Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat
Airbnb is excellent. We occasionally host and travel using the site. There are amazing opportunities for unique experiences. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2079752?s=RhiO On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: wow! $70 a night for that boat? did you read the reviews? One of them is pretty funny! LOL -- Original Message -- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat Date: Thu, 28 May 2015 09:31:15 -0700 I think I read a news article couple weeks ago about a home that got trashed by an airbnb rental. Airbnb stood by the rentee and fixed their property but it was traumatic for the owners. Dennis C. On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:01 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Heard of AirBnB yet? Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015checkout=06%2F04%2F2015s=K66J - Paul E. 1981 CC 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat
wow! $70 a night for that boat? did you read the reviews? One of them is pretty funny! LOL -- Original Message -- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat Date: Thu, 28 May 2015 09:31:15 -0700 I think I read a news article couple weeks ago about a home that got trashed by an airbnb rental. Airbnb stood by the rentee and fixed their property but it was traumatic for the owners. Dennis C. On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:01 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Heard of AirBnB yet? Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015checkout=06%2F04%2F2015s=K66J - Paul E.1981 CC 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Yes mine is that way ZCC34+15K990. For the US decal I just ignored the + and it seems to be acceptable. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Pulaski via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 5:01 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Pulaski Subject: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+? Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one bit of weirdness: the HIN has a + symbol in it, which HIN decoders say is invalid. The HIN starts off ZCC34+ Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN looks like? Thanks! -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
If I remember correctly my set up (34+ 1990) has a Gardena 4 part manifold –I think they are makers of garden hose fittings. Looks like it is original. Might want to check for Gardena parts somewhere. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 6:45 AM To: CC List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List Tank selector manifold Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List *****SPAM***** Re: Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
We had a + on our 34+ hin. What is invalid today may have been fine in 1990. John Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: A quick search of the United States Coast Guard's Port State Information eXchange (PSIX) system reveals several (actually 27) CC 34+ with similar HIN (Hull Numbers). You can search here: http://cgmix.uscg.mil/PSIX/PSIXSearch.aspx The wild card symbol in a search on that site is the percent symbol % So do a search for ZCC34+% to see the results. Ken H. On 28 May 2015 at 09:01, David Pulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one bit of weirdness: the HIN has a + symbol in it, which HIN decoders say is invalid. The HIN starts off ZCC34+ Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN looks like? Thanks! -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Edson Pedestal
Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would appreciate a copy or a reference Thanks, posters. -Original Message- From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: 2015-05-28 6:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Bina billbinal...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat http://blog.sfgate.com/ontheblock/2015/05/15/airbnb-renters-refuse-to-leave-after-south-bay-landlord-allows-them-to-start-paying-cash/ On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago. I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!) sam :-) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal
Hi John, Not sure of your problem? I recently had to replace my idler plate on my 1990 34/36. I have pics and much advice on that process. Edson has an extensive website with technical support: TECHNICAL SUPPORT If you require technical support or information on an Edson products, please visit our tech support web page or contact Edson: By Email: i...@edsonintl.com By Phone: (508) 995-9711 Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: John Irvin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Irvin john.ir...@rogers.com Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:21:09 PM Subject: Stus-List Edson Pedestal Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would appreciate a copy or a reference Thanks, posters. From: Bill Bina via CnC-List Sent: 2015-05-28 6:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Bina Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat http://blog.sfgate.com/ontheblock/2015/05/15/airbnb-renters-refuse-to-leave-after-south-bay-landlord-allows-them-to-start-paying-cash/ On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago. I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!) sam :-) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
Rick, Yes I have those stanchion bases and I am trying to find the a leg that will also attach to the toe-rail directly or via an attachment fitting of some sort.. Maybe I am missing something by looking at those pictures at SS. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Wed, 27 May 2015 21:34:37 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net David, Base styles B C and D attach only through the toe rail. (style A is used on my friend’s 1983 29 mk2, and has one hole in the deck and uses two of the hull to deck through bolts.) Which base you need depends on what cross section of toe rail you have. I converted my 76 model 38 mk2 from the old style bases mounted to the deck to style B, which are the bases for my particular toe rail. No holes in the deck. Two bolts through the hull to deck joint and toe rail (one of them is an existing hull to deck bolt, but the other was a new hole that had to be drilled because the bolt hole spacing is slightly off.) The other bolt goes through the upright leg of the toe rail itself. As far as I can see, these bases make for a much stronger stanchion arrangement, eliminated the cracking of the deck gelcoat (which, I’m reminded, is another cosmetic repair I’ve not gotten to yet) and gained about 4” more width to the side decks. The stanchions with legs you see on the same page goes into two of these bases. Rick BrassImzadi CC 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:55 AM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... Thanks Bill, but I was looking for legs that terminate and secure at the toe-rail. Was trying to avoid more holes in the deck. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Wed, 27 May 2015 08:35:47 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: coltrek@verizon.netDave, Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears they do have them, http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/ Regards, Bill ColemanCC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... Tried them. Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck. Less holes and all that. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell)Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: joel.aronson@gmail.comSouth Shore Yachts in Toronto? On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:Anybody know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails? Thanks in advance. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made especially for plastic. Hope this helps. John Arpeggio CC 32 Norwalk, CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ Melody via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Russ Melody Subject: Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors Hi Tom, I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a sealing medium in compression fitting applications. In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote: New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a pressurize potable water system. It uses grey colored hoses and fittings throughout. All appear to be original except for those around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago. One (or possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have small leaks. Here's a picture - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority. Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks. The company is now out of business, of course. These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally without any silicon tape sealant. I can probably get a wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll break. Thus, turning a small problem into a big one. Now to my actual question... What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and drying process? Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what did you use? If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try? (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one) As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome! thx Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Yeah here's the thing - the transom had been re-gelcoated and the original HIN is no longer visible (the broker/yard is going to take care of it). I'm getting the # off the USCG doc, which looks OK and the hull# with the + in it shows on the USCG doc lookup website as well. It's a 1-owner boat and I don't have any reason at this point to think there is something fishy going on, but being a paranoid type I want to be sure everything is legit. -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Ken - thanks for that lookup tool. That makes me feel better. I really want this deal to go through. Just gotta have the yard affix a proper replacement HIN plate. Very excited about the boat. :) -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Why do you need the HIN plate? The vessel is documented right? That means the Doc number is permanently attached on an inside structure and is every bit as official a tiny engraved plate riveted to the hull. Josh On May 28, 2015 8:29 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken - thanks for that lookup tool. That makes me feel better. I really want this deal to go through. Just gotta have the yard affix a proper replacement HIN plate. Very excited about the boat. :) -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
This boat is also new enough that it has a second impront of the HIN somewhere hidden in the interior. MIne is visable when I lift the seat of the port settee, and it is stamped in the top edge surface of the fiberglass pan under the seat. I forget what year that second imprint became mandatory, but my boat is a 1986 and has it. Bill Bina On 5/28/2015 8:33 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Why do you need the HIN plate? The vessel is documented right? That means the Doc number is permanently attached on an inside structure and is every bit as official a tiny engraved plate riveted to the hull. Josh On May 28, 2015 8:29 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken - thanks for that lookup tool. That makes me feel better. I really want this deal to go through. Just gotta have the yard affix a proper replacement HIN plate. Very excited about the boat. :) -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale, can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked. Yeah, here you go: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569 Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made especially for plastic. Hope this helps. John Arpeggio CC 32 Norwalk, CT *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ Melody via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Russ Melody *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors Hi Tom, I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a sealing medium in compression fitting applications. In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote: New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a pressurize potable water system. It uses grey colored hoses and fittings throughout. All appear to be original except for those around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago. One (or possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have small leaks. Here's a picture - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority. Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks. The company is now out of business, of course. These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally without any silicon tape sealant. I can probably get a wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll break. Thus, turning a small problem into a big one. Now to my actual question... What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and drying process? Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what did you use? If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try? (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one) As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome! thx Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one bit of weirdness: the HIN has a + symbol in it, which HIN decoders say is invalid. The HIN starts off ZCC34+ Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN looks like? Thanks! -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
Do you get the HIN from the aft starboard hull corner? It would be a challenge to falsify a molded in HIN. Did you try to decode the HIN without the +? Josh Muckkey S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On May 28, 2015 8:01 AM, David Pulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one bit of weirdness: the HIN has a + symbol in it, which HIN decoders say is invalid. The HIN starts off ZCC34+ Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN looks like? Thanks! -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
Watts! Like this. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/quick-connect-union-3-8-in-cts/913103 Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale, can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked. Yeah, here you go: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569 Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made especially for plastic. Hope this helps. John Arpeggio CC 32 Norwalk, CT *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ Melody via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Russ Melody *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors Hi Tom, I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a sealing medium in compression fitting applications. In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote: New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a pressurize potable water system. It uses grey colored hoses and fittings throughout. All appear to be original except for those around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago. One (or possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have small leaks. Here's a picture - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority. Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks. The company is now out of business, of course. These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally without any silicon tape sealant. I can probably get a wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll break. Thus, turning a small problem into a big one. Now to my actual question... What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and drying process? Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what did you use? If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try? (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one) As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome! thx Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
BTW that grey pipe is 1/2 polybutylene and has a slightly smaller O.D. than PEX (polyethylene). You might get lucky using fittings designed for PEX but I have had some leak. A Google search will provide associated problems, law suits, and solutions. Josh On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a pressurize potable water system. It uses grey colored hoses and fittings throughout. All appear to be original except for those around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago. One (or possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have small leaks. Here's a picture - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority. Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks. The company is now out of business, of course. These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally without any silicon tape sealant. I can probably get a wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll break. Thus, turning a small problem into a big one. Now to my actual question... What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and drying process? Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what did you use? If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try? (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one) As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome! thx Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
I too was looking at Andy's setup. I don't already have a proper toping lift but a spinnaker halyard made to the jaw seems like it would work. How you attach it depends on your pole's end fitting. If no attachment fitting exists then a lashing of dynema might work well to create a semi-perminent eye. You want to avoid using the jaw so that you can still trip the sheet. Make the halyard and fore-guy first, set the pole hieght. Then use the jaw to make the sheet. Then make the mast. Josh On May 28, 2015 10:01 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Andy- I see that you are using a topping lift, and that would solve the problem. So far, I have not used one. I am guessing that you need to either attach to the clew, or use a topping lift and attach to the sheet? Topping lift means one more thing to mess with when setting up the pole. I have not tried attaching the topping lift and haven’t even looked at how that would be done with the Forespar whisker pole. I will play with that this weekend. Dave On May 28, 2015, at 9:50 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Here's how I do it even for just a coastal sail: http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/sailing-downwind-set-whisker-pole Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 5:42 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline. James “Delaney” CC 38 mk2 Oriental, nc *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16 AM *To:* CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. -- *From: *Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc: *Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com *Sent: *Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
Tom, replace the Qest fittings with more of the same and go sailing! Save your money and TIME for a different project IMO. Your boat is considerably newer than many on the list and you are bound to have more useful life in your Qest plumbing system. I just replaced my water heater as well and ordered new fittings from https://www.plumbingsupply.com/. One thing for sure I know I'll never see a return on when I sell the boat is replacing a currently functional plumbing system with similar. On Thu, May 28, 2015, 5:58 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Watts! Like this. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/quick-connect-union-3-8-in-cts/913103 Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale, can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked. Yeah, here you go: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569 Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made especially for plastic. Hope this helps. John Arpeggio CC 32 Norwalk, CT *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ Melody via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Russ Melody *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors Hi Tom, I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a sealing medium in compression fitting applications. In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote: New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a pressurize potable water system. It uses grey colored hoses and fittings throughout. All appear to be original except for those around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago. One (or possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have small leaks. Here's a picture - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority. Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks. The company is now out of business, of course. These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally without any silicon tape sealant. I can probably get a wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll break. Thus, turning a small problem into a big one. Now to my actual question... What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and drying process? Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what did you use? If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try? (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one) As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome! thx Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
Hi Andy- I see that you are using a topping lift, and that would solve the problem. So far, I have not used one. I am guessing that you need to either attach to the clew, or use a topping lift and attach to the sheet? Topping lift means one more thing to mess with when setting up the pole. I have not tried attaching the topping lift and haven’t even looked at how that would be done with the Forespar whisker pole. I will play with that this weekend. Dave On May 28, 2015, at 9:50 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Here's how I do it even for just a coastal sail: http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/sailing-downwind-set-whisker-pole http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/sailing-downwind-set-whisker-pole Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 5:42 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline. James “Delaney” CC 38 mk2 Oriental, nc From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16 AM To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
I made my own manifold using plastic pipe fittings and 3-way valves. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Potable water fittings.
Josh, The valve on our 37+ was made by Gardenia and its a 4-1 if that helps. (I converted the port side fresh water tank to a holding tank for the Great Lakes, we have lots of room with two holding tanks.) Tom, it hasn't been said yet, and you probably already know but there is a Quest compression fitting end that goes on the plastic pipe with a SS ring and you can tighten the nut down pretty tight! The nut squeaks all the way tight and will take quite a bit of abuse. The plumbing is not in the sunlight and will last decades. If I was going to change it up and had a pile of spare cash to burn, I would go Pex too. They can use a two wrench snug but not very often. RVs have been using it forever too. Len Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Sent from my mobile device.___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right now but I will be on it on Saturday... Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh On May 28, 2015 10:09 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I made my own manifold using plastic pipe fittings and 3-way valves. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Bob — sign me up, too. Maybe you could just post the pics on your blog, and we can all see them. I’m interested to see how things are plumbed on the newer LF38s; my 1979 (hull #9) still has most of the original plumbing, and it’s pretty primitive… Time for replacement. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 28, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right now but I will be on it on Saturday... Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/ There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
I don’t ever lift the pole either. It is attached “permanently” to the ring on the spinnaker pole track on the front of the mast and sits vertically on the mast when not in use. When I deploy, I just lift the bottom end out of the mast base, attach to the guy/ring, lower the track, then extend the pole. That part works great. But it has seemed to me that the sheet end dips low if I hook to the sheet rather than the ring. The sail supports it high when clipped to the ring. Maybe I did not let it come to equilibrium, but it would seem that in light winds, you would still get pole dipping when clipped to the sheet. As to genoa sheet attachment, I tried bowlines and soft shackles, but changed to spliced loops in the clew end with the sheet looping through the end to make a minimal, smooth attachment of sheet to clew. Anything else I have tried has more of a tendency to hang up on the baby stay or shrouds during tacks. Sailing short handed, I try to minimize that problem. Dave On May 27, 2015, at 5:49 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I think it is better that the pole never clip into the clew ring of the sail. It should capture the active sheet only. Some skippers tie their bowlines bigger and clip into that, but I converted to using a soft shackle through the genoa clew that captures the luggage tag ends of the sheets, so not much loop to clip into. I clip onto the sheet itself, and use the pole lift to take the weight of the pole off the sail. Works well. I keep the jaws up, so releasing allows the sail to fly up and out of the jaws. Francois developed a smart method that he described previously that allows him to set the thing without ever lifting the whole weight of the pole. Maybe he'll respond? Chuck From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16:46 AM Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
I’ve used fitting from McMaster-Carr that work with the grey tubing. See http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/173/=xdl4jn for polypropylene ½” tube to ½”pipe thread and ½” tubing connectors. It seals perfectly as I can leave the boat for several days and still have water pressure from the accumulator. Regards, Ron Ronald V. Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
Here's how I do it even for just a coastal sail: http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/sailing-downwind-set-whisker-pole Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 5:42 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline. James “Delaney” CC 38 mk2 Oriental, nc *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16 AM *To:* CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. -- *From: *Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc: *Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com *Sent: *Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
Using the topping lift makes the pole much easier to handle; it's like having another set of hands. The topping lift makes the whole process much easier from start to finish. I'm not sure it's clear in the article, but the pole is attached to the sheet. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:01 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Andy- I see that you are using a topping lift, and that would solve the problem. So far, I have not used one. I am guessing that you need to either attach to the clew, or use a topping lift and attach to the sheet? Topping lift means one more thing to mess with when setting up the pole. I have not tried attaching the topping lift and haven’t even looked at how that would be done with the Forespar whisker pole. I will play with that this weekend. Dave On May 28, 2015, at 9:50 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Here's how I do it even for just a coastal sail: http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/sailing-downwind-set-whisker-pole Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 5:42 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline. James “Delaney” CC 38 mk2 Oriental, nc *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16 AM *To:* CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. -- *From: *Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc: *Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com *Sent: *Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh On May 28, 2015 10:09 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I made my own manifold using plastic pipe fittings and 3-way valves. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa
Hi guys, Sorry for the belated reply, we were out racin' last nite (Regular Wed nite stuff) Super light winds again. Came in 1st in class on the water, will be 2nd on phrf my PB on the less than 5 knots winds. Anyhow, at my rigger's recommendation we use a small loop at the clew. We tried attaching to the sheet itself but didn't care for the sliding around of the pole when the sheet got looser. As for the handling, it's simple. As most you saw on the prior post my pole is deck mounted. The procedure for launch is simple: If the pole is stowed: 1) Move the fore side to the pulpit mounted U-Bolt / move the aft side to the mast car. To set: 1) Furl the genoa 2) move the fore side of the pole from the pulpit mount to the loop on the clew 3) Pull the windward sheet / release the furling line. The fact that the pole is always mounted at one end insures that you always carry half (or less) of the weight. In bumpy water / heavier winds I use my 2:1 foreguy line to keep things in check. The furling / un-furling seems like it would slow you down put it doesn't. It takes a few seconds either way and guarantees a flawless / drama free deployment every time no matter how hard it's blowing. Here's Forespar / John Kretschmer's video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGwNsS27R14 Best Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Whisker pole topping lift
We tried using the topping lift and found it was un-necessary using the aforementioned technique and it was just one more line to get tangled-up ( It did :-) ) . Also, we make sure that the cleat on the pole is pointing down / jaws pointing up. This way it's easier to release the clew end / the sheets don't get hung-up in the cleat when tacking while the pole is mounted on the mast. Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Fred: That's a good idea--I will make a blogpost on the manifold system. I have to rip out a leaking water tank anyway and I should be able to get some good pics but it will have to wait until I am back in the water (about a week from now)... Bob On May 28, 2015, at 10:34 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Bob — sign me up, too. Maybe you could just post the pics on your blog, and we can all see them. I’m interested to see how things are plumbed on the newer LF38s; my 1979 (hull #9) still has most of the original plumbing, and it’s pretty primitive… Time for replacement. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 28, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right now but I will be on it on Saturday... Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230) email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat
I think I read a news article couple weeks ago about a home that got trashed by an airbnb rental. Airbnb stood by the rentee and fixed their property but it was traumatic for the owners. Dennis C. On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:01 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Heard of AirBnB yet? Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015checkout=06%2F04%2F2015s=K66J - Paul E. 1981 CC 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?
A quick search of the United States Coast Guard's Port State Information eXchange (PSIX) system reveals several (actually 27) CC 34+ with similar HIN (Hull Numbers). You can search here: http://cgmix.uscg.mil/PSIX/PSIXSearch.aspx The wild card symbol in a search on that site is the percent symbol % So do a search for ZCC34+% to see the results. Ken H. On 28 May 2015 at 09:01, David Pulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one bit of weirdness: the HIN has a + symbol in it, which HIN decoders say is invalid. The HIN starts off ZCC34+ Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN looks like? Thanks! -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Potable water fittings.
Thanks Len and Kevin, I looked at their website and it looks like they redesigned the 4 to 1 manifold a little. It also looks like the fittings are still garden hose fittings. Maybe the Gilmore I have just needs to have adapters. Josh On May 28, 2015 10:28 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh, The valve on our 37+ was made by Gardenia and its a 4-1 if that helps. (I converted the port side fresh water tank to a holding tank for the Great Lakes, we have lots of room with two holding tanks.) Tom, it hasn't been said yet, and you probably already know but there is a Quest compression fitting end that goes on the plastic pipe with a SS ring and you can tighten the nut down pretty tight! The nut squeaks all the way tight and will take quite a bit of abuse. The plumbing is not in the sunlight and will last decades. If I was going to change it up and had a pile of spare cash to burn, I would go Pex too. They can use a two wrench snug but not very often. RVs have been using it forever too. Len Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Sent from my mobile device. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Fred: My newer LF38 is 32 years old and most of the original plumbing has been replaced! Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:58 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Fred: That's a good idea--I will make a blogpost on the manifold system. I have to rip out a leaking water tank anyway and I should be able to get some good pics but it will have to wait until I am back in the water (about a week from now)... Bob On May 28, 2015, at 10:34 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Bob — sign me up, too. Maybe you could just post the pics on your blog, and we can all see them. I’m interested to see how things are plumbed on the newer LF38s; my 1979 (hull #9) still has most of the original plumbing, and it’s pretty primitive… Time for replacement. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 28, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right now but I will be on it on Saturday... Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230) email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank selector manifold
If I recall correctly, each tank on my LF38 had its own plastic valve and the lines were merely tied together in a plastic 4-way tee fitting just aft of the mast. The fourth line form the tee was led to the pump inlet. Of course all the original piping was grey and there were leaks in many places--that's why I replaced it all. Bob On May 28, 2015, at 11:39 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote: Fred: My newer LF38 is 32 years old and most of the original plumbing has been replaced! Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:58 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Fred: That's a good idea--I will make a blogpost on the manifold system. I have to rip out a leaking water tank anyway and I should be able to get some good pics but it will have to wait until I am back in the water (about a week from now)... Bob On May 28, 2015, at 10:34 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Bob — sign me up, too. Maybe you could just post the pics on your blog, and we can all see them. I’m interested to see how things are plumbed on the newer LF38s; my 1979 (hull #9) still has most of the original plumbing, and it’s pretty primitive… Time for replacement. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 28, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right now but I will be on it on Saturday... Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Bob, Any chance you could send pictures? Thanks, Josh ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230) email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230) email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Tank selector manifold
Josh I'm not sure if what I got was Gilmore, but I had to replace one and used a garden 4 to 1 from the hardware store after combing the marine supply sources. The mating problem with the hose threads was solved with a set of brass fitting from the hardware store with female std hose threads on one end and NST male on the other which was a perfect match on both ends. It was also just the right size to fit. That 4 to 1 is the only $10 part on the boat! Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 On May 28, 2015, at 7:34 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: On May 28, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hey folks, I'm looking for a tank selector manifold for at least 3 freshwater tanks. The PO must have been looking for one too because he chose to use a Gilmore garden hose spliter (1 to 4). Unfortunately the copious amounts of teflon tape he used to stop leaks from the hose thread to NST of the qest fittings has stopped working. It looks like according to the owners manual the boat came with a one piece valve manifold. I'm ok with assembling something else though. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Potable water fittings.
I have the same Gardenia 4 way manifold with the same labels on my 89 30-2. Must have come from the factory that way? On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:28 AM Mitchell's via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh, The valve on our 37+ was made by Gardenia and its a 4-1 if that helps. (I converted the port side fresh water tank to a holding tank for the Great Lakes, we have lots of room with two holding tanks.) Tom, it hasn't been said yet, and you probably already know but there is a Quest compression fitting end that goes on the plastic pipe with a SS ring and you can tighten the nut down pretty tight! The nut squeaks all the way tight and will take quite a bit of abuse. The plumbing is not in the sunlight and will last decades. If I was going to change it up and had a pile of spare cash to burn, I would go Pex too. They can use a two wrench snug but not very often. RVs have been using it forever too. Len Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Sent from my mobile device.___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on CC 30
I think the initial tuning of about 8 of rake, usually done by hanging a weight on the main halyard, is a reference assuming the boat is sitting level in the water. At least a few of the CC 30-1 I have looked at are stern heavy, some by a couple of inches. I suspect that will add some to the rake that would not be there if the boot strip and water surface were parallel. Under sail with crew on board the boat may sit properly. Given that people have reported noticing a change in weather helm from even a modest adjustment of rake the error in initial tuning by having the stern 2 low might be significant. A couple of weeks ago while out for practice starts we flew a heavy wind #1 ( a flatter cut ) and full main. Winds were 18 - 22 kts, gusts to 30. It was the wrong amount of sail to have up but the helm was fine. Eased the vang a bit and left some twist in the main, kept the #1 flat. With the boat level I have about 6 of rake. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on CC 30
Seems to me that if the boat normally sails stern-low, it moves the center of effort aft and has the same effect as raking the mast on a level boat... On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I think the initial tuning of about 8 of rake, usually done by hanging a weight on the main halyard, is a reference assuming the boat is sitting level in the water. At least a few of the CC 30-1 I have looked at are stern heavy, some by a couple of inches. I suspect that will add some to the rake that would not be there if the boot strip and water surface were parallel. Under sail with crew on board the boat may sit properly. Given that people have reported noticing a change in weather helm from even a modest adjustment of rake the error in initial tuning by having the stern 2 low might be significant. A couple of weeks ago while out for practice starts we flew a heavy wind #1 ( a flatter cut ) and full main. Winds were 18 - 22 kts, gusts to 30. It was the wrong amount of sail to have up but the helm was fine. Eased the vang a bit and left some twist in the main, kept the #1 flat. With the boat level I have about 6 of rake. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
