Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had a really nice aluminum box made for my catamaran trailer to hold
sails, PFDs, etc.  Had it made at an industrial sheet metal shop.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 9:07 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a hinge break on my forward Hatch and found a guy at an awning shop
> who welded it (aluminum) back together for me...
>
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

I had a hinge break on my forward Hatch and found a guy at an awning shop who 
welded it (aluminum) back together for me...
 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; 

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Alex Wolfe via CnC-List 
To: Edd Schillay 
Cc: Alex Wolfe ; cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Jan 19, 2016 7:27 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model



Hi Edd,
Thanks for the response. I have enjoyed your many good posts. I started with 
hatchmasters but then got deeply into a diy job. It is just one damn hinge that 
is standing in my way. Maybe someone else has an idea that does not involve 
sending in the hatch, waiting months, and paying more than a new hatch? Let's 
see. But thanks.


Alex

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 19, 2016, at 2:27 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:



Alex,


Suggest you contact Hatchmasters in Norwalk, CT (http://www.hatchmasters.com) 
They’ve done some amazing things with lenses and hardware. You’ll probably have 
to ship your hatch to them. 




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

















On Jan 19, 2016, at 2:09 PM, Alex Wolfe via CnC-List  
wrote:



Hi amigos,


Greeting from sunny Florida.  I won't say any more about it, I promise.  


I am repairing my leaky hatch despite recommendations to replace it with a new 
unit.  One of the problems is that one of the hinges is broken off at the tip, 
missing a portion up to the first of two screw holes.  Does anyone know where I 
can find one of these babies? I was going to have it fabricated but the guy 
here in Miami wants 250 for it.  It is a rather complex design.


The hatch is no longer made, as you know.


Replacing it with an entirely new unit, besides being a design faux pas, has 
let me to the problem of the cut out size not being quite right (mine is a 1/4" 
smaller in most cases) and the natch frames not being flush to the deck.  The 
ones I have found have a lip, which the original does not have.


Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.



Alex Wolfe
Shaka, C&C 24
Coconut Grove Sailing Club

 

Alex Wolfe

(917) 863-9918

www.alexwolfe.tv



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Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

You can get lipless hatches, so fit isn't quite so important. Lewmar makes
a line of them. http://www.lewmar.com/node/11278

I replaced all our A&H hatches with Lewmar Ocean series. Very happy with
them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[Mike Amirault via CnC-List]

Mike, I did this job last year on my C&C33ii (2GM20F) and, as others have 
suggested, take off the 4 bolts from the manifold. If you try to separate the 
mixing elbow from the adjoining piece in place, you are liable to break 
something and I don’t think you will be able to get enough leverage anyway. 
Take the two pieces to a large vise and you should be able to get them apart 
with a big monkey wrench. Use high temp sealer like permatex hi-temp on the 
threads. You should also replace the gasket on the manifold; it’s only a few 
bucks. As for the exhaust hose, it came off easily enough, but I found the 
inner liner was collapsed so I replaced it as well.
Best of luck.

Mike Amirault
C&C33mkii “Lovely Cruise”
SMSC  St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Alex Wolfe via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,
Thanks for the response. I have enjoyed your many good posts. I started with 
hatchmasters but then got deeply into a diy job. It is just one damn hinge that 
is standing in my way. Maybe someone else has an idea that does not involve 
sending in the hatch, waiting months, and paying more than a new hatch? Let's 
see. But thanks.

Alex

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 19, 2016, at 2:27 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Alex,
> 
> Suggest you contact Hatchmasters in Norwalk, CT (http://www.hatchmasters.com) 
> They’ve done some amazing things with lenses and hardware. You’ll probably 
> have to ship your hatch to them. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 19, 2016, at 2:09 PM, Alex Wolfe via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi amigos,
>> 
>> Greeting from sunny Florida.  I won't say any more about it, I promise.  
>> 
>> I am repairing my leaky hatch despite recommendations to replace it with a 
>> new unit.  One of the problems is that one of the hinges is broken off at 
>> the tip, missing a portion up to the first of two screw holes.  Does anyone 
>> know where I can find one of these babies? I was going to have it fabricated 
>> but the guy here in Miami wants 250 for it.  It is a rather complex design.
>> 
>> The hatch is no longer made, as you know.
>> 
>> Replacing it with an entirely new unit, besides being a design faux pas, has 
>> let me to the problem of the cut out size not being quite right (mine is a 
>> 1/4" smaller in most cases) and the natch frames not being flush to the 
>> deck.  The ones I have found have a lip, which the original does not have.
>> 
>> Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
>> 
>> Alex Wolfe
>> Shaka, C&C 24
>> Coconut Grove Sailing Club
>>  
>> Alex Wolfe
>> (917) 863-9918
>> www.alexwolfe.tv
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:

I have virtually the same engine and did this job 2 years ago.  If you 
were doing it on a work bench, it would be easy but where it is makes it 
a challenge.


First, the hose from the mixing elbow to the muffler..cut it and get 
a new one.don't bother trying to take it off and reuse it.


You can't unscrew the mixing elbow from the exhaust flange so unscrew 
the 4 bolts out from the exhaust flange that connects to the take the 
manifold..so you will be taking off both the mixing elbow and 
exhaust flange together.   Both pieces can then be taken to a workbench 
with a big vice to unscrew the mixing elbow from the exhaust flange.


New mixing elbow is fixed to the exhaust flange.I used some kind of 
thread lube, don't remember brand.   Here is an important tip. If you 
get 4 new bolts to put the exhaust flange back against the manifold, get 
2 or 3 extra (I got 6 new bolts)..I cut the head off of 2 and cut a 
groove in the top(s) with a hacksaw.just deep enough for a flat head 
screwdriver to bite into.


Use the 2 'blanks' as I call them when putting the flange/elbow back 
on..screw the blanks in the top corners and/or diagonal and then 
slide the flange/elbow onto the blanks.they will hold the whole 
assembly in place as you screw in the other 2 bolts in..when that's 
done, unscrew the 2 blanks and put the other 2 bolts on.


I used a heat resistant gasket called Ultra Copper between the mixing 
elbow and exhaust flange, bought a small tube at Canadian Tire for 
$8..you squeeze it out.applied to both the manifold and the 
exhaust flange.


Connected the hoses.job done.

While I was doing it, I replaced the SS muffler with a resin Vernalift 
and the exhaust hose from the muffler back to the transom.  Hope I never 
have to do it againcorrectionI will never do it again.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2016-01-19 3:55 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List wrote:

While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my 
Yammar 2GM20F.  I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it looks 
like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in place. Any tips 
for removing it?

Also, when I go to install the new one (which I already have on hand), do I 
need to put anything on the threads?

Thanks,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brian,

 

Try this link.

 

http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/0

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: January-19-16 12:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Oil Cooler

 

Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.

I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E. 

 

I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into the 
inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through the 
cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that flows back 
to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the Raw water/Fresh 
water heat exchanger.

 

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11439 - Release Date: 01/19/16

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Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Take the whole thing off at the block.  4 bolts.  Then you can use a big
wrench and a vice to get the pieces apart.  You may want to replace the
part that attaches to the engine too.  A light coating of high temperature
anti-seize will help get the pieces together tight enough to prevent
leakage.

This comment is based on the assumption that you have the case iron style
elbow.  2 pieces connected by a very short nipple.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 19, 2016 2:56 PM, "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my
> Yammar 2GM20F.  I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it
> looks like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in
> place. Any tips for removing it?
>
> Also, when I go to install the new one (which I already have on hand), do
> I need to put anything on the threads?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> Atacama 33mkii
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Take the hinge off and have a weld shop build up the missing aluminum, then 
cut/grind/sand to original shape, and drill new holes.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Wolfe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 2:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Wolfe
Subject: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

 

Hi amigos,

 

Greeting from sunny Florida.  I won't say any more about it, I promise.  

 

I am repairing my leaky hatch despite recommendations to replace it with a new 
unit.  One of the problems is that one of the hinges is broken off at the tip, 
missing a portion up to the first of two screw holes.  Does anyone know where I 
can find one of these babies? I was going to have it fabricated but the guy 
here in Miami wants 250 for it.  It is a rather complex design.

 

The hatch is no longer made, as you know.

 

Replacing it with an entirely new unit, besides being a design faux pas, has 
let me to the problem of the cut out size not being quite right (mine is a 1/4" 
smaller in most cases) and the natch frames not being flush to the deck.  The 
ones I have found have a lip, which the original does not have.

 

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

 

Alex Wolfe

Shaka, C&C 24

Coconut Grove Sailing Club

 

Alex Wolfe



(917) 863-9918



www.alexwolfe.tv  

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Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my 
Yammar 2GM20F.  I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it looks 
like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in place. Any tips 
for removing it? 

Also, when I go to install the new one (which I already have on hand), do I 
need to put anything on the threads?

Thanks,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Alex,

Suggest you contact Hatchmasters in Norwalk, CT (http://www.hatchmasters.com 
) They’ve done some amazing things with lenses 
and hardware. You’ll probably have to ship your hatch to them. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










> On Jan 19, 2016, at 2:09 PM, Alex Wolfe via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi amigos,
> 
> Greeting from sunny Florida.  I won't say any more about it, I promise.  
> 
> I am repairing my leaky hatch despite recommendations to replace it with a 
> new unit.  One of the problems is that one of the hinges is broken off at the 
> tip, missing a portion up to the first of two screw holes.  Does anyone know 
> where I can find one of these babies? I was going to have it fabricated but 
> the guy here in Miami wants 250 for it.  It is a rather complex design.
> 
> The hatch is no longer made, as you know.
> 
> Replacing it with an entirely new unit, besides being a design faux pas, has 
> let me to the problem of the cut out size not being quite right (mine is a 
> 1/4" smaller in most cases) and the natch frames not being flush to the deck. 
>  The ones I have found have a lip, which the original does not have.
> 
> Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
> 
> Alex Wolfe
> Shaka, C&C 24
> Coconut Grove Sailing Club
>  
> Alex Wolfe
> (917) 863-9918
> www.alexwolfe.tv 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Stus-List Looking for Hatch Hinge for A&H C&C 24 '77 model

[Alex Wolfe via CnC-List]

Hi amigos,
Greeting from sunny Florida.  I won't say any more about it, I promise.  
I am repairing my leaky hatch despite recommendations to replace it with a new 
unit.  One of the problems is that one of the hinges is broken off at the tip, 
missing a portion up to the first of two screw holes.  Does anyone know where I 
can find one of these babies? I was going to have it fabricated but the guy 
here in Miami wants 250 for it.  It is a rather complex design.
The hatch is no longer made, as you know.
Replacing it with an entirely new unit, besides being a design faux pas, has 
let me to the problem of the cut out size not being quite right (mine is a 1/4" 
smaller in most cases) and the natch frames not being flush to the deck.  The 
ones I have found have a lip, which the original does not have.
Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Alex WolfeShaka, C&C 24Coconut Grove Sailing Club Alex Wolfe
(917) 863-9918
www.alexwolfe.tv

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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Good, I guess the PO must have replaced the engine.  I  searched for
pictures of a 3JH2 and agree that the two look drastically different.

Good luck,

Josh
On Jan 19, 2016 11:11 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.
> I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E.
>
> I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into
> the inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through
> the cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that
> flows back to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the
> Raw water/Fresh water heat exchanger.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.
I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E.

I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into the
inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through the
cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that flows
back to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the Raw
water/Fresh water heat exchanger.
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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=Y00R4260-12&model=3JH2E&manufacturer=Yanmar&title=LUB.OIL%20COOLER&quant_position=0&catalog=Y00R4260&printparts=&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 11:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Oil Cooler

Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.
I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E.

I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into the 
inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through the 
cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that flows back 
to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the Raw water/Fresh 
water heat exchanger.


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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You can have:
Heat exchanger – fresh/antifreeze to raw water.
Heat exchanger – oil: oil to raw water (oil cooler).
Heat exchanger – transmission: transmission oil to raw water (transmission 
cooler)
You need to trace the plumbing to see which is which, but the fresh to raw 
water cooler is going to be the biggest one and connected to an overflow bottle.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 08:18
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler


I added pictures of my engine to the link I already provided.

Josh
On Jan 19, 2016 7:20 AM, "Josh Muckley" 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Is the engine original?  It seems that the early production 37+ (37XL) were 
built with Yanmar 3HM35F engines.  The later ones were built with Universal M35 
(IIRC).

The model and serial should be on the front of the engine (pulley side), just 
below the high pressure fuel pump.

I'll send pictures of mine so you can compare.  Start with this link to the 
parts and owners manual to see if anything looks right.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yTkdrWTZVX3hRM28/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 19, 2016 6:49 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
It is a one pass cooler, cooled by seawater. It is on the aft of the engine.
Interestingly the ones in the manuals I have been able to find look like they 
are 2 pass coolers. By this I mean there are 2 separate coolers, one is mounted 
horizontally, then there is an elbow which is just less than 180 degrees radius 
which connects to the second pass cooler.
Mine only has the horizontal cooler, and a Hose where the second cooler would 
be.
This is a 3JH2 engine, non-turbo. At least that is what is listed on the 
survey, and the manual in the desk. Is there a nameplate somewhere on the 
engine that gives the Model number? I have only found a serial number.
I am having difficulty finding parts lists  for this engine. I have found a 
website or 2 that list parts, but they have no pictures so it is hard for me to 
tell if the parts are correct.

Brian Fry
C&C 37/40 XL
La Neige
HdG Maryland

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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I added pictures of my engine to the link I already provided.

Josh
On Jan 19, 2016 7:20 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> Is the engine original?  It seems that the early production 37+ (37XL)
> were built with Yanmar 3HM35F engines.  The later ones were built with
> Universal M35 (IIRC).
>
> The model and serial should be on the front of the engine (pulley side),
> just below the high pressure fuel pump.
>
> I'll send pictures of mine so you can compare.  Start with this link to
> the parts and owners manual to see if anything looks right.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yTkdrWTZVX3hRM28/edit
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 19, 2016 6:49 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> It is a one pass cooler, cooled by seawater. It is on the aft of the
>> engine.
>> Interestingly the ones in the manuals I have been able to find look like
>> they are 2 pass coolers. By this I mean there are 2 separate coolers, one
>> is mounted horizontally, then there is an elbow which is just less than 180
>> degrees radius which connects to the second pass cooler.
>> Mine only has the horizontal cooler, and a Hose where the second cooler
>> would be.
>> This is a 3JH2 engine, non-turbo. At least that is what is listed on the
>> survey, and the manual in the desk. Is there a nameplate somewhere on the
>> engine that gives the Model number? I have only found a serial number.
>> I am having difficulty finding parts lists  for this engine. I have found
>> a website or 2 that list parts, but they have no pictures so it is hard for
>> me to tell if the parts are correct.
>>
>> Brian Fry
>> C&C 37/40 XL
>> La Neige
>> HdG Maryland
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Is the engine original?  It seems that the early production 37+ (37XL) were
built with Yanmar 3HM35F engines.  The later ones were built with Universal
M35 (IIRC).

The model and serial should be on the front of the engine (pulley side),
just below the high pressure fuel pump.

I'll send pictures of mine so you can compare.  Start with this link to the
parts and owners manual to see if anything looks right.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yTkdrWTZVX3hRM28/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 19, 2016 6:49 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> It is a one pass cooler, cooled by seawater. It is on the aft of the
> engine.
> Interestingly the ones in the manuals I have been able to find look like
> they are 2 pass coolers. By this I mean there are 2 separate coolers, one
> is mounted horizontally, then there is an elbow which is just less than 180
> degrees radius which connects to the second pass cooler.
> Mine only has the horizontal cooler, and a Hose where the second cooler
> would be.
> This is a 3JH2 engine, non-turbo. At least that is what is listed on the
> survey, and the manual in the desk. Is there a nameplate somewhere on the
> engine that gives the Model number? I have only found a serial number.
> I am having difficulty finding parts lists  for this engine. I have found
> a website or 2 that list parts, but they have no pictures so it is hard for
> me to tell if the parts are correct.
>
> Brian Fry
> C&C 37/40 XL
> La Neige
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It is a one pass cooler, cooled by seawater. It is on the aft of the engine.
Interestingly the ones in the manuals I have been able to find look like
they are 2 pass coolers. By this I mean there are 2 separate coolers, one
is mounted horizontally, then there is an elbow which is just less than 180
degrees radius which connects to the second pass cooler.
Mine only has the horizontal cooler, and a Hose where the second cooler
would be.
This is a 3JH2 engine, non-turbo. At least that is what is listed on the
survey, and the manual in the desk. Is there a nameplate somewhere on the
engine that gives the Model number? I have only found a serial number.
I am having difficulty finding parts lists  for this engine. I have found a
website or 2 that list parts, but they have no pictures so it is hard for
me to tell if the parts are correct.

Brian Fry
C&C 37/40 XL
La Neige
HdG Maryland
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