Re: Stus-List 3GM Transmission

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Start by making sure the lever is traveling all the way by disconnecting
the cable and comparing the position of the lever once detached.

Joel

On Monday, February 2, 2015, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sounds like the cone is worn, whatever that means. Yes, take it to a
> tranny shop.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 February 2015 at 18:46, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> *My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding
>> prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration  at the end of the season as
>> if the prop wasn’t opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding.
>> I’d put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration)
>> then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it
>> would usually be OK until I slowed down  like when approaching the mooring
>> and then it would happen again.*
>>
>>
>>
>> *I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking
>> to them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment
>> that the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch
>> slipping. When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might
>> indeed be the issue. Apparently the only way I’m going to be able to tell
>> if the refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the
>> boat’s back in the water. Since I really don’t want to miss any of the
>> short season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat’s back in
>> the water and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it’s
>> launched in the spring, I’m leaning towards taking prevent yanking the
>> transmission out, bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt.*
>>
>>
>>
>> *Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced
>> always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed
>> the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would
>> be greatly appreciated.*
>>
>>
>>
>> *Dave*
>>
>> *Saltaire*
>>
>> *Bristol, RI.*
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice!  What is it made from?

On Monday, February 2, 2015, Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> To see my new winter project, a helm seat / boarding ramp, go to:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/119825754@N05/
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

To see my new winter project, a helm seat / boarding ramp, go to: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/119825754@N05/ 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Bill,
That functionality will be in the the next release. The current version
will upload images of your receding boat to the cloud.  - as Wal would
say.
Bob M


On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 5:08 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I thought it you fell over and were watching your boat sail off into the
> sunset, it would be great to be able to pull your phone out of your pocket,
> assuming it still worked, and turn your boat around.  Maybe the Remote
> would still do that,
>



>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  --
>
>
> That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are
> they set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?
>
> Chuck
> Regards
>--
>
>*François Rivard*
>
>  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>
>Big Data Black Belt
>
>  Atlanta, 30327-3015
>
> IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
>
>  Usa
>
> Mobile:
>
> 770-639-0429
>
>
>
>e-mail:
>
> jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 3GM Transmission

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Sounds like the cone is worn, whatever that means. Yes, take it to a tranny
shop.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 February 2015 at 18:46, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> *My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding
> prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration  at the end of the season as
> if the prop wasn’t opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding.
> I’d put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration)
> then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it
> would usually be OK until I slowed down  like when approaching the mooring
> and then it would happen again.*
>
>
>
> *I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking to
> them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment
> that the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch
> slipping. When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might
> indeed be the issue. Apparently the only way I’m going to be able to tell
> if the refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the
> boat’s back in the water. Since I really don’t want to miss any of the
> short season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat’s back in
> the water and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it’s
> launched in the spring, I’m leaning towards taking prevent yanking the
> transmission out, bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt.*
>
>
>
> *Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced
> always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed
> the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would
> be greatly appreciated.*
>
>
>
> *Dave*
>
> *Saltaire*
>
> *Bristol, RI.*
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List 3GM Transmission

[David Jacobs via CnC-List]

 

My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding
prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration  at the end of the season as
if the prop wasn't opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding.
I'd put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration)
then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it
would usually be OK until I slowed down  like when approaching the mooring
and then it would happen again.

 

I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking to
them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment that
the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch slipping.
When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might indeed be the
issue. Apparently the only way I'm going to be able to tell if the
refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the boat's
back in the water. Since I really don't want to miss any of the short
season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat's back in the water
and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it's launched in
the spring, I'm leaning towards taking prevent yanking the transmission out,
bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt.

 

Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced
always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed
the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would
be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave

Saltaire

Bristol, RI.

 

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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

On Imzadi I have a Blue Seas digital voltage meter that I installed several
years ago. It will monitor three battery banks, is very accurate, and I am
happy with it. Knowing the voltage gave me a rough idea of the state of
charge of each bank.

 

But a couple of years ago I helped move a "real" cruising boat. The owner
had just about everything I could think of to provide electric power - wind,
solar, even an auxiliary generator driven off the propeller shaft to charge
the batteries as the prop windmilled while sailing. To monitor his batteries
he had a Link Pro battery monitor.

 

For each bank, it tells current voltage, current amp flow in or out, number
of amp hours used, number of amp hours remaining, and percentage of capacity
remaining. 

 

I decided that the Link Pro was overkill for my needs. I have a large house
bank and a single starting battery - and the starting battery is ALWAYS at
12.5 or 12.6 volts, so I never worry about it. I chose to install a Link
Lite battery monitor. It has all the functions above but for only one main
bank. It does show the voltage for an auxiliary bank, which I have wired to
my start battery. That's redundant, since the same information is on the
Blue Sea meter, but I sort of like that. I seem to recall it does not have
temperature compensation, which the Link Pro offers, but it might be
optional.

 

Installation of the Link Lite was easy. The wiring harness has a pair of
power wires, a sensor wire that goes to the positive terminal of each
battery bank, and one or two wires that go to an included shunt that you
splice into the negative cable of the main bank you are monitoring.

 

When I decided to install my monitor a couple of years ago, the Link Lite
was about $150 to $170 retail IIRC. On EBay they were generally $24 to $40
less. I kept looking short while, and actually bought the one I installed
for under $100 - and it came with a small solar panel that I use to maintain
the batteries on my 25. New in the box, the functionality I needed, and a
bargain to boot.

 

What can I say, I'm cheap.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 8:27 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List State of the Battery

 

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I
have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a
chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a
rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My
understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they
have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current
draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to
run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a
meter that gives you "hours of battery life remaining"?  What strategies to
listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List wanted: used chartplotter

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

You can get a good buy on ebay. Lots to choose from. I purchased a Raymarine 
C80, four years ago, and have bee very happy with it. Whenever new models are 
introduced, older models go way down in price. 

Alan Bergen 
34 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep a volt meter like that could work.  I have a tank sensor from
tankedge.com that has battery voltage monitor and adjustable low voltage
alarm.  That's at the nav station.  On deck, my GPS/chartploter monitors
voltage and also has an adjustable alarm.

You might try one of these before doing something permanent.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_box_automotive?k=12v+cigarette+voltmeter

Josh
On Feb 2, 2015 1:57 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Josh,
> Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
> With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be
> wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn).  But I
> was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on
> drain.
> Say something like
>
> http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO
>
> I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring,
> and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions.
> Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely
> stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and
> house.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter.  Discharging a flooded deep
> cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly
> equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou
> get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its
> effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the number of
> cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating convention is that a deep
> cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number
> increases when the depth of discharge is reduced.
>
> When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" voltage
> after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to remember a
> capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery
> will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this
> convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total
> of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v
> I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I can go about 2 days
> in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry.
> The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me
> pretty well topped up.
>
> I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 2000
> that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it
> has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow
> bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
>
>
> http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons,  MD
>  On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this
>> list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in
>> the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the
>> state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be
>> available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the
>> batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I
>> have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important
>> function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a
>> while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure
>> if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if
>> it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?
>> Can you get a meter that gives you "hours of battery life remaining"?  What
>> strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>>  Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I was starting to lean towards the e7 or e95/97, they look interesting, but 
then I just discovered after downloading the 464 page manual that it doesn’t 
have the Layline/Windrose function. That is a deal killer. Also, for phone 
apps, it is either the RayRemote or RayView – they don’t want you using 
anything but a tablet for the RayControl due to the smallness of the buttons.

I thought it you fell over and were watching your boat sail off into the 
sunset, it would be great to be able to pull your phone out of your pocket, 
assuming it still worked, and turn your boat around.  Maybe the Remote would 
still do that, not sure as some of these units don’t want you to use the 
autopilot remotely.  

I see the Defender sale has ended early, so the pressure is off.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39


Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

 

Bill,

 

Wifi is built into the Ray for the Ray phone/tablet apps.  Not for a laptop.

I agree the old Ray stuff was not user-friendly, but the current stuff really 
is!

Let us know what you select.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 12:07 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Lots of great info, thanks to all for their input.

In reading the manuals many things become more clear.

Garmin is a little more forthright in acknowledging that you need to pony up 
another 200 for a wifi module, and 300 for radio, 

Had to dig a little deeper in the Zeus to find that out. I am puzzled why they 
don’t build wifi in, it is in my dashcam and that is tiny and cheap.

It looks to me that it IS built into the e7 Raymarine, can anyone clarify that?

On the pictures of the back of the Zeus 8 it has Simrad molded into the case, 
so I guess that is what it really is.

The reason I had not considered the Raymarine is that after going from a 
Garmin, which I consider very intuitive, the Ray was confounding, and poorly 
thought out, at least the RL-80.

They seem to be making much nicer stuff now, especially since Jeppeson  
acquired them.

JF, do you know if my Raymarine Autopilot will work seamlessly with the Zeus?  
It is 0183, the MKII around 10 years old.

And thanks to Fred for the Garmin offer.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 8:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

 

My response to Chuck got scrubbed again.. I need to stop trying to send from 
the phone... 

Here goes:  

The laylines are not necessarily set at any particular angle.. That's the 
genius of it. It analyzes how you are pointing / running relative to apparent 
wind speed, current, tides, direction, wind shifts, and boat speed then does 
the trigonometry for the layline angle that gives the optimal tack / jibe point 
to max-out your vmg to waypoint.

During that race I followed it precisely, gained 2 tacks over 5 miles.. 

Sent from IBM Notes Traveler

Chuck S --- Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters --- 


From:

"Chuck S" 


To:

"Jean-Francois J Rivard" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 



Date:

Sat, Jan 31, 2015 2:01 PM


Subject:

Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters

 

  _  


That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are they 
set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?

Chuck
Regards


  _  





François Rivard

 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw




Big Data Black Belt

 Atlanta, 30327-3015


IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales

 Usa


Mobile:

770-639-0429

 




e-mail:

jfriv...@us.ibm.com

  




 


 

 


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mark
Two concerns with that meter - it isn't likely sealed, and it does not 
mention how much current it draws while on.  The first you could address 
by buying a couple of them for spares, and I'd wire it up in line with a 
"momentary on" switch so you only have it powered when you press the 
switch, thus limiting the current draw.


I've got a pair of DMS-20PC-0-DCM-C 
 
meters, they draw 13 mA and are epoxy encapsulated, just a pair of screw 
terminals sticking out of the epoxy on the back.  But they also cost 10x 
the one you list...  They are 6 years old and working perfectly.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-02-02 2:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:

Josh,
Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be 
wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn).  
But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some 
track on drain.

Say something like
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO

I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this 
spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's 
instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house 
bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them 
interchangeably for starting and house.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana
On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. Discharging a flooded 
deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  
This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps 
for 1 houryou get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle 
below 50% will decrease its effective useful service life.  Many 
batteries publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One 
loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200 
charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases when the 
depth of discharge is reduced.


When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" 
voltage after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to 
remember a capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully 
charged battery will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read 
~11.7v.  By this convention one should avoid voltage readings below 
12.2v.  I have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to 
a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other 
battery.  I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no 
charging source before I start to worry.  The engine charges at 
100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up.


I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 
2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current 
boat but it has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is 
bad or somehow bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll 
get to it...


http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am
sure this list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet,
but plan to do more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure
of is how people monitor the state of their batteries when you
know shore power is not going to be available.  I have a digital
voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart
that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that
as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important
function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries
sit for a while if they have been charging to get an accurate
reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be off.  
For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the

refrigeration while sailing to the next destination? Can you get
a meter that gives you “hours of battery life remaining”?  What
strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List wanted: used chartplotter

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 08:27:27 -0500
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List State of the Battery
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I
have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a
chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a
rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My
understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they
have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current
draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to
run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a
meter that gives you ?hours of battery life remaining??  What strategies to
listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 08:43:03 -0500
From: Edd Schillay 
To: David Knecht ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List State of the Battery
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

David,

I have a Link 2000 battery monitor on the Enterprise. Highly recommend it. 

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Link2000-445-0198-98-
01_rev-1%28Vendor%29.pdf 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Feb 2, 2015, at 8:27 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
 wrote:

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I
have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a
chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a
rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My
understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they
have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current
draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to
run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a
meter that gives you ?hours of battery life remaining??  What strategies to
listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 10:19:43 -0500
From: Edd Schillay 

Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

Hello Rich, welcome to the Wet Coast. I'm in Sidney but happy to confuse you 
with any local advice you might need! Patrick Wesley, The Boat, 24.


On Feb 01, 2015, at 09:41 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi All!

I’ve been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the list. 
Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.

My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:

http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/

Willing to answer questions. 

Also:

A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an 
acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum 11’9” 
beam so she’s back on the market.

Don’t forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171


Back to sorting stuff:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Edd,
I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
 
Regards,
 
Bill
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
 
Listers,
 
    One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House 
switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
 
    I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
 
    I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
 
    12 weeks to launch! 
 

    All the best,
 
    Edd
 
 
    Edd M. Schillay
    Starship Enterprise
    C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
    City Island, NY 
    Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  

  BTW - MaineSail's site was posted with his discussion on battery
  monitoring from 2011
  his newer article (which is linked in that original one) suggests
  that a Balmar Smart Gauge us a better option.
  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/smart_gauge
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-02 2:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Josh,
Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense
to be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of
$360 cdn).  But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I
could maintain some track on drain.
Say something like 
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO

I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel
this spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per
MaineSail's instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting
bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B
bank - use them interchangeably for starting and house.

Mark

 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
  
  
What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. 
  Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs
  below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs
  of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the
  jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will
  decrease its effective useful service life.  Many batteries
  publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One
  loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200
  charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases
  when the depth of discharge is reduced.
When using a voltage meter, it is important to take
  a "no load" voltage after the battery has had time to
  "recover".  The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage
  conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery will read
  12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this
  convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I
  have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a
  "loaded" voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the
  other battery.  I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer
  with no charging source before I start to worry.  The engine
  charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me
  pretty well topped up.
I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is
  similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link
  2000 installed on my current boat but it has never worked
  right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed
  on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons,  MD

On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht
  via CnC-List" 

  wrote:
  
Looking at the wiring
  diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can
  answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do
  more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is
  how people monitor the state of their batteries when you
  know shore power is not going to be available.  I have a
  digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the
  batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent
  charge and I have used that as a rough guide, but that
  seems crude for such an important function.  My
  understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a
  while if they have been charging to get an accurate
  reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be
  off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run
  the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination? 
  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of battery life
  remaining”?  What strategies to listers

Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  
Josh,
  Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
  With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to
  be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360
  cdn).  But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could
  maintain some track on drain.
  Say something like 
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO
  
  I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this
  spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's
  instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house
  bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them
  interchangeably for starting and house.
  
  Mark
  
   
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


  What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. 
Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below
50% should be avoided.  This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use. 
5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the jist. 
Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its
effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the
number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating
convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200
charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases when
the depth of discharge is reduced.
  When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a
"no load" voltage after the battery has had time to "recover". 
The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage conversion is
0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery will read 12.7v and a
fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this convention one
should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total of
500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage
of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I
can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no charging
source before I start to worry.  The engine charges at 100amps
so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up.
  I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is
similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000
installed on my current boat but it has never worked right.  I
believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed on the
charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
  http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
  Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
  
  On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via
CnC-List" 
wrote:

  Looking at the wiring
diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can
answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do
more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how
people monitor the state of their batteries when you know
shore power is not going to be available.  I have a digital
voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a
chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have
used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an
important function.  My understanding is that you have let
the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging to
get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws
also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it
is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next
destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of
battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to
solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

  

  Aries
  1990
C&C 34+
  New
London, CT
  
  

  
  

  
  
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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Where I race, it is not a penalty to have a folder/featherer, the base
rating assumes that you have this.

A credit is granted from 3-12 seconds for a solid prop based on type of
prop and mounting.

Having raced with both a solid prop and a folder on the same boat, I can
tell you that the "penalty" is well worth it.

On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 1:37 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Wow! That is a serious penalty. It is three to six around here. Three if
> in an aperture and six if out in the open.
>
> Andthe Flex-o-fold is a geared prop so the blades open together and
> close together. I have not heard of any of them not opening, unless they
> have been sitting around so long that they are encrusted with
> junk/barnacles so bad that they wouldn't work even if they were fixed. I
> deliver boats for our museum's donation program and have run into a couple
> which were so dirty that the prop was just a blob of crud - no thrust.
> Didn't make a difference if it was folding (they weren't) or not.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* D.J. Platt via CnC-List 
> *To:* Alan Lombard  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Monday, February 02, 2015 10:35 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
>
> Towed in a few boats with props not opening from our club.  If you race
> the current penalty is 12 seconds per mile.  Don't care for them myself.
>
>  *From:* Alan Lombard via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
>
>  Hello Gary,
>
> I too have a C&C 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you
> remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the
> right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is  2-blade
> 15x11R.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> --
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Wow! That is a serious penalty. It is three to six around here. Three if in an 
aperture and six if out in the open.

Andthe Flex-o-fold is a geared prop so the blades open together and close 
together. I have not heard of any of them not opening, unless they have been 
sitting around so long that they are encrusted with junk/barnacles so bad that 
they wouldn't work even if they were fixed. I deliver boats for our museum's 
donation program and have run into a couple which were so dirty that the prop 
was just a blob of crud - no thrust. Didn't make a difference if it was folding 
(they weren't) or not.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: D.J. Platt via CnC-List 
  To: Alan Lombard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 10:35 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props


  Towed in a few boats with props not opening from our club.  If you race the 
current penalty is 12 seconds per mile.  Don't care for them myself.


  From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List 
  Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props


  Hello Gary,

  I too have a C&C 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you 
remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the 
right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is  2-blade 15x11R. 

  Thanks,

  Alan



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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Dave,
I just installed a battery monitor made by victron. Haven’t really played with 
it yet but it does all of the things you are asking about and is easier to 
install than the Link monitor. Good article here 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_monitor
James
“Delaney”
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC


From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 8:27 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List State of the Battery

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list 
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the 
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of 
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I have 
a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart 
that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough 
guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My understanding 
is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging 
to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be 
off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration 
while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you 
“hours of battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve 
this problem?  Thanks- Dave 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 




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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter.  Discharging a flooded deep
cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly
equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou
get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its
effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the number of
cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating convention is that a deep
cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number
increases when the depth of discharge is reduced.

When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" voltage
after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to remember a
capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery
will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this
convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total
of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v
I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I can go about 2 days
in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry.
The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me
pretty well topped up.

I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 2000
that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it
has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow
bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...

http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
 On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this
> list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in
> the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the
> state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be
> available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the
> batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I
> have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important
> function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a
> while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure
> if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if
> it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?
> Can you get a meter that gives you "hours of battery life remaining"?  What
> strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bill,

Wifi is built into the Ray for the Ray phone/tablet apps.  Not for a laptop.
I agree the old Ray stuff was not user-friendly, but the current stuff
really is!
Let us know what you select.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 12:07 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Lots of great info, thanks to all for their input.
>
> In reading the manuals many things become more clear.
>
> Garmin is a little more forthright in acknowledging that you need to pony
> up another 200 for a wifi module, and 300 for radio,
>
> Had to dig a little deeper in the Zeus to find that out. I am puzzled why
> they don’t build wifi in, it is in my dashcam and that is tiny and cheap.
>
> It looks to me that it IS built into the e7 Raymarine, can anyone clarify
> that?
>
> On the pictures of the back of the Zeus 8 it has Simrad molded into the
> case, so I guess that is what it really is.
>
> The reason I had not considered the Raymarine is that after going from a
> Garmin, which I consider very intuitive, the Ray was confounding, and
> poorly thought out, at least the RL-80.
>
> They seem to be making much nicer stuff now, especially since Jeppeson
> acquired them.
>
> JF, do you know if my Raymarine Autopilot will work seamlessly with the
> Zeus?  It is 0183, the MKII around 10 years old.
>
> And thanks to Fred for the Garmin offer.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Jean-Francois
> J Rivard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 31, 2015 8:01 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.
>
>
>
> My response to Chuck got scrubbed again.. I need to stop trying to send
> from the phone...
>
> Here goes:
>
> The laylines are not necessarily set at any particular angle.. That's the
> genius of it. It analyzes how you are pointing / running relative to
> apparent wind speed, current, tides, direction, wind shifts, and boat speed
> then does the trigonometry for the layline angle that gives the optimal
> tack / jibe point to max-out your vmg to waypoint.
>
> During that race I followed it precisely, gained 2 tacks over 5 miles..
>
> Sent from IBM Notes Traveler
>
> Chuck S --- Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters ---
>
> From:
>
> "Chuck S" 
>
> To:
>
> "Jean-Francois J Rivard" , "CNC boat owners,
> cnc-list" 
>
> Date:
>
> Sat, Jan 31, 2015 2:01 PM
>
> Subject:
>
> Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters
>
>
>  --
>
>
> That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are
> they set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?
>
> Chuck
> Regards
>   --
>
>*François Rivard*
>
>  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>
>Big Data Black Belt
>
>  Atlanta, 30327-3015
>
> IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
>
>  Usa
>
> Mobile:
>
> 770-639-0429
>
>
>
>e-mail:
>
> jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Lots of great info, thanks to all for their input.

In reading the manuals many things become more clear.

Garmin is a little more forthright in acknowledging that you need to pony up
another 200 for a wifi module, and 300 for radio, 

Had to dig a little deeper in the Zeus to find that out. I am puzzled why
they don’t build wifi in, it is in my dashcam and that is tiny and cheap.

It looks to me that it IS built into the e7 Raymarine, can anyone clarify
that?

On the pictures of the back of the Zeus 8 it has Simrad molded into the
case, so I guess that is what it really is.

The reason I had not considered the Raymarine is that after going from a
Garmin, which I consider very intuitive, the Ray was confounding, and poorly
thought out, at least the RL-80.

They seem to be making much nicer stuff now, especially since Jeppeson
acquired them.

JF, do you know if my Raymarine Autopilot will work seamlessly with the
Zeus?  It is 0183, the MKII around 10 years old.

And thanks to Fred for the Garmin offer.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 8:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

 

My response to Chuck got scrubbed again.. I need to stop trying to send from
the phone... 

Here goes:  

The laylines are not necessarily set at any particular angle.. That's the
genius of it. It analyzes how you are pointing / running relative to
apparent wind speed, current, tides, direction, wind shifts, and boat speed
then does the trigonometry for the layline angle that gives the optimal tack
/ jibe point to max-out your vmg to waypoint.

During that race I followed it precisely, gained 2 tacks over 5 miles.. 

Sent from IBM Notes Traveler

Chuck S --- Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters --- 


From:

"Chuck S" 


To:

"Jean-Francois J Rivard" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"



Date:

Sat, Jan 31, 2015 2:01 PM


Subject:

Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters

 

  _  


That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are
they set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?

Chuck
Regards


  _  





François Rivard

 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw




Big Data Black Belt

 Atlanta, 30327-3015


IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales

 Usa


Mobile:

770-639-0429

 




e-mail:

jfriv...@us.ibm.com

  




 


 

 

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Re: Stus-List Echo Charger (was Wiring Diagram)

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — the EchoCharge is a one-way device; it will only pass charge current from 
the House bank to the Start battery, not the other way around.  Best practice 
suggests sending ALL your charge sources to the larger House bank, then 
siphoning some of that off for the minimal charging requirements of the Start 
battery.  It really does work well.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 2, 2015, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Listers,
> 
>   So now I have another stupid question. 
> 
>   If the echo charger senses voltage over 13 and then transfers some of 
> that charge to the other battery, why bother taking the alternator output to 
> the house bank? If I leave the starter and alternator on the starting 
> battery, wouldn’t the charge then also go to the house bank when the engine 
> is running? (accessing the back of the alternator isn’t easy on a 37+)
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd

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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[D.J. Platt via CnC-List]

Towed in a few boats with props not opening from our club.  If you race the 
current penalty is 12 seconds per mile.  Don't care for them myself.


From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props


Hello Gary,

I too have a C&C 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you 
remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the 
right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is  2-blade 15x11R. 

Thanks,

Alan






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Re: Stus-List Echo Charger (was Wiring Diagram)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If you were using an ACR then there would be no good reason (that I can
see).  But an ACR doesn't have the ability to control charge current or
mixed chemistry batteries.

Josh
On Feb 2, 2015 10:19 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> So now I have another stupid question.
>
> If the echo charger senses voltage over 13 and then transfers some of that
> charge to the other battery, why bother taking the alternator output to the
> house bank? If I leave the starter and alternator on the starting battery,
> wouldn't the charge then also go to the house bank when the engine is
> running? (accessing the back of the alternator isn't easy on a 37+)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
> On Feb 2, 2015, at 12:41 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All!
>
> I've been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the
> list. Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.
>
> My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:
>
> http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/
>
> Willing to answer questions.
>
> Also:
>
> A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an
> acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum
> 11'9" beam so she's back on the market.
>
> Don't forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.
>
> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171
>
>
> Back to sorting stuff:)
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find
> the drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Edd,
>>
>> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
>> Schillay via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
>> *To:* 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Wiring Diagram
>>
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits.
>> Specifically, I'm looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a
>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank.
>>
>>
>>
>> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a
>> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in
>> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for
>> the starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.
>>
>>
>>
>> 12 weeks to launch!
>>
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Starship Enterprise
>>
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>
>> City Island, NY
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Echo Charger (was Wiring Diagram)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The echo has a max output current (IIRC 20A) and can be programmed for
lower currents and different chemistries.

The high output of the alternator would quickly exceed the safe charge rate
of the starting battery.  Flooded should charge at no greater than 25% of
capacity.  Gel ~30%.  AGM ~ 40%.

Josh
On Feb 2, 2015 10:19 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> So now I have another stupid question.
>
> If the echo charger senses voltage over 13 and then transfers some of that
> charge to the other battery, why bother taking the alternator output to the
> house bank? If I leave the starter and alternator on the starting battery,
> wouldn't the charge then also go to the house bank when the engine is
> running? (accessing the back of the alternator isn't easy on a 37+)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
> On Feb 2, 2015, at 12:41 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All!
>
> I've been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the
> list. Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.
>
> My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:
>
> http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/
>
> Willing to answer questions.
>
> Also:
>
> A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an
> acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum
> 11'9" beam so she's back on the market.
>
> Don't forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.
>
> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171
>
>
> Back to sorting stuff:)
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find
> the drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Edd,
>>
>> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
>> Schillay via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
>> *To:* 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Wiring Diagram
>>
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits.
>> Specifically, I'm looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a
>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank.
>>
>>
>>
>> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a
>> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in
>> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for
>> the starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.
>>
>>
>>
>> 12 weeks to launch!
>>
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Starship Enterprise
>>
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>
>> City Island, NY
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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http

Re: Stus-List Echo Charger (was Wiring Diagram)

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

So now I have another stupid question. 

If the echo charger senses voltage over 13 and then transfers some of 
that charge to the other battery, why bother taking the alternator output to 
the house bank? If I leave the starter and alternator on the starting battery, 
wouldn’t the charge then also go to the house bank when the engine is running? 
(accessing the back of the alternator isn’t easy on a 37+)


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
On Feb 2, 2015, at 12:41 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi All!

I’ve been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the list. 
Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.

My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:

http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ 


Willing to answer questions. 

Also:

A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an 
acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum 11’9” 
beam so she’s back on the market.

Don’t forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171 



Back to sorting stuff:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
> drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Edd,
> 
> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
>  
> 
> Bill
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
> 
>  
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
> 
>  
> 
> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> 12 weeks to launch! 
> 
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
>  
> 
> Edd
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> 
> Starship Enterprise
> 
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> 
> City Island, NY 
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

I have a Link 2000 battery monitor on the Enterprise. Highly recommend it. 

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Link2000-445-0198-98-01_rev-1%28Vendor%29.pdf
 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Feb 2, 2015, at 8:27 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list 
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the 
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of 
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I have 
a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart 
that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough 
guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My understanding 
is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging 
to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be 
off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration 
while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you 
“hours of battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve 
this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List State of the Battery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list 
can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the 
future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of 
their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I have 
a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart 
that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough 
guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My understanding 
is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging 
to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be 
off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration 
while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you 
“hours of battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve 
this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich

That is the marina where I sailed from 2001 thru June of last year.  Is a shame 
since the LF38 would be great in the Northumberland Strait.  John previously 
had a C&C35 III which he did have hauled and launched there for several seasons

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 1:41 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

Hi All!

I’ve been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the list. 
Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.

My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:

http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/

Willing to answer questions.

Also:

A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an 
acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum 11’9” 
beam so she’s back on the market.

Don’t forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171


Back to sorting stuff:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.

On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Edd,
I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.

Regards,

Bill

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

Listers,

One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House 
switch and use an echo charger for the house bank.

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.

I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.

12 weeks to launch!

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log


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