Stus-List Boom vanging... Rigid vs Boomkicker

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I think that on larger boats the rigid vangs are preferred but on the smaller 
boats perhaps the Boomkicker is a better option.  Our 33 has an original 
equipment rigid vang (1987) that I think is Harken.  Works well after many 
years and we have no complaints.  On our J27 we added a US Spars rigid vang 
rather than a boomkicker.  Most J27 opt for the boomkicker in addition to rope 
vang.  I was not all that happy with the US Spars rigid vang on the 27 and the 
other 27 owners all liked their boom kickers.

Those are only my opinions based on personal observations

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 6:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...


Gee, Chuck

I guess there are a few folks on the list that like Garhauer vangs.  :).  I put 
one on Touche' in 1999.  Still looks good and works great.  Highly recommend 
one.

I've installed a few Garhauer vangs on other boats and have always had good 
experiences with their support.

I installed a Boomkicker on a J30 several months ago and have a positive 
opinion of that product also.

If it helps your decision, I have sold several rope vangs on eBay. Price ranges 
from about $45 to $90  depending on size and condition.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Jan 28, 2016 10:48 AM, "Chuck Saur via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to 
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is 
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I have 
as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't want 
hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other 
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.

There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but 
appear the same.  Thoughts?




Chuck Saur
Morning Sky
C 35-3
Hessel Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Plus 2 for Garhauer. I have a Garhauer vang on each of my boats. One is over
20 years old, the other 13. Strong. Custom fit to the boat. And really great
customer service from Guido and Mark. You won't find a better value or
anything that works better. I commend your decision to do away with the
"Damned thang", which I always found to be a general PITA .

 

Neil,

 

You are correct that the Boomkicker is less expensive. The K1500 that Chuck
would need would be around $300. The Garhauer just under $500. He would
still need his soft vang. Installation could be pretty straightforward,
unless the existing mast and boom tangs for the soft vang interfere with the
mounting of the hardware for the Boomkicker.

 

That said, my reservation about the Boomkicker is that I have seen, on 5 or
6 occasions over the years, the top of the Boomkicker rod come unpinned from
its mounting. When that happens, the boom ends up in the cockpit when you
drop the sails. That's probably a result of inattention or poor maintenance
on the part of the boat owner, I admit, and certainly the owner of a classic
C will pay better attention to his boat than the average owner. But still.

 

Peter,

 

I agree with Bill's suggestion that you contact Garhauer for new springs if
you think your vang has too much lift in it - though I suspect the weight of
a boom and sails for a 30-1 isn't all that much heavier than those on a 27.
I suspect you will find it is pretty inexpensive and relatively easy to make
the change.

 

A few years ago I had to put a new mast on my 25 (long story about an
inattentive skipper). When I called Garhauer about the installation of the
vang on the new mast, Guido asked me what model vang I had and what profile
Kenyon mast I was installing. He sent me a lower mounting bracket for the
new mast and the cost was less than $50. I mentioned that I had some slop in
the upper mounting , where the tang on the boom was mounted into the top of
the rigid vang, that was probably due to the fact that I had the original
roller furling boom on the boat. He sent me a new set of spacers to correct
the problem at no charge. As I said, great customer service.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

 

If all you want to do is get rid of the topping lift, you might consider
just adding a Boomkicker, which only keeps the boom from falling down.  Then
you could keep your manual vang, would cost quite a bit less.  I'm happy
with that arrangement, though I always put my main halyard on the end of the
boom once the main is down in case someone decides to swing on the boom or
something like that.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 1/28/2016 12:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:

Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I
have as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't
want hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.

 

There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but
appear the same.  Thoughts?

 

 

 




Chuck Saur 

Morning Sky

C 35-3

Hessel Michigan






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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Can’t think of anything else unless you somehow plumbed a scupper to the heat 
exchanger.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
FWC A4 that so far does not leak coolant

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 12:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

Just a wild guess:
Someone spilled coolant at one point that is trapped.  Enough rain water gets 
in the bilge to reach the coolant and some of it ends up in the sump.
Joel

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hey everyone,
Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to 
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.

Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  This 
ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.

I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and I've 
looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, the level 
of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for months.

If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going 
down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't 
spun since October.

The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.  A 
constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what the 
weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with pink 
antifreeze, so it's not that.
Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.


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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Just a wild guess:
Someone spilled coolant at one point that is trapped.  Enough rain water
gets in the bilge to reach the coolant and some of it ends up in the sump.
Joel

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out
> to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la
> vie.
>
> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
> This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>
> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and
> I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also,
> the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for
> months.
>
> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be
> going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump
> hasn't spun since October.
>
> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me
> too.  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no
> matter what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is
> winterized with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>
> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit table?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Thanks for the link.   Some interesting stuff.

How's the snow?

Joel

On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hmmm, interesting.
>
> <
> http://www.chinamarinewholesale.com/disassembled-boat-oval-table-with-table-pedestal-and-base-plate-stowable-fixed-height_p466.html
> >
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Repeating a post from a few months back.. I have used a boomkicker on the
J-80 I raced on - have Garhauer on Penniless. No comparison.

 

And. having some experience with a 27, I would think the 30-1's boom is
somewhat heavier. The sticks on a 30-1 are very robust. I would go for
lighter springs.

 

Gary

30-1 

Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 11:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

 

Chuck,

 

Plus 2 for Garhauer. I have a Garhauer vang on each of my boats. One is over
20 years old, the other 13. Strong. Custom fit to the boat. And really great
customer service from Guido and Mark. You won't find a better value or
anything that works better. I commend your decision to do away with the
"Damned thang", which I always found to be a general PITA .

 

Neil,

 

You are correct that the Boomkicker is less expensive. The K1500 that Chuck
would need would be around $300. The Garhauer just under $500. He would
still need his soft vang. Installation could be pretty straightforward,
unless the existing mast and boom tangs for the soft vang interfere with the
mounting of the hardware for the Boomkicker.

 

That said, my reservation about the Boomkicker is that I have seen, on 5 or
6 occasions over the years, the top of the Boomkicker rod come unpinned from
its mounting. When that happens, the boom ends up in the cockpit when you
drop the sails. That's probably a result of inattention or poor maintenance
on the part of the boat owner, I admit, and certainly the owner of a classic
C will pay better attention to his boat than the average owner. But still.

 

Peter,

 

I agree with Bill's suggestion that you contact Garhauer for new springs if
you think your vang has too much lift in it - though I suspect the weight of
a boom and sails for a 30-1 isn't all that much heavier than those on a 27.
I suspect you will find it is pretty inexpensive and relatively easy to make
the change.

 

A few years ago I had to put a new mast on my 25 (long story about an
inattentive skipper). When I called Garhauer about the installation of the
vang on the new mast, Guido asked me what model vang I had and what profile
Kenyon mast I was installing. He sent me a lower mounting bracket for the
new mast and the cost was less than $50. I mentioned that I had some slop in
the upper mounting , where the tang on the boom was mounted into the top of
the rigid vang, that was probably due to the fact that I had the original
roller furling boom on the boat. He sent me a new set of spacers to correct
the problem at no charge. As I said, great customer service.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Neil Gallagher  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

 

If all you want to do is get rid of the topping lift, you might consider
just adding a Boomkicker, which only keeps the boom from falling down.  Then
you could keep your manual vang, would cost quite a bit less.  I'm happy
with that arrangement, though I always put my main halyard on the end of the
boom once the main is down in case someone decides to swing on the boom or
something like that.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/28/2016 12:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:

Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I
have as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't
want hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.

 

There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but
appear the same.  Thoughts?

 

 

 




Chuck Saur 

Morning Sky

C 35-3

Hessel Michigan





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Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.

Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.

I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and
I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also,
the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for
months.

If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going
down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't
spun since October.

The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.
A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what
the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with
pink antifreeze, so it's not that.

Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
___

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's
winterized and up on stands.

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out
> to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la
> vie.
>
> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
> This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>
> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and
> I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also,
> the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for
> months.
>
> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be
> going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump
> hasn't spun since October.
>
> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me
> too.  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no
> matter what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is
> winterized with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>
> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Perhaps coolant was spilled elsewhere and gets washed down by rain?  Not to 
sound too trivial but maybe check where spare coolant is stored on boat and see 
if it has been leaking from the bottle …

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's 
winterized and up on stands.

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle 
> wrote:
Hey everyone,
Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to 
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.

Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  This 
ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.

I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and I've 
looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, the level 
of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for months.

If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going 
down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't 
spun since October.

The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.  A 
constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what the 
weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with pink 
antifreeze, so it's not that.
Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.


___

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Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Evan,

I'm answering your questions generally since I don't own a 26 Encounter.

First, how old is you current 145?  A blown out headsail can contribute
significantly to the amount of heel.

Second, when you race do you plan to have "rail meat"?  Even just one or
two people can significantly improve heel and pointing ability.

Third, have you looked at the local PHRF handicaps?  Most areas give extra
points for furlers but take away for larger sails.  You want to find the
balance.

Forth, have you talked to a sail loft?  Local is preferred.  A local loft
can give tremendously valuable guidance on optimal sail size, PHRF
handicaps, and a good balance between having a new sail made or an old one
re-cut.  When I installed a furler on my McGregor 26C, it was going to cost
me ~$600 IIRC to have my old sail re-cut or $1200 for a new sail.   $600
for an old blown out 155 to be re-cut seemed too high.

Hope that gives you some things to consider.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 29, 2016 4:26 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> This one is for the (I think) two of you who race their Encounter.
>
> We've had Wind Affair several years, but used her solely for cruising.
> During that time, we've learned how to handle her tenderness but have
> always been over powered with a 145 up front, even with a reefed main.
>
> I've been talked into do some beer can races with her this season and
> would like to know what headsail size works for you best all around.
>
> I'd rather only get one sail converted for my furler.
>
> So what do you use?
>
>
>
> Evan
>
> Wind Affair
>
> C 26 Encounter
>
> Indianapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hah!  Thanks for the reply.  But I have the original gas motor, so no
diesel on board.  It's definitely engine coolant - has the unmistakable
smell.

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 6:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This might be out on a limb but on the topic of "How do you know it is
> coolant", what color is your diesel?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I drilled and tapped and used Tef-Gel to prevent corrosion. I will tell you in 
10 year show bad it was to remove them.

 

I was told by numerous sources that if you want pop rivets, you need to use the 
stainless steel ones. They are more difficult to find and even more difficult 
to use (you need a decent river gun)m but they might be an option.

 

Marek

C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 17:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

 

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bagged out is shockingly hard to determine as a cruiser, especially when
not on a beat.  The crispness is not a particularly good indicator.  I have
a furling headsail which works pretty well up to 35 or 40° apparent wind.
Higher than that and it start getting soft on the leading edge.  Sorta fine
for cruisers.  Not even competitive against racers.

The handicap break points are why common sizes for racing sails are 110 and
135.

If I were you, trying to reduce tenderness for a bare minimum expense
(notice I didn't use the term investment), then I would convert the 110
that you already have to a 110 furler.  For a lighthanded boat you'll be
amazed at how much easier it is to quickly tack.

Double check me on the race rules, there's a caveat regarding a furler.
Something about being stuck with the sail you chose at the start.

Josh
On Jan 29, 2016 6:53 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks Josh. Ill try to run through all your points...
>
> 1.   Older than dirt, but not bagged out and fairly (given it's age)
> crisp. Its just a LOT of sail up there.
>
> 2.   1, maybe 2 bodies available as meat. More than likely, just 1.
>
> 3.   Talked to our PHRF guy (he'll actually be my trimmer...I'm his
> Wed night J24 trimmer) and I get 6 for furled, then 0 for a 145, 3 for
> 111-135, or 6 for a 100-110
>
> 4.   No loft locally. I have decent 110 and 135 that could be
> converted. I had my 145 converted for a reasonable price. If I were taking
> this seriously, I'd look toward new. As it is, though, she'll be for sale
> by the end of the year as we now own a Pearson 424 on which we'll cruise
> full time starting late 2017. I just want to see what she'll do against
> the non-Js at our club. ;-)
>
>
>
> Thanks for your input. It does incite some thought!
>
>
>
> Evan
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Friday, January 29, 2016 6:17 PM
> *To: *C List 
> *Cc: *Josh Muckley 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question
>
>
>
> Evan,
>
> I'm answering your questions generally since I don't own a 26 Encounter.
>
> First, how old is you current 145?  A blown out headsail can contribute
> significantly to the amount of heel.
>
> Second, when you race do you plan to have "rail meat"?  Even just one or
> two people can significantly improve heel and pointing ability.
>
> Third, have you looked at the local PHRF handicaps?  Most areas give extra
> points for furlers but take away for larger sails.  You want to find the
> balance.
>
> Forth, have you talked to a sail loft?  Local is preferred.  A local loft
> can give tremendously valuable guidance on optimal sail size, PHRF
> handicaps, and a good balance between having a new sail made or an old one
> re-cut.  When I installed a furler on my McGregor 26C, it was going to cost
> me ~$600 IIRC to have my old sail re-cut or $1200 for a new sail.   $600
> for an old blown out 155 to be re-cut seemed too high.
>
> Hope that gives you some things to consider.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jan 29, 2016 4:26 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> This one is for the (I think) two of you who race their Encounter.
>
> We've had Wind Affair several years, but used her solely for cruising.
> During that time, we've learned how to handle her tenderness but have
> always been over powered with a 145 up front, even with a reefed main.
>
> I've been talked into do some beer can races with her this season and
> would like to know what headsail size works for you best all around.
>
> I'd rather only get one sail converted for my furler.
>
> So what do you use?
>
>
>
> Evan
>
> Wind Affair
>
> C 26 Encounter
>
> Indianapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Agreed, drill & tap, and use TefGel or something like it as an anti-seize.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 29, 2016, at 4:28 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Eric,
>   I would be concerned that aluminum pop rivets wouldn't be strong enough.  
> They may be.  I drilled and tapped for stainless, used antiseize.  Have 
> removed one at a time yearly since just to check.  All good.  
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Evening Star
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 Eric Frank via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
> recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
> experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil 
> to get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.
> 
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

I have a similar problem.every year / winter I loose engine coolant into 
the 'after bilge'.   All hoses replaced.  Still happens.  Haven't found the 
source of the leak yet.Any recommendations for coolant dyes?  Probably less 
than a quart, but never a drop during the sailing season. Spencer Johnson1984 
Landfall 38 'Alegria' =165Racine, WI ... in the summerMount Prospect .. in the 
winter

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Eric,
  I would be concerned that aluminum pop rivets wouldn't be strong enough.  
They may be.  I drilled and tapped for stainless, used antiseize.  Have removed 
one at a time yearly since just to check.  All good.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail





On Friday, January 29, 2016 Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 


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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

This might be out on a limb but on the topic of "How do you know it is
coolant", what color is your diesel?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like others have said, either stainless rivets or drill and tap and coat
threads with Tef Gel.  If you don't have a Big Daddy rivet tool, you're
left with drill and tap.  A home type rivet tool can handle aluminum rivets
but will struggle with 1/4 inch SS rivets.  If it doesn't complete the
pull, you'll have to drill it out and try it again.

http://www.amazon.com/Marson-39010-BIG-DADDY-Riveter/dp/B000HAWKTM

Believe me, I've done enough installs to know.

Dennis C.
On Jan 29, 2016 3:18 PM, "Eric Frank via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you
> guys recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In
> my experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a
> devil to get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be
> drilled out.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh. Ill try to run through all your points...
1. Older than dirt, but not bagged out and fairly (given it's age) crisp. Its 
just a LOT of sail up there.
2. 1, maybe 2 bodies available as meat. More than likely, just 1.
3. Talked to our PHRF guy (he'll actually be my trimmer...I'm his Wed night J24 
trimmer) and I get 6 for furled, then 0 for a 145, 3 for 111-135, or 6 for a 
100-110
4. No loft locally. I have decent 110 and 135 that could be converted. I had my 
145 converted for a reasonable price. If I were taking this seriously, I'd look 
toward new. As it is, though, she'll be for sale by the end of the year as we 
now own a Pearson 424 on which we'll cruise full time starting late 2017. I 
just want to see what she'll do against the non-Js at our club. ;-)

Thanks for your input. It does incite some thought!

Evan


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 6:17 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

Evan,
I'm answering your questions generally since I don't own a 26 Encounter.
First, how old is you current 145?  A blown out headsail can contribute 
significantly to the amount of heel.
Second, when you race do you plan to have "rail meat"?  Even just one or two 
people can significantly improve heel and pointing ability.
Third, have you looked at the local PHRF handicaps?  Most areas give extra 
points for furlers but take away for larger sails.  You want to find the 
balance. 
Forth, have you talked to a sail loft?  Local is preferred.  A local loft can 
give tremendously valuable guidance on optimal sail size, PHRF handicaps, and a 
good balance between having a new sail made or an old one re-cut.  When I 
installed a furler on my McGregor 26C, it was going to cost me ~$600 IIRC to 
have my old sail re-cut or $1200 for a new sail.   $600 for an old blown out 
155 to be re-cut seemed too high.
Hope that gives you some things to consider. 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Jan 29, 2016 4:26 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List"  
wrote:
This one is for the (I think) two of you who race their Encounter.
We've had Wind Affair several years, but used her solely for cruising. During 
that time, we've learned how to handle her tenderness but have always been over 
powered with a 145 up front, even with a reefed main.
I've been talked into do some beer can races with her this season and would 
like to know what headsail size works for you best all around.
I'd rather only get one sail converted for my furler.
So what do you use?
 
Evan
Wind Affair
C 26 Encounter
Indianapolis 
 
 
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

My A4 is fresh water cooled . If you have Anti Freeze in your motor . I am 
guessing that it is a closed system . You can pressure test your engine. There 
should be a heat exchanger on the engine . There is a sump under your mast step 
on the 30 - 1 also . The antifreeze may be coming from there from a previous 
spill 

Joseph Bognar 
1979 C 30 MK 1 
In Luff Again 11

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Jan 29, 2016, at 1:59 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe and Joel - thank you guys.  Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I 
> didn't see your responses until now.  I know it's engine coolant because as 
> Joe said - "nothing else on the boat looks like it".  Joel, I have a feeling 
> you're right about the source.  I think there was coolant in the aft part of 
> my bilge - either it was spilled or the previous owner intentionally put it 
> down there, and when it rains hard it's being pushed into the sump.  If this 
> is the case, I'm just surprised that it's retaining it's brilliant 
> fluorescent green color after being watered diluted so much.  It's very 
> green.  Looks the same as what's in the reservoir.
> 
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>> Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that 
>> people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm 
>> wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of my 
>> bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being 
>> mixed with some rainwater and ending up down there.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>>> I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's 
>>> winterized and up on stands.
>>> 
 On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
 Hey everyone, 
 
 Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out 
 to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la 
 vie.
 
 Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  
 This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC. 
 
 I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and 
 I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, 
 the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for 
 months.  
 
 If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be 
 going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump 
 hasn't spun since October.
 
 The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too. 
  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter 
 what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized 
 with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
 
 Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List transom ladder

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Give Doug Guierella a call at Klacko Stainless . He can make you a custom 
ladder . 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Jan 29, 2016, at 10:28 PM, John McKay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Enterprise, my 33 MK II did not have a boarding ladder when I purchased her.
> 
> I am looking for one that folds up. Because of the slope of the transom, it 
> need a bend in it.  I am not having any luck finding one.
> 
> Does anyone know of a good source. Garelick has been suggested but I don't 
> see anything on their site.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> John on Enterprise
> Komoka
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Stus-List transom ladder

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 Enterprise, my 33 MK II did not have a boarding ladder when I purchased her.
I am looking for one that folds up. Because of the slope of the transom, it 
need a bend in it.  I am not having any luck finding one.
Does anyone know of a good source. Garelick has been suggested but I don't see 
anything on their site.
Thanks in advance
John on EnterpriseKomoka___

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of you who responded so quickly about my question of what 
fasteners to use to attach my new boom vang to the mast and boom.  Clearly the 
consensus is to use SS screws with TefGel, not pop rivets.  Just what I needed 
to know.  Thanks!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List transom ladder

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ladders.html

Dennis C.
On Jan 29, 2016 8:38 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Give Doug Guierella a call at Klacko Stainless . He can make you a custom
> ladder .
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
> On Jan 29, 2016, at 10:28 PM, John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Enterprise, my 33 MK II did not have a boarding ladder when I purchased
> her.
>
> I am looking for one that folds up. Because of the slope of the transom,
> it need a bend in it.  I am not having any luck finding one.
>
> Does anyone know of a good source. Garelick has been suggested but I don't
> see anything on their site.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John on Enterprise
> Komoka
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

Wow. I've had just enough alcohol to not take that as condescending.

Thanks for the input on the 110.




From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 8:02 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

Bagged out is shockingly hard to determine as a cruiser, especially when not on 
a beat.  The crispness is not a particularly good indicator.  I have a furling 
headsail which works pretty well up to 35 or 40° apparent wind.  Higher than 
that and it start getting soft on the leading edge.  Sorta fine for cruisers.  
Not even competitive against racers.
The handicap break points are why common sizes for racing sails are 110 and 135.
If I were you, trying to reduce tenderness for a bare minimum expense (notice I 
didn't use the term investment), then I would convert the 110 that you already 
have to a 110 furler.  For a lighthanded boat you'll be amazed at how much 
easier it is to quickly tack.
Double check me on the race rules, there's a caveat regarding a furler.  
Something about being stuck with the sail you chose at the start.
Josh 
On Jan 29, 2016 6:53 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Thanks Josh. Ill try to run through all your points...
1.   Older than dirt, but not bagged out and fairly (given it's age) crisp. 
Its just a LOT of sail up there.
2.   1, maybe 2 bodies available as meat. More than likely, just 1.
3.   Talked to our PHRF guy (he'll actually be my trimmer...I'm his Wed 
night J24 trimmer) and I get 6 for furled, then 0 for a 145, 3 for 111-135, or 
6 for a 100-110
4.   No loft locally. I have decent 110 and 135 that could be converted. I 
had my 145 converted for a reasonable price. If I were taking this seriously, 
I'd look toward new. As it is, though, she'll be for sale by the end of the 
year as we now own a Pearson 424 on which we'll cruise full time starting late 
2017. I just want to see what she'll do against the non-Js at our club. ;-)
 
Thanks for your input. It does incite some thought!
 
Evan
 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 6:17 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question
 
Evan,
I'm answering your questions generally since I don't own a 26 Encounter.
First, how old is you current 145?  A blown out headsail can contribute 
significantly to the amount of heel.
Second, when you race do you plan to have "rail meat"?  Even just one or two 
people can significantly improve heel and pointing ability.
Third, have you looked at the local PHRF handicaps?  Most areas give extra 
points for furlers but take away for larger sails.  You want to find the 
balance. 
Forth, have you talked to a sail loft?  Local is preferred.  A local loft can 
give tremendously valuable guidance on optimal sail size, PHRF handicaps, and a 
good balance between having a new sail made or an old one re-cut.  When I 
installed a furler on my McGregor 26C, it was going to cost me ~$600 IIRC to 
have my old sail re-cut or $1200 for a new sail.   $600 for an old blown out 
155 to be re-cut seemed too high.
Hope that gives you some things to consider. 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Jan 29, 2016 4:26 PM, "Evan Morgan via CnC-List"  
wrote:
This one is for the (I think) two of you who race their Encounter.
We've had Wind Affair several years, but used her solely for cruising. During 
that time, we've learned how to handle her tenderness but have always been over 
powered with a 145 up front, even with a reefed main.
I've been talked into do some beer can races with her this season and would 
like to know what headsail size works for you best all around.
I'd rather only get one sail converted for my furler.
So what do you use?
 
Evan
Wind Affair
C 26 Encounter
Indianapolis 
 
 
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that
people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm
wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of
my bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being
mixed with some rainwater and ending up down there.

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's
> winterized and up on stands.
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone,
>>
>> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out
>> to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la
>> vie.
>>
>> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
>> This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>>
>> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4
>> and I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.
>> Also, the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant
>> for months.
>>
>> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be
>> going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump
>> hasn't spun since October.
>>
>> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me
>> too.  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no
>> matter what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is
>> winterized with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>>
>> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Joe and Joel - thank you guys.  Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I
didn't see your responses until now.  I know it's engine coolant because as
Joe said - "nothing else on the boat looks like it".  Joel, I have a
feeling you're right about the source.  I think there was coolant in the
aft part of my bilge - either it was spilled or the previous owner
intentionally put it down there, and when it rains hard it's being pushed
into the sump.  If this is the case, I'm just surprised that it's retaining
it's brilliant fluorescent green color after being watered diluted so
much.  It's very green.  Looks the same as what's in the reservoir.

On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that
> people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm
> wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of
> my bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being
> mixed with some rainwater and ending up down there.
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>
>> I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's
>> winterized and up on stands.
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey everyone,
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out
>>> to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la
>>> vie.
>>>
>>> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
>>> This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>>>
>>> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4
>>> and I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.
>>> Also, the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant
>>> for months.
>>>
>>> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be
>>> going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump
>>> hasn't spun since October.
>>>
>>> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me
>>> too.  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no
>>> matter what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is
>>> winterized with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My engine coolant is fluorescent green. Nothing else on the boat looks like it, 
so I assume that is how. 
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2016 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

how do you know it's engine coolant?
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went 
> out to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la 
> vie.
>
> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  
> This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>
> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 
> and I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  
> Also, the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant 
> for months.
>
> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be 
> going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water 
> pump hasn't spun since October.
>
> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.
> A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter 
> what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is 
> winterized with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>
> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

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___

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

how do you know it's engine coolant?
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to
> observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.
>
> Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  This
> ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC.
>
> I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and
> I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, the
> level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for months.
>
> If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going
> down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't
> spun since October.
>
> The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.
> A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what
> the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with
> pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
>
> Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I generally leave RV or plumbing antifreeze in the bilge, but I'm  in frozen 
Ottawa.

-Original Message-
From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎29 2:00 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Ryan Doyle" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

Joe and Joel - thank you guys.  Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I didn't 
see your responses until now.  I know it's engine coolant because as Joe said - 
"nothing else on the boat looks like it".  Joel, I have a feeling you're right 
about the source.  I think there was coolant in the aft part of my bilge - 
either it was spilled or the previous owner intentionally put it down there, 
and when it rains hard it's being pushed into the sump.  If this is the case, 
I'm just surprised that it's retaining it's brilliant fluorescent green color 
after being watered diluted so much.  It's very green.  Looks the same as 
what's in the reservoir.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that 
people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm 
wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of my 
bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being mixed 
with some rainwater and ending up down there.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's 
winterized and up on stands.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

Hey everyone, 


Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to 
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.

Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  This 
ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC. 


I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and I've 
looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, the level 
of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for months.  

If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going 
down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't 
spun since October.

The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.  A 
constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what the 
weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with pink 
antifreeze, so it's not that.


Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.___

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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

A long time ago, while living in Boston I took a C to Martha's Vineyard 
from Marblehead and back around the Cape over two weeks.  It was fine but 
camping experience is a must.

Leslie.
Phoenix C 1983

On Tue, 1/26/16, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Mark McMenamy" 
 Date: Tuesday, January 26, 2016, 10:50 AM
 
 
 Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine
 would play out.  During our sailing lessons we've
 always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll
 be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more
 benign inlets here in FL, but at times it
  for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with
 and easterly wind.
 
 
 
 I was curious if people ever take these on longer
 trips?  I was thinking of going down to the keys but
 I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just
 my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.
  It's a little over 100 nm to get down there.
 
 
 
 Thanks again for the info.
 
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mark McMenamy
 "Icicle" C 25
 Fort Pierce FL
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 #yiv8042994849
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 #yiv8042994849 
 Mark, 
 I can just say that it happens on
 occasion and it is totally driven by the sea state and wind
 direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
 using a
  100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the
 nose.  When I need to motor due to time constraints (or
 seasick crew) heading directly into the wind and waves keeps
 the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea
 which rolls the boat
  to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation
 sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a
 bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the
 crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve
 learned to pick and choose my
  days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting
 longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in
 one piece. 
 Chuck 
    
 Chuck Gilchrest 
 Half Magic
  
 1975 25 Mk 1 
 S/V Orion 
 1983 35 Landfall 
 Padanaram, MA 
    
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Mark McMenamy 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info 
 
 
    
 
 Thanks Chuck.  Mine
 originally had a Vire 7 as well. 
 
 
    
 
 
 I have a 20" outboard
 as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine
 cavitating? 
 
 
    
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 
 Mark McMenamy  
 
 "Icicle" C
 25 
 
 
 Fort Pierce FL 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
 
 wrote: 
 
 
 
 Mark, 
 I wish I had a viable solution,
 but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate inside the
 transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and
 it is epoxy
  bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor
 mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the
 loads.   I would say that the spacing of the motor mount
 bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is
 easily 18” wide and 13” high. 
   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several
 years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused
 by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I
 had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the
 wind.  Whenever the prop would
  come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom
 would flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And
 yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but 

Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks John.  I had no idea that was a fairly common practice.  That must be 
what's happening.  There's a section of the bilge forward of the motor and aft 
of the opening in the cockpit sole that I just can't see into.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2016, at 14:34, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I generally leave RV or plumbing antifreeze in the bilge, but I'm  in frozen 
> Ottawa.
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎29 2:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant
> 
> Joe and Joel - thank you guys.  Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I 
> didn't see your responses until now.  I know it's engine coolant because as 
> Joe said - "nothing else on the boat looks like it".  Joel, I have a feeling 
> you're right about the source.  I think there was coolant in the aft part of 
> my bilge - either it was spilled or the previous owner intentionally put it 
> down there, and when it rains hard it's being pushed into the sump.  If this 
> is the case, I'm just surprised that it's retaining it's brilliant 
> fluorescent green color after being watered diluted so much.  It's very 
> green.  Looks the same as what's in the reservoir.
> 
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>> Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that 
>> people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm 
>> wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of my 
>> bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being 
>> mixed with some rainwater and ending up down there.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>>> I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's 
>>> winterized and up on stands.
>>> 
 On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
 Hey everyone, 
 
 Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out 
 to observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la 
 vie.
 
 Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  
 This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC. 
 
 I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and 
 I've looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, 
 the level of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for 
 months.  
 
 If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be 
 going down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump 
 hasn't spun since October.
 
 The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too. 
  A constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter 
 what the weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized 
 with pink antifreeze, so it's not that.
 
 Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
 
 
>>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Stus-List C 26 Encounter sail question

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

This one is for the (I think) two of you who race their Encounter.
We've had Wind Affair several years, but used her solely for cruising. During 
that time, we've learned how to handle her tenderness but have always been over 
powered with a 145 up front, even with a reefed main.
I've been talked into do some beer can races with her this season and would 
like to know what headsail size works for you best all around.
I'd rather only get one sail converted for my furler.
So what do you use?

Evan
Wind Affair
C 26 Encounter
Indianapolis 





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Re: Stus-List Cockpit table?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Snow is great!  More on the way. Been at Copper Mountain all week. Moving to 
Vail for next week. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2016, at 10:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the link.   Some interesting stuff.
> 
> How's the snow?
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hmmm, interesting.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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