mortality. Down on the bridge, 
the decision-makers are absorbing a feel for the definitive limits beyond which 
a wind-driven vessel cannot pass. As this becomes instinctive it not only 
improves general ship-handling, it also generates an acceptance of the sea as a 
greater power which marks out better sailors, whatever their ultimate branch of 
the calling.

In a modest way, the same can be true of yachting, yet many of us are content 
not to extend our sailing ability, preferring to settle for the sort of 
reasonably snappy performance under power which we all can achieve within a few 
years. Some, however, choose to perform as many maneuvers as possible under 
canvas simply for their own satisfaction. Most of the time, the different 
results of these two approaches are unimportant in terms of ultimate safety. 
Occasionally, the ability to understand a boat fully that only comes with 
having her stop, start and even go sideways under sail alone, can make a real 
difference.

Learning to handle a boat is a multi-faceted process. I was lucky enough to cut 
my teeth in an engineless 25ft cruiser as a teenager. I had stored away the 
essentials of sailing alongside long before mastering the secret of tight turns 
under power, so that at eighteen I truly imagined myself a sailor. It was only 
while studying a subject far removed from seafaring at University that I 
discovered competitive dinghy racing and found how wrong I was. I also became a 
strong swimmer by default. Youth being the stuff of adventure, we only bothered 
to launch the boats when the wind was strong enough to make them plane, and my 
training sessions ended in wipe-out so often that my room was permanently 
festooned with foul-smelling woollies. It took weeks of floundering in the cold 
sea before I fathomed the reason for all those capsizes at the windward mark.

The answer was simple. I’d been trying to bear away with my mainsail pinned in, 
just as I always had in the friendly cruisers that had let me get away with 
such a crime. One day, I noticed that sailors with classier acts than mine 
released their mainsheets as they upped the helm. I tried it and the effect was 
magical. Instead of going into a hideous, unbalanced gripe that tipped me and 
my long-suffering crew into the Sound, the lively little boat came upright and 
bore away readily onto a thrilling, stable plane. Next, I spotted my unwitting 
mentors heaving in their mainsheets to luff up from a standing start, and the 
whole thing suddenly made sense. Instead of going to lectures, I now spent 
hours in the boats. First, I steered with the sails when the boat was going too 
slowly for the rudder to work. Next, I cracked the knack of balancing sheet and 
helm at speed, rather than suffer the results of one fighting the other. The 
graduation to sterner stuff came later, but my schooling is so deeply embedded 
that even today I can feel an over-sheeted mainsail from my bunk. Anyone else 
trained in dinghies would say the same.

Not long ago, I examined an experienced yachtsman for a coastal skipper’s 
ticket. He was safe enough on passage and proved a caring captain who only came 
unstuck when I asked him to work out of a creek under sail in a stiff breeze. 
The waterway was dotted with moorings, not all of which had been laid as 
conveniently as the casual caller might have wished. At the last bend before 
the sea, a pricey-looking yacht tethered to a large buoy selected exactly the 
wrong moment to swing across our path. Any attempt to luff up would have 
stranded us in the reeds, so our skipper correctly opted to bear away. As if in 
a motorboat, he ignored all the controls but the wheel, which he cranked well 
over. The effect was absolute zero, except for a rushing sound of turbulent 
water from aft as the rudder stalled. Realizing his predicament, but having no 
idea what to do about it, he shoved the wheel hard against the stops. As his 
knuckles went white, the boat heeled deeply in a de

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Where is the leak?  Service kits may be available for this pump.  Jabsco
renumbered their pumps some time ago.  This pump may use the same service
kit as a current pump.

Barring that, both the Par and Shurflo pumps have good reliability.  My
experience seems to indicate the Shurflo pumps are slightly quieter.  Both
have available service kits.

I would look at the Shurflo 3.0 GPM Aqua King or the Par Max 2.9 GPM.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 8:28 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>Good am all,
>
>We had another great weekend on the boat and I finally confirmed that
>my fresh water pump is the culprit on the leak I've had for a couple
>months.  Easier to fix than finding a leak in the hoses or at a joint
>somewhere..
>
>The Pump is the original Jabsco with diaphragm and plunger looking
>thing  model 500736 I believe.
>
> I only have 3 outlets on board so the extra capacity models can  be
>excluded.  Also, I don't really want to up the pressure as I don't want to
>have to re-wire for more amps and I don't want to overstress the aging
>plastic connections (I've replaced a few already... Not fun)
>
>So that leaves us with the 3.0 GPM range automatic pumps 6 amps or so
>draw, 40 or so PSI  I'd like something quieter and less pulsating would be
>nice.  I have seen an accumulator in the aft sail locker but I don't think
>it's connected, it was probably working in tandem with the missing water
>heater..(Yet another project there) .
>
>Even narrowed down, there is still a bewildering array of brands,
>technologies, and prices..
>
>Any suggestions and prior experience wisdom is much appreciated..
>
>
>-Francois Rivard
>1990 34+  "Take Five"
>Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

When I first bought my boat and pulled into the dock boat crashed into 
bulkhead.  Turned out the thread on the transmission cable unthreaded from the 
connecter at the transmission. No matter how much I tightened the lock nut is 
worked its way out.   Finally I put lock tight on the thread and it has held 
though replacement of the cable and threaded arm would be a more permanent 
solution.  Jerry.  C & C. 27V J & J. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 3, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You all make me feel good about having just replaced my transmission cable - 
> while safely doing other things in the marina. Now I'm starting to think 
> about the probably 34 year old throttle cableI can imagine the "funny" 
> story possibilities.
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 9:37 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> As a kid I was on a charter boat coming into the main pier in Gallilee RI on 
>> a holiday weekend.  The skipper shifted into reverse and when nothing 
>> happened  yelled LOOKOUT.  Tore off the bow rail.  If it were low tide the 
>> cabin or flybridge would have stopped us!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Coming into Fog Cove, which is a very confined area full of anchored boats, 
>>> I went to shift into reverse and the shifter was just loose – no connection 
>>> to the engine anymore. I aimed the boat towards the most open space I could 
>>> find, gave my wife the helm, and dove into the cockpit locker. I was trying 
>>> to get the clevis pin back in its place when my foot hit the accumulator 
>>> tank and knocked the hose off it. The hose whipped around and was shooting 
>>> water straight up my back while I was doing this. I think I used up my 
>>> entire store of creative cursing in 30 seconds!
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> Coquina
>>> 
>>> C&C 35 MK I
>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
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Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Everyone will jump on this but nothing beats a little Clorox flushed in or 
poored into pump out.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 3, 2014, at 10:44 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Bev,
> 
> A couple of things from my experience of a smelly tank after launch this year:
> - If the holding tank is smelling, make sure your holding tank vent is 
> working.  Anaerobic bacteria cause the particularly noxious smells; they are 
> replaced with aerobic, less smelly, bacteria if there is sufficient oxygen 
> supply.  My solar powered fan on the fore hatch broke early this season and 
> the tank started smelling.  Replacing that vent fan seemed to cause enough 
> ventilation of the tank (under the v-berth) to solve the issue, so any minute 
> air circulation will help (the vent wasn't blocked).  Similarly, getting rid 
> of mud from a wasp nest in the vent hull outlet solved an issue a couple of 
> years back.  
> You are going to have some salt water / waste in the tank regardless of 
> ending the flush with fresh water.  Vinegar dissolves salt residue in the 
> hoses / tank - flushing a few gallons of white wine vinegar through the head 
> and then a nice upwind slog into steep chop should clear any build-up out at 
> the next pump out.
> - if the head is smelling, the fresh water flush will prevent decomposition 
> in the bowl, but make sure that the valves on the head pump / outlet aren't 
> letting anything to flow back from the outlet hose.  The joker valve is the 
> usual suspect, but if you're having to pump a lot to prime the pump to get 
> flush water flowing, or to empty the bowl you may want to check the other 
> pump valves too (advice from the list would be to replace the pump assembly 
> completely).
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Sep 2, 2014 at 10:11 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Four years ago I replaced all the hoses for the 29-2. The boat is used by 
>> the family with three young children. The head and holding tank is smelling. 
>> What is the best way to get rid of this. I could replace the hoses etc. Any 
>> advice?
>> 
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Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,

A couple of things from my experience of a smelly tank after launch this
year:
- If the holding tank is smelling, make sure your holding tank vent is
working.  Anaerobic bacteria cause the particularly noxious smells; they
are replaced with aerobic, less smelly, bacteria if there is sufficient
oxygen supply.  My solar powered fan on the fore hatch broke early this
season and the tank started smelling.  Replacing that vent fan seemed to
cause enough ventilation of the tank (under the v-berth) to solve the
issue, so any minute air circulation will help (the vent wasn't blocked).
 Similarly, getting rid of mud from a wasp nest in the vent hull outlet
solved an issue a couple of years back.
You are going to have some salt water / waste in the tank regardless of
ending the flush with fresh water.  Vinegar dissolves salt residue in the
hoses / tank - flushing a few gallons of white wine vinegar through the
head and then a nice upwind slog into steep chop should clear any build-up
out at the next pump out.
- if the head is smelling, the fresh water flush will prevent decomposition
in the bowl, but make sure that the valves on the head pump / outlet aren't
letting anything to flow back from the outlet hose.  The joker valve is the
usual suspect, but if you're having to pump a lot to prime the pump to get
flush water flowing, or to empty the bowl you may want to check the other
pump valves too (advice from the list would be to replace the pump assembly
completely).

Hope this helps.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


On Tue, Sep 2, 2014 at 10:11 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Four years ago I replaced all the hoses for the 29-2. The boat is used by
> the family with three young children. The head and holding tank is
> smelling. What is the best way to get rid of this. I could replace the
> hoses etc. Any advice?
>
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

You all make me feel good about having just replaced my transmission cable
- while safely doing other things in the marina. Now I'm starting to think
about the probably 34 year old throttle cableI can imagine the "funny"
story possibilities.

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 9:37 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As a kid I was on a charter boat coming into the main pier in Gallilee RI
> on a holiday weekend.  The skipper shifted into reverse and when nothing
> happened  yelled LOOKOUT.  Tore off the bow rail.  If it were low tide the
> cabin or flybridge would have stopped us!
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Coming into Fog Cove, which is a very confined area full of anchored
>> boats, I went to shift into reverse and the shifter was just loose – no
>> connection to the engine anymore. I aimed the boat towards the most open
>> space I could find, gave my wife the helm, and dove into the cockpit
>> locker. I was trying to get the clevis pin back in its place when my foot
>> hit the accumulator tank and knocked the hose off it. The hose whipped
>> around and was shooting water straight up my back while I was doing this. I
>> think I used up my entire store of creative cursing in 30 seconds!
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> *Coquina*
>>
>> *C&C 35 MK I*
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

As a kid I was on a charter boat coming into the main pier in Gallilee RI
on a holiday weekend.  The skipper shifted into reverse and when nothing
happened  yelled LOOKOUT.  Tore off the bow rail.  If it were low tide the
cabin or flybridge would have stopped us!

Joel


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Coming into Fog Cove, which is a very confined area full of anchored
> boats, I went to shift into reverse and the shifter was just loose – no
> connection to the engine anymore. I aimed the boat towards the most open
> space I could find, gave my wife the helm, and dove into the cockpit
> locker. I was trying to get the clevis pin back in its place when my foot
> hit the accumulator tank and knocked the hose off it. The hose whipped
> around and was shooting water straight up my back while I was doing this. I
> think I used up my entire store of creative cursing in 30 seconds!
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
> *C&C 35 MK I*
>
> ___
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>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Coming into Fog Cove, which is a very confined area full of anchored boats, I 
went to shift into reverse and the shifter was just loose - no connection to 
the engine anymore. I aimed the boat towards the most open space I could find, 
gave my wife the helm, and dove into the cockpit locker. I was trying to get 
the clevis pin back in its place when my foot hit the accumulator tank and 
knocked the hose off it. The hose whipped around and was shooting water 
straight up my back while I was doing this. I think I used up my entire store 
of creative cursing in 30 seconds!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water pump

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I have one of these:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234226|2234231&id=1449462

Not quiet, but it works!

Joel


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 9:28 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>Good am all,
>
>We had another great weekend on the boat and I finally confirmed that
>my fresh water pump is the culprit on the leak I've had for a couple
>months.  Easier to fix than finding a leak in the hoses or at a joint
>somewhere..
>
>The Pump is the original Jabsco with diaphragm and plunger looking
>thing  model 500736 I believe.
>
> I only have 3 outlets on board so the extra capacity models can  be
>excluded.  Also, I don't really want to up the pressure as I don't want to
>have to re-wire for more amps and I don't want to overstress the aging
>plastic connections (I've replaced a few already... Not fun)
>
>So that leaves us with the 3.0 GPM range automatic pumps 6 amps or so
>draw, 40 or so PSI  I'd like something quieter and less pulsating would be
>nice.  I have seen an accumulator in the aft sail locker but I don't think
>it's connected, it was probably working in tandem with the missing water
>heater..(Yet another project there) .
>
>Even narrowed down, there is still a bewildering array of brands,
>technologies, and prices..
>
>Any suggestions and prior experience wisdom is much appreciated..
>
>
>-Francois Rivard
>1990 34+  "Take Five"
>Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Fresh Water pump

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Good am all,

 We had another great weekend on the boat and I finally confirmed that my
 fresh water pump is the culprit on the leak I've had for a couple months.
 Easier to fix than finding a leak in the hoses or at a joint somewhere..

 The Pump is the original Jabsco with diaphragm and plunger looking thing
 model 500736 I believe.

  I only have 3 outlets on board so the extra capacity models can  be
 excluded.  Also, I don't really want to up the pressure as I don't want to
 have to re-wire for more amps and I don't want to overstress the aging
 plastic connections (I've replaced a few already... Not fun)

 So that leaves us with the 3.0 GPM range automatic pumps 6 amps or so
 draw, 40 or so PSI  I'd like something quieter and less pulsating would be
 nice.  I have seen an accumulator in the aft sail locker but I don't think
 it's connected, it was probably working in tandem with the missing water
 heater..(Yet another project there) .

 Even narrowed down, there is still a bewildering array of brands,
 technologies, and prices..

 Any suggestions and prior experience wisdom is much appreciated..


 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+  "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I second the idea of flushing with fresh water. What really counts is the last 
flush before leaving the boat. It makes a big difference. 

This applies (I hear) especially, if you sail in salt water, but even on a 
lake, the outboard water is not as clean as we would want to believe. So I use 
either water from the sink/shower head or simply some drinking water from a 
bottle. I know of some people who re-plumbed the water intake for the head to 
use the same through-hull as the sink drain. That way you can close the 
through-hull, fill the sink with water and pump it through the head.

Marek

From: Indigo via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 10:40 PM
To: Bev Parslow ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List smelly head and tank

Prevention rather than cure...

Here is what I do. Rarely if ever do I have bad head odor 

Flush only with fresh water - I use the shower head from the sink to flush. 

Pump out regularly - I pump out after each weekend night away, and as 
frequently as possible on cruises. 

Flush thoroughly with fresh water each pump out. I pump lots of fresh water 
through the head as well as filling the tank via the deck fitting. Repeat until 
pump out  "glass " shows clean water.   


--
Jonathan 
Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT

On Sep 2, 2014, at 22:11, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Four years ago I replaced all the hoses for the 29-2. The boat is used by the 
family with three young children. The head and holding tank is smelling. What 
is the best way to get rid of this. I could replace the hoses etc. Any advice?
  ___
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[dwight via CnC-List]

I totally agree.the C&C 35 MKI is a wonderful sail boat and well worth a
diesel repower

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell via CnC-List
Sent: September 3, 2014 7:34 AM
To: Dennis C.; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story
(long)

 

Dennis,

 She sounds like a keeper!

Gary

'75 C&C 35 Mk II

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Tue, Sep 2, 2014 at 10:10 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:

OK, if you've followed this thread about Chris' engine controls, hopefully
you'll enjoy this story.

The Admiral and I were returning to Lake Pontchartrain from a week of
cruising in Pensacola.  I'd planned to repower Touche' from the Atomic 4 to
a Universal 25XPB prior to the trip but just couldn't get everything in
line.  I had ordered and/or received most of the parts for the repower.
(Important to remember)

As we left Pensacola, The Admiral suggested we check our fuel level.  Oops,
the fuel gauge had "died".  I said "No problem, I've ordered a new fuel
gauge and tank.  It's waiting in Mandeville.  I'll replace it when we get
back".  (Remember this)

 

We were in the Pas au Herons Channel north of Dauphin Island, Alabama
bucking high teens on the nose and 2-3 foot seas.  The AT4 was giving it
it's all but we were making 2-3 knots over ground.  I had the main up and
sheeted board tight to help the AT4 best we could.  The Admiral and I
started smelling exhaust fumes.  I lifted the cockpit locker lid to find
soot.  Further investigation suggested a crack in the exhaust piping.  OK,
the exhaust system "died", not really fatal, just smelly.  I told the
Admiral "No problem, I've ordered a new exhaust system.  It's waiting in
Mandeville.  I'll replace it when we get back".  (Remember this)

When overnighted in Gulfport, MS.  The next morning we departed and sailed
up the Marianne Channel towards Lake Pontchartrain.  At the first bridge
coming into the Rigolets (the outlet for Lake Pontchartrain), I cranked the
engine and tried to put it in gear.  The entire shifter/throttle assembly
failed.  The bolts holding the assembly to the bulkhead had sheared.  The
assembly moved rather than shifting or adjusting the RPMs.  OK, now the
engine controls had "died".  I told the Admiral "No problem, I've ordered
engine controls.  They're waiting in Mandeville.  I'll replace it when we
get back".  (Remember this)

At this time, the Admiral slowly turned to me and said "You didn't order a
new girl friend, did you?"

We cracked up.  (Hope you followed the logic.)

Two weeks later, Touche' had a new drive train.  I still have the same
Admiral.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

 


  _  


From: "Chris Price via CnC-List" 
To: "Rick Taillieu" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, September 1, 2014 10:20:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control

 

 

Had an interesting experience today after sailing back from the Wye River.
Came into the dock and had to parallel park as usual using the prop walk to
kick the stern in and stop the boat when the casting that holds the handle
split in half as I was putting the engine in reverse. Fortunately, I don't
approach the dock too fast and was able to bail out without hitting
anything, but could not engage the transmission. The kids on the dock that
were prepared to hand off the mooring lines learned a few new words.

 

I think that the controls are the original Marmac Products controls, and
thanks to Richard Kinder, the previous owner, I have the original parts list
but I suspect Marmac is out of business.. I'll try to have the housing
welded, but it is cheap pot metal. Any thoughts on finding a replacement?
May have to give Bacons a shot.

 

Chris Price

Pradel 35 Mk I


  _  


 

 

 


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus Database: 4015/8124 - Release Date: 08/29/14

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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Dennis,
 She sounds like a keeper!
Gary
'75 C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Sep 2, 2014 at 10:10 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK, if you've followed this thread about Chris' engine controls, hopefully
> you'll enjoy this story.
>
> The Admiral and I were returning to Lake Pontchartrain from a week of
> cruising in Pensacola.  I'd planned to repower Touche' from the Atomic 4 to
> a Universal 25XPB prior to the trip but just couldn't get everything in
> line.  I had ordered and/or received most of the parts for the repower.
> (Important to remember)
>
> As we left Pensacola, The Admiral suggested we check our fuel level.
> Oops, the fuel gauge had "*died*".  I said "No problem, I've ordered a
> new fuel gauge and tank.  It's waiting in Mandeville.  I'll replace it when
> we get back".  (Remember this)
>
> We were in the Pas au Herons Channel north of Dauphin Island, Alabama
> bucking high teens on the nose and 2-3 foot seas.  The AT4 was giving it
> it's all but we were making 2-3 knots over ground.  I had the main up and
> sheeted board tight to help the AT4 best we could.  The Admiral and I
> started smelling exhaust fumes.  I lifted the cockpit locker lid to find
> soot.  Further investigation suggested a crack in the exhaust piping.  OK,
> the exhaust system "*died*", not really fatal, just smelly.  I told the
> Admiral "No problem, I've ordered a new exhaust system.  It's waiting in
> Mandeville.  I'll replace it when we get back".  (Remember this)
>
> When overnighted in Gulfport, MS.  The next morning we departed and sailed
> up the Marianne Channel towards Lake Pontchartrain.  At the first bridge
> coming into the Rigolets (the outlet for Lake Pontchartrain), I cranked the
> engine and tried to put it in gear.  The entire shifter/throttle assembly
> failed.  The bolts holding the assembly to the bulkhead had sheared.  The
> assembly moved rather than shifting or adjusting the RPMs.  OK, now the
> engine controls had "*died*".  I told the Admiral "No problem, I've
> ordered engine controls.  They're waiting in Mandeville.  I'll replace it
> when we get back".  (Remember this)
>
> At this time, the Admiral slowly turned to me and said "You didn't order a
> new girl friend, did you?"
>
> We cracked up.  (Hope you followed the logic.)
>
> Two weeks later, Touche' had a new drive train.  I still have the same
> Admiral.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>> --
>> *From: *"Chris Price via CnC-List" 
>> *To: *"Rick Taillieu" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent: *Monday, September 1, 2014 10:20:30 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control
>>
>>
>> Had an interesting experience today after sailing back from the Wye
>> River. Came into the dock and had to parallel park as usual using the prop
>> walk to kick the stern in and stop the boat when the casting that holds the
>> handle split in half as I was putting the engine in reverse. Fortunately, I
>> don't approach the dock too fast and was able to bail out without hitting
>> anything, but could not engage the transmission. The kids on the dock that
>> were prepared to hand off the mooring lines learned a few new words.
>>
>> I think that the controls are the original Marmac Products controls, and
>> thanks to Richard Kinder, the previous owner, I have the original parts
>> list but I suspect Marmac is out of business.. I'll try to have the housing
>> welded, but it is cheap pot metal. Any thoughts on finding a replacement?
>> May have to give Bacons a shot.
>>
>> Chris Price
>> Pradel 35 Mk I
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
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